Codfanglers

for PORSCHE BOXSTER 986 987 CONVERTIBLE TOP BALL PIN PUSH ROD END X 1 UK | eBay

These are designed to be the weakest link and break if something catches. Don't fit the metal ones.

These may (or may not) be of better quality

2 x GENUINE OEM Porsche Boxster/S - 986 987 Convertible Roof Pushrod Plastic Ball Joint : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Whoever sells Mann filters for the best price. Last time I bought some they were just over £10 each from Carparts4less (Eurocarpart) so bought three to get free delivery. They arrive in a Eurocarparts van next day.

41 minutes ago, hopz121 said:

Not at all! 

Look after the pennies and the pounds will look after themselves! Not minted by any means just a massive petrol head!

starting to think it’s a silly idea owning one as a daily to be honest! 

You're looking at an 18 year old car with 90k miles under its belt, way past its first flourish of youth with legendary engine issues that in most cases will be uneconomic to repair in a 987.1 Boxster if it needs a rebuild. It's the risk we take for our passion to own a car that's so great to drive. I'd say it depends on your expectations, if you want everything perfect, are prepared to spanner it yourself to make it affordable etc. 

Economically, it would probably make more sense to enjoy your 718 to the max and take the hit on its value. But there is a certain joy in owning an old 987.1 that you don't have to worry about it living outside on the drive, how much mileage you put on it, where you park it, not having your leg lifted on "specialist" servicing to collect a stamp to preserve its value etc.  

3 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Anything can go pop ..luck of the draw .. most people buy cars with several owners, you do not have a skooby how they have been driven previously, regardless of service history?!

Too true, and at 18 years old/90k it will have had a life. But if the engine does let go, provided you haven't paid too much, with a bit of effort and time, you can strip the car for parts, sell the bits on eBay and get much of its value back.

1 hour ago, bally4563 said:

Fair point because you are in the know camp

I'd expect someone in the 718 GTS camp to be looking and thinking 987.1 cars are cheap enough to drive every day and not worry too much if the engine goes pop.

14 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Not really we want to keep these prices buoyant, ok for buying if you are in the know, however resale to a market that wants one of these , keep them all inflated?

Understand the sentiment but I don't think my comments will scew the uk used car market.

Not worth £10k of my money.

7 hours ago, hopz121 said:

Mot History is ok, only failed once for incorrect colour indicator bulbs but otherwise its a pass with advisories or without. 

Nothing regarding brake fluid I believe that's it. 

Lots of advisories over the years for tyres, bushes, brakes etc.

Car is £10k it has 90,000 miles on the clock and the last MOT is clean.

 

 

 

The service history wouldn't put me off to be honest. PO only owning the car for three months would set alarm bells ringing though. You won't know unless you go and assess it yourself or pay for a pre-sale inspection report from a specialist (which could turn out to be money well spent).

I bought my car without any service history but knowing that a lot of common age related jobs had recently been sorted and was fortunate to find a good one at a very favourable price. Never had any major problems.

£10k for a 90k mile 987.1 is too much to pay IMHO

I've had a pair of these with Textar pads on the front for the last 4000 miles/18 months. No problems, Silver anodised coating with top hats and inside the cooling fins still showing no signs of corrosion, inside and outside faces of the discs still shiny and perfect. These are handed, drilled and less than £60 a pair delivered. Discs is discs. 

For Porsche Cayman 987 2.7 Comline 5 Stud Front Vented Coated Brake Discs | eBay

A picture wearing that space saver and grubby seats will no doubt get some buyer's juices running that there is quick easy money to be made.

How much did they pay for it? Ad says to me they bought it cheap and it turned out to be a total lemon, stood for years (no doubt because there is something seriously wrong with the engine) and uneconomic to repair. Not worth them ploughing any more money in, flip it quick to get out as soon as possible and hope to break even without incurring another set of auction fees.

Don't think even Wheeler Dealers would bodge that one up with an oil change and vinyl stripes.

I had my 2 year-old S3 rear bumper repaired after being rear-ended on a roundabout. No bits hanging off and only looked minor. I went through Audi claims handling type of arrangement through the main dealer.

New OEM everything including bumper cover and trims, new rear inner strengthener, new reversing sensors, everything else it needed, ceramic coating, loan car was a convertible A5 for seven days. No personal injury claim.

Having done car bodywork in the past I'm very picky. The job was as good as factory finish, metallic blue and a perfect colour match. Honestly can't tell it ever happened.

The price was £2900 for the repair and another £1900 for car hire, all paid for by the 'at fault' party's insurance.

You could argue that it's putting up the price of insurance for everyone, and even though I wasn't at fault and got my excess back, my premium went up by £30 the following year 'because I'm more likely to claim in future'. I could have let the bloke who ran into me pay £200 for a local 'independent' to repair and repaint the cover, accepted a few filler sanding marks, a bit of orange peel and overspray, a slightly different colour under certain lights and a repair and a finish that doesn't last. But I was entitled to have my car repaired properly by his insurance company - the party 'at fault'. Do your research and don't be fobbed off and accept a second rate job from your insurance company's own bodyshop partner that they could steer you towards.

2 hours ago, thestig84 said:

I don't want them touching my car but am keen on the little extras like magazine, oil, etc. Also the classic card with vin number on it in little box will look good put alongside all my service history too.

I thought you still had to pay for a service to get a 'free' litre of oil.

Could anyone ever be bothered with the hassle of arranging a free car wash under this scheme.

I don't know what these seals look like but would have thought taking off the old ones then trying to refit would risk making them a whole lot worse. Have you looked if anything from suppliers like Aldridge or Woolies trimmers could do the job?

The lyrical description and optimistic price tag suggests he could be a prestige car dealer. 

Find another in this condition...

13 minutes ago, Davey P said:

Another reason for an instant ban - I will contact Admin on here and see what they say... 

On a separate note, how's my old car running mate?

I'm a driver, not a polisher.

Nightmare - I've had to repair the brakes, the aircon, the water pump, idler pulleys, belt, the hood, the cup holders, the sun visor, the door speakers, servicing - the list is endless. I must have spent thick end of £1000 quid in servicing and repairs over the last two years getting it top notch.

Another £500 including the winter wheels. The spending is endless. 

As far as running is concerned, idler pulleys have turned the hissy engine as quiet as a mouse, never let me down, never thrown any fault codes. 

Would you consider splitting the running costs with me as compensation? 😁

5 hours ago, Davey P said:

BAN HIM!!! 

I know - please don't tell everyone I leave it outside all year round and just use it like a car when I have somewhere I need to go. What effect will all this abuse have on the resale value! 

I don't think it's had a wash since August either. 😱

The top of the engine / cover being inside the cabin makes quite a difference in the summer and it can get hot in there. I replaced the condensers, drier and regas to get my aircon working. £110 well spent, but I do use my car as a daily driver and don't always want the roof down.

I found the original halogens useless (dangerous) and fitted HIS4U 35watt kit. White and much brighter but wish now I'd gone for the 55W kit. Passed the MOT no problems, aim is good and nobody has ever flashed me for dazzling them.

The two boxes for each bulb that come with the kit fit inside the headlamp pods but no room to uprate the main beams to similar.

Recommended upgrade.

50 minutes ago, McDonald said:

Wafting & burbling both remembered fondly forever. Never got the same pleasure until I bought an SL500.

 

I feel a gratuitous moody photo of us in the Stag could be in order. This one shows that Stags can be driven without overheating, without the engine blowing up and the bonnet isn't always open.

49 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Stag owner says TVR is worse engineered.

That will ruffle some feathers!

Controversial perhaps but I can only refer to my experience of the two.

The Stag has never let me down either, driven it many thousands of miles and I know which is the better drive and ownership experience. It wasn't the TVR.

I bought the Stag as an abandoned resto project for peanuts, and the only thing I've ever paid anyone to do is re-bore the block and spray the body with 2 pack. Great car to waft around countryside in soft compliant comfort with a far more tuneful V8 burble than the TVR ever produced. 

On 12/29/2022 at 12:27 AM, RBD914 v2 said:

This led to a TVR 350i convertible with the V8 Rover Vitesse engine, which was always getting me into trouble with the local Plod due to it's noisy exhaust. What a car though, a beast to drive and it never let me down.

I've owned various cars over the years including Dolly Sprint, TR7, Lancia coupe, Mk2 XR2 with Turbo Technics conversion plus a TVR 350i FHC for 5 years.

The idea of the TVR was a car that wouldn't rot, made from cheap parts and easy to maintain. I have to say, although my TVR never let me down, it was the worst engineered car I ever owned and it was never really that great to drive. Sold it 20 years ago and bought a Stag that I still own today.

Back to how I ended up buying a Porsche. My Audi S3 was coming up to 5 years old, I didn't like the new S3 and I was considering a TTS. Porches were never really on the radar for me but with kids off our hands and having a second car, a Base Cayman with a few extras comes in at a similar price to the TTS, and the Cayman suffers lower depreciation and a bit more special.

A lot of money to spend if I didn't like it and knowing little about Porsches, I bought a Boxster that I could easily sell on if I didn't gel with it. I went for a later 987.1 - Cheap, larger IMS bearing and unlikely to suffer bore score. Very slow compared to the S3 but love the way it feels and how engaging it is to drive. Decision made, New Cayman.

I visited the dealer, tried a Base 718 Cayman expecting similar power, turbo torque, the best of the S3 and Boxster all in one car but - no. Driving the 718 Cayman was less satisfying than the 987 Boxster and felt more like the S3.  Then there was availability. Loooong waiting list and no idea of a build date.

I ended refreshing the S3 with an uprated clutch plus stage 1 tune turning it into an absolute beast and keeping the Boxster because of it's driving dynamics and feel of the thing. 

I'll try the Cayman EV if Porsche ever get around to building and selling it.

If you have somewhere dry, have a decent array of tools, stands, trolley jacks, enjoy working on the car and don't mind laying on your back and skinning you knuckles, I'd say go for it. It's a gearbox and clutch, a nut and bolt job. Bear in mind all the other stuff, taking a break when it isn't going well, the issues you may face along the way, your levels of perseverance and how much extra a garage will want to be persuaded to dig you out the **** if gets beyond you. 

Only you know your abilities, confidence and level of ar'sed.

I wouldn't trust anyone but a specialist with a good reputation to replace either the RMS or IMS bearing.

I've worked on my own cars for years and changed several clutches and gearboxes over the years but paid a local specialist to change my S3 clutch last February.

On 12/6/2022 at 8:24 PM, Photogirl said:

Thanks - what do you think the life expectancy might be? 

+1 for the Meyle pump. Composite impeller and the pump felt like quality. 4 year/100000 mile warranty and the SIC/SIC seal is "supposed to be" better than OE 

£120 inc gasket, bolts and 2 day delivery from bmwmotormec

Do you have records that show what is in there already?

Mine has a receipt that show "red" antifreeze was used after the coolant pipes were changed, so that's what I used to re-fill after changing the water pump.

These are vented/drilled/handed and I've had them on my car with Textar pads for over a year. No issues.

£62 for a pair delivered.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194037919235?fits=Car+Make%3APorsche|Model%3ACayman&hash=item2d2d8fae03:g:yEIAAOSwurBgdw6s&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsEY4VXW%2BUN4kHnEOn4dVfQFmKBYcXylMiC7Emc8mbwSsLBqchOQpYNxHwyWymxoB2fXavokAEWJUTdYUfXx6oD8doglTjHOMyUH20bdAIy7yqjnwzwJUwNM%2FI%2BGegQuSDpjqDzWaAw%2ByuwM%2FS4dJ%2FM2RPktCtRj4ZhVKRUcUdige6mG6OiEAWu6URrWNV2KU9fbt3Knlt2jfwlyEWgEByPAz%2FcMahAqQrY8C2OHsQ2HP|tkp%3ABk9SR_yop9aOYQ

38 minutes ago, gazboxster said:

How should it drain off any excess water from the heater matrix?

no expert whatsoever ever, and don’t have the facilities to get it up and start taking things apart! 😂

Thanks

If you've been out in damp weather with the air-con running and fan on high, a lot of ice could have formed on the matrix. This will drain off naturally under the car as it de-frosts. It's designed with a drain to do that.

Air-con will clear your windows faster in cold weather because it takes the moisture out of the air before blowing it on the screen. Best to turn it off as soon as your screen is clear and the heater has taken over. This lets the matrix dry off with air passing through it and the screen hot enough not to steam up. If you don't, that moisture trapped in the matrix can make its way back up out of the ventilation system when you stop, and the inside of your windscreen can be wringing wet next time you get in the car.

Also a good idea to turn the air-con off a few miles from home to let it dry off summer and winter so as not to encourage Mold to set in and make it smell.