Codfanglers
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Posts posted by Codfanglers
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17 hours ago, Bike Loon said:
And in 12 month's time it should be cheap enough to call it sensibly priced.
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5 minutes ago, Izzy400 said:
I’m basing my model choice on the ones that have the reported least amount of problems, I believe the 3.2 isn’t a problem engine but the 3.4 is?
real world performance difference between a 3.2 and a 2.7 is probably negligible though I would have thought.If you are used to a NA MX5 I don't think a 2.7 would be much of an issue. The "advantage" of not having much torque is you have to use revs and enjoy more howl. I decided on a 2.7 because I'd have worried too much about bore score with the bigger engine.
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15 hours ago, gillbe said:
6 hours (!) to replace 2 rear exhaust clamps and drivers side of 3 x exhaust flange nuts, bolts and gasket... Even though 987.2 does not have the notorious press fit studs at the flanges, still a right pain to get the seized rusted lumps of deformed metal off.
Passenger side still to do.. for another day.
The exhaust flanges is a job I really need to do before winter as they look in a right state.
My late 2007 car has similar looking exhaust flanges to these with what looks like 2mm thick steel with curled around edges on both flanges. Are the studs still just pressed into these or welded at the back? I really don't want to hand this to someone to do to hammer the cr*p out of the studs and ruin the cats.
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55 minutes ago, Jonners said:
My aircon stopped working some time ago, I presumed it was the condensers so ordered some new ones and fitted, along with a new drier. Ordered a regas from ATS via Groupon, only to find there was a leak elsewhere!
It's just been in for a service, so I asked them to check where it could be leaking from. They found the leak, typically its on a bend.
Think I'll give the above a go, is this the correct Araldite:
Cheers!
There are all sorts of epoxy you could use and as long as it will encapsulate the pipe, stick to it to form a seal and won't break off as the pipe slightly expands/contracts as it warms and cools. Make sure the pipe is keyed and perfectly clean before applying. JB Marineweld 8272 has a reputation for strength and would be my choice to use.
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2 hours ago, JonSta said:
The Gan tuner has 3 modes - off (standard), eco - which definitely more economical than stock but still kicks a bit harder and dynamic which is very responsive but does like to guzzle the juice. I put it on eco when the fuel price went daft a couple of months ago and it's still there. I might go back though - it kicks noticeably harder around 4k and doesn't quit til the redline. Fuel is back down to almost reasonable so why not?
It's a bit of a faff changing. It doesn't hold both maps in it's memory so you need a decent internet connection. Just using the phone takes ages - on the drive within reach of the router it takes 4 or 5 minutes but the engine has to be running. Then you have to drive it for a while for it to learn the settings. Bit of a design error IMO.
12% power increase. You can't really argue with the before and after dyno graphs on Gan's website.
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5 hours ago, JonSta said:
Manufacturers leave a fair sized safety margin between how an engine will run and how they actually configure them - both in terms of timing and mixture. I can feel the difference between dynamic and eco and eco and off on the Gan tuner. Then again I did fit a more open exhaust at the same time.
The safety margin is more to do with forced induction engines then normally aspirated.
Manufacturers set engine management for all grades of fuel the car is likely to be presented with across the world, to work in all temperatures and altitudes. But they have knock sensors, temperature sensors and closed loop mixture feedback in the form of an oxygen sensor to "learn" what fuel is being used, local conditions and make the best of it over time, then dial the timing back if it detects detonation. True, a little safe margin will be built in but running lean, rich or too far advanced will all damage an engine long term and where else is there to go with the engine management to produce more power in a NA engine.
It has been said that Porsche "hobbled" the Boxster with a restrictive exhaust and that's probably true. The mechanicals will no doubt take a fair hike in power but you need to get air and fuel in then gases out in the most efficient manner with least friction losses within the engine to maximise the power an engine will produce. Tweaking the engine management can't really improve on any of that.
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1 hour ago, deanmr2 said:
I got my previous Porsche which was a 3.4 Cayman S remapped and although I tried to kid myself that it seemed a bit livelier I don’t think it made any noticeable difference so I would say in my experience don’t bother and spend your money on something else.
I think you need a turbo engined car for a remap to make any noticeable difference
^This. The way to get more power from engines is to get more air in. Modern engine management systems should already be doing their best to trim to the perfect mixture and advance the timing as much as is safe to do so with the fuel grade you put in, so a remap alone won't help much for a stock normally aspirated engine.
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42 minutes ago, Davey P said:
I thought the reason for Zunnsport grilles was because they look good..?
Have to say I prefer the look of black Polytrol treated original grilles and ductings against shiney silver condensers. Not a fan of the Zunsport look.
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I replaced the original condensers at 90k miles. They weren't visibly damagedto any serious extent, just corroded at the outside bottom corners where years of unseen damp muck had accumulated.
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The seals are a bit of an oddball size and nothing in any of the kits seemed anywhere near the right dimentions and thickness for the 987 condensers. I ended up buying from a Porsche specialist, they were £2 + vat each + £6 postage so still expensive (I did also buy some plastic tray nuts and screws at the same time though). I used food grade pure mineral oil on the seals as I was told not to use PAG.
I did also buy one of these.
You can find them cheaper but make sure the valve connections are included.
Provided you have a compressor (you could use a £15 tyre inflator), you can pressure test the system yourself, see if it holds pressure overnight, look for leaks and momentarily fire up the compressor to see if it is working. You can also then check and diagnose issues with the system at home once gassed.
Yes, I know compressed air isn't the best due to the moisture, but you should change the dryer anyway before you go for a re-gas.
You can gas the system yourself with one of these devices but the canisters cost more than the £38 ATS charge for a vac, then the correct weight of proper gas + oil.
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1 minute ago, ½cwt said:
Nope, doesn't work on a persistent sticky lifter. Believe me, I've tried!
Did a bottle of the Wynn's snake oil fix it?
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Fresh oil has all the additives and detergents the lubrication system needs. Carry out regular oil changes to keep flushing out the cr*p plus weekly Italian tuning to keep everything nice and free.
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kmspartsonline on eBay
MEYLE Poly V Ribbed Belt Deflection Guide Pulley 414 903 1110 FOR 911 Boxster Ca | eBay
All three have different part numbers and come with spacers and cover washers and assume the tensioner comes with the bolt/nut as it is slightly more espensive. I stipulated no alternative 'make' to be sent. If you watch and put them in your basket you should get and extra 5% off by next morning.
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I've just fitted two Meyle plastic type idler pulleys. They have German NSK bearings fitted and were just under £50 each delivered. They came with a 5 year warranty from the vendor.
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Have you got a UV torch? Leaking areas are usually a bit oily and the dye in the refrigerant/oil will glow green (but perhaps not if the system has been empty for many years). The condensers rot at the bottom due to years of accumulated dirt and moisture.
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Clean the area of damaged pipe down (provided it isn't totally crushed), key the surface, repair it with an Araldite poultice. Buy a Groupon coupon for £38 and take it to ATS. They will pressure test the system and tell you if it leaks. They'll then gas it up if ok or tell you it's leaking. (You can then claim a refund on the coupon if it fails).
It could need far more to repair it so be prepared for condensers at least (£80 a pair if you fit them yourself)
You should really change the drier if the system has been left empty for any period of time. They are less than £15, come with seals and are a 15 minute job to fit.
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5 hours ago, hopz121 said:
Thanks for the replies so far guys, the comments are echoing my thoughts on the car. My main concern is the price as it seems expensive in the current market which looks set to drop soon even lower so it could be a very expensive car then.
The main attraction to me is the colour and the spec and also the fact its up the road form my house.
The car will be daily driven and i expect to loose some money but don't really want to loose to much.
I am away at the end of the week and very busy so i may see if its around when i come back and go from there.
If ownership of this car (to you) is worth "losing" £3-4k when you drive it away from the dealer, then it is worth it.
Are you intending to park your 718 GTS in the garage to preserve it's value and drive this 987 instead? I think you'd need to be fairly creative with the man maths to make that worthwhile.
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My engine has always sounded a bit whiney and like the What We Do In The Shadows vampires hissing at one another on overrun.
After feeling the belt idler pulleys when doing the water pump the bearings felt a bit 'dry' but I didn't think they were that bad.
New serpentine belt and two idler pulleys fitted today. What a difference! The engine is now so quiet!
Unfortunately I can now hear the heat shield rattling on the exhaust.
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Love the colour. A dealer's opinion on whether it's desirable however would depend on if they were buying or selling.
Even with the spec, at £14k for an 17 year old car with middling mileage and the way prices are heading, it looks at least £3k overpriced to me.
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As I see it, discs are discs and the Brembo discs and pads I took off were rotten or like ploughed fields on the back, rusty on the hubs and in the vents etc and felt like rough wood to use.
I fitted Delphi drilled discs on the rear and Comline drilled/handed on the front. Both 'coated' and have retained their silver coating to the hubs, internals and have a nice smooth braked surface. Textar pads front and back and brakes feel great.
Total cost for all four corners discs and pads was a shade over £200 so could probably replace them at least twice over and some compared to fitting Brembo.
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They are plastic/composite pulleys, moulded over both ends of the bearing so replacement is not an option.
I know they all have different part numbers but are all the actual pulleys the same? They seem a fairly common size Possibly a generic item shared by others in the VAG group? Has anyone found suitable items that don't include the Porsche tax?
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I found the write-up thanks. I'll whistle the worst one off tomorrow, see how easy the bearing presses out and if I can do it without damaging the pulley. Nothing to lose really in doing that. Those SKF bearings can be had for £14 each delivered but I'll confirm the bearing dimensions when (if) it comes out.
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The Meyle water pump arrived today and it looks and feels a quality part. My belt tensioner pulley sounds and feels fine, but both the idler pulleys sound slightly rough and one has perceivable play. Replacement pulleys seem expensive. Can replacement bearings be pressed into the pulleys and if so, does anyone happen to have the bearing number(s).
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I decided on the Meyle HD pump, seem to be trusted brand in VW circles who report their pumps are of decent quality and come with 100,000 miles/4year warranty, gasket and bolts. Design 911 sell them so I take that as an endorsement. It will be seeing some revs and spirited use but no track days.
I'd have gone for the Pierberg but can't find anyone selling at a decent price that quote immediate dispatch so assume most will be making their way over from the continent.
Coolant ordered as well.
Car has always held spot on temp. Is it recommended to change the stat or leave alone?
What have YOU done to your 987 today
in 987
Posted
That's great info. Those look like similar thin flnges to mine. Are the studs welded at any point or just pressed in? I have a couple of old blow torches but have been looking at a MAPP gas one that I believe will give higher temperature. One with a flexible neck should really help get the heat where it is needed.
Did you get them into the orange zone and did they need much hammering or just knock out?