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Codfanglers

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Posts posted by Codfanglers

  1. You could ask your OPC who they use for bodywork. When someone ran into the back of my S3 I went through my Audi main dealer who put me in touch with a claims handling firm and it went to the local bodyshop Audi use (a very professional outfit). My car had the works, new cover, metal work behind, new trim, reversing sensors etc, even ceramic coating replaced. You couldn't tell it had ever been done and that is the standard of repair you are entitled to. Loan car was an A5 convertible that I had for five days. Total cost of the job was around £2700 for the repair and £2500 for the car hire. No doubt Audi received a bounty payment . The claims handling firm sorted out everything including recovering my excess and NCD 'unaffected'. It did put about £30 on my next year's premium though 'because I was more likely to make a claim in the future'.

     I wonder why car insurance is so expensive?  

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  2. 7 hours ago, daz05 said:

    It has been to the moon and back though. 

    And not a colour combo I would choose. But it is a 981, HPI clear, looks straight, shiney, refurbed wheels etc. and for sale with a dealer for less than £20k. What happened to "buy on condition not mileage" 

    WBAC price is £13570

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  3. 7 hours ago, daz05 said:

    I've been waiting for the mass drop to come but it's happening more slowly than I thought but values are down when you consider inflation. 

    You'll see the 987.2 advertised for under 20k not a clean 981 but it might come. Bargain when it does.

     

    Evans Halshaw have a 981 with sensible miles, I believe they use some fancy software to place their cars competitively and prices change weekly. £23.5k and has drifted down by £870 over the last month.

    But there is a 2013 Boxster on Cargurus with a car dealer, FSH, HPI clear for £19,989.

  4. It's for sale with a specialist dealer. No doubt he 'wants' north of £30k for it and won't let it go too cheaply, but eBay and auction prices are a good barometer on what people are actually willing to pay for cars. 

    I've been watching a 2014 Boxster on Cargurus with my ideal colour and spec with a prestigious dealer. It started out at £32k middle of last year, sold last week after seven price drops when the asking price reached £27k. Who knows at what price a deal was struck though.

  5. On 3/28/2023 at 10:56 AM, zagamuffin said:

    From a high during the winter prices seem to have tumbled into spring which is the opposite to what youd expect. 
    just priced a 718 im intrested in and retail is 37500, first offer from dealers 36k and wbac is 31k 😧

    have decided 718 is better option for me taxwise to import if i can get a good enough purchase price 

     

    With the typical £5k dealer premium, £31k would seem about right for anyone wanting to sell/trade in a 718.

    Clean, FSH early 781 cars can now be found advertised for under £30k and 981 cars for under £20k and as EXY predicts, normality is returning. The country is awash with Boxsters and Caymans for sale at over-inflated prices and I can see a lot of dealers getting burnt with stock they have paid too much for. 

  6. 1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

    Not sure why front and rear struts take £10 different longer, both two struts, both fit in the same way. 

    Maybe some ham fisted DIYer had rounded one of the nuts and the Porsche master technician had to be called to use the special Snap-on mole grips.

    Is this a typical example of a 'reassuringly expensive' Porsche specialist service bill?

    £100 to change the serpentine belt and £110 (+VAT!) to change four gas struts is daylight robbery but you wouldn't want any old back street mechanic not knowing the importance of torquing your engine cover screws and nuts to the correct settings. 

  7. 47 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

    I don't know, just as a 987.1 owner (without PDK) I realise this wouldn't apply to me :) 

    I think also I confused the Sport wheel on the .1 (round airbag) with the Sport Design, whatever that looks like.

    Chris - for the alcantara you can always get a recovering from Royal, though yes that adds to your price.

    I just looked at Chris' My ride under his avatar.😄

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  8. I think the advice is that if you want to sell it, put it up for sale, advertise it, name your price and see if anyone turns up to buy it. If you ask too much, it won't sell and you have lost the price of advertising. 

    If you want to sell it quickly, you could name your price on here (£10k perhaps), and hope someone is looking to buy, but don't expect 'dealer price' for it. 

    I wouldn't wait for two years expecting to get more money though, the bubble is slowly bursting. 

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  9. Cars are usually cheap for a reason and any 20 year-old car you don't know will be a gamble. Assess the owner as carefully as the car!
    At £3750 it's priced to sell, could be ok and a cheap car if it's easy to fix, but with 160,000 miles it's already had a good run. 

    Not one I'd want to hand over to an Indy straight after buying it to put right expecting it just to need a pump. His bill could easily grow to the point where you will have spent more than buying a 'more saleable' car with a lot less miles on the clock.

    Only you know how much you want that particular car. If you really want it, point out everything you see is wrong, how much you think it will cost to put right and offer him what you are willing to pay for it. 

    Bet he wants your money more than you want his car.

     

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  10. Advertise it on a free site if you want to test the water. I've used Pistonheads in the past (is it still free? I don't know).

    Loads of Porsches for sale at the moment and asking prices way too optimistic.  

    Look at eBay and auction sold prices for a real valuation and hope for an extra 10-15% on top for a private sale . 

  11. 1 hour ago, Riyazc said:

    Much appreciated ... I did wonder why the kit included all the other bits too but figure maybe it's I've of those things where you change it all in one go at you're doing the work.

    May as well change the thermostat and belt for the minimal extra cost whilst it is apart. Also spin the idler pulleys, alternator and aircon to see if they feel rough or have any play. 

    The kit should be acceptable quality from Design911 but the Meyle pump is branded quality and can be bought elsewhere for £120 including bolts, gasket and delivery against £157 from D911. The D911 kit also doesn't appear to inlude the thermostat housing from the picture.

    A 1/4" socket set and short 50mm wobble extension is all you need to access the 'difficult' pump bolt and use a torque wrench on it.   

    A nice satisfying Sunday morning job.

     

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  12. Great bargain, great spec and great looking car.

    From what I've read, those DFI engines are a bit prone to the oil contaminating with soot quite quickly. This is not good for cam chains. Another reason why 2 year/20k mile oil service intervals are a bad idea.

    I'd have a specialist with diagnostic equipment check the cam positions for peace of mind.

  13. I declined the Audi "all in" servicing deal because I went for a stage 1 tune so the engine wouldn't have been warrantied. Don't know if VW clean the Haldex filter as part of their servicing but Audi just change the oil. I cleaned my filter at 32000 miles and it was very dirty.

    I've spent about £1k on servicing and repairs on the Porsche over the last two years but if it had gone into the OPC, it would have cost at least 50% of the car's value.   

  14. 1 minute ago, daz05 said:

    And your Audi goes there twice as often. 12 month interval on the S3.

     

    You can have an S3 on long life servicing but 2 years/20,000 is too long a service interval for anyone who really wants to look after and preserve the life of their engine.

    My point was that you get two services and a two year warranty from Audi for half the price for a similar amount of "work" and no warranty from Porsche. Yes, you get MOTs, with the Porsche deal but they then have your car when it fails so you are more likely to let them lift your leg further for any repairs.

    I declined Audi's offer and service it myself, as I do my Boxster. 

     

  15. On 3/10/2023 at 1:58 PM, Carmand said:

    Not sure if Porsche have updated their offering recently but checked it out after seeing it on another forum; for my 981 Spyder a plan that covers a minor and a major service (so 4 year’s maintenance) is £69/month over 24 months or £1656 up front I.e. no interest for paying in instalments.

    It covers all standard maintenance within the 4 year cycle (so e.g. 2 brake fluid changes and plugs) but not the 6 yearly items such as the belt or air filters) and 2 mots.  You can pay more and have an annual oil change too.

    For the Boxster it’s for 2007 to 2016 vehicles so sits across what they have currently defined as Classic and older/more modern cars.  Other models have similar age brackets so clearly an attempt to hold onto business - I suppose they’ve finally realised that there workshops can’t run on Taycans etc alone.

    Seems like good value to me - a fixed monthly cost for  (albeit after 2 years you’ve loaned some money to vwfs) covering most non consumable service items for the next 4 years and considerably cheaper than I’ve been paying even by shopping around.

    The only slight issue at the moment is that there web site won’t validate my direct debit details!

     

    That's twice the price Audi charge for a major and minor service contract on an S3 - and they throw in 2 years extended warranty for that price!

    Porsche belt and air filter change - it's a low skill DIY job that takes less than an hour to change both.  

    The only difference I can see is the receptionists in my local Porsche Centre wear higher heels than the girls at Audi. 

  16. Oil pressure from the pump on the outide of the cartridge, back pressure from the oil distribution system on the inside. The structure of the filter with concertina element and glued ends make them quite strong as you will find if you cut them open. Was the filter element really gungey? Has one of the glued ends failed? It might be worth checking the by-pass valve mounted inside the plastic housing - that valve should open to ensure oil circulates if the filter blocks. The pressure differential across the filter increases as the filter becomes blocked and increases quite quickly when it starts to clog with fine particles.

    I'd suspect faulty filter but clean oil is the life blood of an engine and personally, I'd change the oil every 3000 miles or 1 year whichever comes soonest as insurance. Old engines don't usually die of natural causes, dirty oil is a common murder weapon.

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