TROOPER88

44 minutes ago, iborguk said:

You make a good point.

@TROOPER88 Variocom solenoid ?

Unplug the MAF and report back 👍🏻

Variocam would give a code; off the top of my head P1341 / 2

- Banging is the gears in the roof gearboxes.

- 1998 will have the early gearboxes (aluminium cases) and one big gear which is not 360 degrees but circs 250 ish. One of the rams has most likely come off the gear.

- Roof gearboxes would need stripping down to check for damaged teeth.

- Had a forums members early 986 in the workshop last week and in his case, the relay was defective and wasn't telling the motor to stop when closing the roof.

38 minutes ago, Sword said:

Bagshot - M3 Jn 3

The guys I use are in Molesey. 

DM me if you want his number. 

44 minutes ago, Sword said:

I'm looking for a body shop to paint bumpers/bonnet and front wings. 

I'm based in Surrey but prepared to travel if needed for the work

So far I have spoken to 5 body shops and none have got back to me. I guess they aren't interested in my business!

Any suggestions gratefully received

Cheers

What part of Surrey?

I’ve just ordered new tyres for my 981.

Pilot Sport 4 S’s and they were £1140 on Blackcircles.

These are for 20’ wheels.

15 hours ago, RedBarediver said:

Finally finished with this weekend's work. Paul @TROOPER88 helped me with the clutch, flywheel and Rear Main Seal install yesterday. Luckily we had a gazebo over us because the weather was atrocious. We worked until just after 6 pm, I think. This morning I got busy and reinstalled the exhaust and all the other bits I took off. Then I had to do a few more jobs on the car. Sort out the pipe from the airbox to the intake which wasn't connected on the airbox end. Before that though I had to take off the whole air pipe because there was still one recalcitrant bolt that needed to go on the gearbox. What a pain that was. Then of course the roof had developed one of it gremlins so all afternoon I was bugging Paul with questions and he guided me to get the roof working and seated properly. The warning light still stays on but I'll have another go the coming weekend. I was tired and annoyed with the darn thing - and I wanted to take the car for a test drive!

I have to say that I could not have done the job without Paul's guidance and assistance. Trust me, it was a load of work and we were non-stop all day with the exception of one or two cups of coffee. I can't speak highly enough of him. 

All that effort has paid off handsomely though. The clutch feels like a Porsche clutch should feel. The car is a delight to drive and runs beautifully.

Next weekend I'll revisit the roof, and then finally get the graphite grey carpet out, and the NOS black carpet in. I'm still waiting for one piece to arrive but the main carpet and all the other major bits are here so I can crack on with that.

Edited because I completely forgot to mention the transmission mounts which we replaced. Easy enough job - just a pain to ensure everything lines up.

Pleasure to be able to help @RedBarediver and amazing effort on your part. 

It just goes to show what can be done on a single driveway alongside your house with basic tools. 

I do not get involved in the mods whatso ever but what I will say is that the 02 sensors should be Bosch. I had a 986 in the workshop on Wednesday and the issue was the heating element in one of the 02 sensors; I found a break in the wiring harness; it was not a quality part. 

You could smoke test it as Bally maybe on the right lines with air or vacuum leak.

21 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Mine was out after doing just tuning forks on the rear.

Very strange 

Tired solenoid 

36 minutes ago, kdh said:

Thanks. That's saved an injury.

Seriously, I’m a massive advocate of people having a go 😄

If you undo the 18mm and the other side turns, happy days, it’s not seized and a 10 min job.

Pay your specialist £200.

Not worth the hassle at home tbh. 
 

You could undo the 18mm just to see if they are seized and if they are (they will be) leave it for the Indy.

Clutch master cylinder

Not all have it fitted.

Currently got one in the workshop without one and have seen it lots of times in the past.

If you take things apart, always put them back as soon as you can!

That is the AC compressor feed.

3 minutes ago, phazed said:

Rubber bellow? One of the joiners to the plenum? If so, to the tee piece plenum?
So stupid not to remember where it went.

Correct.

On on the drives side

Just now, phazed said:

You are correct. One long line goes to the three-way splitter, but there is also a shorter line which isn’t connected to anything, (at the moment) and maybe was connected to possibly the plenum?

The shorter one comes off before the splitter and go to a check valve before it continues into the rubber bellow 

The thing you are describing is a change over valve and has a vacuum line to the 3 way splitter. 

Splits to vacuum chamber etc 

9 minutes ago, 986Jack said:

Thank you. 

Yes, hopefully turning without the tensioners was ok then. I've moved it back to TDC now.

I presume to get the timing out, the chain has to skip a tooth on the cog. I know that's easier done on a belted engine.

For this reason, I could not actually understand why the crank and cam shafts need locking for this job.

Correct and most indy's from my little experience only lock the crank at TDC.

Mat Watson on YouTube took his 996 to Rennworks and they video the IMSB removal, only the crank was locked. 

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Just hope it stays captive...

Torque is 160Nm both ends.

No big deal if they don’t.

Can get a ratchet on the top

35 minutes ago, 986Jack said:

Yes...that's the one.

No harm will have been done. 
 

All you have done is turned the engine over a little.

Do you mean the pin you used to lock the crank at TDC?

4 minutes ago, Fat Rat said:

Plan today was to replace the tuning forks and exhaust. Unfortunately rain stopped play. I did take the wheel off on the side I have a snooker ball and had a look. I will need to get the under tray off for better access, but my question is.

Is the top nut on the bush end fixed or do I need to get a spanner on it somehow?

Ta. 🤙🏻

Captive nut Sir

1 minute ago, Hainesy said:

I've got a recip saw, haven't used it for metal before though - I'm after a blade like this?

https://www.toolstation.com/bosch-expert-thick-tough-metal-carbide-sabre-saw-blade-s955chc/p67022?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dc&pcrid=null&pkw=null&pmt=null&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5v2wBhBrEiwAXDDoJZO7GpmQE7hsVN5E24AEJdUCR-eOI29IuiOAETvczrYPQ_vYw4gkjxoCEkoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Screwfix sell the Milwaukee blades with carbide teeth (Torch). 

If the lower control arms bolts are seized, you need to be extremely careful as the subframe is very soft. Damage the subframe and it's a whole world of pain.

You may be lucky and your fixings are not seized  

5 minutes ago, Hainesy said:

Thanks @TROOPER88 that's useful info. I hadn't considered doing the droplinks and control arms as well - is it obvious from a visual inspection if they need replacing too?  I assume with the droplinks at least its the rubber part that fails on them?

 

You won't have a choice re the drop-links as they will be seized more than likely.

They are more difficult to remove than 986 drop links as when you cut the link with a reciprocating saw, on a 986 it leaves the clean 17mm nut that you use a good gun on and a lot of heat. On the 87's there is a welded washer fitted to that nut and using an angle grinder, you flatten the sides of that washer to allow a 17mm impact socket to fit. 

It would be shrewd to replace all the components in one hit as you will be undoing everything to get the shocks out. 

I do it by removing the whole hub and strut assembly in one go with the LCA's still attached. 

987 Bilsteins are on back order and have been for a long time unfortunately. 

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