TROOPER88
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Posts posted by TROOPER88
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5 minutes ago, Hainesy said:
Thanks @TROOPER88 that's useful info. I hadn't considered doing the droplinks and control arms as well - is it obvious from a visual inspection if they need replacing too? I assume with the droplinks at least its the rubber part that fails on them?
You won't have a choice re the drop-links as they will be seized more than likely.
They are more difficult to remove than 986 drop links as when you cut the link with a reciprocating saw, on a 986 it leaves the clean 17mm nut that you use a good gun on and a lot of heat. On the 87's there is a welded washer fitted to that nut and using an angle grinder, you flatten the sides of that washer to allow a 17mm impact socket to fit.
It would be shrewd to replace all the components in one hit as you will be undoing everything to get the shocks out.
I do it by removing the whole hub and strut assembly in one go with the LCA's still attached.
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987 Bilsteins are on back order and have been for a long time unfortunately.
Edit: Advertising?
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2 hours ago, Bike Loon said:
had the new rear brake pads fitted
I’m sure you could have managed that job Stew 😊👍🏻
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24 minutes ago, Andyrob said:
Help please. Blocked drains cleared. Use my cover now... rear controller swapped and coded. Roof just dead. Fuses ok, roof switch ok i think. My icarsoft gives me c121 comm rear control unit (comfort).
Windows don't drop either??
I'm Bromley area.
Needs to be plugged into PIWIS or Durametric.
If an indy coded it, I would hazard a guess that it has been coded to the wrong vehicle type.
I have worked on a few 87's where myself and other Indys have coded the module to a Cayman. This allows the windows to close etc until the problems can be fixed.
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7 minutes ago, Nobbie said:
The 2.5 5 chain I’ve just scrapped had 165k on it, used 5W 40 Titan Supersyn and never rattled on startup. I did measure the cam deviation which was well within limits at 3 degrees.
The disabling the fuel pump trick sounds like a good cheap solution👍
That’s amazing
Regular oil changes?
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23 minutes ago, Norbert said:
Up north Sheffield.
There is sure to be a member close to you who can help you out with PIWIS or Durametric
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6 minutes ago, Norbert said:
I am going to change to oil soon (Mobil 1 0w/40). I wil let you know the results.
Unfortunetly, i don't have durametric tool to check the camshat deviation.
What area are you?
Call by anytime if you would like me to plug your car in.
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19 minutes ago, ½cwt said:
Part of the 5 chain M96 engine experience?
@TROOPER88 Paul, any thoughts?
I have only very, very rarely experienced it tbh.
In the past, I have advised those suffering from it to try Mobil1 0W/40 which is the only oil I use.
If this does not work, I would be very interested to know what camshaft deviations are on the vehicle in question.
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54 minutes ago, Araf said:
You'll have to hazard another guess. I finally remembered to look up the picture from over 10 years ago, when I had to change pads due to the sensor activating. Just over 1/2 worn or 2/3rds worn at best.
As above, a new Textar pad is 17mm thick and a 986 Textar pad being 15mm thick AFAIK.
I would hazard a guess that the diameter of the brake pad wear sensor hole to be circa 3-4mm. Therefore, taking the 987 as the example, the sensor insulation would not be broken until 14mm of the pad material had been used. This would roughy equate to 85% used and 15% remaining.
I think what you are suggesting is that your brake wear sensor was triggered after only circa 50% of the pads life. If this is the case, then something was very wrong with the pads you used.
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10 minutes ago, phazed said:
Right, I really must get onto my double beeping. It is getting embarrassing. Every time I pull up anywhere and open the drivers door it double beeps.
Without reading back through the thread, can someone advise me what the first move is and where to go from there.
IF anyone on here has a double beep OR a single beep BUT the car is definitely locked and it is purely just the sound that is the problem, DM me and I will let you know how to stop it.
The reason I say to DM is that the double beep is a security/alarm fault and I do not want to disclose such information openly.
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1 hour ago, Bike Loon said:
How do you know its OEM though? The previous owner might have changed it for a cheap pattern one
As Steve is the most reputable seller possible.
Steve has forgotten more about Porsches than I will ever know.
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6 minutes ago, ATM said:
Shocked
Is it worth trying a repair kit?
It’s not a job you want to be doing regularly.
In all honesty, best to do it once and do it right 👍🏻
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1 minute ago, ATM said:
Not Gen
I usually pay circa £300
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1 hour ago, Bike Loon said:
So went and had a look this morning, plenty on the fronts but the rears are low so guess I will be ordering those.
No doubt they still need the stupidly expensive anti squeal bits
This should have been noted by your indy at your last service Stew.
With regard all the fitting 'furniture', you can usually re-use if you take care when stripping it all down.
I think I am only circa an hour from you, let me know if you would like me to book it in
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21 minutes ago, fizz said:
Great thread. Went to wash my car today and the window got stuck halfway down whilst the regulator continued to the bottom. Lol.
Heard a grinding as it was happening. What's the chances that the window has just come loose and just needs to be reseated into the regulator? (Wishful thinking)
Next question has already been answered. Get genuine porsche regulator will be bought. So the design 911 OE match with 2 years warranty is a no no?
Also when yours went, did you have a churning sound? Hoping it's not the motor that's gone as opposed to the regulator.
Genuine and don't forget to rivet the stop in
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3 minutes ago, Clarky2 said:
@TROOPER88 I'll have to look back at posts to check, but I spoke to someone on here at the time having published some pics of the car. Basically, the previous owner who was Hertfordshire based had taken the car down to Surrey where a forum member (I thought it was you) had done an inspection which identified a whole load of issues. I turned up a day or two later just to look at the car, having had no intention of buying another car beforehand, and bought it on the spur of the moment. Obviously he hadn't told me about the inspection, but I found out subsequently through this forum.
It is possible.
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11 minutes ago, Clarky2 said:
My Boxster purchase was a spur of the moment decision.
It was cheap and is far from perfect. I spoke to @TROOPER88 via this forum at the time as the previous owner had asked him for an opinion on it and then immediately sold it! There was a huge list of apparent issues and if I could have my time over I would pay a couple of grand more and get a good one that had already had the main jobs done. However, I really have really bonded with the thing over the last 18 months. Despite all its faults every drive is an event and I feel a genuine responsibility to keep it on the road. So I guess I'm just going to have to find the cash.
I was not aware that I knew the car?
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10 minutes ago, Araf said:
I always put genuine pads on mine. On the last car I only replaced them just before I sold it - after 40k miles so IMHO cheap pads are a false economy.
In my experience, the pads only have to be 2/3rds worn to trigger the sensor. I'll have to find the pad comparison picture. It's in my work computer so that won't be until Monday.
A new 987 front Textar pad is 17mm thick.
I would hazard a guess that the wear sensor is about 3mm into the pads.
As above, from my experience alone, the pads have got to be very low to brake the sensor insulation and its rare.
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Stu, it should be extremely clear / easy to see through the wheels if the pads are indeed low enough to trigger the sensor.
I’d be surprised as pads have got to be so low to brake the sensor!
Much more likely a broken sensor. Go round with a good known sensor and plug it in wheel by wheel until the light goes out.
Pads wise, Textar, Pagid etc will all be fine 👍🏻
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40 minutes ago, fizz said:
There's a chap on Torque Boxsters group on facebook @TROOPER88's page and he i think is in the trade and has a number of exhausts being shipped over from the US so thought some here might be interested.
"Aaron Rathore ·Good morning everyone,I try not to make sales posts here being a business, and this is perhaps against group rules (apologies if so) but I want anyone here who needs one to have first opportunity.It is becoming increasingly difficult to find genuine silencers for our cars in good condition, being left with only aftermarket solutions that just don't sound the same. With that in mind I have a shipment of Genuine used silencers arriving 15th April from USA.
These exhausts will be in mint condition since they don't have the sort of corrosion we have. For any interested parties please send me a private message. I will be making a list of members here to get the most mint condition examples before they are offered on our online store.
2.5, 2.7, 3.2 variations on route, both facelift and pre facelift.Price will be roughly £500 delivered for group members."Aaron is a great guy and a reputable breaker, I have known him for years.
For those on my FB group, I added a picture this morning of one of the Californian mufflers I fitted and they are like new.
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Water leak
in 986
3 hours ago, scorpio63 said:Thank you for the reply. I live in Fareham, Hampshire...
Send me a DM if you like as I maybe able to help.
The workshop is in Lower Sunbury so not a million miles away from you
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1 hour ago, ½cwt said:
Best of luck. They might add a bit of time if the drop link/pinch bolts and the damper tubes are corroded into the hub but with the correct gear on hand in a full workshop it should go OK. @TROOPER88 timings look OK to you?
A Porsche specialist with all the correct tools (recip saw etc) to hand can do it in this.
Top mounts can be seized in place, drop link will need cutting out etc.
False economy as has been discussed not to change the whole lot in one hit. I have a 986 coming back in the next few weeks for a knock at the front. I replaced the shocks and top mounts last year but the owner did not want anything else changed even though I had it off the car and I forewarned him that it is a lot cheaper to change now.
Front suspension refresh - Rate my shopping list!
in 987
Posted
Screwfix sell the Milwaukee blades with carbide teeth (Torch).
If the lower control arms bolts are seized, you need to be extremely careful as the subframe is very soft. Damage the subframe and it's a whole world of pain.
You may be lucky and your fixings are not seized