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TROOPER88

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Posts posted by TROOPER88

  1. 3 hours ago, andrewwalling said:

    Having a problem with the hand brake on the 986 

    I have fully serviced the brakes and adjusted the hand brake as detailed in the service manual and I have managed to get it onto the the MOT rolling road but I can not get a positive test as had as I try to apply the hand brake i can only show a very small response on the machine...not enough to get a pass

    Any suggestions

    What area are you Andy?

    Have you adjusted the cables correctly?

  2. 4 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

    It didn't include plugs; I just asked them to remove one and report on condition before we made a call whether to change.  But with it looking like coil packs are somewhere in the near future, the plugs will get done then.  All part of extending the budget a bit here and there and doing most of the work myself, as it is after all my hobby to work on as well as to drive! 

    I did the belt myself in June 2020 when the alternator failed.  The one I took off was pretty poor in terms of starting to crack up.  We did discuss it when I booked the service.  To be fair to Dove House they are very good at discussing everything and working to service your car how you want it and advising on the items you have not asked for, pretty much like your good self.  You also get a Mini or A1 loan car from them. 

    Possibly not the cheapest but still good value in the area compared to another local indy I first went, to who seemed to think a 986 should be priced the same way as an air-cooled car, and then add VAT and then add a credit card surcharge..... In 2018 a major service with them with a gearbox oil change too, plugs and some plug tube o-rings was just short of £600.

    What is included in the £378 Chris?

    8.25 litres Mobil 1, oil filter, cabin filter and air filter?

  3. 15 hours ago, ½cwt said:

    Taken it to Dove House Motors in Rushden for its annual service (about 5.5k miles this year).  Major service this time round with all filters, oil and levels checks for all other fluids and a detailed inspection.  £378.  Good service and courtesy car as ever. 

    They picked up on some significant cracking on two coil packs and hairline cracks in two others (Beru ZS178 are £20.90 each on Autodoc currently) but have reported the plugs are good for another 2 years at least, they've been in there for 4 years/20k miles, but brake line corrosion is widespread (major brake system refresh planned already for this winter) as is exhaust corrosion (whilst not leaking it is not being touched!)  and a minor oil leak from the timing chain tensioner seal.  Not too bad for a 22½ year-old 110k mile car that is far from pampered.

    Hi Chris

    You do not mention the drive belt? It is a super important part that is often overlooked Sir. I think I am the only specialist who changes the belt as part of the major service! :)

    The £378, this includes new plugs as well?

    I am £399 for a major on a 986 but that includes plugs and belt.

    Glad the car is going well, good luck doing the brakes! :)

  4. The ball joints are very commonly difficult to split. Heat is your friend. Heat the outside of the hub a lot and they will split much easier.

     

    It is also common (50% of the time) for the inserts to come out at the same time and these are not available to buy separately. Using the fork type ball joint splitter that you broke, they are removed. Be extremely careful if using just the fork type splitter to remove the insert as they can fly off very easily.

    • Like 1
  5. Molster, if I can help please let me know.

    I am beginning the sales preparation on a 986 Anniversary 550 this week and will be available in a couple of weeks. It has Black leather, one owner from new and 70k with huge history. 

    Any advice, just shout 

    • Like 1
  6. 1 minute ago, Boxstclever said:

    Tend to agree with this.  Surely a used part has a higher propensity to going wrong in the near to medium future compared to a new non genuine unit having a manufacturing defect?

    If the non original unit is that much of a worry, then a new genuine replacement is your only option? 

    Not really.

    The cheap pattern parts can be shocking quality. 

    I have fitted loads of used genuine modules and never had a problem but as I said, I can only give you my honest opinion from working on Boxster's every day.

    Some customers prefer a genuine new item which is fine but they cost circa £300 compared with £40 for a used one.

    Door lock modules, window regulators, MAF's, ignition switches, O2 sensors etc ..... Stick with what Porsche used at manufacture. 

    • Like 1
  7. 4 hours ago, Nobbie said:

    Same here, I think Trooper has had some bad experiences with some in the past and assumes this is an ongoing issue with the current locks available.

    Quite a few issues including more than one member on this site alone who fitted a cheap aftermarket module and it deadlocked. The drivers door locked and would not unlock.

    It is quite simply not worth the risk and I will never fathom why someone would fit a cheap crucial part to a Porsche when an original used one can be had for £40.

     

    Do a job once, do it right.

    • Like 1
  8. On 11/19/2022 at 3:55 PM, 987 2.7 said:

    I’ve tried the trick pulling out the positive terminal within the fuse box and clipping the negative to the exposed metal door hinge - and absolutely nothing, either from the key and the sill mounted switch. I’ve used a fully charged jump pack as well. 
    The car has not been started for around 3 months and I left it unlocked to try and conserve the battery. I guess I should have left the front lid unlocked and removed the luggage light terminals. If only 🥴.

    Any advise Chaps ??

    Cheers in advance. Nick. 

    Where are you based Nick?

  9. 1 hour ago, Fat Rat said:

    I will go along that route first. I did take some fluid out a few weeks ago as it was topped up to the brim. I will have a look and see what the level is now. Cheers.

    I had one recently that after a long drive would pull to the left and the NSF brake was binding - it was too much fluid that caused it.

  10. 1 hour ago, Fat Rat said:

    To try and answer the above questions.

    ABS sounds like a probable option. It does feel like a pull. How would you test the ABS sensors?

    Both times it happened I was driving along, so different road & caliper not sticking as I had been driving without braking.

    The car was recently inspected by @TROOPER88 and all looking good in that department.

    No PSM fitted.

    Bit baffled as to how to diagnose the problem.

    Personally, I would strip the brakes down on that corner. Check the pistons are sliding in and out correctly.

    You haven't topped the brake fluid up at all have you? Too much fluid will can cause your exact problem as when the fluid gets hot and expands, it has no where to go if over filled and thus the brake will be applied and the car can pull. 

  11. 13 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

    Pliers

    if you have the spring clamp a pair of these are your friend!

    Had a pair and they broke the first time I used. them.

    With the lower AOS clamp, the issue is that you cant see it AND touch it / work on it at the same time. 

    This is the beauty of a jubilee clip. Easy to get a ratchet on it and you don't need to be looking at it as you loosen or tighten. 

     

  12. 10 hours ago, zcacogp said:

    Thanks (other) Paul. By '86' and '87' I presume you mean '986' and '987', non? 

    I was pleasantly surprised to see a jubilee clip on the outlet pipe downwards as it made the job a lot easier. Whether that indicates that it has been changed before (quite possible, given the age) or not I don't know. 

    Yes, 986/7.

    As I say, you are fortunate to have had the jubilee clip.

  13. The fact that you had a jubilee clip on the rubber bellow indicates that it has been changed before if the same as an 86.

    From factory, it would have a spring clip which is the main reason access is needed under the vehicle and the most awkward part of the job.

     

    The pipes that come from 3 and 4 are vacuum lines and become brittle with age and split on the corrugated sections. 

     

    I can not comment any more as I do not really work on that many 87's tbh. 

     

    Paul 

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