TROOPER88

2 hours ago, scorpio63 said:

Hi

Thank you for replying. The drive has a grass insert down the middle, so checking for water is not possible. The noise I heard was probably the impeller or bearings in the pump ( not mechanically minded so excuse me). The water pump has not been changed in my ownership( 9 years).

What area are you?

1 minute ago, robert997 said:

That’s exactly what was happening - it was lowering too much and the glass was hitting the frame internally. I adjusted repeatedly the parameters i could - height, rake and fore/aft - until it worked reliably.

Does it fit on the bottom right bracket - at the foot of the L on the new regulator? 

The stop is to prevent this you see.

As for location, as above, you’ll see it on the old one  

Look at your pic and you can just make it out on the bottom right hand corner 

1 minute ago, robert997 said:

Thanks @TROOPER88 - would appreciate some help ! I’ve not seen/read this before. Where/how does it fit, and how do i rivet without a rivet gun??

Is there any guidance available pls?

Glad I’ve asked before sealing it all back in the door !!

Copy the old one Robert; it is there, I can see it in your picture.

If the stop is not there, the glass is permitted to drop too low in the door and from experience, the glass will not come up but hit the frame. 

Customers have brought their Boxsters to me in the past where they have done exactly this.

You could use a small nut and bolt if you do not own a rivet gun.

The parts are needed.

The regulator isn’t just for a 986 but 996 also AFAIK.

For a 986, the ‘stop’ is riveted to the bottom of the frame.

Check your old one as it should be there. 
 

I am very surprised that the window is operating correctly with it not fitted.

I can see the cut out in your new regulator where it goes.

5 minutes ago, Bbooxxsstteerr said:

I change my own on my mx 5 as I faff about with spring rates (it’s a popular mx5 pass time) but I check my will and tell my family I love them before digging out the spring compressors…….

Very true.

A tool that has to be treated with respect at all times. 

25 minutes ago, Clarky2 said:

That's a very kind offer. It looks like a four hour round trip from Cambridge, but it could get me out of a hole and through an MOT.

As 1/2 CWT says it could easily become a false economy and I have started pricing up new front suspension, but I would rather take my time collecting the parts and making the right choices rather than being forced into potentially expensive mistakes just to get through a new ticket.     

No worries, shout f I can help.

I do complete front end refreshes on a 986 for £1500 and that is new everything. 

I do though understand your predicament but as Chris explains, to change the shock, a lot has to be taken apart. You will at an absolute minimum be changing the shock, top-mount, bearing, bump stop and the drop link and of course, you should do both sides. 

@Clarky2, I throw out shocks every week. 
 

Used shocks are no use to me whatsoever ever.

I think I have a set you can have but collection from Lower Sunbury, Surrey 👍🏻

What area are you @Graemep7ii?

Also what year is the car as the microswitches are different in the early 986's when compared to the later cars.

Congratulations @Langers 

Who is carrying out the PPI for you?

Swing by Lower Sunbury on your way home in it and we can put it on the ramp and have a look.

DM me is this is something you would like to do (no charge).

Paul 

28 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Not cheap by any standard. And no one wanted to bid above 10k?

Eyes open for that one. 

My thoughts precisely. 

After some suspension work and other bits and pieces, it would be circa 17-18k and that is a lot of money for a 986.

5 minutes ago, Langers said:

Agent replied that the car can be secured for £14,500 all in. I’ve asked to view, hopefully will hear back tomorrow. I’m not sure it’s the £14k car seller reckons it is. Might still be a deal to be done though.

I would advise you get the car inspected on a ramp if at all possible prior to handing over any payment.

As above that looks bad and possibly looks to me like that has been welded before. 

That exact location is not an area I usually see as the rubber ramp blocks cover it. 

29 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

It did flash up with a message the last time I was in the car saying wiper sensor fault, I have the auto wipers. Wipers work fine but no washers for headlights or to windscreen. I'm guessing it's strip down. The car that is 🤣

I would advise you not to start stripping the arch out just yet Sir.

You have two pumps, one for the windscreen and one of the headlights AFAIK. I have stripped a couple down on 987's but I am more of a 986 guy.

If neither pump can be heard, it will be electrical. Don't forget though that the lights have to be on I think for the headlight washer system to work. 

27 minutes ago, Paul Harper said:

The plastic ball joint snapped on one side, fortunately I ordered some a few months back from Amazon as I thought they would break sooner or later. After replacing it the other one then snapped. This one will not stay on and is coming off every time the roof operates. The ones I bought are not OEM so am thinking are they coming off because of this. Obviously I can order a pair again from Amazon but OEM ones, would this sort it out, do they fit better?
There is another issue. The nut has come loose on the other side of the ball and I can’t see a way of tightening it due to there being no space, any ideas?
Thanks.

The nut is a very slim nut and acts in a captive fashion and you will struggle with a normal nut.  

The ball sockets snapping is telling you something is not right in the roof system. 

11 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Strong mixes there!  General cleaner is supposed to be 8:1 according to the Auto Smart data sheets.

I guess it depends on what you are cleaning. 

I have been using G101 for over 10 years and it is brilliant stuff! 

4 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Put it into eBay, quite a lot of outlets sell it in varying quantities.,  I got 1 litre, which at 8:1 dilution for this sort of application will last me pretty much for ever...  That said it works as a degreaser too for engine bays and the like at higher concentrations.

I buy it in 25 litre drums and use it all the way from neat (wheel arches etc) to circa 30% as an APC.

Avoid the cheaper options that claim to do the same, they are no where near as good. 

12 hours ago, Boxob said:

Removing the starter motor is on my to do list (but not urgent) however this thread and the clips made me wonder how DIY it is for me. That lower bolt removal and replacement in particular, looks a right PITA and I don't (currently) have an 18" socket extension to tackle it from inside the cab!  However it could perhaps be reached from the top with a very flexible extension 'bar'. To my surprise such a things exists; it has a bar like a spring. Does anyone know:

1. Whether the lower bolt can be reached from above or below?

2. Whether a flexible socket extension would work e.g. It's flexible enough and strong enough to handle the torque necessary?

A good starter motor isn't expensive so I would recommend replacement as opposed cleaning as the car will start better with a new one.

To answer your question:

1) Through the access panel 

2) No

51 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

I'm thinking fuel cap seal or fuel tank vent issue for P0440, cracked coil packs for P0301 & P0302, and variocam solenoid/actuator or cam chain guide wear for P1341 (on bank 1 causing miss fire to cylinder 1 & 2).  The first code is probably not linked, but the last three listed could all have the same under lying cause.

00 boxster 2.7 liter need help p1341 codes - 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S) - RennTech.org Community

P1341 error today- First check engine light in 3 years! - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums

@TROOPER88 any ideas?

I replied on the OP's other post. The P1341 is bank 1 variocam. If very lucky, it will only the solenoid and not the actuator. (Budget circa 1.5k for the solenoid and a lot more if actuator). This can cause misfire codes. 

Check deviations and if high, now is the time to change the pads as well.

2 minutes ago, greenman986s said:

Really?

I've removed my CDR23 several times and refitted - is the code tied to the VIN and it remembers it?

Correct 

23 is coded to the vehicle

22 requires the code

1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

Or, if pennies are tighter I fitted a salvage genuine one to my pax side over 4 years ago, still going strong, about 20-25% the price of new on the basis I can afford 3 more changes (either side) with salvage components before I get to the price of one new one and then have to do the driver's side.....

Yes, you can go this way but it can back fire.

I fitted a used genuine one to a customers car (obviously they wanted to save money) 10 months ago and it failed last week. 

Not worth messing around as the membrane does not like being removed/refitted etc.

Do a job once and do it right.

Regulator cable has stretched. 

There are hacks available (cable ties, bicycle cable adjusters etc to take up the slack) but personally, I would replace the regulator with a new genuine part and avoid non-gen regulators like the plague. 

As above, not on a 986.

Its time to go back to basics - fuel, air etc 👍🏻

Shout if I can help 

1 hour ago, phazed said:

I think I will still open up the tank and just check that there is actually fuel in there. Not sure if I will be able to see anything else. A filter is a filter.
Of course, another reason could be a failing pump and pressure might be low. This I suppose could be tested if you knew what you were doing. 😂

This should not turn in to car parts lottery game which is the route you are going down.

You mention that it could be the MAF, an air leak, the fuel filter etc. Yes, 'it could be' a couple of these things but you seem reluctant too diagnose the issue properly even though a few members have suggested you plug it into a diagnostics reader.

If you Son is a mechanic, he should have a scanner than will read it no problem. Ask him if you can borrow it for 30 minutes - job done. If you believe you have an air leak, ask your Son to borrow his smoke machine at the same time. 

I would advise against you opening up the fuel tank. The filter is a lifetime fit and 1) you may struggle to seal the tank correctly once you have opened it, 2) you will need to syphon out the petrol that is in there, 3) you will need to remove the sender unit as well as the pump and it is quite easy to not put things back correctly. 

Scan the car the car correctly and go from there would be my advice. 

On 2/15/2024 at 10:55 PM, bally4563 said:

This is not going to help you did both lower front control arms tonight 1 1/2  in total , but then I have done quite a few !  Technique and equipment!

Surely in time you did all 4? 

On a 986 or 987, if the bolts are seized, a man of your calibre should be able to change the front in 30 minutes.