TROOPER88

As I said, you need to unblock the AC drain.

Its a common issue easily sorted 

1 hour ago, rayan said:

Just checked a video and yeah that definitely could be it, likely from the top of the drain tube as there's a wet patch right from where that is. 

Would make the most sense as there is no water pooling in the front scuttle. 

Time to pull the carpet up and have a look! 

 

Get underneath the car and ensure that you can see the drain and try and unblock it

35 minutes ago, rayan said:

As I expect is the case for a lot of people, the 986 I bought that was kept in a garage all the time has sprung a leak in the rain we've had recently. 

Noticed it's in the following location and it's holding a decent amount of water as it's quite squelchy when pushed:

 

Top of the passenger floor mat is dry so suspect it's running in under the carpet, is this going to be front drains? I've given them a clear with a trombone cleaner but I may not have done a good enough job! If it's not the front drains is there any other possible location it could be coming from? If it helps I also park on a fairly sloped driveway so there is a potential that's not helping things. 

 

To help rule things out, the passenger door card feels dry and behind passenger seat feels dry. If I have time this weekend I'm going to get the wet vacuum on it and potentially look at adapting a tupperware container to sit the under seat module in. 

That’s your AC drain causing that 

If you’d like to get the car recovered to me, I’ll sort.

I seem to recall speaking on the phone with you circa 2 months ago regarding your roof not operating.

Recovery to me and I’ll sort the ACU and the roof.

20 hours ago, jonogt6 said:

Wow this thread is getting well juicy 😜. And 15 grand for a decent sports car...seems like a bargain to me. The 550 is bound to become collectable if it isn't already. I'm sure people said the same thing about 80's 911s 20 years ago, and we all know what's happened to those prices.

Well said Jono.

I recall circa 15 years ago being able to pick up a 964 for 15k! 

As I say, the Anniversary's will only go one way in value and the one in question would have been 20k IMHO had it been a manual.

After owning 120 986's, I finally have a 550 that I am currently prepping

8 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

How do they get on? Respectable price, some disappointments, totally unpredictable?

It is like life in general, you have to take the rough with the smooth.

Apart from low mileage 550's and the like 986's have dropped in value quite a lot in the past 18 months. 

I had to clear some stock and had purchased a couple when prices were high but could not prep them for ages as simply too busy. In the end I took a loss on one of them.

2 hours ago, TV8 said:

For me, if it’s an auction, then it’s the most accurate price? What someone is actually prepared to pay vs what someone thinks their vehicle is worth.  
 

Nail on the head. 

It is the easiest and most accurate way to determine what an items actual worth is. 

Some people do not understand this.

If I have a 986 that has not sold for some time, I will list it on Ebay as a 7 day no-reserve auction. 

4 hours ago, r1flyguy said:

Please block me too if you don’t like the fact I have an opinion and I love chips, especially with steak 😁

Done Sir

Take care

Paul 

I see that utter imbecile @EXY had replied to this thread.

I can not read what he as said as I have blocked all contact from him. 

I find him an offensive racist.

Some say that lots of owners is actually a good thing.

The reason being, each of those owners probably treated the car really well once they purchased it. People tend to service it, replace any broken parts etc etc 

Yes, it does affect the value but buy on condition. 

2 hours ago, r1flyguy said:

Spoken like a true car salesmen 🤣

 

Hopefully prices will correct themselves from the current stupidity in due course 🤪

In what way do I sound like a true car salesman?

You come across like you have a bit of a chip on your shoulder tbh.

As for prices correcting themselves in due course, what on earth are you talking about? The car in question is a low mileage Anniversary model. There is only one direction prices for such cars is heading.

I simply cannot fathom why an individual would write such utter rubbish on a public forum. We should be encouraging traffic to this website and yet you come up with such rubbish such as 'a fool and his money...'

If the new owner of that Anniversary now frequents this site, they are not going to be best pleased reading the utter rubbish that you have posted.

4 minutes ago, Baldrick said:

A new baby daughter means my 986 has been pressed into daily duties whilst the Mrs has the family car.

I'm loving it to be honest - they are such usable cars but 50 miles a day round the mucky old Kent lanes means it's minging now 😪

But they're for using after all 👍 Shout out to @TROOPER88 for supplying such a well-sorted car.

Sorry about the fuzzy phone pic.

 

Many congratulations on the arrival of your Daughter  

I estimated 14-15k which is about right in my opinion. 

In a auction, whether that be Ebay, CC or BCA, cars sell for what they are worth. 

For those who thought this was pricey, find me another one.......

Looked a lovely example and even had the Porsche PCM which is circa £1500 on its own.

Good car, fair price and would have been 5k more had it been a manual.

Paul 

11 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

If it is a single row IMSB you could just replace with an equivalent bearing (6204-ZZ or 6204-2RS for less than £5) with zero miles, not the expensive ceramic of oil fed solutions.  @TROOPER88 what is your view on this?  If it is an earlier car (approx. first 4 months of 2001 Model Year) with a double row, then they whilst not bullet proof, have many other things that are more likely to fail first but can also be done bearing only if you can find a double row bearing of the type (Deep Groove Ball Bearing - Double Rows BD20-17-A-DDUA17NX01-NSK NSK, Inner diam. 20 mm, Outer diam. 47 mm, Width 23.812 mm), they seem to be rare but are typically around £50.  What year is your car?

I think the OP needs to do more research.

The cats stay on the car!

RMS: If it is leaking change it but you need a tool. Please do not think you can just tap it in, it WILL leak and prob very badly. It has to be set precisely at 13mm in.

IMS: Leave alone as if not experienced, you can cause more harm than good.

The main thing is you need to be very strong and fit to this. The gearbox weighs circa 75kg and getting in back in is hard. 

Where are you OP?

Yes, give it a go and yes, that's the release bearing making the noise.

The bit you may struggle with is getting the box back in.

Apart from that, it really is not a difficult job at all. It is simply nuts, bolts and screws.

You will need new exhaust furniture and most likely a grinder to remove the old ones. Also a new Sachs clutch kit is sub £300 so there is no point buying a second hand one.

9 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Of course, between the bearing and the lower Belville washer.  Doh!

I have used both the fork type to remove them as well as the other type 

21 minutes ago, Fat Rat said:

Engine was running. Alarm went off. Wouldn’t clear on fob. Fob just flashed. Eventually turned off engine. Tried position 1 no go. Locked, unlocked door with key. No go. Started car again, eventually stopped. 🙄

The car is in an underground car park, so very noisy! 😂might try the banana in the tailpipe trick. 🤙🏻

Regardless of key position, if the battery is no good, the alarm will sound. 

Get yourself a new battery Sir

9 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

I like that one, Paul.  Your vast experience to the fore again.  Doesn't work with a pickle fork type splitter though...

Yes it does Chris.

Hit the fork type splitter under the bush and it will get it moving up the shaft a few mm's. Once it has moved, you can hit it off completely with a screwdriver or drift.

As I say, they can be a pain! What should be a 2 min job can take 30 mins of messing about. 

16 hours ago, DaveyP said:

Made a start on the front this weekend.

It's in bits, but reassembly is halted due to the steering rack bellows I have not fitting. The inner opening is too small. Not the supplier's fault this time, I didn't realize that there were different sizes.

Thought the easiest way to do the top mounts would be to remove the whole strut/hub from the car. Snapped both the wee bolts holding the brake pipe bracket and the plug for the ABS sensor/pad wear thing. A mate of mine has drilled them out and re-tapped them, but I took strut out of the hub on the other side, leaving them untouched.

The top of the drop links, where they go through the hub, took a major beating to come loose. I was surprised at this as the rear ones just popped out.

It'll be next year before I get it all together again.

 

Actually, it's not quite in bits yet. The top nuts are off the struts, but the mounts are seized solid. Any tips here?

 

Seized top mounts are common and so annoying as it should be a simple job.

Grab your blow torch and burn the rubber bush out and that will mean that after 5 mins, you can remove the mount but it will leave a metal collar.

Using your ball joint splitter you will now be able to draw that collar off the strut. 

RMS or IMS flange 99%
 

Most likely the former.

Those who mentioned tensioners, very easy job to change the washers 👍🏻

4 hours ago, Daveb975 said:

Thanks Richard.

Yes, it seems to be heated seats and headlight washers that can be fixed by the handover routine, but the windscreen washer isn’t.

It seems as though the battery change is coincidental this time.

I’ll test voltage at the pump if I can get to it without taking the wheel off!

Doing a pump on a Gen 2 this morning.

Arch liner out and one 13mm bolt for the bottle.

Two pumps if you have headlight washers 

28 minutes ago, Photogirl said:

@TROOPER88 is there a particular reason why you favour the Meyle kit over the Pierberg pump?

I have only used the Meyle kit so can not comment on the Pierberg.

I did one a couple of weeks ago and the Meyle pump feels a super quality pump. 

I supply and fit the Meyle kit for £400.

I have fitted a lot of them and had no problems. It is done from the engine panel behind the seats as well as below  the car.

Paul 

3 hours ago, jonny986s said:

Thanks all for advice on this - going to change pump later this week/ weekend. 

Just to confirm, i'm not planing to change the fuel sender as believe thats okay - just the pump is the likely candidate i understand https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99662013200.htm?pn=996-620-132-00-M82&SVSVSI=0787 

 

 

If you are buying second hand from the likes of Douglas Valley, the pump and sender are usually sold as one piece

Fuel pump is easy.

Ensure you have the correct sender unit as there are two types.

Don't worry about draining the tank, you will. be fine. You do not need to prime or purge the pump either.

The pump simply fits on the base of the tank with a bayonet fitting, be careful not to twist the float and wiring when installing the new one.

Paul