TROOPER88

Different models work in different ways.

The easiest was by far usually is to remove the central locking fuse and insert a short length of wire with the core exposed at each ends. Put the fuse back in ensuring the wire is pushed into the terminal tightly and then take 12v directly to it. On very early 986's, this is the only way to do it as the blade was a latter addition by Porsche. 

Tbh, it is quite rare for them to work from a jump pack, a running car is better. As Paul says above, sometimes it will power the remote and not the buttons on the sill plate. 

6 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

And remarkably they tried to deliver at 12:03 (Sod's law said I had to go out to a site but to be fair was expecting economy 3 day delivery), less than 4 hours later!  Must have had stock at local ECP branch.  They will try again tomorrow....

Check your inner arms at the same time Chris,

If you have not done them, you may as well at the same time.

You will need a geo once done

12 hours ago, 300SL-24 said:

Looking for my first Boxster ideally an "S" and I need some advise.

Looking for something under 8 grand to buy and have seen quite a few advertised. When I started looking I dismissed the tiptronic gearbox ones.

However I have seen a few nice cars that are tiptronic, they seem to be a little cheaper or better value. Would you recommend me one for my budget or should I hold out for a manual?

One car I was interested in had a IMS guard. A button on the dash. and a light and buzzer warning that lets you know if the oil has metal filings in it, has anyone got any info on these, do they actually work?''

Thanks for any advice.

I am not a fan of the tip's but ok if someone has a knee issue for example and struggles with a manual.

What ever floats your boat though.

The car you reference with the button, I know the car and the owner (I am a 986 specialist) 

Shout if I can help

1 minute ago, philw696 said:

Rear main is bone dry which surprised me.

I have the locking kit.

Why do you suggest replace the flange ?

Best place to get the seals, o rings and crush washers for the tensioners.

Dealership or independent ?

Phil.

The flange is what is leaking Phil.

Porsche for the parts

26 minutes ago, philw696 said:

Taken the tiptronic gearbox out of my 05 3.2 S what a job on your own as it's big and heavy.

Biggest pain getting that 12 point female spline bolt out on the left hand side of the box.

I was sure my rear main seal was leaking but that's bone dry it's the IMS bearing leaking.

Going to have to do some research as which way to go now.

Both gearbox mounts leaking so they need renewal.

Soak in the bath now and aperitifs as I'm in France.

Leave the RMS well alone if bone dry.

Lock the engine and replace the IMS flange

1 hour ago, Philc said:

You may want to edit the wheels in the listing, theyre 18” boxster S, not 19s.

Thanks Phil.

Im sure I copied the options correctly but you are indeed right.

I’ll ensure any interested parties are aware 👍🏻

Well this is it, I will put the link in the for sale section as well. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325222599248

10 hours ago, 300SL-24 said:

Hi my first post

I'm looking to buy my first Boxster and the car that I am considering has a problem with the locking.

The doors open with the key but not the key fob. The key fob will open the boot and bonnet by pressing the buttons. Is this likely to be a small fault or something major to sort out?

The car is a 2001 2.7 

If the fob works to open the frunk and the boot but not the unlock the car, it is more than likely a mechanical issue with the fob itself (broken button etc)

The fact that the frunk and the boot still open remotely is telling you that the fob is still communicating with the car.

44 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

I had a hunch it might be as 'basic' as that.  Why can they just machine two flat onto the piston rod for a spanner to fit rather than a female hex or Torx in the top?

Now that’s a good idea 👍🏻 

Removing the old nut is usually the part that can cause issues.

7 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

The top nut damper to top mount. How do you stop the piston rod from spinning even with this witchcraft for yours?

 

- Any technology if sufficiently advanced can be purported to be magic - Athur C Clark

By holding the shaft near the top with mole grips; put a cloth around the shaft first as not to damage it 👍🏻

£90 for an OPC to sort??

That sounds like an absolute bargain, which OPC? I will start sending all my work there 

17 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

The only tricky bit from last time that would come up again was getting enough torque on the nuts on the top of the pistons to the top mounts.  180Nm IIRC was Koni's value.  Advice??

Which nut? The 21mm?

I use my Milwaukee gun for that I can set torque values to it remotely from my phone 

55 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Hmmm - now I've posted this, man maths is saying I should get a set of these H&R springs as I have compatible dampers already... 🤔

Just not sure I want to do that much work again...

If you’ve had it apart recently, it’ll genuinely be a doddle to swap the springs 👍🏻

On 6/1/2022 at 7:50 PM, bally4563 said:

@TROOPER88alert bargain 

Thanks Bally

Tbh, it is not something I change that much surprisingly plus I am not sure these springs are compatible with original shocks?

In other words, if someone uses these, unless they already have M030 shocks fitted, they would need changing as well.  

1 minute ago, Paul P said:

2p worth of opinion  

Bose - more saleable not more valuable 

Heated seats - would expect that 

cruise - nice

Sports chronos - nice 

basalt - yeah if it’s your thing but has to be presented well

2.9 or 3.4 ? - will make a difference. 

tyres - good premium or ok value ? 

Fsh - is that “oil changed and book stamped by honest joes motors” or “history of money spent” on the right things done by the right place   

Bottom end 2.9 private with “light” fsh and clean maybe 18 - 19 

3.4 and a wad of paper 21 - 22

from a specialist - add 3 or 4 to that?

but  they are of course what someone will pay  

4 years ago I looked at a 2.9 similar spec ( no Chronos) - 18k at a “performance car general dealer”

I bought a 2.9 pdk higher spec lower mileage from a specialist for 21k

i wouldn’t be surprised to see those prices repeated today  

   

 

 

 

 

2.9, FPSH or very close I believe but will update, tyres again, will update, car been detailed recently.

From what I know, I expect it to be a top example. 

Sounds like 18-19k is where it should be placed. 

Once I have inspected it, I will update.

Thanks Paul 

17 minutes ago, Araf said:

@Topbox just sold his Gen2 very quickly, if you look in the sale section.

Pothole is looking for an S but it seems many are hanging around, suggesting they're overpriced, and a few have recently been reduced.

 

I can't see a 2.9 doing £20k but I'm no expert and if it's the right car for the buyer....

PDK or manual?

Thanks, It is a manual. 

I just had a look at Topbox's, that looked lovely, higher mileage but a bit newer.

A friend of a friend has approached me to possibly do a commission sale of their 2009 Gen 2 987. I have no idea of value tbh

Details: Basalt, 47k, Bose, Sports Chrono Plus, man, heated seats, cruise etc

FSH

What's it worth? 18k, 20k?

Or if anyone is looking for one, get in touch

16 hours ago, joeluth said:

Took the boxster out: 

Did 5 x 60 to 20mph braking sessions

drove for a few miles to let the air get to them and then repeated.

Completely got rid of the brushing noise and the brakes felt way better,  bitey and quiet.  Result! 

However: 

Something bad happened on the way home. Started to get a wobble through the steering wheel.
went to brake, foot went to the floor, nothing! 

Pumped the brakes  a few times and got some weak stopping power back, I assumed I'd burst a brake pipe.
very very carefully got the car home, parked up and had a look.

Passenger side front wheel - smoking  hot compared to the others, with a noticeable smudge on the brake disc.

Hopped back in and without starting the car I just pressed on the brake again and it went to the floor,
pumped it a few times and it felt rock solid.

Started the car up again and moved it back and forth a bit on the driveway, brakes felt great, really bitey again.

I'm not sure what to make of it,  burst pipe? seized caliper? both!? something else?  urgh.. 

 

I'll get it up on the stands tomorrow when it's light, I just wondered if anyone had experienced this?

Cheers all!

 

 

 

You need to get the car to a specialist / someone who knows what they are doing.

With all due respect, we are talking about brakes. You are fortunate not to have had an accident or even worse with the symptoms you are describing. 

Please do not DIY this.

33 minutes ago, Bradders59 said:

Its free ! Thanks mainly to TROOPER88 suggestion. Sliced through  the bolt as suggested, then a bit of heat around the area with a blowtorch to be sure. A few whacks with a lump hammer and it popped out. 

Very relieved after previously faffing around for hours and getting a nice collection of cuts and bruises for my trouble.

Many thanks. 

haha no problem.

Glad you sorted it

On 5/22/2022 at 6:32 PM, Bradders59 said:

Some progress of sorts today. Did the o/s/f one and it came of reasonably easily. Then went back to the nearside.

I thought I had got it moving and started to work it back and forth.......................and then the hex wrung off !

Have started drilling through it now, with 4, 5, 6 mm drill bits. Gave it a good whacking again with a lump hammer half an hour ago. It didnt budge but I managed to whack my thumb with the lump hammer, so now got that familiar throbbing, plus cuts & grazes.

Have to start a run of night shifts now so play is postponed for the moment. 

I only read briefly but is this a drop link?

If so you can run an angle grinder with a metal cutting disc down the back of the shock and cut the drop link bolt in half. They will then tap out.

I have done this a few times and is very effective.

Sorry to sound harsh OP but you own a Porsche, your RMS is leaking and needs replacing.

Just get it done, it will be cheaper than re-surfacing your driveway. 

1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

There are some variations depending on 5 or 6 speed, Tip and whether you have PSM for the reservoir as it shares with the clutch on the manual 'boxes. The master cylinder is only different if you have PSM, otherwise the same for all the gearbox options. Can I suggest you download the PDF of the Porsche parts catalogue from here:

Porsche Classic Genuine Parts Catalogue - Porsche Great Britain

and do a thorough check for your car.   

@TROOPER88 do you know enough about the differences between 2.7 and 3.2 brakes to comment here having physically seen many of both versions?

Nope as I only work on one at a time and as such, I never compare, if that makes sense.

What I would not do though is change from 2.5/7 to 3.2 with the aim of improving braking. The brakes on all models are fabulous when working correctly.

The OP needs to find his problem rather than throwing money at S brakes 

21 minutes ago, danb said:

Yup, still has the tag on it.

Take it back and they will scan the car with PIWIS and recode the key if necessary 

37 minutes ago, danb said:

Cheers, that does sound likely then.  When you say the stereo cage, do you mean the metal chassis of the cd unit or the cage that the cd unit is inserted/removed from?

The physical metal stereo cage

Your other issue is the actual key head, you'll need new one/s

Stereo cage is an earth.

If not connected, one horn beep will sound when locking.