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Fuelling (95 vs 98ron) - 00' 986 2.7


Adamw

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1 hour ago, Adamw said:

D98ACF47-8480-4E43-AD0A-8D74F8C737B2_zps

 

Here is a pic I took of the face nearest the wing and I assume this shows the little square of plastic you refer to? 

So;

1/push connecter fully down as far as I can.

2/try to pull little square lug back up (towards wiring) 

3/whilst continuing to apply pressure on lug try to pull the connector upwards.

Great thanks, I'll try this tonight

 :thumbsup_anim:

Exactamundo :-) the connector may be stuck on the sensor so a quick wiggle to break the grip, once it moves use the above. The amount of vag connectors where peeps either try to push down or pull up that tab & break it. The trick is to push home fully the connector before trying to release the tab

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13 hours ago, Adamw said:

 

Quick question : 

Is the car likely to throw engine lights with the MAF sensor unplugged? If so, is there anyway to switch this lights off again without a fault reader? 

Cheers 

 

Thanks again @motosparkz

Any ideas on this one in terms of if the car is likely to switch the engine light on running with the MAF unplugged? 

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@motosparkz

 

Well, it beat me again :angry:

Nothing seems to be budging !! 

Guess I'll just have to wait until my security torx are delivered, when I'll hopefully be able to remove the MAF (attached to the connector) and get a better angle on everything to remove... 

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4 minutes ago, Nobbie said:

Might be worth a spray with this sort of stuff overnight if you have it. Worther Rost Off Ice if the link fails.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261818137502 

 

Sounds good although I haven't got anything like that to hand currently 

The closest I have is good old WD40 and have been reluctant to spray that near the MAF? 

Will WD do any harm ? 

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2 hours ago, Adamw said:

Sounds good although I haven't got anything like that to hand currently 

The closest I have is good old WD40 and have been reluctant to spray that near the MAF? 

Will WD do any harm ? 

Should be fine as it won't get onto the MAF sensor as that should have an airtight seal, don't need loads of it, just around the screws.

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:thumbsup_anim:

It's not the screws that are the problem (yet).. waiting on the torx screws ordered for that  ...

Just taking about the electrical connector not moving at the mo. 

WD on the connector at all?? 

Otherwise I can wait until I have the Torx..

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1 minute ago, Adamw said:

 

:thumbsup_anim:

It's not the screws that are the problem (yet).. waiting on the torx screws ordered for that  ...

Just taking about the electrical connector not moving at the mo. 

WD on the connector at all?? 

Otherwise I can wait until I have the Torx..

I wouldn't bother spaying WD40 on the connector, it will just make it harder to get a decent purchase on it. Lots of wiggling in all directions and patience is probably the best approach.

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It won't throw up an engine check light. I got the light when my MAF went wonky. I took it off and a day and a few starts and stops later, light went out by itself! Good news!! :)

ps. I didn't know about the special technique for the maf electrical connector. I gripped it lengthways and gave it a good tug. It was stiff the first time but since the first removal, its come off easily. 

yes, I know there are some double entendres in the above. fill your boots! 

 

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2 minutes ago, Loz987 said:

It won't throw up an engine check light. I got the light when my MAF went wonky. I took it off and a day and a few starts and stops later, light went out by itself! Good news!! :)

Perfect thanks 

As soon as I can get the dam thing out I'll test :D:thumbsup_anim:

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oh, and looking at your Torx, I think you better have the dremmel handy. You;ll be cutting a lug for a flat bladed screwdriver I suspect. that metal looks like it will melt away. I hope for your sake I am wrong. One of mine looked like that and it was tommied. 

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11 hours ago, Loz987 said:

oh, and looking at your Torx, I think you better have the dremmel handy. You;ll be cutting a lug for a flat bladed screwdriver I suspect. that metal looks like it will melt away. I hope for your sake I am wrong. One of mine looked like that and it was tommied. 

Yes, that was my worry as well, hence the comment about some de-rusting spray. To maximise the chance of unscrewing the Torx screws you want to make sure that the Torx bit it fully engaged before attempting to unscrew. Try inserting the Torx bit in the screw head and tapping the end of the tool to loosen the rust/dirt in the screw head and then try to blow out this debris. A few more sharp taps to seat it properly and then start to turn and gently increase pressure whilst simultaneously tapping the end of the tool with a small hammer. If you're lucky, this will free it. Good luck ?

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Thanks for the tips :thumbsup_anim:

I have applied WD40 to the screws for the last 2 nights (whilst waiting for Torx) so hopefully this will help.

I'll let you know how I go.

Cheers

Adam 

 

 

 

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Well Torx arrived and managed to remove MAF without dremmel - result 

Looks like WD paid off !! 

Took the car for a quick spin without MAF connected and although only a quick drive, didn't experience any misfires so assume MAF is the problem. 

Replacemet MAF ordered so i'll report back on difference once fitted. 

Cheers for all yr help

:thumbsup_anim:

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There is a very interesting article on this month's on GT Porsche (November 2016)

A 997 turbo engine failure, OPC did not accept it (they blamed the driver) but according to the specialist who did new engine rebuilt, the coil packs failed due to fuel difference suddenly and one of the coils not being properly replaced or it was another disused brand I guess so this caused a massive problem and overheating on one of the cylinders and the engine literally blew itself on motorway.

They did a great new engine by the way, they claim it is now about 650 hp, fantastic looking car but it is interesting to read their point of view how the fuel difference can actually cause a massive problem on it.

 

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I changed my fuel when I read this and my check engine light came on after my first time out... 

i suspect it's the MAF so testing theory first. If my engine explodes tomorrow, I'll know different. Been meaning to explore the EV conversion anyway, so just elevates my position on the learning curve?

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Ok...

Fitted new MAF and misfire seems to be cured....

BUT :vmad:

Now the thing won't idle level. It seems to dip a little low then rev itself "a little" so it's just bouncing off the idle point...

I've found symptoms change slightly (more level) if AC/electrics running ...?

Any ideas at what could be causing this or  can the idle point be adjusted? 

Thanks in advance !!

 

 

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26 minutes ago, Adamw said:

Ok...

Fitted new MAF and misfire seems to be cured....

BUT :vmad:

Now the thing won't idle level. It seems to dip a little low then rev itself "a little" so it's just bouncing off the idle point...

I've found symptoms change slightly (more level) if AC/electrics running ...?

Any ideas at what could be causing this or  can the idle point be adjusted? 

Thanks in advance !!

 

 

Maybe you have an air leak, and the car is trying to adjust to it?  Check the pipes that you have disturbed.

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