Jason986S Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 Beru from ECP will do just fine (you'll get 20%+ discount using their regular codes too) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 13 minutes ago, Jason986S said: Beru from ECP will do just fine (you'll get 20%+ discount using their regular codes too) Thanks My view is to just replace the offending coil rather than all 6 as this will work out quite costly and the reader did only mention cylinder 5...? If the engine light was cleared, should that last error code still exist if an OBD is plugged in even if the engine light hasn't yet been re-triggered ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr96er Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 I thought Beru were oem? Or is that coils? ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason986S Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 1 hour ago, Loz987 said: I thought Beru were oem? Or is that coils? ? I think it is for plugs at least Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 13 hours ago, Adamw said: If the engine light was cleared, should that last error code still exist if an OBD is plugged in even if the engine light hasn't yet been re-triggered ? Any ideas on this one ? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T24RES Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 If the error was cleared with a device then it's gone. If a light has triggered and then gone out by itself it should be in the history. Depends sometimes on what you are using to check with. The generic readers are just that. If you feel it's not running weĺl get someone to check it on a Porsche specific reader, there are a list of durametric owners in a thread/sticky on the forum.Forum durametric owners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 49 minutes ago, T24RES said: If the error was cleared with a device then it's gone. If a light has triggered and then gone out by itself it should be in the history. Depends sometimes on what you are using to check with. The generic readers are just that. If you feel it's not running weĺl get someone to check it on a Porsche specific reader, there are a list of durametric owners in a thread/sticky on the forum.Forum durametric owners. Thanks mate No owners near Sussex .. Booked in at precision Porsche Sussex for a scan Mon Hopefully just a coil as suspected ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr96er Posted October 9, 2016 Report Share Posted October 9, 2016 Been running 98ron this weekend instead of the 95 I've been using. I confess, I never checked the fuel flap and now I have, I won't be short-changing my fuel system again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sential Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Have an 03 Boxster sport, I fuel up at Sainsburys and note that their more pricey unleaded is 97ron. Good enough I hope? Or better to find somewhere selling 98ron? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbie Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 6 hours ago, sential said: Have an 03 Boxster sport, I fuel up at Sainsburys and note that their more pricey unleaded is 97ron. Good enough I hope? Or better to find somewhere selling 98ron? I think that's near enough not to be worth bothering about the extra RON if the petrol station is convenient. I suspect most people run Boxsters on 95 Ron all the time with no issue, an extra couple of BHP is not going to be noticeable to a driver unless they already believe the fuel is better. Very much down to the placeabo effect IMHO on NA cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 On 07/10/2016 at 5:38 PM, Adamw said: Thanks mate No owners near Sussex .. Booked in at precision Porsche Sussex for a scan Mon Hopefully just a coil as suspected ! Well, been to have this checked out today and it's not the coils I suspected. All the coils were in tact. Suspected MAF issue causing misfires. I mentioned possibly cleaning the MAF but was told they've tried this on a number of occasions with no real success. They quoted £234 for a new MAF sensor then half hours labour to fit so inc VAT nearly £300... I've found Bosch MAF's on eBay for much less (from £117) and intend to try fitting myself to save on labour (If I can get to the engine - see thread in "technical section") These look right don't they? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300987442733 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272371904396 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381350926413 Precison did mention that the MAF would be the 1st port of call then maybe if no joy O2 sensors would be next which could be another £300+ fitted .. Least if I do the MAF myself it will soften the expense if O2's need doing ... Is it worth me changing the air filter whilst I'm in there? Guess this will do the job: https://www.design911.co.uk/mobile/#part;id=3781 Cheers Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr96er Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 23 hours ago, Nobbie said: .... Very much down to the placeabo effect IMHO on NA cars. These were exactly my thoughts... I think you will feel it on some turbo cars. Years ago I had a Volvo T5 which was very sensitive to fuel choices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbie Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 @Adamw this is where I start wondering what the point of paying 'specialist' labour rates is when they can't identify the fault and will just change stuff at your expense until something works - I can do that myself thanks ? Surely if it's the O2 sensors then there would be a code showing? Also, if it's the MAF then isn't the standard diagnostic test to take off the connector and force the engine into it's default fuel map. If the car runs fine, then it's time for a new MAF, if not then the problem lies elsewhere. If it does turn out to be the MAF, I think I'd have a go at cleaning it myself first, you can buy aerosol cans of specific cleaner for MAFs. Maybe an Air Oil Separator has let go in the past and mucked up the MAF. I wouldn't bother changing the air filter as long as the car is serviced to schedule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 1 hour ago, Nobbie said: @Adamw this is where I start wondering what the point of paying 'specialist' labour rates is when they can't identify the fault and will just change stuff at your expense until something works - I can do that myself thanks ? Surely if it's the O2 sensors then there would be a code showing? Also, if it's the MAF then isn't the standard diagnostic test to take off the connector and force the engine into it's default fuel map. If the car runs fine, then it's time for a new MAF, if not then the problem lies elsewhere. If it does turn out to be the MAF, I think I'd have a go at cleaning it myself first, you can buy aerosol cans of specific cleaner for MAFs. Maybe an Air Oil Separator has let go in the past and mucked up the MAF. I wouldn't bother changing the air filter as long as the car is serviced to schedule. @Nobbie... Thanks for that. Didn't know you could simply disconnect the MAF sensor and the car would run a default mode. If this is the case, then I'll try this 1st Not sure when the air filter was last changed as no mention in service history so may well just bung one in whilst I'm in there for cost of twenty quid or so.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menoporsche Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Is it the MAF or another sensor where Porsche seemed to fit several different ones, and you have to make sure you replace exactly the same one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr96er Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 1 hour ago, Menoporsche said: Is it the MAF or another sensor where Porsche seemed to fit several different ones, and you have to make sure you replace exactly the same one? Yes, it's the Maf. It has a unique part code. The 2.5 differs from the 3.2 etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 8 minutes ago, Loz987 said: Yes, it's the Maf. It has a unique part code. The 2.5 differs from the 3.2 etc... I believe this is right : 986.606.125.00 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300987442733 Anyone disagree ... ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menoporsche Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Not only the engine size but I think they changed every couple of years (possibly linked with the incremental power increases). Just do your homework before buying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 1 hour ago, Menoporsche said: Not only the engine size but I think they changed every couple of years (possibly linked with the incremental power increases). Just do your homework before buying. Ok thanks Ive found a 986.606.125.00 and a 986.606.125.01 so I guess the 1st thing to do is get in there, locate/remove existing to check number to see what's in there. Next run it unplugged to check if misfire/poor-running disappears. If so clean MAF, reconnect and test. Then order another once part number known if the MAF looks like the culprit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr96er Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Id run it unplugged before I removed it. If it's not the culprit, this will save you some time. If it is, you can take it out know it's worth the skinned knuckles.. Ps. Don't be too shocked of your security torx that hold it in round off under pressure. Dremmel will help cut a new surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menoporsche Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 30 minutes ago, Loz987 said: Id run it unplugged before I removed it. D'oh! Of course, this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Thanks mate !! Quick question : Is the car likely to throw engine lights with the MAF sensor unplugged? If so, is there anyway to switch this lights off again without a fault reader? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 2 hours ago, Loz987 said: Id run it unplugged before I removed it. If it's not the culprit, this will save you some time. If it is, you can take it out know it's worth the skinned knuckles.. Ps. Don't be too shocked of your security torx that hold it in round off under pressure. Dremmel will help cut a new surface. Ok, just been trying to "pull the plug" but achieving nothing but sore fingers.. Is there a nack ... it seems welded on!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motosparkz Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 There is ? As you look at the plug, there looks to be a little square of plastic that looks like you should press down, don't. What you need to do is push the whole connector on to the sensor as far as it will go, then just with your nail pull the square tab away from the sensor, same direction as the wiring harness, then whilst keeping pressure on the tab slide the whole thing back. There is a nack to it but one you figure it you can upset all the mechanics & vag people who end up breaking the tab off lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 7 hours ago, motosparkz said: There is ? As you look at the plug, there looks to be a little square of plastic that looks like you should press down, don't. What you need to do is push the whole connector on to the sensor as far as it will go, then just with your nail pull the square tab away from the sensor, same direction as the wiring harness, then whilst keeping pressure on the tab slide the whole thing back. There is a nack to it but one you figure it you can upset all the mechanics & vag people who end up breaking the tab off lol Here is a pic I took of the face nearest the wing and I assume this shows the little square of plastic you refer to? So; 1/push connecter fully down as far as I can. 2/try to pull little square lug back up (towards wiring) 3/whilst continuing to apply pressure on lug try to pull the connector upwards. Great thanks, I'll try this tonight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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