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Dooohhh, sheared a nipple.


el 3.2S

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Thought I would bleed the brakes on the Boxster today. Whilst the wheels were off I was also going to paint the hubs and spacers black. In addition as the car was up off the deck, I was going to change the transmission fluid - once my pump device arrives.

Car up and wheels off, that is the worst bit done - or so I thought.

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Brake bleeding going well, very green coloured coming out plus some air and possible water from the fronts.

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Old stuff looks green?

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Had a look at far side of front disks and saw both had a section which was kind of worn away and rusted? Could this have been caused by pads which were too worn out? Perhaps previous owner changed them too late? Below is a picture of front disk far side - the bit you do not normally see. Front sides are perfect.

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I completed the brake bleeding and observed that the outer bleed valves tended to be tighter than the ones on the inside. Not sure why that would be? As I had fluid spare, I decided to go back to the left rear as the outer valve had been extermely tight and the flow out was very slow. Disaster then struck as the valve sheared off due to me using too much force trying to open it further than had been possible earlier.

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Would not be so bad, but the valve is partly open, so leaking fluid. Also noticed both wheel arches on left side are sprayed with white paint, which was a bit annoying, must have hit some newly painted lines recently.

I did some googling about what to do about the sheared valve and got the dremel out and tried to cut a notch in what was left of it and attempt to get a large screwsriver on it. This failed. I then got my unused easy out kit and had a go with this. This messed things up even more, as the easy out sheared off in the hole, seems like it was made of cheese. No amount of drilling would shift it. Went back to the dremel to make a bigger notch and succeeded in messing up the caliper a bit lol.

How it is now.

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I think I need to stop and step away from my power tools.

Anyone had this problem and or suggest best way to proceed?

 

 

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The easy answer is call out a thread doctor type service. Bit hard in remote Spain perhaps. 

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I always remember heat treatment to make the metal expand and hopefully break the grip between caliper and nipple. Not sure of the implications of a blow torch and brake fluid though. But if you get the caliper off and heat it, it's in an easier position to attempt to rotate the nipple with a hammer and dot punch. Finally I have an "odd" set of driver bits which includes a "toasting fork" option, i.e. two prongs, that might go into either side of the nipple. But you need to get it rotating with more torque first, they'd just shear otherwise.

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A decent traditional garage will be able to drill it out and helicoil or timesert it. 

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10 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

I always remember heat treatment to make the metal expand and hopefully break the grip between caliper and nipple. Not sure of the implications of a blow torch and brake fluid though. But if you get the caliper off and heat it, it's in an easier position to attempt to rotate the nipple with a hammer and dot punch. Finally I have an "odd" set of driver bits which includes a "toasting fork" option, i.e. two prongs, that might go into either side of the nipple. But you need to get it rotating with more torque first, they'd just shear otherwise.

Yes, I saw plenty of heat being applied on youtube videos. I do not have access to any, maybe just as well, as have messed up enough as it is!:blink:

4 minutes ago, Jason986S said:

What a pain! 

I know, worst bit is, I was finished the job and went back to apply a "finishing touch", as it were:stickprod:

1 minute ago, edc said:

A decent traditional garage will be able to drill it out and helicoil or timesert it. 

Sounds good, will attempt to remove the caliper tomorrow and leave it to the experts.

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Heat would have been my only suggestion also. I bought a gas butane/propane type torch for such jobs. Its fixable if removed and sent off.

Any exchange type service for the calipers in Spain? You buy the caliper then refund part cost when they receive your old one?

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19 minutes ago, Toeside said:

Heat would have been my only suggestion also. I bought a gas butane/propane type torch for such jobs. Its fixable if removed and sent off.

Any exchange type service for the calipers in Spain? You buy the caliper then refund part cost when they receive your old one?

Would be a great idea but Spain is light years behind when it comes to these kind of things. From what I have seen in my 3 years of Boxster ownership here is you have the Porsche dealer and that is it - there is no other help!

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Can’t believe that, even Portugal has specialists. Did you get on a Spanish site and ask? And we know you live on the Costa del Denero Lavado, it must be awash with Porsches :D

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When driving round Oviedo and Braganca I saw a few backstreet style mechanics and tyre places. They look like the sort of places that could do these mechanical jobs. 

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44 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Can’t believe that, even Portugal has specialists. Did you get on a Spanish site and ask? And we know you live on the Costa del Denero Lavado, it must be awash with Porsches :D

I think Portugal is ahead of Spain in many ways. I have yet to find a specialist in my area. There are plenty Porsches in the coastal strip from say Sotogrande to Fuengirola. I am more towards Malaga and inland in a more "Spanish" area (so less Porshes).

37 minutes ago, edc said:

When driving round Oviedo and Braganca I saw a few backstreet style mechanics and tyre places. They look like the sort of places that could do these mechanical jobs. 

Regarding the caliper, think I should hopefully find a local garage who can do it.

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9 hours ago, el 3.2S said:

I think Portugal is ahead of Spain in many ways. I have yet to find a specialist in my area. There are plenty Porsches in the coastal strip from say Sotogrande to Fuengirola. I am more towards Malaga and inland in a more "Spanish" area (so less Porshes).

Regarding the caliper, think I should hopefully find a local garage who can do it.

You could always get a replacement caliper from. EBay, swap it over and get your old one repaired at your leisure.

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2 hours ago, CarlM said:

You could always get a replacement caliper from. EBay, swap it over and get your old one repaired at your leisure.

Yes, have considered that as an option. In no great hurry though and car was barely being used, due to coolant tank leaking and "MOT" being out. Delivered the caliper to my local garage. They reckoned they could sort it, despite initial somewhat negative reaction:o.

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That disc ring is typically caused by wear the pad and disc are not coming into contact. It then corrodes due to road debris and because the pad is not cleaning it up.

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The disc looks heavily worn and lipped anyway (from that photo) are they within spec tolerance for thickness on the thinnest parts? 

It’s new discs time anyway looking at the scoring but would be good to know if they were dead anyway.

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55 minutes ago, edc said:

That disc ring is typically caused by wear the pad and disc are not coming into contact. It then corrodes due to road debris and because the pad is not cleaning it up.

Ok thanks, must have been worn pads with previous owner. Pads that have been in it since I bought it are still in great shape and not showing any unusual wear despite this thing with the disc.

33 minutes ago, Jason986S said:

The disc looks heavily worn and lipped anyway (from that photo) are they within spec tolerance for thickness on the thinnest parts? 

It’s new discs time anyway looking at the scoring but would be good to know if they were dead anyway.

There is a slight lip on them, not too bad though. Rough caliper measurement in multiple places shows them to be about 24mm thick. Just checked Pelican Parts online and minimum thickness is given as 18,6mm. I will stick with them for now as brakes work as they should and no strange noises.

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That disk is way past the allowable wear! It should have been replaced a long time ago. Someone isn't taking very good care of the car.

The best place to take the caliper to is a brake shop. They must have those in Portugal!

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32 minutes ago, el 3.2S said:

Ok thanks, must have been worn pads with previous owner. Pads that have been in it since I bought it are still in great shape and not showing any unusual wear despite this thing with the disc.

There is a slight lip on them, not too bad though. Rough caliper measurement in multiple places shows them to be about 24mm thick. Just checked Pelican Parts online and minimum thickness is given as 18,6mm. I will stick with them for now as brakes work as they should and no strange noises.

new front discs are 28mm thick with a minimum wear limit of 26mm(-2mm)....those ones on your car are scrap.

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5 minutes ago, banjo1 said:

new front discs are 28mm thick with a minimum wear limit of 26mm(-2mm)....those ones on your car are scrap.

These are rear discs on my car. Not especially interested in new thickness though. The minimum thickness is far more interesting to me but thanks for helpful reply:D

 

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17 minutes ago, Anker BS said:

The best place to take the caliper to is a brake shop. They must have those in Portugal!

They do but he's 8 hours' drive away in Spain :)

MA? Aren't you a bit cold at the moment? :o

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1 minute ago, el 3.2S said:

These are rear discs

ok...you say front discs above..

im pretty sure the rear discs  are 24mm new(22mm worn)so not sure how youve got a rear disc with 24mm thickness in that condition...

 

 

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