JoeyH Posted August 11, 2018 Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 so , picked up my 2000 S from a dealer 2 weeks ago today, around 700 miles covered so far, some issues needed to be resolved but nothing I would say is unreasonable on an 18 year old car. first job I did on realising the temp gauge was a bit tempermental was to get it across my laptop and check the ''actual'' temps, highest registered was 216.5 on a very hot day , fans were kicking in at 212f (100C) or so and the car was cooling back down, however there was coolant loss..Only small but any is bad as I assumed the system wasn't pressurising. job 1) bumper off, radiators and condensers inpsected and cleaned, all seemed fine, no leaks evident..very easy job, well worth my time and effort as a small bag of compost and dead leaves were removed, also aircon recharged, Icy cold! job 2) replaced rad cap as a starting point for coolant loss, it was a 00 cap so original to the car, assumed ( correctly) it wasn't working as it should, condensation on the boot lid told it was venting ( probably early) this had the effect of moving the leak from the rad cap to the expansion tank. Inspection mirrors out and a crack was obvious on the underside of the tank, and the car leaked after key off from the rear wheel arch. which brings me to job 3.. expansion tank change, this is a PIG, but do-able with patience , coffee breaks and a helper, I used the remote hose clamp pliers for the engine side hoses and when refitting used jubillee type clamps, whomever designe this affair needs to be taken to one side an given a stiff talking too ! The replacement tank came from Steve Strange and is in PERFECT condition, as white as the driven snow. and only £ 56...after the job was done I topped up the coolant and lifted the bleed valve , This bleed valve is a fantastic design as it's effectively a Thermostat Bypass switch, no need to fit a lower temp stat at all, run with this open and the coolant is circulating through the entire system from Key on. I would say given the amount of stress the system could be under during city driving in the summer it may be a good idea for town dwellers to lift the bleed valve for the summer months, I will be doing this myself and popping it back down when it cools down weather wise. job 4 , service, OIl and filter, air filter, pollen filter, MAF clean ( after sudden loss of power after ''extreme provocation'' ) The service was a doddle , hats of to Porsche here for making things easy, obvious the design was really thought out, ( unlike the Alfa's I own where an oil change is a major affair) whole lot done in under an hour, used Gulf Competiton Oil and flushed the engine as well. all parts from ECP including oil for £60. job 5) after graphing the MAF on my mates diagnostic machine and getting a code ( P1508) It was obviuos the MAF was goosed, after some research I ordered a Bremi one from ECP at just £67 , I found ot that Bremi make some Bosch stuff under licence and are OE suppliers for Porsche ,VAG and Mercedes Benz, fitted the MAF this morning and went for a ''Blat'' Its different car! i cannot provoke any untoward behaviour from it and the car just feels more responsve and ''alive'' Jobs still to do the Clutch pedal was not returning all the way, everytime, so I bled it, and all good , but this is indicative of either slave or master on the way out so will do those at some point, not a fan of the slave cylinder position but the price you pay for such a well balanced car. and the rear boot remote opening doesn't work, the key flashes, I can hear the solenoid in the boot actuate, I suspect it's become disconnected to whatever Rod or cable its attached by the motor too so wll fix this at some point. Other than that it all works! and goes really well. on the plus side when i had the car on my mates ramp I had a good look and it seems the P/O fitted eibach anti roll bars and springs as well as Bilstein shocks, which explains why the thing handles like its on rails. other little jobs have been fitting a new hood tensioning cable, and an O/S indicator due to the metal tang having rusted and snapped. all the above jobs have been done for around £300 ,proving that you can do most of the jobs on these cars yourself given the time and inclination... some of the Porsche indies i have spoken too have quoted stupid prices for things, at the end of the day it's still just a car and I see no justification for the pricing of some of these specialists.. as for my thoughts on the car ? well, it's a fantastic machine, and handles beautifully, the engine is torquey, gearbox ratios mean you can waft around at low revs with no drama or drop a cog and enjoy the torque and exhaust note... Brembo's are great, it stops on a dime and is very confidence inspiring, the gearchange is however clunky and I have read a short shifter or gear linkage adjustment might help ( just bought the tool) but TBH I prefer a sixer with lift reverse rather than the reverse gear being over by 1st.. It's just all a bit agricultural on the slickness of the changes but you can't have everything, I'm also not loving the ''bumper car'' accelerator as i am used to something more akin to race pedals, Italian cars tend to have them smaller and closer together , and as I am 5ft8 with size 7's this suited..the boxtsers flat affair is a bit unwieldy at the moment , but I will get used to it. So its fair to say I am not charmed just yet despite it's obvious handling ability and torquey lump, and ease of maintenance, at the moment I still miss the peaky howl of my Busso, whose character , engine note and creamy smooth delivery just out do the Boxster If I am honest...The boxster is a better chassis though,more solid and planted the 916 Alfa was and torquier by some margin. swings and roundabouts..lets see how I feel in a month or so! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc Posted August 11, 2018 Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 I'm a similar frame to you and have some alu pedals. Work great for heel and toe. Pics in my 550 running report. If you want a tad extra sound a Carnewal of pipe bypass or the eBay stainless manifolds change the tone slightly too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulQ Posted August 11, 2018 Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Good work, and yes these things can be run on a reasonable budget if you do all or most of the work yourself and shop around for parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludacris Posted August 11, 2018 Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Excellent post, well done and thanks for all the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDF1965 Posted August 11, 2018 Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Good write up, same age as my S, we have also completed similar miles since purchase. No leaks however most annoying issue was a ‘shimmy’ at motorway speeds, despite having wheels balanced. Bit the bullet and had them re-done at a place that has a Hunter road force balancing system, 1.5 hours later sorted and shimmy gone. Looking to do clutch master and slave cylinders soon, had a non returning pedal after car was stood for a few days, since driving again no repeat... then I have central locking to investigate. All in all for an 18 year old car not at all bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el 3.2S Posted August 11, 2018 Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Good work. I had the same sequence of events recently as you did - coolant cap change followed by coolant tank leak, followed by awkward job changing said coolant tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyH Posted August 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Seems the little jobs are common and indicative of our cars ages... Looking forward to an enjoyable year or two as a Porsche owner before deciding whether to go newer with another boxster or even a Cayman ... Or going back to Italian with either a Maserati Granturismo or 4200. If the new Alfa GTV planned is even half as good as the initial renderings it's a given that's what I'll buy. Or I could go completely mad and get a 4C...easy 4cyl maintenance as it's basically a giulietta QV engine. Either way all good, always wanted a Porsche and it is nice to finally tick that particular box.. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menoporsche Posted August 12, 2018 Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 A Porsche club member brought his 4C to a meeting, I think it had the least luggage space of any car I’ve seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc Posted August 12, 2018 Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 Alfa 4C nice but 4 cylinder, boo, and Exige V6 is similarly priced ... I've been watching these for the past couple of years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyH Posted August 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 I'm an Alfa nut really so the Lotus despite being a great car wouldn't figure vs the 4C.. Jamie porter used to look after one of my Alfa's and he does a few choice mods for the 4C that really bring it alive. 4 cyl doesn't bother me as the power to weight on those cars is pretty impressive and I like the historic reference to the 1750 displacement of the 105 series.. Lottery win and it's an 8C though..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the baron Posted August 12, 2018 Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 Great intro post, well,done for having a go at the jobs and succeeding, many haven’t on the expansion tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Hemming Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Good work ? How many miles has your car done, thinking about winter projects and one is the expansion tank as a preventative measure, my car has 37k miles, but is still a 2001. I replaced the alternator over Easter, even with low miles, the usual problems catch up with age! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyH Posted August 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2018 OK, update ! today I tackled the slave cylinder, reverse light witch and fuel filter...the car has been suffering from sudden loss of power at ''hoon'' rpm...on occasion, very intermittent, but inconvenient.. I have driven 1k in it and it's only happened twice, so its very intermittent. anyway. Now I know why...........the fuel filter was the original unit! the car has 130k on it, and the fuel filter was an 01 designation part which means its been in at least 15 years and the majority of the cars miles, also plugged in and cleared the pending codes that where there due to the MAF change recently ...between that filter and the banjaxed maf it.s no sureprise the car threw a wobbler at 7k rpm. reverse light now works clutch pedal feels fantastic and all gears are now a bit easier to get too, first and reverse were often a bit of a struggle but now great!, I have purchased the gear linkage alignment tool so will do that over the weekend. too early to say whether I have cured the sudden loss of power issue but the car idles better and just sounds like a much happier engine, beans were given after the work and no sign of any hesitation, so I am cautiously confident. so since purchase expansion tank all filters new maf oil service slave cylinder reverse light switch bumpers off and condensers and rads checked aircon regas thorough valet The result of all this work is that I have a fantastic boxster, in whcih everything no works ( apart form the rear remote boot unlock) jobs to do... rear boot motor and cable as the rear boot doesn't unlock remotely..bowden cable broken, both key and lock work. can't quite see how to do it, but i'll work it out, I usually do! and gear linkage alignement. once those two jobs are done its just drive and enjoy.. P.S I think slave cylinder was a worse job than the expansion tank, just me but I know whcih one I would rather tackle again from a labour perspective. PPS, the shocker is the car has a FPSH up to 105k and then a very respected specialist up to 127k when the last service was done before I got it.. I do not know how official porsche dealers, or specialists can miss as something as fundamental as a fuel filter for 127k.. especially as having spoken to someone there were ''known issues with the sudden loss of power'' seems a guitarist with a few spanners and a laptop has got to the bottom of what was really a very simple problem, fuel supply under load due to a 15 year old filter. attached a pic...she aint bad for 18..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludacris Posted August 17, 2018 Report Share Posted August 17, 2018 Great work, Joey! What you gonna do once all the job’s are done, apart from drive? You’re bound to get itchy feet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyH Posted August 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2018 Just now, Ludacris said: Great work, Joey! What you gonna do once all the job’s are done, apart from drive? You’re bound to get itchy feet. you are not wrong! I think i may keep it for the winter and spring, fresh MOT, get it looking great, and then sell on or part ex and replace with a Cayman ( ''S'' if funds allow) It will have 140k on it by then , but any car I have owned will be better when it leaves my possesion that it was when it arrived..someone will get a reliable car next spring/ early summer. always been more of a coupe man, convertibles are fun, but I can't really take then ''too'' seriously, where as the hard top version of any convertible car has stiffer chassis and as a result better handling.. I thought this car was a good introduction to Porsche ownership, and a way to get accustomed to working on mid engined cars as well as gettting a feel for runnin costs , which to be fair are about the same as my GTV was. I am warming to it, just broken the 1k mileage mark this week after a month of ownership ( not usual mileage I must say normally less ) another 1k or so without issues and I will trust the car... however unlike my GTV I don't find myself going out to just drive it...maybe that will change in the coming weeks.. keep you all posted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddy555 Posted August 17, 2018 Report Share Posted August 17, 2018 How difficult was the fuel filter change? It's on my to do list, but I've been putting it off due to not wanting to get covered in fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyH Posted August 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2018 Easy... Plenty of plus gas for rusted undertray nuts and you will be fine. Easier on a ramp but doable with axle stands. Just make sure car is secure. Obviously hand brake and leaving in gear won't work .. So chocks or drive up on to some ramps or get it in the air. Actually not a hard job though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddy555 Posted August 17, 2018 Report Share Posted August 17, 2018 Cheers, I'll try and get it done this weekend then. (What I wouldn't give for a 2 post lift - I can dream) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyH Posted August 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Further update, car was taken down the A3 to the Hindhead tunnel this morning, ( we'd run out of cat food ) and on that drive was thoroughly ''provoked'' I can definitively say the loss of power under acceleration is cured... word to the wise, anyone with an S, should look at doing the fuel filter as I think many specialists and porsche dealers just assume the S models ahve in tank filters and they get left...wouldn't surpise me if quite a few more are running 60k + and 10-15 year old filters.. anyway cats fed, time to go get my kayak out and get on the river..( before the Mrs wakes up and finds ''jobs'' for me to do ) cheers Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbie Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 25 minutes ago, JoeyH said: Further update, car was taken down the A3 to the Hindhead tunnel this morning, ( we'd run out of cat food ) and on that drive was thoroughly ''provoked'' I can definitively say the loss of power under acceleration is cured... word to the wise, anyone with an S, should look at doing the fuel filter as I think many specialists and porsche dealers just assume the S models ahve in tank filters and they get left...wouldn't surpise me if quite a few more are running 60k + and 10-15 year old filters.. anyway cats fed, time to go get my kayak out and get on the river..( before the Mrs wakes up and finds ''jobs'' for me to do ) cheers Joe I think you're right about many running on old filters, mine was very well looked after by PO, but looked like fuel filter had only been changed once in 2006, despite being scheduled every 48k. I think they get forgotten as the later cars have it integrated in the fuel tank and are not replaceable. heres mine at 140k 13 hours ago, Eddy555 said: Cheers, I'll try and get it done this weekend then. (What I wouldn't give for a 2 post lift - I can dream) I think Joey must be more skilled than me, I got covered in petrol, probably just needed to be better prepared with a small container to catch the petrol once you disconnect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyH Posted August 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 good work, I got covered In carp as well...so no better than I did ! if anything like my experience then expect easier starting,smoother idle, and an overall improvement in performance. I also did a dose of injector cleaner as well on a half tank of 99 ron, just to optimise the flushing of the system and clean any residual stuff though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyH Posted August 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 and another update.. just went down to have a look at the rear lid solenoid replacement.. this will be the easiest job you ever do on your boxster! the solenoid motor is actually a push fit behind the metal bracket that runs under the lock. so instructions for anyone wishing to do it, Mods maybe ,make it a sticky and I will add pics. tools needed , one phillips head screwdriver and one flat head screwdriver. step one ) open boot , undo the 2 phillips head screws on the lock mechanism cover, pull that away, then prise out the boot carpet trim, lift back until you can clearly see the bowden cables ( one manual and one solenoid ) 2) prise off the white plastic sleeve attached to the lock that the solenoid motor bowden cable goes through. 3)t here is a small metal clip holding the bowden cables onto the lock mechanism, prise it off carefully and gently with the flat head screw driver. then slide the cables off. 4) now have a look to the left of the lock mechanism and down, there are two electrical connections, one 5 pin and one two, disconnect both, this will facilitate the removal of the old solenoid. 5) now reach your hand throught the end of the bracket and you will feel the foam around the solenoid motor, its push fit and will with some manipulation just pull straight out of the end, just as it comes out you will see the 2 pin connector , release and remove the whole unit. 6) place the new motor in the right orientation but don't push it in just yet, re connect the 2 pin on the connector and both the 5 and 2 pin you had disconnected to remove the old motor. 7) test before re-assembly, don't forget its a long push on the key fob, assuming it's all good then onto the next bit. 8 ) push the new motor home and use either a hook tool or a magnetic tool to fish the cable up and into position , slip the cable onto the lock mechanism and replace the metal clip. 9 ) you may have to fiddle with the position of the motor to get the right length on the cable. 10 ) refit plastic lock cover and boot carpet and make a cup of tea ? now you can smugly enjoy remote boot opening the next time you go to the shops..! FYI when I enquired about this at Porsche dealer the solenoid itself was nearly £100, fitting was an hours labour ( why ?) meaning this simple job would have cost around £200+vat.. I got the solenoid from Mr strange for £15 and fitting took 20mins ( without instructions and including how to do it thinking time ) definitely have a go at this if you have lost rear lid remote and its not the key, relays, fuses etc.. a considerable saving I am sure you will agree, even if you are loaded there must be something better to spend £200 on? best Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxob Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 5 hours ago, JoeyH said: and another update.. just went down to have a look at the rear lid solenoid replacement.. this will be the easiest job you ever do on your boxster! the solenoid motor is actually a push fit behind the metal bracket that runs under the lock. so instructions for anyone wishing to do it, Mods maybe ,make it a sticky and I will add pics. tools needed , one phillips head screwdriver and one flat head screwdriver. step one ) open boot , undo the 2 phillips head screws on the lock mechanism cover, pull that away, then prise out the boot carpet trim, lift back until you can clearly see the bowden cables ( one manual and one solenoid ) 2) prise off the white plastic sleeve attached to the lock that the solenoid motor bowden cable goes through. 3)t here is a small metal clip holding the bowden cables onto the lock mechanism, prise it off carefully and gently with the flat head screw driver. then slide the cables off. 4) now have a look to the left of the lock mechanism and down, there are two electrical connections, one 5 pin and one two, disconnect both, this will facilitate the removal of the old solenoid. 5) now reach your hand throught the end of the bracket and you will feel the foam around the solenoid motor, its push fit and will with some manipulation just pull straight out of the end, just as it comes out you will see the 2 pin connector , release and remove the whole unit. 6) place the new motor in the right orientation but don't push it in just yet, re connect the 2 pin on the connector and both the 5 and 2 pin you had disconnected to remove the old motor. 7) test before re-assembly, don't forget its a long push on the key fob, assuming it's all good then onto the next bit. 8 ) push the new motor home and use either a hook tool or a magnetic tool to fish the cable up and into position , slip the cable onto the lock mechanism and replace the metal clip. 9 ) you may have to fiddle with the position of the motor to get the right length on the cable. 10 ) refit plastic lock cover and boot carpet and make a cup of tea ? now you can smugly enjoy remote boot opening the next time you go to the shops..! FYI when I enquired about this at Porsche dealer the solenoid itself was nearly £100, fitting was an hours labour ( why ?) meaning this simple job would have cost around £200+vat.. I got the solenoid from Mr strange for £15 and fitting took 20mins ( without instructions and including how to do it thinking time ) definitely have a go at this if you have lost rear lid remote and its not the key, relays, fuses etc.. a considerable saving I am sure you will agree, even if you are loaded there must be something better to spend £200 on? best Joe We have a "How to" forum where this will be at home and not lost. Copy and paste in a new thread in the forum. Well done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyH Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Ok, will do...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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