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Best oil grade


pedro43

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Hi everyone I’m looking for recommendations for best oil grade ie 5w/40 or 0w/40 for my car which is high mileage and has noises tappets when warm. I’ve given it a engine flush oil and filter used 0w40 Mobil didn’t make any difference 

 

many thanks Peter 

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53 minutes ago, Simon. said:

I thought Mobil 1 0w/40 was the OEM oil, but many use 5w/40 as we don't need the extreme cold weather protection of Central Europe/alpine regions.

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I was told to use a mineral oil rather than synthetic to help with things like tappy engines when warm (as my 986 also does the same) by my indy; apparently this is better than fully synthetic. I'm not sure on the theory behind it but he's serviced more cars than me!

Also, Opie Oils are doing a 15% off sale on 5W-40 oils until midday tomorrow. The code is on their webpage, but it's 5W40WINNER. :) 

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Oil opinions are like ar*eholes - everyone has one.

However, I can't go along with the mineral oil recommendation.  Everything I have ever read suggests you go for the best fully synthetic triple ester based stuff as it offers by far the best protection when and where it counts - like start up and at the cylinder wall.  Hartech recommend the slightly thicker weight oils as a precaution and while I haven't seen it, I can't help thinking that they would also say that the better the oil (and more frequently changed) the more you decrease the risk of bore scoring and other lube related issues.

My money is on Millers Nanodrive 5W40, but I have used Silkolene and Motul equivalents in the past.  Example of how good these oils are - I saw oil get so hot (in a race 930 where the fan belt broke mid race), that the oil cooler melted in the pits.  Engine stripped and no wear or damage at all using best Motul fully synthetic.  These expensive super oils are awesome.

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Whether 0W-40 or 5W-40, does not the oil have to have Porsche A40 approval ? 

And if it does have this specification, can it not be any good make of oil - Mobil, Castrol, Fuchs, Shell, other...?

I'm about do carry out an interim (12 month) oil / filter change on my 2.9. It's under Porsche warranty so the specialist quiet rightly used genuine parts including Mobil 0W-40; otherwise they use 5W-40 for cars not under warranty.

I'm thinking of sticking with 0W as my car is a low miler and doesn't get driven much, so can sound a little tappety on cold start up if it has been left parked for a while where the lower viscosity of 0W might be helpful. 

 

 

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Don't know how Porsche A40 approval compares to VW's but many 5w40 grade oils have it, even the cheaper stuff like Triple QX from Euro Car Parts, Mannol Extreme and others. 

For the OP changing from a 0w40 to a 5w40 probably won't help, as the viscosity of both when hot will be the same. 

 

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triple QX is decent oil, I have used for about 5 years in everything, the price means I can justify halving the intervals on all of our vehicles.

 

the scuttlebut is it's manufactured by shell anyway..

 

Regardless of who it is that makes it, I know this... 

Twin spark engines are very sensitive to oil grade/type/quality and I have 2 currently running with triple QX, and have run several others with no negative consequences.

 

engines have been nice and quiet, no tappety noises or unacceptable oil consumption on either of my current two TS engines, my Busso's ran on it and seemed to like it, and my previous GT derv used it and My wife's 14 plate TT..both the Twinnies use about half a litre every thousand miles ( normal for a TS engine) the Wifes TT  1.8 TFSI uses about the same ( has from purchase) The Busso used almost none, and the box uses about 250ml per 1000 miles on the previous oil ( no idea what it was as P/O serviced it last)

and yesterday the Box got 8.75 litres of it after an engine flush and is running fine..( as one would expect) I will keep an eye on consumption to see if the box is happy , but at less than £25 for 10 litres with a discount code I can drop it in a month if the box doesn't like it ( I very much doubt it will be a issue) and put something else in.

 

its up to spec for the box ( acea 3) and the correct grade ( 5w40) and as stated already in this post I would rather use a less expensive oil, provided it is the correct spec and grade and change it more often.

your car your choice but fresh oil has got to be better than expensive oil you have to run for longer because an oil change costs £90.

 

only an opinion of course.

 

i'll let you know if my car blows up in the meantime... 

(-:

 

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7 minutes ago, JoeyH said:

Fresh oil has got to be better than expensive oil you have to run for longer because an oil change costs £90.

I do 6 monthly oil changes, so the posch triple ester stuff like Motul 300v, Fuchs Titan Pro Race etc would get a bit expensive on a Boxster..... 

I normally use Fuchs Titan Supersyn, or Unipart Pro S 400 (same oil) as its good value, but looking at the data sheets its no different then the Triple QX stuff and has the same approvals. 

Doubt many on here would put it in their Porsche though........ 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, PaulQ said:

I do 6 monthly oil changes, so the posch triple ester stuff like Motul 300v, Fuchs Titan Pro Race etc would get a bit expensive on a Boxster..... 

I normally use Fuchs Titan Supersyn, or Unipart Pro S 400 (same oil) as its good value, but looking at the data sheets its no different then the Triple QX stuff and has the same approvals. 

Doubt many on here would put it in their Porsche though........ 

 

 

I hear you Paul, seems we both have a sensible approach to car maintenance.

 

as you know, suck,squeeze,bang,blow...they all do much the same, I think the engineering tolerances on modern engines are all much of a muchness, and with the 986's especially, triple qx is going to be as good as if not better than what Porsche specified for these M96 engines over 20 years ago.

 

and I think thes boxer engines are pretty robust.

 

there are some caveats to the oil thing, but most don't apply to this generation of engines, especially not for naturally aspirated and non direct injection applications,

 

Direct injection requires a different approach sometimes because you can get the petrol contaminating the oil and turbos also require a bit of thought,as the engine oil lubricates the Tubby and that thing is spinning at 130,00- rpm.

 

so for example if the wifes TFSI becomes a drinker ( and they are known for it) then the first thing to do after Audi's crankcase breather modification is to go for a slightly thicker oil, like a 5/50 or something, and on occason with some of my cars I have used 10/60 ( in fact Alfa recommended this on early JTS engines)

 

the whole Oil and tyre thing is nothing but snobbery imho as long as it's not ling long tyres and the very cheapest ebay oil then it's generally ok,

 

FWIW I have not exclusively used triple QX ,I tend to buy whatever is the best deal at the time, so sometimes it's petronus, Fuchs or Gulf competition, Castrol etc etc,however my point is I have noticed zero difference between the ''branded oils'' in terms of consumption or engine noise..and these days mid range tyres are going to be better than what porsche OE 20 years ago.

 

in fact Nexen (which i have on my box rears) are now Porsche OE and at £144 for the rear axle they are doing a better job than the down ot 3mm  Pirelli's that were on there.

 

we each make our own choices, and if my car was to lunch it's engine, it would be more to do with the 130k miles already on it than my choice of a correct spec oil that just happens to be a bit cheaper than a branded oil, which btw is the price it is to fund their advertising budget.

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horses for courses and apple and oranges and all that........... but, I just came out of a daily driver audi a4 1.8t petrol - bought with 4K miles at a year old, traded it 15 years later with 180k on it - ran it to the service indicator / schedule as per the spec for oil and frequency of changes. Yes - at the end, it had a bit of an oil thirst - diagnosed as valve seals - but I am convinced that I will "do what they say" and not 2nd guess the oil.

Just my view of things.

 

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On 10/12/2018 at 5:35 PM, PaulQ said:

I do 6 monthly oil changes, so the posch triple ester stuff like Motul 300v, Fuchs Titan Pro Race etc would get a bit expensive on a Boxster..... 

I normally use Fuchs Titan Supersyn, or Unipart Pro S 400 (same oil) as its good value, but looking at the data sheets its no different then the Triple QX stuff and has the same approvals. 

Doubt many on here would put it in their Porsche though........ 

 

 

I use fuchs supersyn and also used total energy 9000

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What I am hearing is a little bit of  justification for using "cheap" oil by changing it every 6 months :) .  Personally, I would go the other way and use the best triple ester based oils and change every 12 months, which is still only 5000 miles for me.  When bore scoring is a known issue, it just seems sensible to be a little cautious on that critical boundary layer of protection.

That is of course my justification - I am not saying I am better or worse than other posters.

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This ^^^^

It's a bit of a lottery at the end of the day, but I'd rather spend an extra 20 quid than think I was possibly compromising on quality. 

I'd prefer to stick to 0-40W(or based on recent reading 5/40W) and stick to the schedule as a minimum or an extra 12 month oli and filter change. 

Based on recent articles it seems its just as important to keep the oil level at the highest mark and give it 'the beans' to get the oil splashed about in the engine 

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3 hours ago, 911-32 said:

What I am hearing is a little bit of  justification for using "cheap" oil by changing it every 6 months :) .  Personally, I would go the other way and use the best triple ester based oils and change every 12 months

Based on my usage, I wouldnt leave anything in there for 12 months :)

 

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