red rocket Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 1 minute ago, BBB said: I’ve just received my B4s for the front and they’re the correct model number according to Bilstein’s catalogue. I don’t suppose you measured the rod length did you @red rocket? I’m trying to anticipate problems before I start taking things apart. Everything except the piston length measured the same as the ones removed from the car. The piston length was approx 4cm shorter and couldn't be extended manually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 Yeh, I saw that from the pictures above, but was hoping you had an absolute measurement of your B4 so I can compare the length to mine before I start the strip down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red rocket Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 2 minutes ago, BBB said: Yeh, I saw that from the pictures above, but was hoping you had an absolute measurement of your B4 so I can compare the length to mine before I start the strip down. No, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 No worries. I’ll measure mine and post it for future reference. The damper rod moves freely but I’m worried they will be short, like yours and give me grief. I guess I’ll find out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 For future reference, mine are Bilstein B4, from design911, model number 22-147578. The length of the visible damper rod, at rest, before fitting is 18cm to the tip of the threaded portion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick997 Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 On 6/24/2021 at 9:23 AM, BBB said: For future reference, mine are Bilstein B4, from design911, model number 22-147578. The length of the visible damper rod, at rest, before fitting is 18cm to the tip of the threaded portion. Did you have any problems fitting your springs or was it easy like others have reported? I think I need to do this to my car, getting a loud clonk from drivers side when going over speed bumps and suspect the front strut mount is the cause, was noted by RPM Technik last autumn that they would need seeing to in due course. Easy DIY job as YouTube suggests it could be or lots to catch me out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 @nick997, I’m still gathering both parts and courage, so not done yet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 I've done a damper change on my 986, main thing to allow is time. You are also likely to find some or all 4 drop links are seized into the uprights and the old damper can be a bit of a pig to get out of the upright. Lots of even taps on a block of wood working around the casting where the damper fits in. Prep it all with lots of Plus Gas or similar. Go to the. 'What Have You Done to your 986' thread page 173 to look up what it took to do mine. @bally4563 can add some specific 987 advice but both cars are very similar with lots of shared parts. The eccentric bolts on the rear can seize into the bushes of the coffin arms and toe links too. Don't mess around hoping they will move, if they are seized they will need to be cut out, the sooner you accept this the less time you will waste hoping you don't have to cut them. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick997 Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 7 hours ago, BBB said: @nick997, I’m still gathering both parts and courage, so not done yet. One easier than the other I fear 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick997 Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 3 hours ago, ½cwt said: I've done a damper change on my 986, main thing to allow is time. You are also likely to find some or all 4 drop links are seized into the uprights and the old damper can be a bit of a pig to get out of the upright. Lots of even taps on a block of wood working around the casting where the damper fits in. Prep it all with lots of Plus Gas or similar. Go to the. 'What Have You Done to your 986' thread page 173 to look up what it took to do mine. @bally4563 can add some specific 987 advice but both cars are very similar with lots of shared parts. The eccentric bolts on the rear can seize into the bushes of the coffin arms and toe links too. Don't mess around hoping they will move, if they are seized they will need to be cut out, the sooner you accept this the less time you will waste hoping you don't have to cut them. If only the car was still a weekend toy tucked away in the garage and able to pick and choose when it gets worked on. Sadly I handed my work car back in at the start of the virus and put the Boxster into daily duties. I had the coffin arms replaced a few months back so hopefully some of the bolts will loosen up ok but not all the parts you mentioned. Might be best to give to a pro despite quite wanting to have a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 28 minutes ago, nick997 said: If only the car was still a weekend toy tucked away in the garage and able to pick and choose when it gets worked on. Sadly I handed my work car back in at the start of the virus and put the Boxster into daily duties. I had the coffin arms replaced a few months back so hopefully some of the bolts will loosen up ok but not all the parts you mentioned. Might be best to give to a pro despite quite wanting to have a go. A decent garage with Porsche experience will now all the tricks. As a mere amateur DIYer it took a bit of time to catch on! It will still be quite a few hours labour tough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted July 3, 2021 Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 (edited) I thought I'd get a start on building the strut before I take the old ones off, as I have all the parts to do this. You can see that the shortness of the damper rod is a problem. Other people seem to be almost able to fit the top nut by a tiny compression of the spring. I've tried and tried but I can't compress the spring enough with my spring compressors. I'm stuck now... Edited July 3, 2021 by BBB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red rocket Posted July 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 (edited) 6 minutes ago, BBB said: You can see that the shortness of the damper rod is a problem. Other people seem to be almost able to fit the top nut by a tiny compression of the spring. I've tried and tried but I can't compress the spring enough with my spring compressors. I'm stuck now... Sadly you've hit exactly the problem I had. Really don't understand what's changed. You'll probably need a garage with some heavy duty kit to sort it for you. If they can get the spring on it should pull the damper to correct length when compressors are removed. Edited July 3, 2021 by red rocket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted July 3, 2021 Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 What's the ride like on yours @red rocket? Are the dampers working okay? Do you think it's just that the damper rod needs to be pulled out of the body and this happens when the strut is fully assembled? It seems very odd when others have had no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red rocket Posted July 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 4 minutes ago, BBB said: Do you think it's just that the damper rod needs to be pulled out of the body and this happens when the strut is fully assembled? Yes. But it seems impossible to pull the rod out. It took alot of force (2 people)and heavy duty compressors to get the springs and top mounts on. Everything's fine now. Car was MoT'd last week and I did alot of driving last weekend 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted July 4, 2021 Report Share Posted July 4, 2021 Had a think about this overnight and decided to go full Heath Robinson. Leverage, that's the key to this. Luckily I had steel, hinges, drills etc and a spare Sunday. The left side is clamped to my bench, and there's a hinge there so the long, square section steel can pivot down to the right. I sat on the right hand side end, my wife in the middle on the dust sheets and my daughter stood directly over the shock. Enough thread came through and on with the nut. Phew! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red rocket Posted July 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2021 12 minutes ago, BBB said: The left side is clamped to my bench, and there's a hinge there so the long, square section steel can pivot down to the right. I sat on the right hand side end, my wife in the middle on the dust sheets and my daughter stood directly over the shock. Enough thread came through and on with the nut. Phew! Very Heath Robinson but well done! Have you compared the length now with the ones off the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted July 5, 2021 Report Share Posted July 5, 2021 12 hours ago, red rocket said: Very Heath Robinson but well done! Have you compared the length now with the ones off the car? I’ve still got to build the other strut, then clear up the bedlam in the garage before I tackle getting the old parts off. In anticipation of problems, can you use any bolt type for the coffin arms/subframe or do people use OEM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red rocket Posted July 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2021 39 minutes ago, BBB said: In anticipation of problems, can you use any bolt type for the coffin arms/subframe or do people use OEM? I bought new bolts for coffin arms and tuning forks from OPC. Not expensive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted July 5, 2021 Report Share Posted July 5, 2021 3 hours ago, BBB said: I’ve still got to build the other strut, then clear up the bedlam in the garage before I tackle getting the old parts off. In anticipation of problems, can you use any bolt type for the coffin arms/subframe or do people use OEM? From having cut them off to do the rear suspension they are a pretty hard steel, certainly not a regular 8.8 or 10.8 bolt. For the relatively small price stick with Porsche. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arfur Posted July 11, 2021 Report Share Posted July 11, 2021 If it’s any help when I replaced my front struts I found my spring compressors useless on the tapered springs the boxster has on the front. The trick I found recommended was not to assemble the struts at all. attach your top mounts to the car. Insert the struts into the hubs, then jack the hub up into the top mount against the weight of the car. Once one is connected to the other put the nut on the top of the strut. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted July 11, 2021 Report Share Posted July 11, 2021 Thanks @Arfur, I considered doing this at the start as it made sense to me, but couldn’t find reports of anyone doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygo Posted July 11, 2021 Report Share Posted July 11, 2021 (edited) Thats a clever idea, but not convinced the struts should need manipulating using the various ingenious methods in this thread! Surely they should reassemble in the same way as they were disassembed. Just IMHO. Edited July 11, 2021 by andygo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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