mortzz Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 Hi all I've had abit of a noisy front end not much just something worn so changed my track rod ends which was a easy job but just to warn people if yr going to attempt to do the drop links the very top bolt can decide to not want to budge, the issue is that the drop links hold the top of the wheel carrier for the bottom of the suspension the nut comes off just fine , if you haven't got anything to heat it up I wouldn't bother doing it yrself, each side took hours of hammering and constantly giving it bangs with the biggest hammer you can find .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mortzz Posted June 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 Can anyone give me the torque settings for the track rod ends and drop links please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 2 hours ago, mortzz said: Hi all I've had abit of a noisy front end not much just something worn so changed my track rod ends which was a easy job but just to warn people if yr going to attempt to do the drop links the very top bolt can decide to not want to budge, the issue is that the drop links hold the top of the wheel carrier for the bottom of the suspension the nut comes off just fine , if you haven't got anything to heat it up I wouldn't bother doing it yrself, each side took hours of hammering and constantly giving it bangs with the biggest hammer you can find .. These are a well known issue as they chemically weld due to steel/alloy corrosion. Same with the coffin arm and toe link bushes on the rear suspension. I purchased a magnetic induction heater for around £180 to do mine. Worked a treat. Unless the drop link is suspect best to leave it in place unless you need to remove the shock from the upright casting. All other work, even top mounts and bump stops, can be done by disconnecting the drop link at the ARB end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher2110 Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 1 hour ago, ½cwt said: Where did you lift this from? Is there a rear too? Quite handy to print out and keep in the garage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 It's from the Porsche 996 workshop manual I believe. Found it on 911uk here: 911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=83491 Rears for 996, most bolts are the same, but if you work to sizes you can fill in any you are sure of, just be sure that the two eccentric bolts on the coffin arm and toe link are 100Nm, not 120Nm that the size might suggest as they have the slot in them for the eccentric washer so take a lower torque: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mortzz Posted June 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 11 hours ago, ½cwt said: These are a well known issue as they chemically weld due to steel/alloy corrosion. Same with the coffin arm and toe link bushes on the rear suspension. I purchased a magnetic induction heater for around £180 to do mine. Worked a treat. Unless the drop link is suspect best to leave it in place unless you need to remove the shock from the upright casting. All other work, even top mounts and bump stops, can be done by disconnecting the drop link at the ARB end. Thanks mate I really had no idea , but with enough heat they will come out , I should of known better as steel and aluminium never go together well, and the noise is still there so I'm going to change the anti roll bar bush and I know that's an easy job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 7 minutes ago, mortzz said: Thanks mate I really had no idea , but with enough heat they will come out , I should of known better as steel and aluminium never go together well, and the noise is still there so I'm going to change the anti roll bar bush and I know that's an easy job £5 says it is the tuning forks. Is it a sort of click/rattle a bit like snooker balls rattling in the tringle when you set them up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mortzz Posted June 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 1 minute ago, ½cwt said: £5 says it is the tuning forks. Is it a sort of click/rattle a bit like snooker balls rattling in the tringle when you set them up? Never herd of the tuning forks which part is that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) 5 minutes ago, mortzz said: Never herd of the tuning forks which part is that The arm that goes forward from the bottom/coffin arm to the chassis. Porsche call it a Control Arm (Part number 996 341 043 06) but they look like this off the car, a little like a tuning fork, but both should be straight unlike one of mine!! A good after market source is Spyder Performance. Edited June 30, 2021 by ½cwt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mortzz Posted June 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 Cheers mate will the bolts come off these ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 1 minute ago, mortzz said: Cheers mate will the bolts come off these ok No problems on mine and I did have problems elsewhere. If you are doing these worth doing ARB bushes too as you take most of the ARB mount off to get the front of the arm off when you remove the hockey stick shaped plate/bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperPaulie Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 I'd bet my bottom dollar its the forks. And appreciate the heads up about the drop links, but it's pretty much universally known to occur, mentioned at least once a week on here. I used heat and brute force at the time to remove mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacoryan Posted July 1, 2021 Report Share Posted July 1, 2021 Good to know about the tuning forks, I had the same problem with the drop links which were knackered and after four hours I gave up and drove it around to the garage, £35 and not much time later job done - I didn’t have heat! But I do still have a stupid clatter that could be the tuning forks. Next job then... after the a/c, soft top bushes, paint work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted July 1, 2021 Report Share Posted July 1, 2021 3 hours ago, Pacoryan said: Good to know about the tuning forks, I had the same problem with the drop links which were knackered and after four hours I gave up and drove it around to the garage, £35 and not much time later job done - I didn’t have heat! But I do still have a stupid clatter that could be the tuning forks. Next job then... after the a/c, soft top bushes, paint work... I'd put tuning forks up this list to just after a/c, or even before. Makes a huge difference to the enjoyment of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacoryan Posted July 1, 2021 Report Share Posted July 1, 2021 39 minutes ago, ½cwt said: I'd put tuning forks up this list to just after a/c, or even before. Makes a huge difference to the enjoyment of the car. I think you’re right, the noise is p’ing me right off and the handling is not as good as it was when I got it back from JMG last year after new track rod ends/ball joints so I suspect the new bits have just highlighted/exacerbated the wear in other bits. The Forth Bridge part of old car ownership! I’d rather spend my time and money on suspension & powertrain than A/C, that’s for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 8 hours ago, Pacoryan said: I think you’re right, the noise is p’ing me right off and the handling is not as good as it was when I got it back from JMG last year after new track rod ends/ball joints so I suspect the new bits have just highlighted/exacerbated the wear in other bits. The Forth Bridge part of old car ownership! I’d rather spend my time and money on suspension & powertrain than A/C, that’s for sure. A 986 with sorted suspension is practically a new car. But Forth Bridge, definitely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBen Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 (edited) Did tuning forks on mine a couple of years back and it made such a difference, both to handling and stopping that godawful racket!! Nice easy job, done one summer Sunday afternoon in a couple of hours. If only it was as easy to fix some of the other issues! To return to the original subject, I think I'm the only person ever to change all four drop links without any issue - undid them and off they came. Very odd! Edited July 2, 2021 by MrBen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shazbot Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 When i replaced the b'stard drop links i put copperslip on the non threaded part that sits inside the ally hub so next time i don't hammer my fingers when i miss the drift ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 1 hour ago, Shazbot said: When i replaced the b'stard drop links i put copperslip on the non threaded part that sits inside the ally hub so next time i don't hammer my fingers when i miss the drift ! An aluminium based paste would have been better as copper can promote rather than inhibit alloy corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Ush Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 When I had my Elise I use to use a product called Duralac on anything where steel and alloy were touching. It’s just a corrosion inhibitor to stop the reaction between dissimilar metals. When I ever do any work on my suspension where bolts go into alloy parts I’ll probably use it again. It’s not expensive and a little goes a long way. http://www.llewellyn-ryland.co.uk/duralac.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mortzz Posted July 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2021 On 6/30/2021 at 10:28 PM, ½cwt said: £5 says it is the tuning forks. Is it a sort of click/rattle a bit like snooker balls rattling in the tringle when you set them up? Changed one side today with new Spider coffin arm and 1 tuning fork and noise gone , did that side coffin as the rubber was split ,, gona do the other side next week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATM Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 On 7/4/2021 at 4:14 PM, mortzz said: Spider coffin arm Spider? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 1 hour ago, ATM said: Spider? Spyder https://www.spyderperformance.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATM Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 24 minutes ago, BBB said: Spyder https://www.spyderperformance.co.uk/ Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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