DaveRB99 Posted June 7, 2023 Report Share Posted June 7, 2023 Can someone point me in the right directions for the factory wheel alignment / geometry settings for a 987.1 3.2S with PASM please (2005)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc Posted June 7, 2023 Report Share Posted June 7, 2023 Are you doing your geo yourself? If not then nearly every place with a laser based system will have the settings on their software. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveRB99 Posted June 7, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2023 (edited) 38 minutes ago, edc said: Are you doing your geo yourself? If not then nearly every place with a laser based system will have the settings on their software. No - I had it done today, but just want to make sure that the PASM has been taken into account (I believe the ‘green’ range is different as the ride height is 10mm lower than on non PASM cars). The screenshot I was sent of the before and after doesn’t mention PASM, it just says standard suspension. Edited June 7, 2023 by DaveRB99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc Posted June 7, 2023 Report Share Posted June 7, 2023 The PASM or sports suspension cars barely have much different in the settings. If the car feels good and is even side to side I wouldn't overly worry about it. It's hard to have to much or little toe and not notice and these cars can't get much camber anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ninesomething Posted June 9, 2023 Report Share Posted June 9, 2023 I have PASM. The Hunter sheet doesn't mention it. My guy knows Porsches having had a few and was able to get me 1.5 neg camber on the front. You'll know if it's not right. From CG - find a flat bit of road and let the car roll forwards at around 10mph. It should go dead straight. Find a reasonably cambered straight road and drive around 50mph - it should slowly go towards the gutter in about 5 seconds. Find a fairly flat rd drive around 20, take your hands off the wheel and hit the gas pretty hard in 2nd. If it wants to pull in either direction it's probably rear cambers. I reckon I can feel when it's even slightly off now and if it doesn't feel right it ruins the car for me. On another car they did it 3 times and swore up and down it was perfect but I knew it wasn't. In the end the they called the Hunter guy - he calibrated the machine and it was off. I'm such a smartarse 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Hamilton Posted June 9, 2023 Report Share Posted June 9, 2023 I posted this before somewhere, but here it is again: <987.1 Alignment Settings> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P27GLN Posted June 17, 2023 Report Share Posted June 17, 2023 I had an os lower control arm changed by an independent who did not have laser wheel alignment equipment but he sent me a specialist with such equipment. The specialist could not get the rear OS side alignment in the green and suggested I change my coil and shock. Curious I took the car to a OPC and they got the alignment into the green without changing any other parts. It’s not often I praise the service received from an OPC but in this case the deserved praise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted June 17, 2023 Report Share Posted June 17, 2023 These are not the easiest cars to set the geo on, but on the rear camber then track is the correct order. On my last geo the technician couldn't get the toe correct, but by reducing the camber by about 10', which pulls the bottom of the coffin arm in a fraction and so creates some negative toe, but still green, he got then got the toe spot on as well. It is a juggling act and knowing what you are doing. Had you changed the damper the same problem would still have been there (unless the shock was bent...), the geometry of the suspension design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P27GLN Posted June 17, 2023 Report Share Posted June 17, 2023 2 minutes ago, ½cwt said: These are not the easiest cars to set the geo on, but on the rear camber then track is the correct order. On my last geo the technician couldn't get the toe correct, but by reducing the camber by about 10', which pulls the bottom of the coffin arm in a fraction and so creates some negative toe, but still green, he got then got the toe spot on as well. It is a juggling act and knowing what you are doing. Had you changed the damper the same problem would still have been there (unless the shock was bent...), the geometry of the suspension design. And I think you really need to know the design and mechanics of the car, that a compliment to you Sir! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc Posted June 17, 2023 Report Share Posted June 17, 2023 37 minutes ago, ½cwt said: These are not the easiest cars to set the geo on, but on the rear camber then track is the correct order. On my last geo the technician couldn't get the toe correct, but by reducing the camber by about 10', which pulls the bottom of the coffin arm in a fraction and so creates some negative toe, but still green, he got then got the toe spot on as well. It is a juggling act and knowing what you are doing. Had you changed the damper the same problem would still have been there (unless the shock was bent...), the geometry of the suspension design. This effect is much worse on lower cars and the range of adjustment becomes very limited. That is why the adjustable rear toe links are so good. It's not to give more camber but enables less. Without the rear adjustable toe links you will always end up with a lot more rear negative camber than front and exacerbate the under steer bias. You have no chance of squaring up the camber without them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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