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2000 Boxster S Ignition Switch Sticking


SteveF099

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Common on a Boxster of that age. Not so expensive to replace, IIRC. I haven't heard of dangers from trying to lubricate it especially using graphite. Though I read pencils were banned in space due to the graphite dust potentially causing a problem with the electrics...

Is the problem the key barrel or the switched electrics at the end?

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1 hour ago, Menoporsche said:

Common on a Boxster of that age. Not so expensive to replace, IIRC. I haven't heard of dangers from trying to lubricate it especially using graphite. Though I read pencils were banned in space due to the graphite dust potentially causing a problem with the electrics...

Is the problem the key barrel or the switched electrics at the end?

Not having any problem starting the car. Key isn't hanging up in the barrel. It's just that it feels "tight" when turning the key to start / turn off the car. Thanks for the info. 

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Does the key return itself normally to the accessory position? Are you having any problems removing the key?

Years ago mine was doing that and as I recall it turned out to be the electrical portion of the ignition switch. If you're reasonably handy this can be a DIY job - it is a bit fiddly and getting the four screws out of the electrical module can be the hard part. As I recall there's quite a good tutorial over on the Pelican Parts site and I see one has already been linked here. 

I would get it sorted out promptly because it can abruptly fail with your key stuck in it.

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14 minutes ago, Photogirl said:

Does the key return itself normally to the accessory position? Are you having any problems removing the key?

Years ago mine was doing that and as I recall it turned out to be the electrical portion of the ignition switch. If you're reasonably handy this can be a DIY job - it is a bit fiddly and getting the four screws out of the electrical module can be the hard part. As I recall there's quite a good tutorial over on the Pelican Parts site and I see one has already been linked here. 

I would get it sorted out promptly because it can abruptly fail with your key stuck in it.

There is a How To tutorial on here that is better for RHD cars as the assembly is installed inverted compared to a LHD car and makes access rather different, linked earlier in the thread.

Edited by ½cwt
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  • 2 weeks later...

Just bought a project 986S which has a stiff ignition switch, (as well as a host of other things). As the poster said, stiff to turn and return. Will try a bit of silicon spray in there prior to renewing anything.

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51 minutes ago, phazed said:

Just bought a project 986S which has a stiff ignition switch, (as well as a host of other things). As the poster said, stiff to turn and return. Will try a bit of silicon spray in there prior to renewing anything.

Just change the electrical ignition swich, it is the cause, I promise!  And to lubricate it you need to take it off anyway to get to the mechanism and at 20 odd years old are you going to put a fairly cheap part back in just to have to change it later...

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Okay. I will have a word with my parts guy. Sounds like a plan.

I am bound to have lots of other questions once I put it up in the air and go over it at the weekend.

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52 minutes ago, phazed said:

Okay. I will have a word with my parts guy. Sounds like a plan.

I am bound to have lots of other questions once I put it up in the air and go over it at the weekend.

Aftermarket ones are £25 to £40 because it is a common VAG part from ECP/CP4L.  I needed mine in a hurry because of a trip to Europe was only a day and a half away when it started messing around and not releasing the key or not killing the engine so paid about £38 IIRC.  Basically the plastic mechanism inside the switch starts to break down.

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