edc

Sounds like fun. What the plan and spec? What series will you race in? 

Pics and Dyno of 996 throttle body here

1 minute ago, Dan944 said:

hi , great job! 

do you have any pics?

 

ive wanted to do this myself and also the larger throttle body mod but just didn’t really want to go down the route of having to remap the ecu as i’ve not long gone through that with my turbo ed porsche. if you thing the TB is worth opening up i’d be interested in doing that myself and was wondering if making a total custom air box one day? if it would be easier?

 

Daniel 

 

 

You don't need to remap it. You can just do the 996 plenum and throttle body without the 987 airbox. Not as much a gain perhaps but a quarter of the time.

Seems a shame to do all that and now bolt on the £35 996 plenum and £100 74mm TB. Good job nonetheless! 

20 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Interesting, I'll have to look back in the service record to see if I can find when it was changed, but it must be 2 years old as I haven't replaced it.  Strange it should happen on the same day it was serviced though ?!?

I had the coolant overflow on my first 986 after a service at OPC for a fixed price. They didn't screw the cap on properly. 

Try the made by Meyle Spyder Performance suspension arms. Koni FSD was about £650 for a whole kit 

Looks good. Similar to what Exy did to his Sport Designs Designs a few years back. 

26 minutes ago, Berni29 said:

Hi

Painted my other wing mirror. Did a better job than the first one. My experience showing

Berni

How do the wing mirror covers come off?

29 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Nah, mines a 2000 S so CD in dash, CD storage and CD changer... then again I've replaced the head unit with a Bluetooth compatible one, deleted the CD storage with a paling shelf and flogged the autochanger.  Perhaps a glass window in a new pre-facelift hood does start to make some sense. 🤔

Nobody's made this. The glass is smaller to clear the hoops properly so when you get an aftermarket pre facelift glass hood it's a whole piece of glass and fabric. 

I think if you have the pre facelift the shape of the roof suits the plastic window. Without doubt the aftermarket glass in more practical and will look newer but newness all being equal the plastic screen looks nicer. 

These will be fine as they have the floating collar. I've used the Techworld ones since 2013.

2 hours ago, JL888 said:

I'm toying with the idea of the 74mm TB but I'm not sure if larger plenum would be needed?

I like the idea of the 987 airbox and modded induction hose but I believe it's a pig of a job.😬

You have no choice but to at least use the 996 or 997 plenum as your existing plenum is 68mm to match the existing throttle body. 74mm TB on a 68mm plenum obviously doesn't go.

Get the brighter but same wattage bulbs. I would also do the 74mm throttle body. Did it myself several years ago 68 to 82 mm is a big jump. 

On 8/2/2020 at 9:53 PM, JimC2407 said:

Road focused, looking for good turn in without it getting too lively at the back so I suppose more of a slightly tightened version of the existing. Not sure if I'll need adjustable top mounts as might not be necessary to run that much negative camber. I need to re-read your 550 thread but did you alter the arb's at all or just polybush?

Not sure you'd need adjustable top mounts. Dremel the strut tower and it will likely give you enough for the road up to -2.5. 

I have the M030 ARBs but with black series powerflex bushes. 

4 hours ago, JimC2407 said:

Finally got round to fitting spacers and deep cleaning the wheels along with giving all the vulnerable exposed stuff a coating of acf50. Dampers definitely looking rather ropey, though still functioning fine for now, so it may be time to investigate KONI active sport with 10mm lower H&R springs as I know a few on here run that set up. Any recommendations on top mounts as a bit of adjustability might be useful?

What geo do you intend to run and is the car for mainly road or track? 

If you've had a recent geo and it was out then the tyres will have worn to the old geo. The tyres will scrub into the new geo but might take some time to get there. 

Here it is

A few here have fabricated for others in the last. It's basically a hex bar just like on the Pedro's garage website. On a manual it just bolts in.

A few of us have the rear Ali lower brace. Works well and noticeable effect to tighten up the rear. 

Both very neat solutions but did you not look at putting the mic in the OE place behind the small grille on the instrument binnacle? 

These are standard factory fitted spacers for 550 and GT3. Nothing wrong with the geometry on them. 

10 minutes ago, GmanB said:

 

Either no noticeable difference or negative comments from what I've seen on this forum.  Someone did some awesome math on a thread here proving it was not good for geometry to use spacers. Porsche made it that way for a reason, I guess?

In the same way they spec standard spacers on the 550 and various GT3s ... 

There must be some wonky maths on a spacers and geometry calculation as you can achieve the same result with different off set wheels.

3 hours ago, GmanB said:

I have this problem on the rear of my car, can you recommend adjustable toe links? I have a mixture of meyle and trw on mine currently.

I don't have a recommendation as I haven't used anything on the market. I have a pair of home made by @marseille adjustable links. They are modified standard toe links with an adjustable end placed on. I upgraded the rod end to a higher spec Fluoro item. 

Anecdotal feedback is that just like the exhaust box many of the ones that look the same are the AliExpress sourced ones rebranded. They are supposedly quite chunky and heavy and come in gaudy colours. 

On both mine the problem occurs when the car is lowered. You might lower it but equally it might lower itself with old saggy suspension. Normally hat happens is when you set the rear toe to parallel +/-5, you end up with an excessive amount of negative camber probably -2 to -2.5. 

The adjustable toe links enable you to keep the correct toe setting but bring the camber back to something more sensible. Now this doesn't matter if you want a lot of rear negative camber, perhaps because you are adding a lot of front negative camber. But if you do t address it you end up with say -2 to -2.5 on the rear and maybe -0.5 to -1 on the front. 

But yes as above do the usual checks to make sure the suspension and chassis is in otherwise good order. 

I put M030 on a standard 12 year old 60k mile car and there was negligible difference in height. If you are on old standard suspension then it will have sagged.