edc

Try the made by Meyle Spyder Performance suspension arms. Koni FSD was about £650 for a whole kit 

Looks good. Similar to what Exy did to his Sport Designs Designs a few years back. 

26 minutes ago, Berni29 said:

Hi

Painted my other wing mirror. Did a better job than the first one. My experience showing

Berni

How do the wing mirror covers come off?

29 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Nah, mines a 2000 S so CD in dash, CD storage and CD changer... then again I've replaced the head unit with a Bluetooth compatible one, deleted the CD storage with a paling shelf and flogged the autochanger.  Perhaps a glass window in a new pre-facelift hood does start to make some sense. 🤔

Nobody's made this. The glass is smaller to clear the hoops properly so when you get an aftermarket pre facelift glass hood it's a whole piece of glass and fabric. 

I think if you have the pre facelift the shape of the roof suits the plastic window. Without doubt the aftermarket glass in more practical and will look newer but newness all being equal the plastic screen looks nicer. 

These will be fine as they have the floating collar. I've used the Techworld ones since 2013.

2 hours ago, JL888 said:

I'm toying with the idea of the 74mm TB but I'm not sure if larger plenum would be needed?

I like the idea of the 987 airbox and modded induction hose but I believe it's a pig of a job.😬

You have no choice but to at least use the 996 or 997 plenum as your existing plenum is 68mm to match the existing throttle body. 74mm TB on a 68mm plenum obviously doesn't go.

Get the brighter but same wattage bulbs. I would also do the 74mm throttle body. Did it myself several years ago 68 to 82 mm is a big jump. 

On 8/2/2020 at 9:53 PM, JimC2407 said:

Road focused, looking for good turn in without it getting too lively at the back so I suppose more of a slightly tightened version of the existing. Not sure if I'll need adjustable top mounts as might not be necessary to run that much negative camber. I need to re-read your 550 thread but did you alter the arb's at all or just polybush?

Not sure you'd need adjustable top mounts. Dremel the strut tower and it will likely give you enough for the road up to -2.5. 

I have the M030 ARBs but with black series powerflex bushes. 

4 hours ago, JimC2407 said:

Finally got round to fitting spacers and deep cleaning the wheels along with giving all the vulnerable exposed stuff a coating of acf50. Dampers definitely looking rather ropey, though still functioning fine for now, so it may be time to investigate KONI active sport with 10mm lower H&R springs as I know a few on here run that set up. Any recommendations on top mounts as a bit of adjustability might be useful?

What geo do you intend to run and is the car for mainly road or track? 

If you've had a recent geo and it was out then the tyres will have worn to the old geo. The tyres will scrub into the new geo but might take some time to get there. 

Here it is

A few here have fabricated for others in the last. It's basically a hex bar just like on the Pedro's garage website. On a manual it just bolts in.

A few of us have the rear Ali lower brace. Works well and noticeable effect to tighten up the rear. 

Both very neat solutions but did you not look at putting the mic in the OE place behind the small grille on the instrument binnacle? 

These are standard factory fitted spacers for 550 and GT3. Nothing wrong with the geometry on them. 

10 minutes ago, GmanB said:

 

Either no noticeable difference or negative comments from what I've seen on this forum.  Someone did some awesome math on a thread here proving it was not good for geometry to use spacers. Porsche made it that way for a reason, I guess?

In the same way they spec standard spacers on the 550 and various GT3s ... 

There must be some wonky maths on a spacers and geometry calculation as you can achieve the same result with different off set wheels.

3 hours ago, GmanB said:

I have this problem on the rear of my car, can you recommend adjustable toe links? I have a mixture of meyle and trw on mine currently.

I don't have a recommendation as I haven't used anything on the market. I have a pair of home made by @marseille adjustable links. They are modified standard toe links with an adjustable end placed on. I upgraded the rod end to a higher spec Fluoro item. 

Anecdotal feedback is that just like the exhaust box many of the ones that look the same are the AliExpress sourced ones rebranded. They are supposedly quite chunky and heavy and come in gaudy colours. 

On both mine the problem occurs when the car is lowered. You might lower it but equally it might lower itself with old saggy suspension. Normally hat happens is when you set the rear toe to parallel +/-5, you end up with an excessive amount of negative camber probably -2 to -2.5. 

The adjustable toe links enable you to keep the correct toe setting but bring the camber back to something more sensible. Now this doesn't matter if you want a lot of rear negative camber, perhaps because you are adding a lot of front negative camber. But if you do t address it you end up with say -2 to -2.5 on the rear and maybe -0.5 to -1 on the front. 

But yes as above do the usual checks to make sure the suspension and chassis is in otherwise good order. 

I put M030 on a standard 12 year old 60k mile car and there was negligible difference in height. If you are on old standard suspension then it will have sagged. 

4 hours ago, Dan944 said:

 hi edc,  would you or anyone be able to give me what you’d concider the best front and rear set up for toe and camber for great  road handling? 

thanks 

daniel 😊🤤

Best is subjective and I've learnt over the recent years that what I like isn't necessarily what others like. But if you want an opinion I would start with something close to the edge of the standard geo, have a play for a bit then go from there. 

If you begin to get understeer then add more negative camber on the front. 

The rear is generally around 1 degree negative camber more than the front. You can look to square this up and you will have a more neutral to rear balance then. You will most likely need to slot the front at least and get some rear toe links to achieve something like -2 camber at both ends. 

4 hours ago, Dan944 said:

thanks for this.

my new toe arms are giving m enough toe its the coffin and that i could do with a tad more ☹️ only reason i could think of was that ii’ve got 18s on it but him pretty sure there the standard size for the s? and can’t reallt get my head round why th ey havnt got more adjustment 😡

i know of t he gt3 coffin arms that are adjustable, but there so bloody expensive! and i’ve just bought  x4 coffin arms and all the tie rods ect 🙄

 

Is the car lowered? Or is it perhaps on old dampers and springs sagging lower? In either case you tend to run out of adjustment to balance the rear toe and camber.

The negative camber you will feel the harder and faster you go into the corner deeper. This is that 'corners like it's on rails' feeling. Because the standard set up has more negative camber than the front it's not until you push the car and feel the front wash or push on that you have reached the limits of the standard set up. 

Toe in will feel steadier in the straight ahead. I would later try parallel toe and you will probably find better turn in response. 

1 hour ago, Berni29 said:

Hi, What a great idea! Will do that if required. You are talking about the three holes at the top yes?

That's it. Have a good look. You can only take out a small amount until the top mount hits the metal. Mark up and Dremel out towards the mark. You only need to Dremel one side of the slot of course. I originally had this done in 2012 and it's a low cost alternative to adjustable top mounts or GT3 style adjustable arms. You get more adjustment from the adjustable parts of course but for the road up to an extra 1 degree negative camber is probably enough for most people.