edc

3 hours ago, Dan944 said:

hi edc , 

can you explain what slot you’re talking about here? is it in the mount hole that comes down from the car chassis where the back of the coffin arm goes in your talking about about ilongating ......or the one the toe arm goes into? or on the bush holes in the coffin arms ?

i changed my nearside rear coffin and toe arm ( what a Bar&£@rd !!! that was to get off ) i had a problem getting another degree of camber to get it to factory specs think i needed another 4- 6mm of travel ? can’t remember now. 

looked into these inserts into the coffin arms from germany that have two holes so you can achieve a bit more - camber i think it was , but problem was at the time they couldn’t tell me how much ?,...and the car felt night and day, but it’s not 100% and will eat the tires up if not corrected in future!

 

Daniel 

No. It's the slot in the front chassis strut tower where you already adjust the camber from. This doesn't work for rear camber. 

If you're having problems with the rear geo get some adjustable toe links. The other benefit is you tend to get these rose jointed.

11 hours ago, bally4563 said:

Correct in thinking fine for turn in but not pleasant on straight roads, ie motorways etc?

Toe affects the turn in much more than camber. Mine isn't a daily driver but I find it fine on the times it goes on a motorway. This one and previous one set up kind of the same and both done week long joins around Europe no problem. 

You can Dremel the slot around 5mm to get around 0.5 to 1 degree extra neg camber. 

Here's a 105k mile IMS bearing

That wheel looks like it came out of a Toyota 🤔😮

Very impressed with doing that on the drive but what's stopping the car tipping off the stand forwards? 

Not too but for. Katsu DA plus 15 pads £68. 

http://imgur.com/a/l9PXhKW

The finish looks good but what colour is that, it's hard to tell. 

1 hour ago, map said:

Indeed - not really sure how to quantitively measure any impact.  

Pretty certain that on a dyno it will impede things as instinctively the OE opening is better for the relatively still air in a cell.  Once the car's moving I would hope it's more effective pulling in air than the "lip" on the leading edge of the OE opening.

If anyone's got access to a wind tunnel with a dyno sat in the middle of it or the ability to run some Fluid Dynamics wizardry over the setup I'd be happy to see what difference it makes - if any.

Wheel dynos use big fans to simulate high speed. I would suggest a before and after Dyno. The air certainly isn't still inside a Dyno cell. 

Maybe there's a way to measure air flow or speed over the MAF through a diagnostic tester too. 

It will be interesting to see if it makes a real difference to power. 

I gave it a good wash, a bit of trim dressing and as the weather was so nice also changed the wipers 😂

Once bumper is off mesh is perhaps an hour max to do. 

A surf board or kayak might be useful at the moment 😂

A clean and a grease helps a bit. The eBay one has solid bearings. The kits the like of @jimk04 sold and I have not fitted are a roller bearing type. I ha e hear roller bearings fitted to an OE shortshift. Having had an eBay one an I liked it, I prefer the OE shortshift modified with roller bearings. Also tried a standard 987 with the roller bearings and that was also good. Marginally but not much different to the OE 986 shortshift. The next thing to modify would be the white nylon oblong block. @jimk04 kits supplied some thin metal shims but I found mine didn't need them. You use the shims almost like a feeler gauge and test the shift but with the shim mine stiffened up too much. The end cable cup fittings are also nylon so that would be another place to look to tighten things up. Or just go the whole hog and do a CAE shifter with Numeric cable a la @map 

1 hour ago, Sanky said:

Thanks, so it’s like the eBay ones with couple of extra bearings added on the ends.

That's basically what he does. Buy in the eBay one and modify it. 

Most remaps will adjust the throttle request map so it feels like the throttle response is better. 

I would be tempted to wrap your mirror covers in a gloss black too to give the same accent. 

Good to see the love and enjoyment you get from the car after all these years. Also goes to show a bit like a relationship, a few mods and a bit of attention go a long way 😄

If you want to tackle understeer then start with the geo and make sure you have fresh dampers. 

A piggyback chip. Used to be quite common. A bit like the old style Dastek Unichips, except you had to wire/clip these inline. This was from memory pre OBD2 standard coming in. 

You won't tell the difference in ARBs unless you are really leaning on the car. 

It's always fun to mod. Any plans for suspension or things like engine/gearbox mounts? 

Looks very tidy and nice in Guards red. 

17 minutes ago, kevs said:

Changed the ignition switch - £15 part from ECP.  Followed the guide from Pedro’s Garage:  http://pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Replace_Ignition_Switch.html

Incredibly fiddly to get under there (and I’m not exactly tall/big) and getting at the screws was a PITA.   Managed it eventually!

Got a link or part number for GSF? 

What does the complete plastic white pin look like? My ashtray is temperamental and I'm wondering if I can effect a repair with sugru or similar.