jonogt6

On 9/22/2023 at 3:20 PM, wasz said:

I understand only vehicles registered after 2002 need to have a catalytic converter fitted to pass the visual part of the MOT test.

My 1998 car has a rather ropey looking exhaust system. I'm thinking of ruining it by fitting a full stainless system.

I was wondering, will the 1998 2.5 pass the emissions part of the test without a cat?

It shouldn't throw a CEL light as the only lambdas are pre-cat on these cars.

I bought at auction a decat MX5 once (unknown to me), and it was touch and go on the emissions I had to try a few times on the tester with it red hot and running snake oil in the fuel.

Anyone got experience here?

Cheers.

I would say not a chance. I don't know where you got the 2002 info from but I'm fairly certain it's all cars built from 1994. Unless you know some dodgy backstreet garage that'll forge the emissions docs it's impossible.

I'd try Aliexpress..  they used to have a bewildering array of stuff like that.

On 8/31/2023 at 10:44 PM, markjh said:

I'm looking to improve on the standard comfort seats in my 986.

Decent 987 sports seats (the popular upgrade) are rare and expensive, have looked at the Recaro Sportster CS and feel like I want something a bit more retro.

Has anyone fitted, or attempted to fit, Recaro Classic seats in a Boxster?

Pics from 70's 80's 911s to try an and show what I'm aiming for.

Thanks

Mark

 

I'm assuming you have the standard seats as opposed to the wing back sports seats that were fitted as a fairly common option. Wouldn't it be easier to fit a set of those?

On 7/19/2023 at 9:45 AM, greenman986s said:

Exactly - they are taking you for a ride. That total quote is £995, of which less than £100 is parts...hence the extortionate labour charge

The anti roll bar itself is fairly expensive as a new part so not that surprising.

On 7/19/2023 at 9:24 AM, Menoporsche said:

IMS irrelevant on a 1998 2.5.

Unless it fails ehhh😉

The remote locking system will be disabled after several days inactivity. I think you have to open manually with the key to reactivate. Have you tried since it failed?

2 hours ago, ANL said:

The Hood has suddenly decided not to go fully up. Finishes with about an inch or so from the top. The dash hood light does go out indicate the hood is fully up. What do I have to do

Adjust the hood so it will fully close?

 

 

Tensioning cables at the rear of the hood ok?

Is the hood sitting flush inside the edge of the plastic frame above the side windows? They can pop out an stop the latch engaging.

1 hour ago, Dodgster said:

Are there any guys out there who have a 2001 S and have overcome this issue? 
I'm thinking that as this was a “crossover” year as they were building up to the launch of the 987 that perhaps there are some oddities on this model as everywhere I’ve looked the release cord with the loop is not present. 
I am definitely going to get this rewired so it goes through the towing eye ….

I doubt it..the 987 wasnt  launched until late 2004.

2 hours ago, Spuggy said:

On my 98 car, it is just above the o/s door top hinge.  

 

Steve

Surely that's for the fuel filler cap release.

Another years MOT sorted. This time failed on both front sidelights and one rear side not working. I managed to convince them that the fronts were working fine, but had to male a quick dash down to Halfords store in Northampton to buy a new rear bulb. Fair play to Halfords Autocentre in Northampton though.. they passed it an hour later when I returned with the new bulb fitted.

Not bad for over 24 years old...happy for another year🙂

9 hours ago, BBB said:

My OEM silencers were definitely not stainless, they rusted horrendously.

I bet they were...all grades of Stainless Steel rust depending on what environment they're in.

On 5/14/2023 at 4:50 PM, McDonald said:

I've just coughed up for my new exhaust. It'll be installed 9th June. I've gone for Dansk at a cost of 2.5K fitted. I'm actually looking forward to it as it's been running on a bandage for a few months. It's a big ticket item (Porsche quoted 5.6K plus a £300 contingency fund in case it's difficult to detach) but my original exhaust has lasted 18 yrs, so I can hardly complain.

Omg that Porsche price is horrific...is that for a complete system including cats?

On 5/14/2023 at 1:51 PM, BBB said:

The DesignTek version for my 987.1 is stainless steel, so has a much longer life expectancy than buying a second hand or even new OEM system. Mine is valved and I really like it, but it does seem that non-valved versions can be drone boxes.

How does it have a longer life expectancy of a new OEM system?They are also made of stainless steel.

Mine had started to go in the areas painted grey. They protrude in to the wheels arch and are open to the elements so it's hardly surprising. Tbh it wasn't that bad, so I dremelled it back to bare metal and applied some rust converter, Primer, then paint. Should keep it at bay for a good few years.

I used to like them pre brexit. My experience of them since is not good, so won't be using them again.

I bought two brand new cats for £59 each back in 2020. So far they've got through two mots with no problems at all and I suspect they'll be alright for the next mot in March.

So on that basis I can purchase 42 new Cats2U cats for the cost of 1 Porsche. So even if they only last another mot I should be OK for another 120 years of mots😃

Hi, I think it all depends on your budget. The closest to original spec is probably going to be a Dansk. They do several versions..standard, loud, or very loud. The standard version is £908 from design 911 although I think they are currently offering 10% off.

Alternatively you'll have to look for a good used Porsche example.

Welcome. The car looks in decent shape underneath 👍

I've spent far too much of my time over the last ten years removing/replacing parts in my car.😬 I've never seen a single part that does not have a reference number on it. I suspect that the bit in your photo is from something else

3 hours ago, el 3.2S said:

I am pretty sure my 2000 S model with about 90,000 miles is still using all its original M030 suspension parts. It seems to mostly be all working fine, except for some noises from the front when going over speed bumps and the front end kind of not feeling very planted, or wandering a bit, at motorway speeds.

I wonder if these symptoms may improve with fitting new front lower control arms and tuning forks? From looking at videos, the fitment looks easy enough for diy at home?

I found these Spyder Performance parts on ebay for a fairly decent price. I will likely buy this, or something similar, if there is a chance of it improving things? Just wondered what other people's thoughts were?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333598921955?fits=Car+Make%3APorsche|Model%3ABoxster&hash=item4dac0b94e3%3Ag%3ARv0AAOSwfxRevaRf&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4MxtTYwjKLPBNolsUOpNXNPrBVG9l3NclE5olePd0WAWL9V1vLhfO%2Bk97hBSW3UC9oiWyu9UKA6Gw%2BuGpZjBjuLil4syVvhKlM8Q5xcNORzXIPzMpyecloKfxaj1dNiwhTBu20Z9tZqALXCj6byLastCHngQdSUEXKl6enYbN6UrhSnEny%2BKYjtIHS%2BVO4Y1QJ3JeeCi25FzoNsy3i9G1Bf2ZMek%2FLN0ArOIjV0t0d8zNAuA4rRsg50ZOXjlXBYetQZFXTuxvQr02qEQLSguQ%2BzFarvfrPYgcbQp5xcSWepZ|tkp%3ABk9SR_bE98TnYQ&LH_ItemCondition=3

 

Strange, that link shows £297 but they were £247 when I looked before?

 

 

 

 

That's inflation for ya!

Did some seat maintenance on thr drivers side. Noticed for ages mow that seat base was sagging slightly, so removed the seat. Once out it was obvious that the metal mesh was digging in to the foam base...about 1.5cm in places.  Chopped up an old leather belt and sliding it between the foam and metal mesh to prevent the mesh cuuting in,also a couple of giant cable ties and now seems much better.

Gave the seat a proper clean as well.

Wow that's a hefty bill but a fairly comprehensive list of item replaced. I'm assuming all those bits were authorised...if so probably about right. Got a great deal on an AOS if its genuine. 

23 minutes ago, Boxsum said:

I don’t think it’s a problem with aftermarket parts, I have euro cup gt headers and the Porsche specialist I used wrapped the pipe with heat shield when fitting as they knew what they were doing.

From what I’ve learnt on here since owning a 986 I would definitely get it inspected by a professional as so many are maintained on a shoe string by many that don’t know what they are doing. 
Many are also very well maintained (just not to upset the few that do things properly).

I agree.. there's nothing wrong with the headers themselves. Its just the application that needs some consideration.

6 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

@jonogt6 Don't suppose you have a picture of the relative positions of the PS hose and the manifold do you?  Is this problem down to poor installation and not checking the routing of the hose, not considering a heat sleeve, or something else?

This photo gives an idea of what could happen if the hose isn't secured up out of the was. The manifold is a different profile to oem and will potentially touch the pipe.

Not my car and hope the owner doesnt mind me posting this if hes on here, but this popped up earlier on one of the Facebook Boxster groups. Yet another Boxster burnt out due to aftermarket exhaust headers/manifolds being fitted and burning through the power steering flexible pipe. I've seen way to many examples of this...so please if you have aftermarket manifolds fitted please check the position of the flexi ps pipe😟. I personally wouldn't fit them but know plenty of people have.

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