Nobbie

58 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Following up on the 200 cell cat manifolds, replacement. Well 11 out of 12 bolts out, one sheared leaving a 3/8 stub , welded a nut on , started to move then sheared flush, so out with the drill jig kit( nice bit a kit) all sorted, just waiting on a couple of lambda sensors, then it’s out to test the replacement rear strut and manifolds 😊😊

Fancy a full road test on Sunday?

2 minutes ago, Cocky said:

Been under his car for weeks Bally Mick stuck in a loop of tightening, slackening & tightening bolts. 

It’s not just bolts, he has a play with his nuts while he’s there.

1 hour ago, bally4563 said:

So today got back home from work and my Bilstein B6 PASM rear struts have finally arrived ( ordered in December!!)

Stripped one out, opened the box and they have sent fronts😡😡

On a positive note the Carnewal 200 cell cat manifolds I’ve bought, the one side I’ve done no bolts sheared, 😇using some sound engineering practises, just hope the other side plays ball🤞

BFH?

Uni royal Rainsport 2 get good reviews on here at around £120 a piece for the rears or the Eagle Assymetrics have an A rating for wet grip at £137 each. As you have already found, you drive up to the limit of your tyres and then know how far to push it. The better the tyre you get, the faster you’ll be going when you do exceed the grip limits. If you’re going to be driving it in the wet a lot, it makes sense to prioritise wet grip over ultimate grip in the dry.

I found Khumos gripped really well, but I got through a set of rears in around 4K😳 of B road blasting.

Looks to me like the membrane has been pulled up when something used to clean it has been withdrawn? Can you push it back down into place?

For drying out, I used a towel jammed as far under the foam as possible and then press a few times with the foot and remove, then remove and do the same with a second towel and leav it in there overnight before changing until it’s sufficiently dry. Reminds me, I must put the towel back in and mend bumpy membrane🤣

Seven weeks is a bit excessive, hope you had a decent loaner?

7 hours ago, alank said:

Just managed to get the hourly rate increased to £200+vat, so that will enable me to use a local OPC , as their rate is £165+vat. So apart from the risk of them not paying out, the £790 for 18 months, with no excess, or component contribution, and Infotainment/Nav, seems quite attractive. 

What level of plan is that for? Seen some comments that say infotainment etc are all covered, but in the small print you find they are only covered if they actually cause a breakdown which is unlikely.

5 hours ago, Araf said:

I found this to be a good read.  There's plenty of them.  

"Taken out a warranty with Motoreasy and now car has developed a fault. Told me to take the car to one of their network garages. Diagnosed as fault in automatic gearbox. Garage said they can't repair it as they don't do automatic gearboxes. (!) Neither the garage or Motoreasy bothered to phone me to say I could collect the car so I had to leave it at the garage overnight.
They have now booked it into another garage 20 miles away and garage has told me it could take 4 hours to diagnose the problem when they actually get to look at the car. What do they expect me to do, wait around all day? Phoned Motoreasy and they were no help. I suggested I take the car to the local dealer for my car (3 miles away) but they said I would have to pay for the diagnosis and they would not necessarily accept their diagnosis. Waiting to see if they can find a garage closer to me to diagnose the problem. I'm 70 years old and do not need this sort of hassle. This will be updated.
UPDATE
Received an email telling me that I had to take the car for diagnosis to a garage 22 miles away! It said the appointment was was for 9am and that I would need to leave the car for half a day. I went to the garage on the day I was told to and arrived about 8:30. I waited until 9:15 and then phoned the garage mobile number. I was told that the garage does not open until 10am. An employee arrived about 9:40.
After taking the car for a short drive and putting it on a ramp to inspect the car, the employee said that the gearbox had several faults and would need to be stripped down and inspected by an engineer sent by Motoreasy. I said that there had never been a problem with the gearbox. It changes ok and never misses a gearchange. I said that the problem was a noise from the front nearside.The garage kept me waiting saying that they had tried ten times to contact Motoreasy and were waiting for a reply to an email they had sent. I then phoned Motoreasy and asked them to ring the garage. I asked the employee what error codes their error diagnostic tool had found and he replied none were found. Error codes would appear on the LCD screen in the car if any were present. I then took the car and went home.
I phoned Motoreasy and was told that I would have to pay for the gearbox to be stripped down. It would then be inspected by a Motoreasy engineer to see if the fault would be covered. (In the event that the faults were not covered then I assume I would have to pay for the cost of their engineer) If the faults were not covered then I would then have to pay the bill for the garage stripping the box ( I had already paid £72 for the diagnosis) I would then have to pay for all the repairs to the gearbox or pay for a replacement box.
I phoned Motoreasy and again told them that there were no problems with the gearbox. I was then given advice not to get the box stripped but to wait until the noise got worse or an error appeared on the car LCD display. I then took the car to a local automatic gearbox garage who have been trading for 30 years. They took the car for a test drive and said they could find nothing wrong with the box.
I then took it to another garage and they said the same.
My MOT was now due so I took it to a local MOT station and it passed with no advisories . While my car was on the ramp I mentioned the noise to the tester. He had a look at everything for me and said everything seemed ok . He suggested that although the car had past the brake test 100% and although the discs and pads were OK , there was a possibility that the noise could be from the nearside brake disc.
I decided to ring my local Peugeot dealer and they said they were doing a special offer on front discs and pad replacement. I decided to get both front discs and pads replaced.
Collected the car from the dealer the next day and guess what ? - the noise was gone!.
This weekend I travelled to a distance of 824 miles in one day. My car had no problems or error codes.
That you Motoreasy, I am now £72 out of pocket for a diagnosis I didn't need. You decide that the first garage who had diagnosed the problem as the auto gearbox, were correct even though they don't repair auto boxes and would probably not know a lot about auto boxes. The second garage you sent me too has cost me £72 and a days travel and attending the garage.
I have the Plan A warranty cover which says it covers everything including wear and tear. It says that the whole gearbox is covered so what could not be covered?
The car is 3 and half years old and has only covered 20,000 miles so it would be unlikely the gearbox would go already. Completely fed up with these people now and still have 6 months warranty left."

They sound very slippery. Sales pitch is good, but actual claim experience less so based on that. Seems some companies focus most of their efforts on working out clever ways of avoiding ever paying out on a claim by making the claim process difficult.

8 minutes ago, Madlil said:

Changing my steering wheel tomorrow for a sport with paddles bought from @driyage (thank you mate!)

there are different views on here about whether to disconnect the battery or not. What’s risk of changing the steering wheel without disconnecting the battery?

thanks

Andrew

Don’t they normally recommend disconnecting the battery when removing airbags to avoid accidents.

Maybe they just replace the steering rack under the warranty unless it’s a simple reset procedure. I remember reading about the PDK gearbox where a leak from a minor seal requires... a new gearbox🥴

3 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Yes I think you're probably right re fatigue (Porsche Plastic after all). Everything else looks ok re alignment etc but just want it checked to be sure.

How long did you use the roof for before realising ? 

Bought at the beginning of Oct 2016, finally located the issue in Jan 2017, when the car started fogging up.

5 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Booked car in tomorrow to understand why this happened and get sorted - lower passenger side, roof push rod knuckle went bye bye...which is what it's supposed to do under duress.

Ironically roof works fine without it 😆?!

But obviously not going to use roof until fixed 😪

 

 

This happened to mine the day I picked it up when I heard a loud bang, but didn’t realise and kept using the roof as the other side does the work. I only noticed when I got a leak in the car from where the loose arm punctured the sealing membrane in that area. Replaced the ballpoint and it’s worked fine for the last 3 years. May just have been fatigue on the old plastic as they are supposed to break to save the rest of the mechanism.

Hopefully a quick cheap fix for you🤞

21 minutes ago, Ken wight said:

Anyone had the problem with a tiptronic gearbox lights flashing d to 4 

From what I’ve read on here it is the Tip controller being unable to resolve it’s sensor inputs, so probably a sensor failed somewhere. Need to get a decent code reader on it to determine what’s wrong. There is a selector switch on the side of the box which can play up when the contacts get dirty. About £150-£200 for the part plus fitting of about an hour from memory.

17 hours ago, el 3.2S said:

MOT(ITV) passed this afternoon. As per previous two times it struggled on the emissions, namely the lambda at 2000 rpm. Should be under 1,03 and mine was 1,06 with engine and cats etc scalding hot. The tester then stuck a rag in the exhaust, which helped it pass last two times but still did not come under about 1,055. He then asked me to rev it at 4000 rpm and the value then fell below the limit and he was satisfied. Not sure if this is normal procedure or not? He told me whilst under the car he observed a leak in the exhaust due to corrosion at one of the bends near the back box and that this would be the reason for the emissions problem. Not had a look yet myself but am curious if this is a common place for corrosion and if it could maybe be repaired?

Sounds like a corroded sleeve joint between the U bend and the cat perhaps. I failed an MoT on emissions when I had a leak there. Fairly easy to change and you can buy suitable joint on eBay for not too much rather than paying £££ for the OE parts.

5 hours ago, ATM said:

Just took a few pictures with my phone and they're all basically useless - like the one below. They just show oil everywhere. 

Is that a drop of fluid below the connector in the top left hand corner? If so, it must either have dripped down to here from a leak above, or been in the firing line of a spray of fluid from a crack somewhere with high pressure fluid inside. Given the mess everywhere, I’d be leaning towards a spray of fluid from somewhere.

Just found this, but doesn’t really give any clues. Taking it apart using a lathe doesn’t bode well for that one ever going back together🤣

In the accident it looks like the driveshaft was ripped off the side of the box which must have put a lot of force on the dual clutch bit of the gearbox between the differential and the mounting to the engine. I’m wondering whether the casing has cracked or a gasket on one of the joints is leaking? Might be worth finding a YouTube video showing how the box goes together to look for places it might have gone.

Very useful @Gutley, looks like I may have to change the ignition switch soon as just had a weird one where radio and tiptronic gear indicator stayed on after I removed the key and the car refused to lock. After I restarted and took the key out it was fine, but suspect this will get worse.

2 minutes ago, ATM said:

Sounds like we need a pioneer to come along and forge new ground. To help prove to the keen DIY owners out there that it doesn't have to be that complicated. Someone with basic tools, a tiny bit of knowledge and a dangerous amount of confidence. 

You’re hired🤣

Have you topped it up before or got a garage to do it?

4 hours ago, ATM said:

I just stuck my finger in and then sniffed it - like a teenager .... cancel that - and it is not engine oil. Got a tangy smell to it. Would they be different colours then? I presumed the box and the diff shared the same fluid.

I'm pretty sure that will be diff oil as I've just realised that the PDK box won't have conventional ATF fluid in since it doesn't use a torque converter. Diff oil has a really distinctive smell, so 'tangy' probably confirms that. There is a separate reservoir for the clutches, but doubt it's that. Here's a guide to changing the diff oil which should give you some useful info in your fault finding.

https://rennlist.com/forums/987-981-forum/1080116-diy-gear-oil-change-on-981s-pdk.html

That's bad news🙁 When you say it smells like gearbox oil, do you mean like the old EP80/90 stuff which is very distinctive, if so this would likely be coming from the differential which I think is separate to the rest of the PDK box which would have ATF in it. Not sure why this should cause dodgy changes though🤔 Given that the driveshaft was ripped out of the differential, a bit of damage here is not unexpected. Good luck tracing the leak.

Could you put a container underneath so you can check the colour of the fluid coming out? 

39 minutes ago, ATM said:

The car now has an MOT and can be driven. So I'm hoping to collect it tomorrow.

Excellent news. Hopefully you'll get the bodywork sorted ready for the summer😎

17 hours ago, jim o'hara said:

well as its been mentioned earlier, the reason i am questioning (not just you) is that from the thread, there are lost of people spending money that is sometimes just for the sake of it

 

Certainly not disagreeing with you there, but each to their own. You can run these cars for very little if you want to and are reasonably lucky. My car mostly had just tyres and servicing between 70-100k which was three years motoring.

I suspect the reason for the large maintenance requirements of mine between 100-130k were that it was a daily driver and so out in all weathers. A weekend car on 60-70k should be relatively trouble free unless it's been neglected.

21 hours ago, jim o'hara said:

so probably neglected up to that mileage then

 

No, that's just when parts failed. The previous long term owner got it serviced to schedule and got any work advised done immediately. The reason they sold was that they couldn't justify continuing to spend that sort of money on it as a second car.

Not sure why you're finding this data so difficult to accept at face value?