Nobbie

3 hours ago, Cocky said:

I would be looking at your coil packs to make sure they're not all cracked on that bank & causing some kind of fault. 

I would just remove or unplug your MAF sensor and run the car without one. Plenty of 2.5 owners have done this in the past and just ran them without. 

Unless you have an obvious cracked manifold, joint or failed cat. I can't see why sealing the U bends would help if it's behind the 02 sensor by that much, it's no different to people with valved U bends & wouldn't throw up misfire codes. 

Genuinely would be looking at a little service, plugs & coils at least. 

Also I'd you do order from design 911 again use code TIPEC5 for 5% off its not much but it's something (don't slap me wrist Araf, I'm a Yorkshireman). 

Leaks anywhere after the O2 sensors can cause an MOT fail as air gets sucked in and is picked up by the sensor they shove up the exhaust which shows up as too high Lamda since there is lots of fresh air. I think valved exhausts get away with it as the valves are closed during MOT testing. Imagine running Mark’s old car at full chat in an enclosed space with the valves open🙉

It shouldn’t steam up really quickly, maybe check bottom of doors and under the carpet behind the seats for evidence of water ingress. Often the top of the carpet is fine, but the foam backing is soaked.

That’s amazing, I assume the OE one must have a lot of precious metals in them unlike the aftermarket ones. I’ve got a couple sitting in my shed🤔 £££

On 11/3/2021 at 8:08 AM, nick997 said:

I want to be pretty certain there’s a problem before speaking to the dealer, my more recent experience is that the default response is to quote to investigate any issue which then becomes void if a warranty fault is found. Since they have been unable to sell as many new cars dealers seem to be taking it out on existing customers via service charges. 

You any good with a multimeter? Could try popping the fuse and measuring the current to the seats and see if this corresponds to the expected current for the different settings. Need a chunky current capacity on the meter though. Many are 20A which may not be enough.

4 hours ago, brillomaster said:

identified why mine was stupidly loud - the connection between exhaust manifold and cat had split, and blown the gasket out. a new gasket and new hardware should sort it relatively easily.

That makes sense, the nuts and bolts tend to corrode away to nothing on that joint. If you’re doing it yourself it is useful to know that the bolts are pressed in place and a good hit with a centre punch while holding the joint together with mole grips can be needed to shift them. Worth doing the other side while you’re at it. Good luck.

Not an engine out job, but a pain in the ar*e. I was taking the PS pump out as well and had to loosen the intake on that side and remove some other gubbins to get decent access. The pipe goes to hard line before it reaches the pump and from memory requires some dismantling around it to enable it to be unscrewed. Good luck.

Just realised the title was ac pipes. I think they terminate in the same general area and suspect they should be removable in much the same way as the PS pipes. I think I had to unbolt the AC pump getting to the PS pump, so may be a bit easier.

6 hours ago, cptspaulding said:

I had the Kumho Ecsta PS91's on mine. Excellent for grip in the dry, no issues in the wet (although I'm loathe to push in wet). Wore out fairly quickly - poss my driving style?. My rears looked down to about 2-3mm after 7000 miles. Price was about 2/3 that of premium brands though.

Yep, pretty much my experience regarding wear rate, but mine is just for hooning😀 I found them very reassuring in the wet as well. I think mine were the PS71.

They look like cheap Chinese knockoff alloys. That’s a no from me.

23 minutes ago, Andy9376 said:

That sounds a bit more reasonable, thanks a lot. I assume it can’t be fixed then? 

Yes, that’s what happens with a recon unit, it’s just easier to have a replacement ready to fit, rather than have your car in pieces in a garage taking up lift space while they repair your unit and return it to you. Did they say what was wrong with the rack? You sometimes get issues with leaking connectors that some keen DIYers have had a go at fixing with mixed success from memory. If you’re not handy with the spanners then a recon unit or one from a breakers is probably your best bet.

@bally4563 may have one available for a small fee. Where are you based?

49 minutes ago, andy987 said:

It will feel nicer to drive with new tyres

Doesn’t seem like that’s much of an issue.

12 hours ago, Ol' Shatterhand said:

Hmm, as long as it doesn't look like you're pretending to be something you're not (an S, or a car with PCCB).

I’ve never understood the logic of this argument. The only people who would know that yellow is a signifier of PCCB is Porsche obsessive who would immediately spot a non PCCB calliper, so I think it’s fairly safe to say that those who paint them yellow are doing so for aesthetic reasons rather than trying to fool people that they’ve put a £30k brake system on a £3K car.

I have yellow callipers on my Zenith Blue 2.5 and really like them. Luckily I don’t attend Porsche Club GB events or they might all faint when they realised that they weren’t PCCB brakes😲. Generally I leave mine fairly standard visually (apart from the rust😢) mostly because I prefer driving it to messing with it.

41 minutes ago, Pezky said:

I can't imagine you could repair either unles you had another 718 bodyshell? Surely it'll be a insurance write off as the airbags have gone off?

The first one is unrecorded, so you could bodge it and sell without a cat marker. A lot of the bodging could be hidden behind trim panels and under trays, so unless you do a thorough inspection, you might miss it. They usually reveal themselves with lots of little defects that have been overlooked while the big issues are attended to. Can’t see how they got anywhere near £31k for the second one. What is a nearly new Cat S car worth?

Sheffield Porsche dealer if you can pick up, or Design 911 if you want it posted out. They have diagrams on their site where you can work out the part number.

This looks like the part if your’s is a 981

https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod133359/Porsche-981-Boxster-Cayman-Exhaust-Gasket-Manifold-to-Muffler-98111111300/

I’d just replace the nut and bolt and see how it went. No obvious damage to the gasket.

Might be worth upgrading the anti-roll bars if you want to improve cornering. Not sure if M030 spec are still available, but I think Design911 do uprated ones.

6 minutes ago, 944GS said:

Thanks for that, it was the rattling noise that went away when using the clutch, it made no difference to the squealing noise but there was no rattling at that stage.

Wonder if that might just be some effect of reducing the load on the engine allowing another resonance to setup somewhere. I noticed an increase in noise on mine on my way to a spirited run. Thrashed it for a couple of hours and then the water all dropped out when I stopped for a chat and turned the engine off. Got it recovered and the water pump pulley was very loose by that stage, but it held up ok for 2 hours, so yours should be ok for a gentle trip to the garage.

It does sound like the water pump. The squealing is probably the bearing starting to fail which then allows water to push past it. Not sure about the noise going away when pushing the clutch in. Top it up and driving gently at low revs to the garage should be fine. If you’ve removed the panel to inspect the belt, you might be able to feel some play on the water pump pulley if you get a lever of some sort in there.

50 minutes ago, deanmr2 said:

It is the same setup as the 987 with the first cat being integrated into the exhaust manifold and the second one just before the muffler as per design 911’s diagram 

Doh, I didn’t look at the diagram I posted properly. I am an idiot🙄. You learn something new everyday.

1 hour ago, deanmr2 said:

Hi Nobbie thanks for your reply my car definitely has two cats per bank could it be the 2.5’s and 2.7’s have one cat per bank and the 3.2’s have the two cats per bank not sure about that 

I’ve always thought they only got two cats per bank with the 987 where the first cat is part of the exhaust manifold. Not sure if this diagram will show correctly, but it is for a 2002 986S and shows only two cats in total, one each side. Not sure where the extra cat would go🤔

https://www.design911shop.com/pages/diagramsBrowser.aspx?categoryID=2&diagramID=3203

2002 Boxsters only have one cat on each bank unlike the 987, bypass this and it will never pass on emissions. Aftermarket SS manifolds improve the sound and replacing existing cats with ‘200 cell sports cats’ might help as well although these can be a bit iffy with emissions from memory.

Googling the part number shows an Amazon listing which confirms figment on the 986

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TRW-GS8706-Brake-Shoe/dp/B00DPHH9XQ
 

Maybe the brake shoe shown on the box is just generic?

I still don’t see how they could put 2 Litres of fluid in. If you look at this diagram the return line just goes into the reservoir and that’s not pressurised.

https://auto.howstuffworks.com/steering4.htm

Do you have a respected Indy near you that you could get it towed to, or even an OPC as they do classic rates on older cars.

Something doesn’t add up there. How would the return hose have enough pressure in it to burst the pipe? I’d be suspicious that they have damaged it during installation. Also I can’t see how you get 2 litres in. I burst a pipe, drove on for 200 mile and replaced the pipe and pump and didn’t need the whole 1 litre bottle I bought.

All I can think off is that for some reason the return pipe they fitted was blocked in some way (bung left in that prevents dirt ingress in transit) and that as they filled it with fluid the return pipe pressurised and ballooned allowing the extra fluid to go in until it failed.