Nobbie

https://i.imgur.com/WWFON5Y.jpeg

2 hours ago, map said:

I had the same symptoms and changed the Crank Position Sensor - that didn’t resolve it.

The problem didn’t produce an error code either. After bit of digging I changed the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) which is part of my accelerator pedal.

This cured the problem.

Depending on the car the TPS is either on the Throttle Body or the Throttle Pedal.

In your case @Rav I’d change the CPS and if that doesn’t chase the problem away change the TPS

That’s interesting as he said that pumping the accelerator seemed to have an effect.

17 minutes ago, Rav said:

Interesting- thanks Nobbie - Were are the relays? If they are up front, that might be what i heard click?

I'm not sure that it is a e- throttle - its a 2000 MY car with only 2 O2 sensors. 

 

 

I think they are on the drivers side under the dashboard above the fuse panel.

Wondering why the throttle would have any effect on starting🤔 Is it an e gas throttle? Doesn’t sound like a coil pack issue, these usually manifest in damp weather. Fuel pump maybe? Can you hear it priming when you turn on the ignition before a no start? Maybe a dodgy relay on the fuel pump? Seem to remember @Terryg had a dodgy pump which caused his car to run rough.

20 minutes ago, JonSta said:

I've never got 36 mpg. Even when I really tried. Might be time for plugs and points. And maybe a new distributor cap.

A de-coke is probably on the cards if it’s over 60k.

14 minutes ago, Everywhen said:

Update.

I went with a Toyosports exhaust, the Porsche Indy said he's fitted them before and they were OK. 

He was right, it sounded nice, some drone between 2300 and 3000 RPM, so I fitted a couple of dB Killers from eBay and the drone is gone without any detriment to performance, the car goes like the clappers.

I've done 450 miles with it now and the sound is getting better as the miles are added.

Glad you like it, they do get a lot of bad press, but for a weekend car the drone is not really an issue. I use mine without any further silencing and even coming back from Scotland on the M6 was no problem. I found it took about 1000 miles to tone down enough so that trips through town weren’t embarrassing.

That appears to be overdue the service due in November 2022. I assume you do a few longer drives rather than lots of short trips, hence it allowing almost 3 years between oil changes. Still seems a big gap though.

On 4/7/2023 at 11:30 AM, ½cwt said:

Some have tried to make different VAG part numbers work, as some online listings suggest they do, they don't.

I used a Golf MkIV lock module and it worked fine, just needed to trim one of the plastic bits. Plenty of people have used alternatives successfully.

Just a point I haven’t seen made yet, if the tensioner mechanism has failed due to ‘wear and tear’, could it be possible that it has put strain on the bolt that has caused it to shear? It doesn’t seem likely, but it would be worth confirming with the OPC that the tensioner itself is still in working order to exclude the possibility that this is a consequential failure from a wear and tear fault not covered by warranty.

Be careful with the ARB mounts. If they are similar to the 986, then you are bolting into an aluminium casting rather than steel so the possibility of stripping threads is much greater. Not sure what the torque spec is for these bolts, but some caution is required.

19” are available

https://www.alloywheelsdirect.net/porsche_alloy_wheels/boxster_987_gen_1_alloys

I think I win on this one🤣, My car is a 1999 that was used as a daily for the first 10-15 years of its life, so got plenty of road salt thrown at it. As a result all the brake pipes needed replacement and all the suspension bolts had to be cut to renew the suspension. It has also had some serious rust on part of the chassis in the centre towards the front. I hammered away the loose stuff and treated with some waxolyn, but I suspect I need to redo it again. Just waiting for space on my drive. I’ll take some photos and highlight the area for the benefit of others. I also remember some pretty nasty rust on the front metalwork supporting the front bumper that I also need to have another look at. Also got the rust spot below the air intake.

3 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

I always said these were 6-700 then a month ago some people had said they hadn't seen them for less than 1k. I guess C ovid has stuffed those prices also.

Sounds more like 987 hardtop money as they are rarer.

It does sound like a temperature sensor issue. If the temp sensor thinks the engine is hot it won’t richen the mixture, hence no starting. It’s a cheap part to replace, £10-15 from memory and accessible from the panel behind the seats, you’ve just got to be quick to avoid loosing too much coolant. Did you get the flashing light to indicate low coolant or did you just notice the expansion tank was low? You could have a leak unrelated to the non start. Here’s a thread with some useful info.

If you can get the pump to work by jumping the relay, why not try this while you crank it over with the key? Could eliminate the fuel pump as an issue?

For £8.50 it’s gotta be worth a punt. I’d go upto £20 for that one😉

Assuming it was £8.5k, I doubt you’d get anywhere near that amount back when selling. £2k maybe?

Something I noticed on mine before renewing the suspension was that the car felt very floaty on fast country roads as the dampers were really not doing much and I was basically just bouncing along on the springs with little damping going on. Mine had done 140k at that point though. I think it’s more the squeeks and rattles you remove by changing the arms, plus improve steering precision.

That looks a lovely car, similar colour to a 16v Mk2 Golf GTI which I wish I’d kept. It would be worth having the covers off underneath to get a good look at all the brake lines if they haven’t already been replaced. They are mostly hidden, so don’t always get picked up on the MOT.

😳, at that price I’d be making sure before buying a new one. I was thinking of the 986 where this is a common issue and new switches can be had for £30. Not so much of a punt to just replace it anyway.

Faulty ignition switches on these are quite common and manifest in various weird ways. The fact that yours starts from 1/3 and 3/4 way on the switch indicates something strange is going on. That’s not right. Plenty of threads on changing them if you search.

Here’s one

14 minutes ago, GmanB said:

Vaguely recall @Nobbie mentioning this. Had no idea it would go up in smoke and cease the engine. 😳

It happened to me on a BoXa.net Scotland trip. I was in the middle of of overtake and there was suddenly an enormous cloud of smoke coming out of the back of my car so I thought the engine had blown. No mention of tying the PS pipe out the way when buying the manifold. Luckily nothing caught fire and I managed the next 50 miles as a bit of resistance training, particularly in the slow sharp bends😳. Live and learn.

23 hours ago, Bike Loon said:

So when I got the car, both seats had colour missing on the sides of the seats. Not sure if it was from wear as the leather itself was not worn at all. I ordered some black seat leather dye which turned up today. I have only done 1 of the 2 coats required so far and its looking brilliant.

Picture from the auction

And this is after first touch up (ooerr missus)

Nice work with the leather dye, got to love an eBay bargain. I spent £20 on a bottle of liquid leather dye as I have the same issue on the drivers side bolster and I still haven’t got around to using it🙄

16 hours ago, ljcarr said:

I know people rate the Porsche exhaust, however it’s over £2000+ which I struggle with spending on a 2012 car, the topgear is £1500 fitted which still a lot in my mind but £500+ saving on the Porsche exhaust!

From a value for money angle, the PSE will add value to the car when you come to sell as evidenced by the comments on this thread, whereas an aftermarket exhaust may well reduce the value as people will be a bit wary of non-OE mods.

I’ve not heard anything about the Top Gear exhaust, but the standard Porsche Sports Exhaust on the 981 is widely liked on here and I don’t recall anyone regretting retrofitting it. Certainly when I’m following one on @Greenman or @CMA it sounds great.

Page 6 of my running report has the sizes for the clamps if you want to save on OPC prices and just source off eBay. Mine are still going strong 4 years later.