Nobbie

3 minutes ago, Boxsum said:

Ok, I cleared the fault codes this evening and then let the car idle till up to temperature then drove it up and down the drive a few times. It seemed to run fine. Checked for codes again and none stored, all clear. 
I guess if it’s running fine I’m not at this point going to find anything out by unplugging the MAF sensor, so from what has happened does this tend to lead to the coil packs?

I will take it out for a drive in daylight tomorrow to see if the problem reoccurs 

 

 

Yes, that would tend to point at old coil packs getting damp in them. When you said they were original, I assume you mean just in your ownership rather than from new😬. Mine are about 8 years old, so they’ve had a fair run.

Is yours fitted with an idle speed control valve like this.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305270425566?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=qnkst-znqde&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=bm3GNDcwRm6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

seems like an obvious candidate for a fault.

When you clear the codes, do they come back? I think I would be letting it idle with the occasional rev to come upto temperature to help drive off the moisture and then let it cool before checking if the issue is still there before getting into removing the engine cover etc. If this solves it, then it does strongly point to coil packs. When were they last changed?

I had similar recently after I’d not driven for a couple of weeks. My code reader diagnosed a misfire on Cylinder 3 which I put down to a dodgy coil pack getting some damp in the cracks while it was sat. The next day it started without a light, but didn’t seem right, so I drove it gently until fully warmed up and then left it. I think this cleared the damp and it’s been fine since. Could also be a loose connector on a coil pack. I had this a few weeks after changing them myself, but obviously didn’t push the connector home.

Same mileage as mine, be interesting to see what state it is in underneath. The engines seem to last well if they get regular oil change, but mine is suffering a bit of corrosion underneath due to being driven all year round on a commute for many years. Swings and roundabouts really. Looks in great condition from the photos, drive isn’t too bad considering it’s winter, but there is a weed in the exhaust photo😉

You’ll need to host them elsewhere and post a link here. I use Imgur which is free.

Rear brake pipes run from passenger side wheel arch and under the sill down the passenger side before going to the rear passenger wheel and over the gearbox to the rear drivers side. I think they might both be Air con pipes as there are high pressure/low pressure pipes going to pump on the engine. This is from page 8 of my running report and shows the layout.

If it’s hissing, then it’ll be the air con pipes, the other largish pipes are for the power steering, but they would just p*ss out fluid. On a 2004 car it would be advisable to have the plastic covers removed to check the condition of the brake pipes underneath as they are not checked on the MOT and can rust to failure point without even getting an advisory. I replaced mine after taking the covers off as they were on the point of failure despite no advisories on the MOT. If the worst happens and a pipe bursts, dual circuit brakes means that you should be able to stop, but I wouldn’t like to predict the result in an emergency braking situation😬

1 hour ago, bally4563 said:

There’s always one!!, Sometimes two , who have nothing better to do!! Makes you want to become a Primitive Methodist and spend Sundays nailing your Testicles to a plank!

But wouldn’t you miss it on the other six days?

Probably worth a chat with A Plan as they have a fair bit of experience with Boxsters having supported the site. Is it his only car, or a second car. Might be easier to insure on a classic policy perhaps?

2 hours ago, CMA said:

Just reading the workshop manual and its quite contradictory... these 2 information points are next to each other in the grinding down parking brake instructions....
 

 

 

So which is it, not necessary or must? 

Not necessary if you are just removing and re-installing same pads/discs, must if replacing worn out with new is my reading.

51 minutes ago, Blakey said:

Do you know which bit it is attached too, it looks like the whole door to me! If it it just a part that can be easily replaced,  (sounds like it from the £10-15 price) that looks like the answer...

Sorry, I thought the trim bit you removed had the broken bit on it. If it’s going to be tricky removing the trim, you could try gluing it with something like JB Weld Plastic Bonder which I used extensively when repairing the plastic bits that got snapped off my 107 headlights and bumper in a front end smash. Build up a bit of a fillet around the break to give a stronger bond as long as it doesn’t interfere with the top trim piece going on. It has a bit more give that straight epoxy which might just snap.

3 hours ago, fizz said:

I got a obd2 Bluetooth device and downloaded an app off Google play store called 'Car Scanner'...does what it says on the tin right. Lol

So it has real-time information as you're driving and works a treat.

That’s the one I used which generated this output

Currently having trouble even launching the Durametric software on my crappy old laptop.

Check the price of a new one at the OPC. I broke mine on a 986 and it was surprisingly reasonable, something around £10-15 from memory. I did try gluing, but it broke immediately.

3 hours ago, bally4563 said:

Should never left home , had three goes of leaving , but didn’t want to let @Nobbie down. Especially when you make the effort to get up early 

You should fit a toilet roll holder to your passenger door. It would get a fair bit of use judging by recent trips😀

7 minutes ago, Nobbie said:

Don’t know about the 987, but the 986 should come with a tool. I think I’ve used a torx screwdriver on it before. The tool is a hexagonal profile about 7-8mm across.

Actually, it might have been a small socket from my 1/4” socket set.

Don’t know about the 987, but the 986 should come with a tool. I think I’ve used a torx screwdriver on it before. The tool is a hexagonal profile about 7-8mm across.

19 hours ago, Hoster987 said:

First of all, if you are just above the min then nothing to worry about.

My 2005 987 was below MIN (which I just noticed since the purchase back in Apr but no cooling / temp issues) and filled with Valvoline / Zerex G40 which seems to be the go-to, pink coolant here in the US (and easily available on Amazon).  Just FYI, although mine was well below MIN, I only had to use about half-quart to bring the level just above MIN (where the letter MIN is).

 

Boxsters don’t use consume coolant and are generally filled upto just below max when refilled by a garage. If it’s got to the min level then there’s a leak and something to worry about. Yours is clearly leaking somewhere to get below min, so I’d fill it up to max while I investigated the leak. Top trouble spots are water pump, from crossover pipes and expansion tank. Leaving it that low when you have a leak is risky.

30 minutes ago, Mike1960 said:

I agree that the exhaust is easy to remove, IF, the manifold bolts can be removed. You should be able to see if they are looking bad once the rear wheels are off.

Not sure about 986, but you can get decent used stock exhausts for 987.2 fairly cheap. Lots of people change them out for more vocal types. I got one a couple of years ago off eBay, complete with tail pipe, from a vehicle that had only done 40K miles for £40. So possibly worth keeping your eyes open used ones.

Exhausts can be TIG welded by a good welder. The seems should have enough metal that they won’t blow through when welded.

Good luck with your projects. 

No need to remove manifold to get the back box off, just remove the clamps either side and unbolt the bracket supporting the back box.

I think it would only fail if there were an appreciable escape of exhaust gases. They’re not that hard to remove once you’ve got the bumper off which is pretty straightforward. If you took it off at home you could take it to a welder and see if they could patch it up to keep it going for a couple of years.

For the sake of £50, you could get it MOT’d now and if it fails at least you know what work you’ve got to do while it’s off the road.

Impressive work at this time of year on the driveway👍

3 hours ago, Bill Grant said:

It was advertised as reading Live (actual) Sensor Data values for instance an O2 sensor and Mass Flow versus RPM.  There were check boxes for many items none of which reported anything. 

I went on Google and found a number of people experiencing the same.  They all quoted poor response from Durametric Support.  Gendan (the uk supplier) were happy for me to exchange.  Just received the Foxwell so shall try it over the weekend

I’ve never tried that on mine, although I have managed it on a cheapo OBD dongle to look at the O2 sensor waveforms. I’ll have a play tomorrow to see if it’s on mine (bought in US I think)

33 minutes ago, Bill Grant said:

Am just about to acquire a Foxwell 680.  I'll let you know...

I had a Durametric which though it could read alarm codes did not read "actual values" - the main reason I bought it !

Hence I returned it.  I've purchased an ODBII to USB cable so I'll start to delve myself when I have the time an inclination 

What do you mean by ‘actual values’, mine gave a codes followed by a description of each error code which was enough to identify the fault, in my case a faulty door lock.

43 minutes ago, phazed said:

Mine is a 2002 car.

Have no idea what is facelift and what isn’t.

I can’t even look at the dashboard as the car is up in the air on my two post lift and I haven’t driven it since buying it! 
Did I read somewhere that you can look up what specification and extras a car came with?

If it has a glovebox then it’s a facelift. I think the facelift came in with the 2002 model year.

On 9/20/2023 at 7:46 PM, mr.tourette23 said:

I still have notifications coming in from when I was looking, definitely seeing S models coming down in price to what base were at 6 months ago, a nice red S just popped up at a dealer in Solihull for 26900 which was unheard of when I was looking in March/April with a 27k budget

Still for sale and dropped below £26k now. Seems like a nice car with a decent amount of Porsche warranty on it. Doesn’t look like much is selling at present unless there is something dodgy in the history of that one. There was a nice blue one with PSE and full dealer history that did seem to sell at about that price fairly quick.