Nobbie

1 hour ago, Dettagliomd said:

I offered £3250 but think coolant tank needs replacing too. So another £500. on balance I think I’d rather spend the extra £ and get a well sorted one. My instinct is a) the mileage is very high and b) the car has been looked after but not loved. On that basis and with the benefit of everyone’s kind input, I’m out. I have found a nice car for around £10k and that what I’m going to buy. Cheers everybody. 

Probably a good decision, it would be irritating to end up spending £££ on it and it still only being worth £4K because of the mileage.

2 hours ago, gripper said:

Success! eventually, with a trickle charger on the +post and door catch it gave enough oomph for the key fob (with new battery) to turn off the alarm. Quick swap of batteries and the car has been brought back to life. This reminds me why I like old things with SU carbs! 

So this week, purchase battery management unit and book in for a once over at local specialist. 

Then, locate the frunk emergency release and fix the fuel filler emergency release which came out when I pulled it. 

 

Pop out the headlights and you should be able to see the silver cable right at the back.

If the battery is really dead, you may need to leave a battery connected for a while before trying to operate the frunk, or maybe try charging through the fuse box connection with a trickle charger for a couple of hours, does the alarm eventually go off? Will really annoy the neighbours otherwise.

Is that first service in 2004? Given what looks like 10 years of 4-5k a year and only changing the oil every 4 years, I doubt the engine is going to be a particularly long lived example and may already have substantial bearing wear. Having said that, with regular changes from now on it could well last as long as you keep it. If it drives well and has been looked after by recent owners it’s probably worth a punt for the right price, but get an oil test done when you get it serviced to see if there are any hidden issues of bearing wear and be ready to punt it on to WBAC if there are.

14 minutes ago, JonSta said:

I went there today but the guy is off with a bad back. They showed me parts that would do exactly what that picture shows. In my mind I was imagining a straight pipe between the two boxes a bit like the one on the stock system. I kind've think that the earlier it is in the system the better it might work but I might be wrong.

I’m sure someone on here tried connecting the output pipes together, but I don’t think it was hugely successful. I’ll have a search around see if I can find it.

Have a look on page 6 of my running report where I replace these clamps for the info.

Good work @Jakeb, love to see people getting stuck in👍

38 minutes ago, jonogt6 said:

My dual row 2.5 bearing fell apart. Just thought I'd let you know😏

You’ve been very unlucky there, but it’s not a common enough occurrence on the 2.5 to make it the go to diagnosis when oil is leaking from the bell housing. Best to eliminate all other possibilities before shelling out 10 hours labour just to pull the Tiptronic box before you even start looking at the bearing.

What year, engine, mileage? As above, if it looks in good condition just leave it as you are more likely to introduce an issue by changing it IMHO.

Just checked your posts and it’s a 2.5 Tiptronic just like mine. The 2.5 has the dual row bearing which doesn’t have an issue with failure unlike the layer single row bearings. The oil leak you are seeing may be from the RMS, but don’t discount a leak from higher on the engine that has run down to the bell housing. The 2.5 has plastic spark plug tubes with rubber seals which can fail, so worth checking these as it’s a pretty straightforward job to replace, whereas it’s a big job to remove the tip box😬

1 hour ago, Tycho said:

Unfortunately, I need an exhaust asap. The Gravity Performance one looks favourite at the moment.

 

Whereabouts are you based? I’ve got a 2.5 exhaust in the shed that I replaced with a Toyosport. It’s got a broken baffle inside, so is slightly louder than standard, but quieter than one with a bypass.

Mine is just a weekend toy, but I wouldn’t be without the A/C. Good for demisting, motorway runs with top up, in town on very hot days with the roof down. Had mine 5 years and only ever given it a top up of gas once. Plenty of cars out there, I’d look for another.

1 minute ago, bally4563 said:

As I said a very emotive subject open to a great deal of debate.  Not ever going to  knock a 986 got me in the saddle so to speak.. but for me a 987 just makes the experience that more enjoyable 

I suppose you welcome the comfort when you’re getting on a bit😀

The joints on the exhaust can leak and drag in air which throws off the lamda value. I had this on mine, replaced the joints and it passed.

If you fancy having a tinker, there is a lot to be gained by doing a job like this as you see lots of bits of the car that you normally ignore and it gives you a chance to do additional work while you are there such as exhaust. Worth bearing in mind that Revolution Porche in Yorkshire will do a clutch change for £720 all in with £99 extra for the RMS.

You say you have a tool for attaching the gearbox to the jack to lower/lift which would be miry main concern. Do you also have a nice flat working area, preferably indoors at this time of year?

55 minutes ago, 2bmws said:

Does anyone know a rough idea how much this will cost to sort please

I think it’s booked as 12 hour to take out and replace the gearbox, so that’s about £2k at main dealer labour rates before even starting work on the box. Maybe try somewhere like Revolution or Precision Porsche who will have a lower labour rate, but still know their way around the car for any shortcuts.

On a 22 year old Boxster, most sensible people buy on condition, MOT history and evidence of recent work. You can have a fully stamped book, but have ignored every recommendation for additional work until pulled on it by an MOT fail.

Well done for getting it sorted. Some jobs are just absolute pigs. When you mentioned inlet manifolds I knew it would be a bugger. Had to remove one of these on mine to replace a power steering hose😩

Probably down to the average age of the cars that people are getting warranties on. I can imagine many people buying 20 year old Porsches and thinking a Warranty Wise policy will protect them from the costs of a poorly maintained car. I wonder if the figures are based on claims made or actually paid out? There might be a bit of a delta there🤣

24 minutes ago, Photogirl said:

Thanks - what do you think the life expectancy might be? 

Mine went after 20 years and 145k, but only 5k in my ownership. I suspect a lot depends on how you drive your car. I thrash mine at high revs a lot, so suspect this shortens the life. One of the reasons I fitted an under drive pulley to reduce the load on the pump and other ancillaries.

Presuming that are these

https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod13619/KW-Variant-3-Adjustable-kits-Porsche-987-Boxster-11-2004------987C-Cayman-01-2006--/

The blurb says 30-60mm drop😳 which strikes me as aimed at track use, even if they are set at their smallest drop I think you will struggle. My 986 is MO30 which is 10mm drop and I wouldn’t want it any lower given the roads I drive. I’m not sure if any factory mods from Porsche for road use are more than 20mm. Seem to remember a guy came out with us once on -30mm springs and left halfway through😬. Do you do much track work?

23 hours ago, Paul P said:

Depending on the road and the conditions I have found my daughters Peugeot 107 a bit too fast on occasions. 
 

 

Tell me about it🙁

5 hours ago, 987 2.7 said:

Update - gave her a good run this morning and had the fault cleared. So far so good. It did however, indicate a previous fault related to the gear selector switch ( cheers Matt ! ) so we’ll have to monitor that. 

I had something similar on mine after a period of low use and some damp within the car. I reset it a couple of times, but it came back. It was only after sorting out the damp and giving it a good long run that it resolved itself. I assume it was just a slightly dodgy contact in one of the microswitchs in the gear selector.

I’ve heard these guys get a few recommendations on here, no experience myself. https://www.westlancsautoelectrics.co.uk/product/porsche-boxster-2-90-2009-2012-starter-motor/

41 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

Quite a few issues including more than one member on this site alone who fitted a cheap aftermarket module and it deadlocked. The drivers door locked and would not unlock.

It is quite simply not worth the risk and I will never fathom why someone would fit a cheap crucial part to a Porsche when an original used one can be had for £40.

 

Do a job once, do it right.

Using a used part that could be 20 years old isn’t doing it right. If the original OEM part failed after 20 years, there’s a reasonable chance the one from the scrappy will too.

If Porsche say it’s good, then unless you’re tracking it regularly I’d leave it until some component in the coolant system needs replacing and do it then.