Nobbie

4 minutes ago, Sanky said:

So left the car unlocked and the front open with a trickle charger.  All lights went out after a couple of hours.  So the problem is with the door lock module.

I’m thinking the drivers side, as it’s the one that’s used most and the fact the passenger door hasn’t been opened in awhile.

So next question, are the VW door lock modules any good?

I replaced mine with a Golf Mk5 lock and it’s been fine in the 2-3 years since. I did need to trim off a bit of plastic before fitting as otherwise it would have jammed. Easy enough to see when you compare with original. I seem to remember that I had to check whether 7 or 8 pins were present in the current lock to ensure I ordered the right one, maybe a MkIV lock for the 7 pin?

7 minutes ago, Shippers01 said:

Thanks. Last week i had to jump start it as would not quite turn over. Been using it every day since and been fine. Did not take it out yesterday. Would not start this morning so jumped no problem but after driving about for 20 mins now will not start!!!! Hoping just battery may be knackered!!

A good indication is how long it takes to charge up. A good battery fully discharged will take several hours to fully charge the 100 AH capacity. 4 amps * 25 hours. Check the charging current of your charger. If it shows fully charged in a few hours then it’s goosed. If you’re not sure, leave it for a day after charging and then see if it takes charge again as that shows it’s internally discharging which means it’s goosed.

To avoid alarm going off, just put key in ignition and turn to first position. You can then remove battery. On mine I can then remove the key, but I think on some you would have to poke something into a hole on the ignition barrel to release the key. Make sure you know your radio code and wind the drivers window down and back up to reset the auto drop before closing the door. Check the date code on the battery to see if it’s worth replacing it now before it let’s you down again.

Fuchs Titan Super syn has the Porsche A40 approval,and works for me.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUCHS-TITAN-SUPERSYN-5W-40-FULLY-SYNTHETIC-5-L-ACEA-A3-B4-ULTRA-PERFORMANCE-/165163114864?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Think repair putty will just blow out as soon as the joint warms up. Probably need to replace gasket and new nuts and bolts after you’ve managed to remove the old ones which are a pig. Have a search using ‘exhaust flange bolts’ and select ‘all terms’ as plenty have given it a go themselves.

Here’s one with some part numbers

5 minutes ago, graham964 said:

Thanks Nobbie for your feedback.

I got into the frunk after an hour on the charger.

Based on what you say regarding the microswitch and a need for power you really could have a big problem which may only be addressed by the wheel removal method which could be very tricky to deal with if the locking wheel nut is locked in the car.

This is the first time this has happened to me in 15 years of of Porsche ownership so hopefully it won't happen again any time soon, although in my 996 I redirected the hidden cable for easier access to the frunk and maybe I will consider doing the same thing again assuming I can find it.

Graham

 

 

Yes, I had to remove my front wheel, but luckily I was at home and had the locking key in the house at the time. After this happened I removed the locking wheel nuts as theft of alloy wheels doesn’t seem to be a thing any more and mine are nothing special.

Unlucky, but as you’re into the car you should be fine hooking up via the fuse box in the unlikely event a few hours on the charger doesn’t work.

I have a feeling that the key operates a microswitch in the lock which then opens the door, so power is needed to unlock.

good luck👍

Mines a 1999 Tiptronic with 158k on it and the only issue I have with the gearbox is that it doesn’t show it in ‘park’ on the display so I have to start it in neutral. Never bothered me enough to fix it. Apart from that the gearboxes have a good reputation for reliability. I’d be wary of paying much more than the present bid for it given the costs outlined above.

If you don’t mind a manual, this one’s a runner which needs a bit of work for around £3k

15 hours ago, the baron said:

Don’t be scared of high milers or lots of owners, these engines are robust and lots of owners means it’s been spoilt during the honeymoon period

I think as long as they get regular oil changes, the engines are good for high mileages. Mines done almost 160k without any major work, but expect the first thing to go will be something in the valve timing area such as chain guides/variocam.

Didn’t yours have some major work done in this area?

Don’t think you can do it on ramps as you need the hub free to move. Just need the back on axle stands. Fairly straightforward forward unless the through bolt at the chassis end (no other nut that end) is corroded into the bush sleeving, in which case you’ll need a reciprocating saw to cut through the bolt. You might need a ‘pickle fork’ to get the lower ball joint out of the hub. When fitting the new arm, you need to jack up the hub so it is at usual road going height before torquing up the inner through bolt or it puts undue strain on the bush rubber when you finally lower the car back onto it’s wheels.

22 minutes ago, boxtastic said:

This thread got me thinking of doing an early clutch & gearbox fluid renewal on my 981 when it goes for a service in a couple of weeks.  My car will be 10 years old in July & has just turned over 72k.

I’ve not heard it mentioned before, but my indie has suggested replacing the sump pan as well; which contains an integrated oil filter. Who knew!?

The pan/with filter, is circa £200 but on a car without a warranty, it seemed like a no-brainer to me

If Porsche don’t have it as part of the service schedule, maybe it’s not required? It seems like introducing a weak link as the original sump will be factory sealed and not sure an indie is necessarily going to seal the replacement up as well. Can’t see any reason that the filter should need replacing as what would be clogging it up? 

Standard unleaded for me. Never noticed any difference using anything else and it goes quite fast enough.

8 hours ago, funbobby said:

One was £1150 all in and other was £1250 all in. I was hoping for around the £900 mark give or take..

Those are ridiculous prices, assume you are in London/southeast?

Revolution would do it for £671 inc VAT

https://www.revolution-porsche.co.uk/servicing/boxster-987#additional-maintenance

I had to replace the windscreen on my 986 a month ago and went with Autoglass through my insurance. Turned up with OE screen. Invoice was £1300😳

Turn ignition to first position before swapping. If you know the radio code I don’t think you need to keep the power live, particularly since your battery was already dead. You just need to drop the windows a couple of inches while the doors open and then close for the to relearn the stop limits. I disconnect by battery between drives, and this always works fine.

It won’t hurt to re torque them, but if they are OE gaskets they shouldn’t need doing unless they weren’t fitted right in the first place. I used some aftermarket ones that came with SS manifolds and they needed re torquing about 3 times as they are made of some weird spongy aluminium.

As above, you’re gonna have to bleed it anyway, so why not just put a big container to catch it all when you disconnect and then just refill with this. Has the advantage that you need to put all the fluid that came out back in, so can tell if you have any air locks.

Check for code 490, this is sound package plus and has the door speakers, amp and cd changer I think. The thing in the middle is the amp and the cd changer goes on that bulkhead on the right where the wiring is. Maybe it went faulty at some point and was removed?

3 hours ago, Chukkieegg said:

It's back waterpump and drive belt oh and antifreeze

Another £306 pound it just eats money 😂 

TBH, that’s a decent price, it could have been a lot more at many other places.

9 minutes ago, ATM said:

The 981 does have a cooler according Google  987 does not.

Let’s hope it’s one of those that has been bashed during the accident👍

10 hours ago, ATM said:

Finally made some effort to get the leak looked at or fixed. Spoke to a couple of garages. No one seems interested. Found one willing to give it a go that is reasonably local. Still waiting for confirmation so I can drop it off. Guy said it might be the clutch fluid pipe. I didn't even know there was a clutch fluid pipe so fingers crossed now that they will book me in and that it is the clutch pipe.

 

I felt bad looking at the state of my soft top which is all sorts of nasty as it's not been cleaned for years. Then found a half cover for sale second hand so I've bought it. If I can get the leak fixed then cleaning will come shortly after.

 

Out of curiosity has anyone tried a little lithium ion battery in their 981?

Not sure there is on yours. I think there might be pipes on the 911 cars which have a clutch fluid cooler. Soon find out.

38 minutes ago, Chukkieegg said:

So a week after my mot issues now been stuck in the kerb side waiting recovery truck since 445 this afternoon think either drive belt or water pump or both have failed

I am now ready to torch it

Unlucky. When the water pump goes, it can often throw off the belt as the pulley will be wobbling all over the place. Any sign of water under the car?

8 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Same error I made @Nobbie, wrong end of the engine this is at the gearbox end...

I didn’t see the OP confirm the location of the drip.

13 minutes ago, MarkyRR said:

Apologies guys, I didn’t want/expect this thread to turn into another “missing ppi report”, rather deal with the issue of my car.  The water/coolant thing is very strange as it doesn’t seem to evaporate, but with the temperature etc I’m not if it would too quickly anyway, especially with coolant/antifreeze in it.

I’m still waiting for my Indy (I may make more phone calls tomorrow), but I’m just confused.  The car sounds/drives perfectly, holds temperature fine, no drop in oil level on dipstick or the computer, note has the coolant level dropped that I can see.

It might just be a crack in the expansion tank or the early stages of pump failure. As the pump bearing fails, the increased clearance allow a bit of water past. This will first manifest itself when you turn the engine off and the heat soak raises the pressure in the cooling system. A few drips isn’t going to be noticeable on the level.

41 minutes ago, Rav said:

Thanks all. 

I decided to take the car to drop my daughter off at uni this morning. It was fine until the M25 and then i started to feel a slight hesitation once in a while. We pressed on and thankfully when leaving the M25 it stalled at the roundabout. It started straight back up and we were safe. 

After the drop of it decided to play silly again near Ascot. Kangaroo jumping around all over the place. Even pressing the 'loud' pedal does nothing when it is one of those moods 🙂

I noted that idle can be a bit erratic before and after an episode. 

My daughter sent me a link to this: https://daseuropeanautohaus.com/symptoms-of-a-failing-porsche-mass-air-flow-sensor/

As some of you above have said - this is the likely culprit. Now where to get one that wont cost me £500!!

Try the MAF disconnect first to see if the issue goes away, but it sounds more like an issue with the fuel pump or fuel pump relay which may not throw a code either. Crank position sensor is another possibility, but you usually need to let the car cool down before they will restart if it was this.