Greenman
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Posts posted by Greenman
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seem to be plenty on eBay, these claim to be genuine Porsche and give a part number.
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2 hours ago, Davey P said:
Not comparing like-for-like because mine is a 2.7 and manual 'box, but I paid 12 grand less than that earlier this year, so the price seems a bit punchy to me. Then again, prices seem to have been all over the place this year, so maybe that is the going rate now.
Well it’s the cheapest on Autotrader at that mileage or lower so I’d say the price is competitive with the current market.
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21 hours ago, Stuno1 said:
If funds allowed this would be in my garage already.
This actually looks like a reasonable price for a well specced car with a low ish mileage from a dealer (albeit not an OPC) in the current climate
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If it was just two I could have it would be PASM and PSE. However SC isn’t really retrofittable whereas PSE is (£2000-2500). If you do regular track work then SC becomes more of a must have. I rarely use Sport+ unless bone dry in the summer, though as mentioned it does give more control over the traction control with an extra level between sport and off. PASM is great and when on a spirited drive sport Mode PASM really tightens up the back end. Those who don’t have PASM seem perfectly happy so overall I think the general history is more important, ideally get one with all three🤑
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It does seem bizzare as a higher pressure gives a reduced contact patch. Smaller sidewall should be stiffer, extra pressure should not be needed. The advantage of wider tyres generally is it allows you to run lower pressures and increase the contact patch.
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Yeh just looking at my spare console switch it doesn’t look like that switch is designed to remove, it’s a pretty snug fit in its surrounding. I guess if it’s missing at least you could see how the tabs/connectors work, if it is going to come out it looks like it would need some very thin shims to get between switch and surroundings.
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Well I’ve never seen that before. I hope you don’t have to buy the whole centre console switch. This switch comes as programmable and has to be configured to your car (I.e whether you have PASM, Chrono, PSE) and is over £150 before the programming cost.
Note I have a console switch you could possibly bastardise which I could sell you somewhat cheaper. But hopefully there are some actual button options available, but given it’s not supposed to come off this option may not be available.
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Both done under warranty for me….But @CMA is just going through this at the moment. I believe the units are of the order of £950 a side with 3-4 hrs Labour on top.
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Don’t assume it’s just going to be the 12-14 that has this issue. Mine is a 15 and has had both mounts replaced. There aren’t as many 15 and 16 981s so it might just be that that accounts for the perceived lower number of failures?.
The steering issues seem much less common as far as I can see. There have been a couple of instances on here, and a few elsewhere but nothing like the level of mount failures, especially given that all cars have the rack and only Chrono cars have the mounts.
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41 minutes ago, BrianJ said:
How do you come to have the motor?
I had to have my steering rack replaced due to it being bent by an impact on a front wheel when stationary (a trailer backed into my wheel, HINT - don’t leave your wheels on full lock when you leave the car, they are very susceptible to this when on full lock). I kept hold of the old rack and stripped off the motor (which there was no issues with) before I junked the bent rack.
The problem with OPCs is that they are prone to recommend a whole unit replacement in this type of case. Unless there is actually a physical problem with the rack (as in my case) then I can’t see why the whole rack should need replacing.
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If the issue turns out to be the assistance motor. I have one of these I could let you have for a very reasonable price.
it seems nonsense that you should have to replace the whole rack for an issue like this, there shouldn’t be anything physically wrong with the rack itself, it must be either the motor, or electronics (wiring or control module).
make sure you try the solution from the second post in this thread first.
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Fault code
in 981
There’s a couple of Carsoft units on the for sale section, you could see if they are still available.
there’s this v1 version
or this Version two unitOr maybe one of the really cheap odb2 readers will do the job? Like this:
Alternatively maybe a really cheap unit will do the job:
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9 minutes ago, ½cwt said:
Go with what you want, not with what we'd want. It is your car! Just remember design trends go in cycles if you go too far off piste but classic looks remain constant.
Absolutely this.
These cars aren’t super low number collectibles with a big premium for originality, but if you make it too ‘individual’ don’t be surprised if others aren’t as enamoured.
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The oem arrangement is for pressed fit bolts in the cat side and nuts on the muffler side. As Daz suggests, these are made of chocolate (I suspect the main issue is their location probably results them being regularly coated in road grime/water/salt etc) it’s unlikely this particular issue would occur because they just rust and rot away instead. It’s lucky for you if these have already been replaced with stainless steel so you just need a replacement nut and bolt (and maybe gasket).
I guess the question is how do you stop this happening with replacement Stainless bolts as different materials subject to heat cycles and vibration could always result in this outcome!
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Congrads, fab car, I like GT Silver😍.
45mpg is a great effort, must have been down hill all the way! I have averaged 40 a couple of times but never got anywhere near 45.
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I ran mine all the way across the top of the windscreen and down the A pillar adjacent to the windscreen, you then though have the same issue at the bottom of the A pillar as you run the cable across the top of the dash (pressed in a crevice but still visible). Take your choice.
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I updated mine from 14 to 18 a couple of years ago via a guy on eBay, there’s a thread on here about it as around 10 people did it at the same time. I use Nav regularly and have no issues with it, it works fine. The only major pain is stop offs/waypoints etc which are implemented in a very unintuitive way and only allow 4 stopoffs. Additionally there’s no easy mechanism for importing or exporting routes to a PC or similar.
Having said that, I wouldn’t pay to update to 18 now as an update is probably due in next few months and you would be better off updating to the 2021/22 version.
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On 9/12/2021 at 10:22 PM, moospeed said:
I've got it but it's no longer on my list of requirements for the next purchase when that occurs, with the dynamic mounts it's more of a liability. For me, just Sports (not +) and manual mode works best for a countryside hack. With Sports+ I would always pick manual before selecting as the auto option is just nuts if you're not on a race track.
Generally agree with this.
I got to admit I do prefer the look of the dash with the clock on.
I would like to drive one without SC back to back with mine to see if the active mounts do make any noticeable difference to spirited handling or vibration transfer to the cabin in ‘comfort’. In theory that’s the main SC benefit. In addition it does give you some more control over the traction control, though to be honest I’m more than happy in PDK manual mode and ‘sport’ setting as my goto spirited driving setup.-
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7 minutes ago, CMA said:
I've just emailed my local OPC and got this reply:
"I have checked your chassis and happy to confirm the recall is not applicable to your car."
That’s interesting, as your car falls into that date ranged Sept12-July14 does it not?
We’ve had this before though haven’t we, where the USA seems to get special treatment over Europe/ROW, due, I expect, to the litigious nature of their society, and potential high cost of being found guilty of any negligence. They possibly think such costs are unlikely in ROW.-
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Soot & MPG
in 987
For the runs that we do I tend to get 18-20 as well (though counting my more sedate journeys up there and back I usually average 22-25 overall)
for last fridays run I was averaging 40mpg when I stopped at the Trout before our start, but those hill climbs and tight sections really don’t help mpg.
As for soot - as we discussed, a nice even coating soon develops on your tailpipes😀
A decent coat of wax on the rear bumper should mean the soot easily wipes off the bumper.
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I had a similar experience a few weeks ago after a spirited run out one Saturday morning. I initially thought (as you) it was a puncture, then Thought it must me air con coolers or a radiator burst, but no fluid loss and air con was still cold and water temp fine. The only thing I can think now is that it was the fuel filler vent which must have been blocked/stuck and suddenly released to suck a load of air in (location of noise, type of noise and duration seem to support this and I can’t think of anything else!.
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Shoot up protection tends to be where there is no permanent role over hoops, obviously there are hoops and windscreen here.
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https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=23&t=1949180
Doesn’t really say anything we don’t know, but might just strengthen prices even more.
Poll - 981 reliability thread
in 981
Posted · Edited by Greenman
I’ve had my 981S. 6 years and done 30k miles I’ve had the following issues all fixed under warranty, none caused the car to be undriveable.
- replacement PSE due to stuck actuators (5 year old /30k miles). Approx £2500.
- Active drivetrain mounts. Both replaced at around 15k and 22k miles. £1000 part + 3-4 hrs Labour (each)
- Interior fan resistor/regulator pack replacement. Under £500.