Deano37

1 hour ago, Stevie-Wonder said:

Hi Fellow members thanks all very much for great responses will try to find a skilled welder!!

Deano-37 what value to you put on the exhaust ?

Hi, £275 for left/right and the joint.

It has some surface rust spots as to be expected, in fine working order when removed. Photos below after a quick wipe over and hose down. If you need more photos of specific areas let me know. 

Welcome to Boxster ownership  

If the welding doesn't work out, I do have mine that was taken off last year for sale.

Its from a 3.2S 2005. Has some surface rust but no holes and hasn't been repaired. Only removed to fit a valved version.

Ordered a couple of Kumho PS91 for the rear via Camskill @£271 delivered.

Noticed the rear was very twitchy on a short run out on Sunday, so thought I would treat her to some new boots  

Put the gearbox back in, refitted the exhaust and rear bumper etc. after replacing the IMS flange seal.

Started first time. Just needs a good clean ready for taxing tomorrow and having a first run out. Can’t wait 😉

16 minutes ago, Macus said:

This was my exact problem. 
rubber connection to the vac pump had perished so I replaced with a short run of silicone hose and put the ‘tekalan’ line into it. 
worked on the button. 👍🏻

Glad you got it sorted 👍🏻

I had the same issue after fitting mine, no vac.

I traced the pipe that feeds the solenoid that you need to tap into, you will need to take the engine cover off in the cabin, it goes to a connection on the bottom right hand side (looking directly at the pulleys), mine had sheared off and was just hanging there. I managed to glue the bit that the pipe slides onto back together and everything worked after that.  

17 hours ago, JonSta said:

How did you come to this conclusion? Reason I ask is like most S owners I have a bit of oil around that area. Did you have the 'box out?

Yes. Previously replaced clutch, flywheel and RMS. After a few months noticed a small patch of oil on drive and gradually getting worse, thought RMS was still leaking. 
Removed gearbox and RMS is bone dry but oil collected around bottom of IMS.

Not something I wanted to do, but it was too much oil to leave it alone.

37 minutes ago, JonSta said:

Why did you embark on this perilous journey?

Thought i had a leaking RMS seal but turns out its oil leaking from the IMS flange seal.

Been trying all morning to get the nut off, but it will nut budge with the limited purchase on the shaft. Tried to make the slot in the shaft deeper but no different.  

Attempted to replace the IMS flange seal.

Locked at TDC and locked the cams, removed the tensioners but couldn't undue the nut on the IMS shaft.

The slot to hold the shaft with a flat blade screw driver is not deep enough to get a good purchase on it, so trying to undue the nut just causes the shaft to turn as well.

Will have another try tomorrow and hope i have more luck.  

Not sure if this helps. 1st pic is with 15mm at the rear and 7mm at the front, not lowered.

2nd pic is after fitting H&R 30mm springs.

I tried 20mm on the rear to start with, but looked to much. 15mm & 7mm are perfect IMO.

I got the clutch and flywheel from Carpartsbargins via Ebay, Oct 2020 @£418 for both.

States clutch as Sachs 3000 951 014 and LUK flywheel 415 0120 10.

Only set i can see on Ebay now is sold via Techniclutch @ £846.

Not sure if that helps?!

SORN'd for the winter  .

Now to start looking at what mods i can do over the winter months  

Centre console removal and colour change 1st on the list.

Passed MOT, no advisories  

Replaced my standard one to make it sound louder. Think of it as a free modification! 😃

Recently re did mine as i hadn't fitted it correctly the first time 🙄

The end of the AOS hadn't seated correctly into pipe No.10 on the above diagram. After a few months the car would have a cloud of blue smoke on pretty much every start up, enough to be embarrassing!

I brought the following to hold open the clamp No.9, made it a lot easier https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0769X7DFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No more smoke now 👍

At last I got my Designtec switched exhaust working!

Even since fitting the exhaust I have never been able to get it to switch (stuck in loud mode), so decide to try and find out why.

After taking the plenum and associated parts of, i traced the vacuum pipes and the pickup from the vacuum pump hose had a snapped pipe fitting. Manufactured a repair and it now works a treat!  

Also found that the AOS had not been seated correctly since i replaced it a few months ago, bottom pipe had not pushed into the hose correctly, hoping that is the culprit for my puff of blue smoke sometimes on 1st engine start.

@2001pt

Thanks for the link to the post.

Mine has started to rattle so will need to get it sorted before it decides to remove itself from the car !

Zunnsport grills, forgot about those.

@driving_james, sorry no. I have Xenon Litronic headlights, so haven't upgraded. 

Lowered 30mm with H&R springs

Designtek switched exhaust

Pioneer head unit

Red seat belts

Recovered steering wheel

Removed Boxster S and fitted matt black PORSCHE badge

Satin black Cayman side vents

Upgraded to LED all interior lights, side lights and indicators

DRL mod

Upgraded from 18" Cayman to 19" Lobsters

Additional USB charge socket in passenger footwell

Dynamic LED rear lights

Low Temp stat

Dash cam

Reversing camera

Suspension refresh

7mm front and 15mm rear spacers

To do:- spray and fit Cayman rear bumper and spoiler

Wow, that's a longer list than i was expecting. Hope SWMBO doesn't see it 😅

Agree with @zcacogp, did mine earlier this year and has made a huge difference, definitely worth doing. My car had 101K on it at the time.

I took the same approach as @bally4563 and @BBB, collecting parts as the came up on offer (Autodoc, EBay & Spyderperformance).

You wont regret it and its a very satisfying DIY job, if sometimes frustrating!

Making the most of a 3 day holiday in Wales, enjoying the Welsh roads and the chance to take some photos along the way. 

Hope you don't mind me re-using your photos @BBB

Yellow arrow is the valve that you need to tape into. Its just clipped on to the rail, gently pulling it upwards should release it.

Then you can tap into the feed with your supplied 'T' piece and blue pipe as below

This has worked for others but not for me. I have no vacuum there for some reason. May be the pipe coming into the valve is not connected at the other end. I need to investigate but need to get the car back on the road.

Hope that helps

18 minutes ago, BBB said:

I used this guide for most of it. I took some additional pictures of where I took the vacuum feed from and I’ll get them uploaded for you later.

https://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/uploads/2/5/1/0/25107268/987valves.pdf

Used this one too. Thanks to @BBB for sharing when i was doing mine.

Only problem i had was with the vacuum line, mine doesn't seem to have a vacuum at the place you should be able to get one from, so mine are always on the LOUD setting. 

Something i need to get round to fixing but that sound when you give it some revs is amazing!

You wont be disappointed.

As per @red rocket, will almost definitely be cheaper at OPC.

I’ve used mine several times and always cheaper than anywhere else, don’t forget to ask for a discount too.

Small items, my local OPC posted out for free.

Went out for a ‘spirited’ drive to test after putting the gearbox etc back on.

Definetly brought a smile to my face and my 15 year old sons 😊.

These really are great cars !