½cwt

To help them out, jacking point repair sections are available from Porsche (Front at about £55 each, rears about £165 each):

996 501 785 00 front left

996 501 786 00 front right

996 501 481 01 rear left

996 501 482 01 rear right

or given the look of the sills, complete side sections with the front and rear jacking points are about £250 each are:

986 501 957 00 left

986 501 958 01 right

10 hours ago, BoXa Steve said:

Hi Bob.

This happened to my 987.1 3.2 S and the cause was a faulty brake pedal switch which at the time seemed hard to believe as you wouldn't think they are connected !!

They are connects in most electronic throttle cars to prevent the driver from applying power whist also braking.

I agree that looks worse than most and looks as if it might have weakened the structure of the jacking point.  Has the car lived near the coast at some time maybe?

@TROOPER88, you've seen lots, what do you reckon?

If cold the 6 speeds can be baulky, but fine when warmed up. 

1 hour ago, phazed said:

 

 

You can do so much with these cars. They are like a driving Mechano set.

My 5.5 stroked and bored RV8 Chimaera.

I’ll get my coat now. 

That'll be why you are questioning the torque of a 986S....

Try some Polytrol on the vents if you have some for the outside plastics.  Helps restore original plastics colours, lots of people on here have used it for scuttle plastics, mirror triangles, engine intake slats etc on the outside.  Might work well on inside parts too.

19 minutes ago, brillomaster said:

I quite like 'good things come to those who wait' mantra...

I knew I wanted an exhaust for my 987, but didn't want to pay £800 for a decent ish new one...kept scouring FB marketplace and ebay, and eventually a secondhand toyosports came up for £150. Snapped it up, and got it installed, and it's awesome. No drone at low rpm,howls like a banshee under WOT. and, the money saved against new has paid for three trackdays.

Picked up a secondhand set of toyo r888r tyres for £200 (as opposed to the £900 or so for a new set) so we're quids in there too.

Don't buy cheap, buy smart!

Agree, big difference between cheap and cost effective.  A point that seems to escape my employers regularly too.

Remember the sayings - 'Buy cheap, buy twice.'  & 'You get what you pay for.'

1 hour ago, TV8 said:

Found him and plenty of recommendations in this thread. 

 

Yes, Paul knows his Boxsters and regularly help out with question from owners on here and on the FB group.

2 hours ago, ATM said:

I didn't know that thanks. The new pattern still looks asymmetric to me. Where as the rear discs have no asymmetry. 

 

I know the calipers are made by Brembo. Does anyone know who made the OE discs and pads?

They are asymmetric however once on the car it is hard to spot, but as my markings show there are radial patterns in both directions, but that may just be some on with ODC in the hole pattern design department or coincidence of where the internal vanes sit. 

Running two right side discs would mean the left side has the cooling vane turning the wrong way to achieve the turbine effect for optimal airflow for cooling.  Not a problem in day to day road use as noted by @T911UK (there are more efficient but still subtle ways to bump her off, mate!), but on heavy braking road or on track the left front would run hotter and stay hotter for longer.

You can get SHW discs for a 986S:

Brake discs for Porsche 986 S 3.2 252 hp 185 kW 1999 - 2002 M 96.21 ▷ AUTODOC

and there are some interesting design details in some of their discs types but I'm not sure they are in the standard design for Porsche production discs, but if you want it all, go get them but at £222 each for fronts and £165 each for rears at today's prices on Autodoc.  You are looking at £775 for a car set of discs but still a saving on getting them from Porsche directly.....

Our Products | SHW Performance - Official Website

CP4L have had those one handed Brembo discs for a very long time.  Brembo have actually updated their cross drill pattern and no longer offer left and right front for the 986S, see below.  I have this new pattern on mine and though I don't track it I've found no problems and Brembo aren't mugs when it comes to brakes, it also avoids stockists getting into the situation CP4L/ECP are in.

13 hours ago, phazed said:

Exactly. My point being that these engines have little torque at the bottom end and need to be revved.

Are we driving the same cars, a 3.2 Boxster S?  195lbft at 2k rpm torque is quite decent in my book, then I haven't been spoiled by a 'breathed on' V8 in the past, only turbo charged Subarus.  Even when pushing on I rarely take mine over 5.5k (OK maybe 6k a few times) and don't have a problem 'keeping up with traffic' or 'making good progress' and can easily get to licence losing speeds or at least as fast as is sensible on most UK roads.  Not sure you'd be being caught by too much with the handling capabilities too.

45 minutes ago, kdh said:

No comeback apparently, not surprised. Back to the drawing board and looking for a decent used OEM one. They do sound nice with bypass pipes fitted, but for a good sound they need to be stainless and at least 1” in diameter.

The USA seems to be a good source.  They work out at about £500 landed int eh UK and seem to be corrosion free form the two recent stories on here at least.  Or a new Dansk OE equivalent system at around £1k territory, plus fitting...

3 hours ago, Everywhen said:

Then the purchase price needs to be no more than £5k then, the rest will be spent making it drive like it should.😉

You should find the right car, at around £6 to £6.5k that has had some of the big jobs done.  I didn't do my suspension for two years and the brake lines and steering for 4 years so it can be spread out.   £7k Should also get you into a decent 987 but with some of the bigger jobs pending over 2 or 3 years.   Boxster S are all 16 to 25 years old now so all will need some work.

The biggies are parts for a full suspension rebuild even using good after market bits is around £1200 by the time you include shocks and all the arm and top mounts etc.  A clutch and flywheel will be about £800.  If you are a decent DIYer then that's only £2k.  But remember tyres could be old or worn as can brakes hence the buy on condition an maintenance record not just mileage and low number of owners advice.  A wheel refurb is £400 too if required.

18 hours ago, bally4563 said:

One thing I don’t want would be the 12 o’clock marker as that would definitely do my bag in when driving… just saying personal choice

They will do what you want.  The marker is an extra I beleive.

57 minutes ago, Norbert said:

Yes, I also have the impression that the part is interchangeable. But if that's the case why Porsche says it's not? 

Probably because it as not officially been up issued and you can still get both versions I believe.

I thought the units might confuse.  Black line is power against the left axis, grey line is torque against the right axis.  So 2000 rpm is approx. 265Nm or about 195lbft.  It is however power-wise only making about 75PS at 2k rpm.

This is the power/torque curve published by Porsche in the Drivers Manual for the for the original 3.2S, may need a bit of unit translation.:

Entropy obviously.  You are letting them both return to natural lower energy state.

3 hours ago, DVA said:

Thank you, my budget is around the £10k mark including any jobs I may need to do on the car. This one seemed to be at the top of that budget. 

That is a realistic budget and roughly equals the purchase price plus what I've spent on mine over 5 years (most has been DIY so no labour), to include full suspension refurb, aircon condensers, all hard lines and flexi hoses in brake system, steering inner and outer joints, front and rear bumper resprays, all 4 CV boots, replacement vinyl window on hood, AOS (not fitted this yet), to list a few big ones.  In this budget I also added 18" wheels, a new head unit, upgraded the speaker system and retro fitted cruise control.

Luggage compartments should be dry.  Rear can get wet if the header tank fails but then you'd also see low water level and if very low the red light on the temp gauge would be blinking slowly.  The place to check of damp is on the bottom edge of door cards and under the carpet under the passenger seat as the main alarm control electronics are under there and are prone to flooding if water gets in (£600 upwards to fix) due to blocked front of rear drains or failed door inner membranes.

If it knocks and rattles a bit when driving it will be worn/old suspension and the gears can also be balky particularly when cold in the 6 speed 'box.  This is improved by a gearbox oil change, but a 'box refurb if the synchros have been damaged badly is about £2.5k!!! (possibly why the vendor didn't want you to drive it) However a front engine mount with a failing rubber bush can also make the gear change quality poor and this is a cheap fix. 

A puff of oil smoke on start up is common as oil settles in the bores in the horizontal cylinders, but on going or puffs or even clouds when driving is the air oil separator AOS.  As for turning off promptly, these engines can be nosy with cam chains and also lazy tappets when idling.  Bore score mentioned above on the 3.2 is very very rare (More often on the larger capacity 3.4 or 3.6 in the 996/987/997) but is a tick/slap type noise at idle; look up the Wheeler Dealers 997 Carrera episode for the noise.  More common is an oil leak from the bell housing which is often the rear main seal, but can also point to a leak from the IMS bearing, read the topic on the Technical Section for more info on this and which models years have more issues than others.  Other oil seeping can be from the spark plug tubes.

There are lots out there, they will not be perfect even if they are expensive.  Buy on condition and the last 5 years of service history (clutch, flywheel, brakes & suspension are the big ticket items to look for to justify higher pricing) low milage is not a big concern as it can often mean under use or under maintained and not driving these can be as harm full as deterioration of rubbers etc can be worse, but any doubts, walk away.

Keep posting any questions you have, we'll help where we can.

Someone posted on this and included a YT video in the last 2 or 3 months, but I can't find it at the moment. As I recall, the spring inside it is slightly longer and there is a different taper on the plunger too but otherwise the person in the video found them to be interchangeable.

On the right discount day on Autodoc, they are still hard to beat on whatever brands they are offering.  Today for example £440 for Brembo front and rear discs and Textar pads for a Boxster 3.2 S and £330 for same brands for a Boxster 2.7.  

6 hours ago, Jon61 said:

Your equivalent resistances are correct, but your bit in brackets is not right I'm afraid. If the resistances are in parallel, the full supply voltage is applied to both of them, as they are both connected directly to the power supply. It's when they are connected in series, and the supply voltage (= potential difference) has to fall from the full supply voltage down to zero in two stages, that less than the full supply voltage applies across each resistance (in this case, half across each, as the resistances are equal).

Sorry, wrong way round...

Two 4 ohms in series is 8 ohms.  Two 4 ohms in parallel is 2 ohms (but splits as half the applied voltage on each part of the parallel circuit).

45 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

I have the hotdog type, picked up a mint used for £200.  A little droney than standard at certain revs, normally about 60mpg in 5th for me.  Sounds great when you wind it up though!

Wow! That's an economical Boxster!!! 🤣