½cwt

1 hour ago, fizz said:

Just ordered the following part.

Fingers crossed should do the trick. As my window regulator has gone as well I thought I may as well get this done at the same time from the same seller.

Maybe too late but he'll usually merge the postage costs if you haven't already asked.

26 minutes ago, phazed said:

Another question. How can I delete attachments to free up space as I apparently have used up 100% of attachment space. Cheers.

Apparently you can't do that.  Use the Imgur or Flickr hosting services and 'Copy Image Link' into you postings from the images you post on those hosts.

7 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

Put over €100 in the tank. Not sure if I have done that before, or only 1-2x. High fuel price (1.90 marked) and low tank. 

It runs better on petrol you know.

3 hours ago, phazed said:

Sounds like a good idea. I didn’t know anything about that! Point me in the right direction please.

I see you got there unassisted, but for the benefit of others who may wish to do the same, select Store just under the advert banner at the top of the home page.

14 minutes ago, phazed said:

Can someone show me how to delete my previous messages as I cannot use the PM facility until that is done. Thank you.

May be if you think the forum is good value, become a Site Contributor for just for £10 towards running cost of the site, then you get a much bigger mail box and you can edit your posts for longer if required, just a coupe of bonuses.. 😉

9 hours ago, Bike Loon said:

OEM 986 one is £270 from Design 911

https://www.design911shop.com/p/window-lift-cable---regulator-porsche-996---boxster-986--part-no-99654207504---99654207604-_2_2/?source=doofinder

So will be less than that from an OPC.

To chip in on this, you can pick up genuine salvages ones for less than a quarter of this price, which is what I did, then carefully lubricate the wires etc before installation and it is still fine about 4 years later, [edit: actually 5 years next week] leaving £200+ for doing the other side if required or redoing the side that failed and then some.  Yes it is a faff, but a salvage one coming form a 986 will have the stop rivet correctly fitted which is one less job.  Perhaps I just got lucky and as I do most of the work on the car DIY, doing it again in future is part of the hobby of owning a 986.  If you are paying, I'd go with @TROOPER88, do it once, do it right.  Depends on you operating budget and spannering skills/patience. 

10 hours ago, fizz said:

Plan today was to DA polisher the car so went to get it washed and once I'd finished I went to put the windows down and hearda clunk and the passenger side window got stuck. The regulator continued to go down with grinding sound. Not good. 

Managed to force the window up and then pushed up the regulator to hold it in place. It made a grinding sound as it went up so is it the motor or regulator? 

Will need to get that replaced now after I inspect it later. 

Regulator.  Broken wire.  Been there done that. 

Now for the usual debate: salvage, genuine or aftermarket?  You can get 3 or 4 salvage genuine Porsche ones for the price of a new Porsche one.  After market ones are said to give issues by some but others have had no problem.  I chose salvage, carefully lubricated all the wires and running parts before fitting and it is still going strong nearly 4 years later.  Your call...

EDIT : From info in another recent topic, new regulator from OPC is just over £200 with VAT and 10% discount.  Salvage is about £70 incl. VAT plus P&P so nit quite 3 for 1 on current salvage prices.

34 minutes ago, Paul P said:

But they are supposed to be stuck to pads as well as clipped into pistons -  they reduce squeal by aiding pad retraction - rather than but stopping the "vibration" like the anti rattle spring type ones - all for using them again - but you need some decent double sided tape ( @T911UK linked to some once on amazon) to stick them to the pads.....

I guess there must still be enough sticky between the shims and the pads I was refitting.  Reusing is handy if possible as otherwise it is £50 or £60 most of us would rather not spend on the older cars at least.

13 minutes ago, Bike Loon said:

So went and had a look this morning, plenty on the fronts but the rears are low so guess I will be ordering those.

No doubt they still need the stupidly expensive anti squeal bits

My 986 shims (same design) went again with no ill effects to date when I refitted all the old pads and discs after a full caliper overhaul last year.  Rear discs and pads to be changed this summer so I'll see what condition they are in then but the just clip into the pistons.

Usual method is to bleed all the fluid out that you can through the lines furthers from the master cylinder/ABS unit.  You can syphon/syringe some of the old fluid in the  master cylinder reservoir first to save a bit of effort.  Then continue to bleed every nipple (outers first, then inners to also ensure the caliper crossover pipe is flushed) until fresh almost clear fluid rather than the older more straw colours fluid and any bubbles have gone.  Ideally when you've done this once, rebleed each nipple again to be certain no air has now risen to that high point in each caliper.  If you don't let any air into the ABS unit you shouldn't need to cycle it.  Obviously if you are replacing the m/cyl then there will be air throughout the system.

I did a full caliper overhauls and replaced all the brake lines from the ABS pump onwards last summer and had no problems with bleeding.  As I wasn't touching the m/cyl I fully depressed and blocked the brake pedal in place whilst working on the system to avoid the fluid draining completely so avoiding air into the ABS unit.

2 hours ago, Araf said:

And which formula of Textar mix would that be?

The clearly inferior one that they market under their own brand which is less suitable for the Porsche models they say it is compatible with.  Granted Textar is one brand of TDM friction that owns a wide range of friction materials and disc manufacturers.  Textar brand did only used to be supplied directly to OEMs before it fairly recently came to the aftermarket too.  I imagine there might be a slight variation (dare I suggest improvement?) in possibly a newer formula from the as opposed to the OE pads fitted to models 10, 15 or even 25 years ago.

This could get like the tyres argument.

2 hours ago, Jimbop90 said:

One of the pics I took during disassembly last weekend shows me they’re definitely different sizes. I’ve used rubber grease, plus gas and fairy liquid as lubricants so far 🙃

That would imply someone has been in there before you.  It is not unknown for non OE tanks to fail after only a short-ish life.  One of the parts where OE Porsche is strongly recommended.  Like AOS and window regulators too.

Anyway you have a result, have fun draining that tank (through the engine!!).

1 hour ago, Araf said:

I always put genuine pads on mine.  On the last car I only replaced them just before I sold it - after 40k miles so IMHO cheap pads are a false economy.

In my experience, the pads only have to be 2/3rds worn to trigger the sensor.  I'll have to find the pad comparison picture.  It's in my work computer so that won't be until Monday.

Textar are the OE pads.

Very much look to be the same clip in the full parts cat, 999 512 552 01 - Hose Clamp 27 x 12. This type of spring clip can break where the band splits into two which may make one clip seem loser if not actually a different size.  Also if you are not already, a bit of rubber grease or Vaseline inside the hose and inside the clamp may help.

21 minutes ago, scorpio63 said:

Thank you for your reply.

I will attempt to remove the inspection hatch from behind the seats this weekend and hopefully I will see some indication of leaking. This is a learning curve for me...

@scorpio63 It is quite straightforward, slide and tilt both seats forward to create space.  Carpet is held in with a couple of discreet cross head screws on the seat belt cover sections.  Once the vertical carpet section is out there are about 13 10mm hex headed bolts to remove.  A impact driver with a 10mm socket will be you friend, otherwise lots of turning with a spanner or ratchet.

2 hours ago, Patt said:

I am sure it was the same size as a standard 986, just the different joining tube to the plenum.  

Years ago we were going to put the larger TB onto EDC's 550, but he gave up trying to get the right "t-piece"

Checking the parts cat, the TB is the same, but the intake for build code M091 ('50 years Spyder') has a 987 part numbered intake pipe, MAF and air box.

Best of luck.  They might add a bit of time if the drop link/pinch bolts and the damper tubes are corroded into the hub but with the correct gear on hand in a full workshop it should go OK.  @TROOPER88 timings look OK to you?

2 hours ago, Bike Loon said:

switched the PASM on and gave it some beans on the twisties on the way home.... combined with the Yokohama's it really does go round corners soooooooooooooo well!

You're not parting with it anytime soon are you?

3 hours ago, Fat Rat said:

Well, today, top got 2 coats of satin black. Feel like a wheeler dealer. 😬. Getting close. Got this gut feeling it is going to be to loud. 🤪.

 

 

Whit primer did you use on the stainless?

5 hours ago, ½cwt said:

It's on the check list. Caught the little blighters in the act twice in the past.

No uninvited 6 or 8 legged critters found.  No wet carpet either.  No weak cranking when I started it up.  Will investigate batteries more closely at the weekend.  In the meantime I'll see if it goes off again. 🤞

3 hours ago, phazed said:

On a serious note, engines are very robust. Many years ago I borrowed a 4.2 jaguar XJ6 from one of the guys who worked for me. I commented on how smooth and beautifully it drove. He proudly told me that he had it from new and it had never been serviced! it was an eight year old car.

 it was an eight year old car.

Not saying that is the right thing to do but it’s surprising how long an engine will last with minimal care. 

To be geeky for a moment, the majority of failures in mechanical systems occur following maintenance or due to maintenance errors rather than overdue maintenance. Adds credence to the saying, 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it.'

4 hours ago, Patt said:

check for spiders in the cabin

It's on the check list. Caught the little blighters in the act twice in the past.

Switched the alarm off at 01:30 this morning.  Only obvious thing is it has been rain lots.  Battery is about 5 years old but still cranked OK last time it started on Monday.  Hoping I've not got wet electrics but it has survived lots of heavy rain so far this year and drains were clear two weeks ago.....

When the rain stops and things are bit dryer outside I'll take a proper look.

Wrong place. moved to 986 section.

3 hours ago, nelmo said:

Mine rattled for about 3 months and I drove for 500 miles while I tried various ways to try work out what the problem was. When I finally checked the shells, they had wear streaks in them but the crankshaft was untouched. This is why I find it funny when everyone obsesses over which oil to use, changing spark plugs every year etc; car engines are far more rugged and reliable than car dealers would have you believe...a few tiny flakes with no other symptoms means nothing.

Until it does....