½cwt

33 minutes ago, phazed said:

...

I tried Design 911 late yesterday and they didn’t have any stock at all of anything that I wanted. Disappointing.

Not a shock, these are fairly uncommonly used parts so they will buy them in from Porsche once they have demand, 'available' is different from 'in stock'.  Your OPC should also be cheaper than D911 as long as you get or ask for 10% off which most will do and usually works out at about the ex-VAT price from D911.

1 minute ago, phazed said:

That is brilliant information. Thank you so much, as soon as dog walking is complete. I will be on the phone. 👍

As ever ask them to confirm for detail parts like this.  Also if any are up issued to newer numbers can you let me know please so I can add them to my records.

9 hours ago, phazed said:

Any ideas where the best place to obtain the inlet manifold and oil cooler O rings? Also an AOS which I have decided to replace while I am down there.

AOS is best from Porsche.  Aftermarket ones have been found to be variable in life/quality.  Porsche is probably the best bet for the O-rings too if you are getting the AOS at the same time.  By the way the bottom spring clip for the AOS if you get one from Porsche it has a handy plastic catch keeping it open that you just pull out when you've got it to the correct position saves messing with long reach pliers.

From parts cat:

Pre '03 AOS 996 107 023 04

03 - AOS 996 107 026 01

The above both come with the bottom hose and its hose clamp on the AOS

Bottom hose clamp 999 512 630 00

Inlet manifold to cylinder head O-rings 996 110 247 03

There are 3 different O-rings listed for the oil cooler and it totals 10 O-rings int eh listings but I can only see 8 positions, 4 above and 4 below the intermediate plate that sits under the oil cooler:

999 707 409 40 (2 off) 26 x 3mm

999 707 389 40 (4 off) 35 x 4mm

999 707 193 40 (4 off) 28 x 2.5mm

And the IMS work is now being promoted by D911 in their weekly marketing email!

So they sent you 2.7 discs.  Distance Selling Regulations would apply if you'd bought them...  Not good form from a supplier who wants to keep a reputation.

Yes when cold or left for a while any oil on the cylinder walls will have run down and settled at the low point in the cylinders.  In inline and V engines this drains down through the piston rings, in a flat engine it has no where got go, hence a small oil puff on start up.

3 hours ago, Randeep said:

Its cheaper to get a 3.2 from the start but I was already a many £££ into refreshing the 2.7, so carried on spending 🤪 

Good old Man Maths!

17 minutes ago, sa utah said:

Don't forget to get some new bolts to refit your callipers if they are coming off.......

@T911UK usually has these at a good price.

18 minutes ago, Randeep said:

Alright gents, thought I'd let you know my outcomes with a 987 airbox, 987 MAF, 996 TB and 996 plenum. I have a facelift 2.7 which needed a new engine, so the new to me engine went in with the new to me intake upgrades. A few weeks ago I took it to ChipWizards to get it mapped as Wayne really knows his stuff. So the outcome was 235bhp and 203lbft (I think...will check) torque. Wayne said the intake changes make more of a difference on 3.2 engines and those with exhaust upgrades (I have standard manifolds and exhaust). The difference in drivability however is where its most noticeable, pulls harder low down and revs much faster. The 987 airbox also had the helmholtz resonator removed to make it fit so the induction sound is amazing. All in all I would have liked a bit more power (I'll wait for my exhaust to die) but drivability and sound make it worth while. The 987 airbox makes the most difference, MAF, TB and Plenum are nice to haves on a 2.7, might add a couple more ponies for larger engines with the exhaust mods.

10 bhp and 12 lbft gain on standard, but possibly a better shape torque curve.  If the engine is out it is possibly worth the effort, but still a lot of money for the gain.  Getting a 3.2 is probably more cost effective and a lot simpler...

33 minutes ago, 318touring said:

I'll most likely, definitely, outsourcing this to my local garage with detailed instructions.  Fortunately they dropped the subframe last year when replacing the left coffin arm.

I'd like to not spend the 200 quid for those pipes if not needed.

I'll check pricing around since I'm based in New Zealand.  I've found cars245 have consistently provided the best overall price including shipping.

Dropped the sub-frame to do a coffin arm?!?  That is a lot of unnecessary work unless the inboard bolt was corroded in place and they had to get it on the bench, even then normally possible to sort without getting the sub-frame off...

9 hours ago, Pinewood said:

Brand new Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S fitted to the front and a fresh MOT.

advised the rears are low and one has a nail .

 

MPS4S for the rear are £385 per tyre, but to replace the existing MPS2 (N2) is £240 a tyre with discounts .

It's a slight change but still Michelins all round, and after spending  £1k on cross over pipes, I need to save where possible

May be looking at Goodyear next time if pennies are that tight?

11 minutes ago, Norbert said:

I removed the foam and installed a custom sound / heat insulation. 

 

 

What, you stripped the thick rubberised foam backing off the carpets??

1 hour ago, Norbert said:

I am not sure I understand how the cam deviation is connected to the startup rattle?

This was related to another comment made in the topic.  @TROOPER88 was impressed at the figure from a 160k+ mile can and I know @the baron's car is over 210k miles.

So, sorry I was  

7 hours ago, the baron said:

I use Millers 10/50 oil as recommended by Hartech who rebuild these engines, (my 996 had an engine rebuild) my 2.5 Boxster had a rattle at start up, when I switched over oils from Mobile 5/30 to Millers 10/50 the rattle has gone.

Have you even had the cam deviations read on the 986?

1 hour ago, Nobbie said:

The 2.5 5 chain I’ve just scrapped had 165k on it, used 5W 40 Titan Supersyn and never rattled on startup. I did measure the cam deviation which was well within limits at 3 degrees.

The disabling the fuel pump trick sounds like a good cheap solution👍

It would be interesting to know what that data is on @the baron's at over 210kmiles.

I for one wouldn't want to run pads below 3mm.  High chance of friction material starting to delaminate from the backing plate when you get below that thickness.  

1 hour ago, Daboy3000 said:

Would love to get this sorted on my car, it's such a horrible sound.

Part of the 5 chain M96 engine experience?

@TROOPER88 Paul, any thoughts?

33 minutes ago, Jonttt said:

...

The only thing I'm unsure of re its spec as its not included in the desciption nor can I see the sensors on the only rear shot is rear park assist. I have therefore assumed that it does not have it.

...

Take a closer look. I can pick out the sensor just to the side of the number plate, small circular distortion in the reflection and below the rear light, below and right of the small white window frame in the reflection.

To insert a graphic from a browser on a Windows PC, just right click and select Copy Image Link, then paste.

37 minutes ago, Ninesomething said:

I was out for an enthusiastic drive yesterday and I realised that my toyosports has become very musical. It was always OK sounding but it must have finally reached some state where it sounds really really nice. I guess it's been on a couple of thousand miles. Couldn't stop blasting it up the revs. 👹

Remember the exhaust set up on the 987 is very different from the 986 with two separate boxes not the one long box across the back.

2 hours ago, 832ark said:

Yep, I’ll take being an idiot all day long! 🤣

I just didn’t put two and two together. The label flakes behave exactly like the ones I was concerned about. OK, I did find one tiny bit of a different metal in there but that doesn’t really concern me. 

Sometimes being lucky is better than being good.  Hope the test report is clear.

45 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Between paying for a total engine rebuild at half the value of the car, and looking like a muppet to a few guys online, I'd very happily choose to play the music and light the lights.

Hope it works that way for you.

I second that!

At the end of the day they were £30+k sports car when new in their era.  They wear out but still cost £30+k sport car prices to run and fix...  May be cheap to buy but they have a hidden way of emptying your wallet from time to time.

3 hours ago, Geordie40 said:

A little worse, the metal had begun to flake away on the insides 😲

 

Look closer...

7 minutes ago, Nobbie said:

Having just dropped the engine and gearbox and removed the dash, I would say you’d have no problem doing the clutch if you can reinstall that dash. I was relieved it was a one way project for me.

One of those jobs that gravity is only helpful for the removal.  Refitting on the other hand, not so much.

23 minutes ago, Bike Loon said:

How do you know its OEM though? The previous owner might have changed it for a cheap pattern one

Steve Strange (Douglas Valley) is pretty thorough about such things.