Bradders59

Ok thanks. I can try and source the grills. Main thing Im concerned with is that apart from that the bumper will be a straight swap ?

My car is a 2000 model. So the top pic (bumper I bought today) is likely to be post facelift ?

Should still fit ok ? Grills from air intakes are missing, but I have mesh I can use, which will look ok and keep more of the rubbish out than the grills do.

https://postimg.cc/LnwXcwKQ

Bought a nice front bumper from Facebook marketplace this morning. Got home and compared it with my old one and its not quite the same.

Air intakes are different, as is the towing eye cover. Hopefully this doesnt mean it wont fit ?

Will attempt to upload pics.

https://i.postimg.cc/fbVS8jng/IMG-1820.jpg

I advised all of the above, but he wanted to go the jump lead route just to be on the safe side. No skin off my nose, so we did it that way and everything was fine.

The old battery was showing over 13v on my multimeter after it was removed (although the car had just been driven 25 miles), and is still over 13v this morning.

I shall keep measuring voltage regularly to see what happens, but Im starting to have a slight suspicion of battery drain rather than knackered battery.

We shall see.

Removed the front bumper and A/C condensers and confirmed the n/s rad is leaking, so need to get one of those.

I intended to remove the bumper and clean the cr*p out, then fit mesh in the inlets, at the end of this summer but too late.

The rubbish sat in there has eaten the condensers away (now chucked in the bin) and the n/s rad.

Not bothered about the a/c not working, so wont replace condensers, at least for the moment.

My front bumper is really rough, but I think Ive found one locally to replace it, so just need to source or make mesh grills, and get the front end sorted out in one go.

Also just fitted a new battery on brother in laws beautiful 987 (ex Topbox car).

Will try and find time tomorrow to post pics of all the gunge that was in the rad scoops. It was a bit shocking to see.

Brother in law has suggested using jump leads connected from terminals to new battery to ensure no loss of settings etc.

Seems like a feasible suggestion. Any reason not to do this ?

Excellent. Thanks, both of you. 

Brother in law has asked me to fit a new battery to his 987.2 on Monday.

Im happy to help, but I have a vague memory of reading that the car needs to know a new battery has been fitted, otherwise it can cause problems ?

Any info and advice much appreciated, thanks.

Sounds like the best thing is to just replace the sensors then, and hopefully it will solve the issue.

Thanks to both of you for the info. 

Well, I have checked each sensor for continuity and they are all good. Also checked fluid level (although I think that would be a different light ?) and its fine.

Back to the drawing board then. Presumably a break in the loom as none of the sensors are open circuit ?

Excellent thanks. Will blow the cobwebs of my multimeter and check them again.

I should have thought of checking continuity when I had the wheels off, but hey ho. Lesson learned. Ive never claimed to be an expert . Just an enthusiastic amateur. Lol.

Bearing in mind the insulation on each sensor is intact, how to work out which one has triggered the light ?

Difference in resistance maybe ?

By the way, the light came on long before I changed the rear discs / pads, so I havent disturbed the plugs to cause the problem, as far as I know. 

Pretty sure fluid level is ok, but will check.

As above  - this light has appeared on the dash but from what I can tell the pads and sensors are ok.

I fitted new rear discs and pads last week and had a look at the rear sensors while I was in there. There is a red wire which runs around a groove in the sensor, and presumably when the pads wear past a certain point, the insulation gets worn through which causes the light to come on ?

The wire on both rear sensors was intact, so I checked the fronts and they were both intact too.

So, either I have the wrong end of the stick about how the wear sensors work, or there is another fault in play that I dont know about.

Any ideas appreciated, thanks. 

New rear discs and pads. Not a huge amount of work, but enough for me in this heat. 

Was a very good red, and took me down a rabbit hole of other threads - which is nice when Sunday evening TV is atrocious. 😊

What difference does a 996 throttle body make please ? 

XX more ponies hopefully ?

Anyone know the prt number for the correct one please ?

Only experience Ive had of this issue was on a very different type of engine altogether. It was caused by the filter being fitted back to front.

Havent owned my Boxster that long and only changed the oil & filter once, so cant remember if that would be possible on the Boxster engine ?

I stumbled across the emergency release cable on my 2000 2.7 a few days ago. I took the headlights out to restore the lenses and it was hanging down behind the n/s (passenger side) headlight.

It seems they can be almost anywhere around the front of the car. 

Advice ? Dont go. Its full of French people. 😂

I should add, I already have the lense restoration kit. Just need the stuff to protect them after restoration. 

I will be restoring the lenses on my headlamps soon and will then want to put a coating of protectant on to help preserve them.

Seen various products online but having never used any of them would like info from those who have please.

Tia.

Fiitted a replacement driver side window regulator. A bit of a faff on such a cold day, but got there in the end. 

Removing the carpets to fully dry them is the only 100% effective way of doing it in my opinion/ experience.

4 hours ago, BBB said:

Greenflag will cover older cars, you just have to state the age of the cars when you apply. They cover both my 2005 Boxster and our 1989 VW camper van. 

Autoaid now do the same thing. From memory it ups the premium from around£60 to around £75.