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Replacement manifolds


Ad_78

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Hi all.

Has anyone replaced the manifolds on their Boxster? I have some new stainless manifolds (to go with the stainless back box - will do the cats next I expect) and I’m just looking to see how it went. Was it easy enough, did you have any issues with damaged / snapped / rounded bolts etc. or was it a nice easy changeover ? 

Any help appreciated, as when I did the back box I ended up with a Dremel and plenty of grinding discs for 1 hard to reach rounded off b@st@rd of a bolt, just want to know if I need to look out for anything this time round with the manifolds. 

‘I have done a search of the 986 area, but not really found anything on people changing manifolds.

 Thanks 

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Manifolds 10 X worse than a simple back box. Snapped bolts stuck in head so get your drill out and lay on your back or creak your neck for a good couple of hours at least. 

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6 minutes ago, edc said:

Manifolds 10 X worse than a simple back box. Snapped bolts stuck in head so get your drill out and lay on your back or creak your neck for a good couple of hours at least. 

Thanks edc exactly the response I was expecting, but hoping I was wildly wrong!

I think it’s a job for after my holiday next week, can’t see me getting it done Griday night (especially with a few workshop beers on the go!)?

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12 minutes ago, 89rallye said:

just done one side on my 987 due to loose manifold bolts which resulted in a blown gasket 5 studs came out snapped one, 3 bolts on the flange had to be cut off, seen a thread about charging the bolts first

Looks like I may have some shined wall art on the garage wall for a little while? 

These things seem like a good idea at the time! Hopefully I can update this thread next month with the outcome

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Yep I paid £100 for my stainless manifolds and it cost £280 to have them fitted.

If you're manifolds are ok I'd use the money elsewhere,  but they do improve the sound when matched with a bypass mod

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6 hours ago, Southy said:

Yep I paid £100 for my stainless manifolds and it cost £280 to have them fitted.

If you're manifolds are ok I'd use the money elsewhere,  but they do improve the sound when matched with a bypass mod

I already have the manifolds (birthday present from the wife) so I will fit them as I have them, think I will just have to wait till I have an entire weekend free as sounds like I’m going to need it. 

If it improves the sound that’s got to be a bonus?, although I may not be saying that during the install ?

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1 hour ago, Ad_78 said:

I already have the manifolds (birthday present from the wife) so I will fit them as I have them, think I will just have to wait till I have an entire weekend free as sounds like I’m going to need it. 

If it improves the sound that’s got to be a bonus?, although I may not be saying that during the install ?

Good luck,  the mechanic at the porsche indie I go too hates this job.

I'm sure you'll be fine just allow as much time as possible and theydo look shiny 

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Hope you don't mind me making a mention here.

I had an occasion to remove a steel stud fitted to an alloy block on an old car. I was reluctant to use a blow torch.
I managed to get the use of an induction heat tool. Put "induction heat tool" in to YouTube to view.

Using the induction tool the stud glowed red hot but the alloy block was only warm. Different materials act differently to the induction process. Managed to then get the stud out with grips.

They are expensive tools, but some garages are using them.

May not help you with your specific problem, but I thought it may be worth a mention.


All the best.

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Ok, just googled an induction heat tool and I can replace my rear tyres (which do need replacing) for the same cost as one of those tools - ouch?

the stud extractor tool from nightyrains thread looks like a good idea (and cheap?). I think I will look to purchase one of those before I start this job. 

 

Thanks all for your help. 

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Yes, they are expensive. The cheapest one I came across was the Draper 80808. Even then that was circa £600.

Once again on YouTube I spotted a diy construction of one.  Not for most people I think.

Didn't come across any tool hire options.

All the best.

 

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Plynchy had a thread about this as did I, maybe try a search.

As for sounding BETTER, my take was they sound DIFFERENT which is not the same thing at all.

FWIW I didn't break any bolts when doing mine and am not known for being lucky!

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Terrified now due to this thread...

 

might see if I can pull the bolts individually and copper grease them over the next few weeks, maybe swap the bolts for SS also..

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I think I've seen somebody use an old manifold with the branches cut off as a jig for drilling. 

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"Terrified now due to this thread..."

 

Sorry to hear that. Always tend to hear the bad stories more than the good ones. eg ims & rms.

 

As my user name suggests I’m an old timer on cars. Frequently doubted my abilities and scared off doing some jobs. In the end the professionals may end up with the same outcomes.

 

I’d give it a go. If it goes wrong then, so what. You’ll learn from the experience. I certainly have in the past.

In fact I still have my self-doubts and should listen to my own words.

 

All the best.

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I did the manifolds on the old 911 which was air cooled and over 40 YO's

I too had heard the horror stories , and yep the jobs a bugger to do , but not impossible given patience and a good application of Jefferson MAPP gas to the stubborn ones .......

The risk of snapping increases with the state of corrosion , so patience is key and try and do the " good" ones first to get your hand in

Best of Luck !

PS Are the ST/ST headers a larger diameter than stock ?

KT

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1 hour ago, KT986 said:

I did the manifolds on the old 911 which was air cooled and over 40 YO's

I too had heard the horror stories , and yep the jobs a bugger to do , but not impossible given patience and a good application of Jefferson MAPP gas to the stubborn ones .......

The risk of snapping increases with the state of corrosion , so patience is key and try and do the " good" ones first to get your hand in

Best of Luck !

PS Are the ST/ST headers a larger diameter than stock ?

KT

I don't believe they are any larger in diameter, but they are equal length 3 into 1.

 

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18 hours ago, Southy said:

I don't believe they are any larger in diameter, but they are equal length 3 into 1.

 

I was wondering if the diameter increased to provide more airflow ? sure I spotted some on a US forum that increased airflow

Rgds

KT

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You'd have to check but surely there's not much point going bigger if the exhaust port is the restriction or the same size? You have to come side the speed of the air mass moving through and not just the size of the pipe. 

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