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Rear toe arm bolt removal past cat?


Boxsum

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3 hours ago, Boxsum said:

Hi 

how do you remove the rear toe arm bolt out as it hits the cat? Don’t really want to start fiddling with the exhaust if possible 

Thankyou

fLf3NYU.jpg

I remember having this problem. Its hitting the heatshield so you just need to remove that and then you can wriggle the bolt past...theres a screw and retaining clip on the top of the cat if I remember correctly.

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As I had to cut mine I didn't have a problem getting it out but getting back in I did with the toe link disconnected front the hub too so you can use the angle of the slotted hole to line up in the bush a bit before it is fully squared up.  Certainly didn't have to remove a cat although I might have been helped a little by not having heatshields fitted.

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All done Thankyou 

I just had to loosen the 3 bolts where the cat pipes join the manifolds to gain access to remove the bolts.

Think I was extremely lucky as all the bolts undone quite easily and all looked great condition so I could reuse.

Just need to get tracking checked

EB6Fynl.jpg

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, jonogt6 said:

I remember having this problem. Its hitting the heatshield so you just need to remove that and then you can wriggle the bolt past...theres a screw and retaining clip on the top of the cat if I remember correctly.

That is not the correct bolt!

Some Herbert has used a wishbone eccentric bolt which is longer

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16 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

That is not the correct bolt!

Some Herbert has used a wishbone eccentric bolt which is longer

It was definitely the correct bolt on mine. After reinstalling and tightened up there was only about 3mm of protruding  thread.

I do have euro cup headers fitted if that makes a difference to where the cats may sit?

Just back from 4 wheel alignment and drives beautifully. 
Would definitely recommend a front/rear suspension refresh👍

 

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13 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

That is not the correct bolt!

Some Herbert has used a wishbone eccentric bolt which is longer

Well how strange. I had exactly the same problem as Boxsum and my bolt had been in a very very very long time. Probably fitted in 1998 in South West Germany😉

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In that picture, it is most certainly the wrong bolt.

It is hitting the cat and the threads are not even clear of the casting.

I have done so many of these that I have lost count.

You most certainly do not have to remove any exhaust components to remove them.

I have one booked in for Sat, I can picture it.

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6 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

In that picture, it is most certainly the wrong bolt.

It is hitting the cat and the threads are not even clear of the casting.

I have done so many of these that I have lost count.

You most certainly do not have to remove any exhaust components to remove them.

I have one booked in for Sat, I can picture it.

If the bolt was shorter then the nut would have no thread to connect to the other side when inserted ? 
Are you sure changing the headers wouldn’t move the cats slightly forward 

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Just now, Boxsum said:

If the bolt was shorter then the nut would have no thread to connect to the other side when inserted ? 

It is not that short! It will clear the cat though.

The wishbone eccentric bolts are slightly longer.

Tbh, I have seen it a few times :) 

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Just now, TROOPER88 said:

It is not that short! It will clear the cat though.

The wishbone eccentric bolts are slightly longer.

Tbh, I have seen it a few times :) 

Like I say I only have about 3mm of protruding thread after the nut was tightened. 
Anyway all done. 

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3 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

Glad you sorted it.

Very often I have to cut them out, same for the wishbone ones

The wishbone eccentric is approximately 15mm longer. Can't see how anyone could possibly fit one of those to the track arm by mistake. Tbh would the thread even be cut long enough for the bolt to tighten against the upright.

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Toe link bolt is 83mm (and about two turns of thread through on mine), coffin arm bolt 100mm (and about half a turn through on mine).  Headers might explain it.

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1 hour ago, Boxsum said:

After changing the six components this is how far the rear tracking was out. Not sure if it was even worth re-tracking but I don’t really understand the parameters.

KakaAjS.jpg

The back end should feel more stable now with the correct toe settings. Should improve rear tyre wear too.

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2 hours ago, jonogt6 said:

Well how strange. I had exactly the same problem as Boxsum and my bolt had been in a very very very long time. Probably fitted in 1998 in South West Germany😉

Or maybe in Finland if you have one the 90% of Boxsters not built in Stuttgart.  Look for a U (Finland) or S (Stuttgart) as 11th digit of your VIN.

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11 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

My dismantled picture does look like there could be more clearance to the cat.

E4MOuVU.jpg 

and the assembled picture:

EpMQzdc.jpg 

Yeah, you can clearly see that there is room there.

Maybe it is just the pictures but it looks like a lot of old oil on your cam cover. Could be a few things tbh

Have you cleaned it off? If not, G101 with a paint brush and then keep an eye on it but most likely is the plug tubes 👍

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10 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

Yeah, you can clearly see that there is room there.

Maybe it is just the pictures but it looks like a lot of old oil on your cam cover. Could be a few things tbh

Have you cleaned it off? If not, G101 with a paint brush and then keep an eye on it but most likely is the plug tubes 👍

It was leaky plug tube oil seals but these have been sorted.  I'm just lazy I'm afraid!  The suspension was giving more than enough grief  at the time I took these pics to worry too much about cleaning cam covers.  First time round on a Boxster rear suspension rebuild an everything was seized, all 4 eccentric bolts and both drop links, you can even see the induction heater coil and the remains of an eccentric bolt in the first pic... 

May be next time I'm under there, I've got a painting kit for calipers and a brake pipe kit too but the weather will need to warm up first.

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29 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

My dismantled picture does look like there could be more clearance to the cat.

E4MOuVU.jpg 

and the assembled picture:

EpMQzdc.jpg 

Yep zoomed in on your picture the bolt is exactly the same . Must be the headers that move the cats slightly forward.

It did feel a whole lot better done 👍
 

BTW the tuning fork bolt wasn’t that hard to get to either so well worth it , my bushes were quite pliable  but not totally knackered 

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1 minute ago, ½cwt said:

It was leaky plug tube oil seals but these have been sorted.  I'm just lazy I'm afraid!  The suspension was giving more than enough grief (first time round on a Boxster rear suspension rebuild an everything was seized, all 4 eccentric bolts and both drop links) at the time I took these pics to worry too much about cleaning cam covers.  May be next time I'm under there, I've got a painting kit for calipers and a brake pipe kit too but the weather will need to warm up first.

Looks like you did a super job mate, well done.

Can be a pain with seized. 

I am currently working on one and need to split the cats from the manifolds!! 

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Just now, Boxsum said:

Yep zoomed in on your picture the bolt is exactly the same . Must be the headers that move the cats slightly forward.

It did feel a whole lot better done 👍

Welcome to the Boxster suspension rebuilding club!  It really is worth all the grief. Transforms the car.

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