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Boxster 986 Stalling at Idle


lewis2000boxster

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Hello all,

I am at the end of my tether with my car so this is my last resort before taking it into a Porsche garage or driving it off a cliff.

The car: 2000 Boxster 986 manual 2.7 (e-gas version)

So the car starts fine, drives fine, but once its warm will struggle to idle and ultimately stall. There is no loss in power during driving, I drove it for 2 hours on the motorway no problem. But as soon as I stop at some lights (and put my foot on the clutch) it stalls, it will start again but I need to keep my foot on the throttle to keep it from stalling. It does seem to be getting worse as it used to last longer hunting at idle (going down to 200rpm before catching itself) but now stalls after a few seconds.

I have tried: changing coil packs, changing spark plugs, changing MAF sensor, cleaning the throttle body, checking for vacuum leaks (fixed a small one) and re setting the e-gas throttle position.

I then bought a Foxwell NT510 elite diagnostic scanner (£120 eBay) to get some fault codes. Here they are:

P1341 - Inlet camshaft, bank 1

PO112 - intake air temperature sensor

P0103 - hot film MAF sensor

P0197 - oil temperature

The MAF code makes sense as I replaced it recently and tested it by unplugging while running before that.

The oil and air temp sensor readings don't make sense to me. But the most worrying is the camshaft fault, a quick search suggests it could be the variocam solenoid which is not an easy job.

I did clear the codes and run the car, it was running quite rough on idle (but only for 5mins, it didn't get up to temperature which is when it usually stalls), I then checked for codes again and there were non? But I assume that's because I hadn't got the car up to temperature

Any help is much appreciated, I did speak to the local Porsche garage which quoted me £225 per hour to have a look, and a 3 month waiting list.

Thankyou in advance.

Lewis

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1 hour ago, iborguk said:

@lewis2000boxster Welcome and sorry to hear of your issues.

Whereabouts are you based - someone might be able to recommend a good Indy ? 

Hi all thanks for all of the replies!

 

I am based in Wirral in the north west, a good indy recommendation would be great as I haven't found any good ones in this area

1 hour ago, Nobbie said:

I don't think I have one like that as it is the e-gas throttle bottle version. I may take it apart at some point anyway though and see if it is indeed a idle valve issue.

 

As others have mentioned I am beginning to think it's the cam solenoid which unfortunately I don't think I could do myself on my driveway! 

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5 hours ago, lewis2000boxster said:

Hello all,

I am at the end of my tether with my car so this is my last resort before taking it into a Porsche garage or driving it off a cliff.

The car: 2000 Boxster 986 manual 2.7 (e-gas version)

So the car starts fine, drives fine, but once its warm will struggle to idle and ultimately stall. There is no loss in power during driving, I drove it for 2 hours on the motorway no problem. But as soon as I stop at some lights (and put my foot on the clutch) it stalls, it will start again but I need to keep my foot on the throttle to keep it from stalling. It does seem to be getting worse as it used to last longer hunting at idle (going down to 200rpm before catching itself) but now stalls after a few seconds.

I have tried: changing coil packs, changing spark plugs, changing MAF sensor, cleaning the throttle body, checking for vacuum leaks (fixed a small one) and re setting the e-gas throttle position.

I then bought a Foxwell NT510 elite diagnostic scanner (£120 eBay) to get some fault codes. Here they are:

P1341 - Inlet camshaft, bank 1

PO112 - intake air temperature sensor

P0103 - hot film MAF sensor

P0197 - oil temperature

The MAF code makes sense as I replaced it recently and tested it by unplugging while running before that.

The oil and air temp sensor readings don't make sense to me. But the most worrying is the camshaft fault, a quick search suggests it could be the variocam solenoid which is not an easy job.

I did clear the codes and run the car, it was running quite rough on idle (but only for 5mins, it didn't get up to temperature which is when it usually stalls), I then checked for codes again and there were non? But I assume that's because I hadn't got the car up to temperature

Any help is much appreciated, I did speak to the local Porsche garage which quoted me £225 per hour to have a look, and a 3 month waiting list.

Thankyou in advance.

Lewis

Welcome and as per others - sorry to hear of the issues.

Clearing historic codes is a great place to start - you now have a baseline.

You need to "make it happen" again and see what (if any) codes get registered - codes will only register if the car thinks something is wrong - so a sensor giving an odd reading wont trigger a code if the car doesn't see any anomaly ( for example, if a sensor reads a temp and the temp says -5 deg C - then the car will believe it - even if its +20 in reality - the car would only log a code if the sensor wasn't reading anything ....)

Caveat - i am not familiar with the setup on the 986 - but assuming you have a throttle position sensor somewhere ( if its e-gas I assume "fly by wire") 

So - I would suggest - go again, make it happen, check codes, if no codes, have a look at live readings for throttle position sensor ( however that is reported ) if the car is "happy" with your foot on the pedal - then you have to suspect it is not registering correctly - see if that value changes smoothly in relation to actual movement on the pedal. 

After that - guess again - but some live readings might give others some clues

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/28/2023 at 8:02 PM, BBB said:

This video suggests an Italian tune up may help.

 

BBB - you are my hero. 

After watching the video I was pretty pessimistic but though I'd give it a go anyway. I basically drove the car like I'd stole it for a good 20-30 mins. And lo and behold, it wasn't stalling at idle, still a little rough but it was a start. I then took it out again (drove it to an MOT station) again lots of revs, and the idle again improved. 

It passed the emissions test which I am taking as a bill of health.

I am ecstatic this worked, especially after the trouble I have gone through with changing parts, etc. 

I assume what's happened is due to the car being stood for a long time and me not driving it enthusiastically enough when I do drive it. I think the variocam solenoid has stuck in a slightly too aggressive cam position, leading to poor idling/stalling. It just needed a bit of encouragement to get the solenoid moving again, I will keep a close eye on it.

Anyway, thanks again for all of the input, there's a great community on here. 

Thanks,

Lewis 

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