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Battery light weirdness..


BenM

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Afternoon folks,

Battery died a couple of days ago.

Obv the car wouldn't start, but all dash lights were flashing, windows going up and down, alarm sounding, clicking noises etc. Like it was possessed !

Anyway, new battery fitted and car starts fine now, but... the battery dash light remains on constantly, and bizarrely the oil level reading graphics stays on whilst driving.

Any ideas ??

Cheers

Ben 🙂  

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7 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Alternator re battery light ?

Ignition switch good ? 

 

I've read some stuff online about a potential alternator issue.

How do I check ? 

I don't understand electrics at all...

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As above. Who fitted the battery? I’d have expected them to check the alternator before fitting a new one. It’s likely your new battery is gradually discharging, so don’t make any long journeys and try to charge it each day. I had similar on an old fiesta and kept driving until it gave up the ghost on the M25😬

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24 minutes ago, Bike Loon said:

Sounds like alternator needs replacing to me... battery light illuminates to indicate it is not receiving a charge. Quite likely there was nothing wrong with your old battery, it just was not getting a charge

interesting.

It's a 2nd car and lives in the garage plugged into a CTEK trickle charger.

So I was surprised that it died

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7 minutes ago, Nobbie said:

As above. Who fitted the battery? I’d have expected them to check the alternator before fitting a new one. It’s likely your new battery is gradually discharging, so don’t make any long journeys and try to charge it each day. I had similar on an old fiesta and kept driving until it gave up the ghost on the M25😬

Just some local company who fitted while I was away with work. So no idea if they checked the alternator, as i wasn't there

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31 minutes ago, BenM said:

I've read some stuff online about a potential alternator issue.

How do I check ? 

Do you have a multimeter? They're only cheap to buy, if not...

1. Connect the multimeter across the battery terminals

2. With the engine off, you should see around 12.5V on the multimeter - that's the battery voltage (for a good battery).

3. Start the car - with gentle revs (2k will do), you should see around 13.5-14V on the multimeter. If you still see the same 12.5V, the alternator is not charging the battery. It may not be the alternator at fault (may be a wiring issue or bad earth) but at least you have a start.

If you are seeing a charging voltage, then it's probably just an electrical gremlin that a dealer may be able to quickly fix? I've heard that changing a battery on a Porsche sometimes does screwy things like this? 

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4 minutes ago, nelmo said:

Do you have a multimeter? They're only cheap to buy, if not...

1. Connect the multimeter across the battery terminals

2. With the engine off, you should see around 12.5V on the multimeter - that's the battery voltage (for a good battery).

3. Start the car - with gentle revs (2k will do), you should see around 13.5-14V on the multimeter. If you still see the same 12.5V, the alternator is not charging the battery. It may not be the alternator at fault (may be a wiring issue or bad earth) but at least you have a start.

If you are seeing a charging voltage, then it's probably just an electrical gremlin that a dealer may be able to quickly fix? I've heard that changing a battery on a Porsche sometimes does screwy things like this? 

Thanks.

I've ordered the tester that Iborguk suggested above, so will see what that says.

Cost me a fortune recently, the old girl !

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11 minutes ago, BenM said:

interesting.

It's a 2nd car and lives in the garage plugged into a CTEK trickle charger.

So I was surprised that it died

Without receiving a charge from the alternator, on a modern car the battery will go from fully charged to dead within half an hour whilst driving.

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2 minutes ago, Bike Loon said:

Without receiving a charge from the alternator, on a modern car the battery will go from fully charged to dead within half an hour whilst driving.

Makes sense...

I drove to the garage to fill up. Its struggled to start then.

Got home, turned it off, then thought I'd re-start it out of interest. Dead as a dodo. So probably 15mins of driving total killed it.

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1 minute ago, BenM said:

Anyone fitted an new alternator ?

Absolute bastard, or ok to do at home, with mediocre mechanical skills ?

Mid-mounted engine with very limited access? I've no idea but I'm going to go with 'absolute bastard' ...

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9 minutes ago, BenM said:

Anyone fitted an new alternator ?

Absolute bastard, or ok to do at home, with mediocre mechanical skills ?

It looks awkward rather than an absolute bastard due to having to go through the engine panel behind the seats. There’s also a bushing that needs to be knocked out. YouTube has a few videos to give you an idea. Not a job I’d relish.

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So I just got home and went to check on the car.

It's completely dead.

No central locking, windows wouldn't drop to open the door. Zero lights on the dash. Totally goosed.

I've plugged the CTEK in to see if that could help, although not holding out much hope. Must be a real issue if there's no electrics on a 2 day old battery.

Worst thing is the Christmas presents are locked in the front boot and it won't open now... 

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6 minutes ago, BenM said:

So I just got home and went to check on the car.

It's completely dead.

No central locking, windows wouldn't drop to open the door. Zero lights on the dash. Totally goosed.

I've plugged the CTEK in to see if that could help, although not holding out much hope. Must be a real issue if there's no electrics on a 2 day old battery.

Worst thing is the Christmas presents are locked in the front boot and it won't open now... 

Assuming the driver’s door opens, then open frunk this way , if using a booster pack ensure it’s one with a manual override/boost button…

 

Edited by iborguk
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27 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Assuming the driver’s door opens, then open frunk this way , if using a booster pack ensure it’s one with a manual override/boost button…

51977243741_e44893d053_b.jpg

 

Ok cheers, if the CTEK doesn't give the battery any juice I'll give that a try.

Wonder why there's absolutely no power at all...

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Lack of charging and 

10 minutes ago, BenM said:

Ok cheers, if the CTEK doesn't give the battery any juice I'll give that a try.

Wonder why there's absolutely no power at all...

Possibly the lack of charging due to the alternator and a parasitic battery drain. The ctek will take a long time to bring back a flat battery.

 

Edited by iborguk
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1 minute ago, iborguk said:

Lack of charging and 

Possibly the lack of charging due to the alternator and a parasitic battery drain. The ctek will take a long time to bring back a flat battery.

 

20 mins on the CTEK and we have sufficient power to restore lights and open the frunk, thank feck.

There must be some drain going on, of a duff new battery, as I've not driven the car since the new battery was fitted.

Appreciate your responses by the way 👍

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Wow, that's some drain...I'm assuming you've checked courtesy lights? Maybe check the ones in the boots - put a mobile phone with the video recording in the boots and close them. Then check the video to see if the interior lights are going off when the boot closes.

Normal parasitic drain is very small and should take many days to drain a new battery....have you had any changes to the car recently? New stereo, bulbs, dash cam etc?

Left anything plugged in the 12v sockets? They stay live for some time after the key is out and I think they can stay on in some circumstances? 

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