986 buyers guide - is there a good one?

[rayan]

Hi all,

Quick one, I've had a look through a few pages here and the general buyers guides in the sales sections but does anyone have/know of a comprehensive buyers guide for 986's? 

Thanks in advance! 

[iborguk]

Starter for 10

https://www.porscheclubgb.com/regions-registers/registers/modern/boxster/boxster-buyers-guides/986-buyers-guide

[iborguk]

I wrote this as a set of thoughts when buying a 987…most applies to the 986 too…

Some suggestions aside from all the regular 2nd hand car stuff to look for (tyres etc) ...don't let any of it put you off they are all brilliant cars when well sorted , just sharing some tips for what I would look for now I've owned a couple...

Buy on condition not mileage is a forum mantra and is sound advice.

Check the roof operation and that it sits correctly both sides, easy fix re roof elastic normally if it doesn't,.

Check Windows go up/down with roof. Window regulators can get tired at this kind of age. If you hear rattling coming from the doors when driving that could be a few things including worn regulators, window position (which is adjustable for both vertical position and rake).

Check the roof rear drains are clear, which you can see with the roof half-way up. This is normally a clue as to how careful the owner is in looking after the car. Blocked drains can lead to water getting into the car under the seats, causing havoc with the electronics under the passenger seat. Drain check and clear should be a regular maintenance item for any Boxster, especially those living outside most of the time.

Check the areas under the seats are dry (pull up the carpet and check the foam underlay, behind the seats, don't just look at the carpet) and check it shows isn't damp/shows no signs of water ingress (again re drains)

Evidence of coolant pipes including cross-overs having been done (about 1k to do that lot - mine needed them done at 32k miles and when it was 10 years old)

Inside of disk brakes - they like to corrode even though can look fine from the outside (tip always give the car an Italian tune-up after washing the wheels, helps prevent this)

Brake bleed nipples like to corrode on the callipers (you normally only find out at brake fluid change time)

If a Porsche original battery check the negative terminal for week and year stamp - will tell you how old it is. Anything over about 5 years old be prepared to replace it.

Check what suspension parts have been replaced - lower coffin arms are a common requirement (check for rattle, rattle, rattle) when driving

General exhaust condition. The manifold studs to the rear boxes are a weak point, check to see if they have been replaced, originals are made from Camembert, rust to nothing and allow the triangular joint to blow. Easy to fix in the right pair of hands. I had mine done for £220 by someone who knew what they were doing in 2 hours.

Check the aircon/climate control is working. Stone hits to the rads/condensers are not uncommon with the leaks they bring. Assuming UV dye in the system a UV torch (few quid from Amazon) will show any leaks.

If it has heated seats check they are in working order.

The 987.2 interior feels a step forward to a more modern car, as one would expect.

Standard lights are poor, go Bi-Xenon if you can, cars with headlight washers should designate those are on-board.

Check front end paint work for stone chips. Lots of these cars will have front end resprays as they pick up stone chips.

Service History (a guide not a guarantee car will be in great condition). Plugs, Serpentine belt and Brake fluid are all extras in Porsche servicing land - again ensure they have been done as needed.

Coil packs can crack with age and when they get hot in the wet and cause misfires (ask me how I know - had this happen 2 weeks into ownership of a 987.1 !)

I hope some of that helps.

Edited December 21, 2023 by iborguk

[rayan]

4 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Starter for 10

https://www.porscheclubgb.com/regions-registers/registers/modern/boxster/boxster-buyers-guides/986-buyers-guide

 

2 minutes ago, iborguk said:

I wrote this as a set of thoughts when buying a 987…most applies to the 986 too…

Some suggestions aside from all the regular 2nd hand car stuff to look for (tyres etc) ...don't let any of it put you off they are all brilliant cars when well sorted , just sharing some tips for what I would look for now I've owned a couple...

Buy on condition not mileage is a forum mantra and is sound advice.

Check the roof operation and that it sits correctly both sides, easy fix re roof elastic normally if it doesn't,.

Check Windows go up/down with roof. Window regulators can get tired at this kind of age. If you hear rattling coming from the doors when driving that could be a few things including worn regulators, window position (which is adjustable for both vertical position and rake).

Check the roof rear drains are clear, which you can see with the roof half-way up. This is normally a clue as to how careful the owner is in looking after the car. Blocked drains can lead to water getting into the car under the seats, causing havoc with the electronics under the passenger seat. Drain check and clear should be a regular maintenance item for any Boxster, especially those living outside most of the time.

Check the areas under the seats are dry (pull up the carpet and check the foam underlay, behind the seats, don't just look at the carpet) and check it shows isn't damp/shows no signs of water ingress (again re drains)

Evidence of coolant pipes including cross-overs having been done (about 1k to do that lot - mine needed them done at 32k miles and when it was 10 years old)

Inside of disk brakes - they like to corrode even though can look fine from the outside (tip always give the car an Italian tune-up after washing the wheels, helps prevent this)

Brake bleed nipples like to corrode on the callipers (you normally only find out at brake fluid change time)

If a Porsche original battery check the negative terminal for week and year stamp - will tell you how old it is. Anything over about 5 years old be prepared to replace it.

Check what suspension parts have been replaced - lower coffin arms are a common requirement (check for rattle, rattle, rattle) when driving

General exhaust condition. The manifold studs to the rear boxes are a weak point, check to see if they have been replaced, originals are made from Camembert, rust to nothing and allow the triangular joint to blow. Easy to fix in the right pair of hands. I had mine done for £220 by someone who knew what they were doing in 2 hours.

Check the aircon/climate control is working. Stone hits to the rads/condensers are not uncommon with the leaks they bring. Assuming UV dye in the system a UV torch (few quid from Amazon) will show any leaks.

If it has heated seats check they are in working order.

The 987.2 interior feels a step forward to a more modern car, as one would expect.

Standard lights are poor, go Bi-Xenon if you can, cars with headlight washers should designate those are on-board.

Check front end paint work for stone chips. Lots of these cars will have front end resprays as they pick up stone chips.

Service History (a guide not a guarantee car will be in great condition). Plugs, Serpentine belt and Brake fluid are all extras in Porsche servicing land - again ensure they have been done as needed.

Coil packs can crack with age and when they get hot in the wet and cause misfires (ask me how I know - had this happen 2 weeks into ownership of a 987.1 !)

I hope some of that helps.

Thanks, some bedtime reading for tonight!

[Everywhen]

From experience. Look for a car with no rust and a good engine and transmission. Everything else that will need doing is a bolt off/on job, much easier and far less stressful than welding and removing engines.

Is there documentary evidence the suspension (arms and dampers), RMS, brakes, plugs, coil packs, AOS, exhaust bolts, strut top mounts/bearings, ARB bushes and hard brake lines have been done? As you will to have to do them sooner rather than later. There is a reason Boxsters are cheap. 

Once all this is fixed it’s difficult to put into words how good they are, only facial expressions convey the feeling.

[TV8]

If you like a black car, there is a good looking car for sale on Facebook 986 uk group before it gets advertised on chargeable places like autotrader. I don't know the car or the owner but, colour aside, it looks like a car worth investigating. Assuming you are looking for a car, good luck with your search.

[rayan]

2 minutes ago, TV8 said:

If you like a black car, there is a good looking car for sale on Facebook 986 uk group before it gets advertised on chargeable places like autotrader. I don't know the car or the owner but, colour aside, it looks like a car worth investigating. Assuming you are looking for a car, good luck with your search.

Could you share a link if possible? 

[rayan]

22 minutes ago, Everywhen said:

From experience. Look for a car with no rust and a good engine and transmission. Everything else that will need doing is a bolt off/on job, much easier and far less stressful than welding and removing engines.

Is there documentary evidence the suspension (arms and dampers), RMS, brakes, plugs, coil packs, AOS, exhaust bolts, strut top mounts/bearings, ARB bushes and hard brake lines have been done? As you will to have to do them sooner rather than later. There is a reason Boxsters are cheap. 

Once all this is fixed it’s difficult to put into words how good they are, only facial expressions convey the feeling.

Sorry for double post! 

I'm sort of expecting to do a reasonable amount of work to get one perfect and suspension rebuilt seems to be the biggest thing that most of them need. 

In terms of rust, what's something to look out for? I've read they aren't awful in terms of body work (more than likely shoddy repair) but I'd obviously expect a good amount of underside crust.

[½cwt]

1 hour ago, rayan said:

Sorry for double post! 

I'm sort of expecting to do a reasonable amount of work to get one perfect and suspension rebuilt seems to be the biggest thing that most of them need. 

In terms of rust, what's something to look out for? I've read they aren't awful in terms of body work (more than likely shoddy repair) but I'd obviously expect a good amount of underside crust.

Rust, trailing edge of front wheel arches and, under the two side engine vents can develop small bubbles in the paint which is rust coming through.  There is some dampening material behind which traps localised water.

[TV8]

1 hour ago, rayan said:

Could you share a link if possible? 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/986uk/permalink/1789581688219689/

[Menoporsche]

By now, for a 986 the best guide is how much has been replaced and how recently. 

[½cwt]

3 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

By now, for a 986 the best guide is how much has been replaced and how recently. 

And this applies as much to low as to high mileage.  Also don't be put off by up to 6 or 7 owners, just look for quick recent turn over of owners as this might indicate people avoiding the cost of a bigger job or an underlying issue.

[Everywhen]

19 hours ago, rayan said:

Sorry for double post! 

I'm sort of expecting to do a reasonable amount of work to get one perfect and suspension rebuilt seems to be the biggest thing that most of them need. 

In terms of rust, what's something to look out for? I've read they aren't awful in terms of body work (more than likely shoddy repair) but I'd obviously expect a good amount of underside crust.

Yes, most 986 need suspension, even if the dampers are not leaking and pass the MOT they are almost certainly past their best by now. Apart from external corrosion mine were not leaking and had passed a MOT only 4 months earlier, but when I removed them the compression and rebound were different on each one. Koni Special Active are the way to go. It can be an expensive and frustrating job to replace it all but so worth it.

Not a lot of underside rust, except the exhaust, the suspension components are Aluminum and the under trays shield the underneath from a lot. They are also well protected from the factory. The jacking points can show rust where a jack has scraped off the paint but its not serious and a rub down and a spray of Waxoyl will sort it out.