Gramps Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 Hi All. I need to replace my front lower track control (coffin) arms on my 987.2 Boxster S. Any recommendations ( I see Spyder Performance ones come up a lot, are they worth the extra bunce? ) or any in particular I should avoid? Also any tips re the removal and fitting would be welcome. TIA Gramps (AKA Rob) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 Spyder are usually at the lower end of the price range (currently £265 for a pair), Meyle (about £155 each on Autodoc) are another alternative. OE from Porsche you are nearer £350 each. 991 341 053 02 is the part number you are looking to match. (Yes, I know it is a 991 part number but it has been up issued on the 987.2 and 997.2 to this.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted January 27 Author Report Share Posted January 27 8 hours ago, ½cwt said: Spyder are usually at the lower end of the price range (currently £265 for a pair), Meyle (about £155 each on Autodoc) are another alternative. OE from Porsche you are nearer £350 each. 991 341 053 02 is the part number you are looking to match. (Yes, I know it is a 991 part number but it has been up issued on the 987.2 and 997.2 to this.) Thanks for that. Spyder are actually at the higher end of the market where I'm looking 😂, Ebay and the like. They've got a 10% off offer till end of the month so working out at £213 for the pair collected as they are local to me. Any advice on the removal and fitting? Will a wheel alignment check be required? I know the fronts are out slightly but the coolant cross-over pipes also need doing so was going to wait till that was done. Got 2 new fronts to go on once all completed. 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jow Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 22 minutes ago, Gramps said: Thanks for that. Spyder are actually at the higher end of the market where I'm looking 😂, Ebay and the like. They've got a 10% off offer till end of the month so working out at £213 for the pair collected as they are local to me. Any advice on the removal and fitting? Will a wheel alignment check be required? I know the fronts are out slightly but the coolant cross-over pipes also need doing so was going to wait till that was done. Got 2 new fronts to go on once all completed. 🙂 I've just replaced my front control arms, i went with spyder. they are fine to do, the main problem is the bolt that attaches the coffin arm to the sub frame. i had to cut both sides off with a reciprocating saw ( i bought one for this job) i did try and try without but i couldn't see any other way. the rest of it is fine. so you will need replacement bolts for the ones you cut. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted January 27 Author Report Share Posted January 27 11 minutes ago, Jow said: I've just replaced my front control arms, i went with spyder. they are fine to do, the main problem is the bolt that attaches the coffin arm to the sub frame. i had to cut both sides off with a reciprocating saw ( i bought one for this job) i did try and try without but i couldn't see any other way. the rest of it is fine. so you will need replacement bolts for the ones you cut. 👍It's surprising how often "reciprocating saw" rears it's ugly head when working on Porsche suspension 😂. Thanks for the heads up. I'm sure I've one stashed somewhere which I've used for branch cutting, might just have to source the appropiate blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jow Posted January 28 Report Share Posted January 28 23 hours ago, Gramps said: 👍It's surprising how often "reciprocating saw" rears it's ugly head when working on Porsche suspension 😂. Thanks for the heads up. I'm sure I've one stashed somewhere which I've used for branch cutting, might just have to source the appropiate blade. yep! I was going to be fine with a grinder but it wasn't to be. one thing to watch when using the recip is thet the plastic cross over coolant pipe is just behind the bolt you are cutting. I just put a piece of metal there to stop me from puncturing it as i've not long changed them 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted January 28 Author Report Share Posted January 28 8 minutes ago, Jow said: yep! I was going to be fine with a grinder but it wasn't to be. one thing to watch when using the recip is thet the plastic cross over coolant pipe is just behind the bolt you are cutting. I just put a piece of metal there to stop me from puncturing it as i've not long changed them That's another job on my list, one of my x-overs is starting to leak 🙄. Tried looking for my reciprocating saw last night in readiness and do you think I could find it? 🙄 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted January 28 Report Share Posted January 28 (edited) 26 minutes ago, Gramps said: That's another job on my list, one of my x-overs is starting to leak 🙄. Tried looking for my reciprocating saw last night in readiness and do you think I could find it? 🙄 Get a good blade for it, the Porsche bolts are hard. I used a Bosch Sabre blade on mine, went through in 30 to 40 seconds where a standard metal blade had hardly touched in over a minute and it the blade was blunt by then. The Sabre did 4 bolts and still has life in it. Edited January 28 by ½cwt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted January 28 Author Report Share Posted January 28 2 minutes ago, ½cwt said: Get a good blade for it, the Porsche bolts are hard. I used a Bosch Sabre blade on mine, went through in 30 to 40 seconds where a standard metal blade had hardly touched in over a minute and it the blade was blunt by then. The Sabre did 4 bolts and still has life in it. perfect timing. Just had another rummage and found said saw. will google the Bosch blade 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted January 28 Report Share Posted January 28 Just now, Gramps said: perfect timing. Just had another rummage and found said saw. will google the Bosch blade 👍 Screwfix... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted January 28 Author Report Share Posted January 28 4 minutes ago, ½cwt said: Screwfix... Just looking at Toolstation. They do 2, one 225mm in length and the other 150mm. Which would you recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted January 28 Author Report Share Posted January 28 3 minutes ago, Gramps said: Just looking at Toolstation. They do 2, one 225mm in length and the other 150mm. Which would you recommend? On 1/27/2024 at 9:54 PM, Jow said: I've just replaced my front control arms, i went with spyder. they are fine to do, the main problem is the bolt that attaches the coffin arm to the sub frame. i had to cut both sides off with a reciprocating saw ( i bought one for this job) i did try and try without but i couldn't see any other way. the rest of it is fine. so you will need replacement bolts for the ones you cut. Where did you get your replacement bolts please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted January 28 Author Report Share Posted January 28 37 minutes ago, ½cwt said: Screwfix... The more you look the more options there are. Would you recommend the 225mm or 150mm blade and fine tooth or not fine tooth (EF or BF). If I remember right you're qualified to answer that 😉. Certainly more qualified than me 😌 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted January 29 Report Share Posted January 29 8 hours ago, Gramps said: Where did you get your replacement bolts please? Shorter blade, fine tooth. From taking a quick look at the Screwfix pages, S922EF was what I got I believe. Bolts from Porsche is most cost effective if you are local to a Porsche Centre. Don't necessarily assume you are going to need one. My front coffin arm bolts came out fine even at 20 years old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted January 29 Author Report Share Posted January 29 10 hours ago, ½cwt said: Shorter blade, fine tooth. From taking a quick look at the Screwfix pages, S922EF was what I got I believe. Bolts from Porsche is most cost effective if you are local to a Porsche Centre. Don't necessarily assume you are going to need one. My front coffin arm bolts came out fine even at 20 years old. Thanks for that. I had a quick poke around under there today, gave a few bits a squirt of WD40 in readiness. Seems almost impossible to get good access for a socket and wrench. Sockets go on the arm to crossmember bolt ok but the diameter of the wrench then makes it impossible to get the socket cleanly on once on the wrench. But got some spanners in there and just made sure I could turn them and they weren't seized. So hopefully it shouldn't be too bad. 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted January 29 Report Share Posted January 29 8 minutes ago, Gramps said: Thanks for that. I had a quick poke around under there today, gave a few bits a squirt of WD40 in readiness. Seems almost impossible to get good access for a socket and wrench. Sockets go on the arm to crossmember bolt ok but the diameter of the wrench then makes it impossible to get the socket cleanly on once on the wrench. But got some spanners in there and just made sure I could turn them and they weren't seized. So hopefully it shouldn't be too bad. 🙂 If the bolt turns you're OK. You can usually get the nut off anyway but if it the bolt is seized it is due to corrosion inside the alloy bush. Does take a bit of fiddling with spanners only to get at some bits. Use ring spanners if you can, reduces risk of burring off the hex head if an open ended slips (and protects your knuckles from this scenario too). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jow Posted January 29 Report Share Posted January 29 ye i was able to undo the bolts, but it was the corrosion inside the bush bit that stopped me for getting the bolt out, its tight in there! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted January 29 Author Report Share Posted January 29 3 hours ago, ½cwt said: If the bolt turns you're OK. You can usually get the nut off anyway but if it the bolt is seized it is due to corrosion inside the alloy bush. Does take a bit of fiddling with spanners only to get at some bits. Use ring spanners if you can, reduces risk of burring off the hex head if an open ended slips (and protects your knuckles from this scenario too). Think I might need a decent set of "straight" ring spanners, mine are all angled which makes access a little more dificult at times, and I do like to add to my tool collection. 😁 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted January 29 Author Report Share Posted January 29 58 minutes ago, Jow said: ye i was able to undo the bolts, but it was the corrosion inside the bush bit that stopped me for getting the bolt out, its tight in there! Know what you mean. Due to the lack of access to a couple of the nuts I went "in" from the bolt end and they turned ok, only minimal as I just wanted to make sure they turned, so hopefully they should come out ok. 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted January 30 Author Report Share Posted January 30 On 1/29/2024 at 7:38 PM, Jow said: ye i was able to undo the bolts, but it was the corrosion inside the bush bit that stopped me for getting the bolt out, its tight in there! Sorry, I might've misunderstood. Was you able to undo the nut but not get the bolt out as it was seized within the bush? If seized within the bush were you still able to turn the bolt (and the bush , or it's inner sleeve turned with it) or did the bolt not turn at all? Just trying to prepare myself. I had a quick look at the other side today and it was a darn sight stiffer than the 1st, needed a hefty handle over the wrench for more leverage but did start to turn the bolt, hope nothing snaps. As it turns out it had it's MoT today and despite the advisory last year there was no mention of any play in the balljoint this year, but I've ordered the coffin arms in readiness. It did fail on a bulge in one of the front tyres that I wasn't aware of and the guy done well to spot it, I had 2 new tyres waiting to go on anyway once I'd done the cross-over pipes and got the geo reset but they can go on now, and it also failed on emissions for which I'm waiting on a couple of new lambda sensors. The car has never had so much attention 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted January 31 Report Share Posted January 31 12 hours ago, Gramps said: Sorry, I might've misunderstood. Was you able to undo the nut but not get the bolt out as it was seized within the bush? If seized within the bush were you still able to turn the bolt (and the bush , or it's inner sleeve turned with it) or did the bolt not turn at all? Just trying to prepare myself. I had a quick look at the other side today and it was a darn sight stiffer than the 1st, needed a hefty handle over the wrench for more leverage but did start to turn the bolt, hope nothing snaps. As it turns out it had it's MoT today and despite the advisory last year there was no mention of any play in the balljoint this year, but I've ordered the coffin arms in readiness. It did fail on a bulge in one of the front tyres that I wasn't aware of and the guy done well to spot it, I had 2 new tyres waiting to go on anyway once I'd done the cross-over pipes and got the geo reset but they can go on now, and it also failed on emissions for which I'm waiting on a couple of new lambda sensors. The car has never had so much attention 😂 If the bolt is seized it will not turn more than a small amount. The alloy part of the bush, which is fixed in place by the rubber bush, is what is seizes in so the rubber can give a bit. A quarter turn or more, or if it doesn't turn back when you take the pressure off the wrench and you'll be OK. Highly unlikely you'd snap the bolts with hand tools (you will burr the hex heads off before the bolt shank yields), but if you did it could make getting it out easier. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted January 31 Author Report Share Posted January 31 9 hours ago, ½cwt said: If the bolt is seized it will not turn more than a small amount. The alloy part of the bush, which is fixed in place by the rubber bush, is what is seizes in so the rubber can give a bit. A quarter turn or more, or if it doesn't turn back when you take the pressure off the wrench and you'll be OK. Highly unlikely you'd snap the bolts with hand tools (you will burr the hex heads off before the bolt shank yields), but if you did it could make getting it out easier. Must admit I didn't turn it much, just wanted to make sure it moved, didn't note if the bolt returned, don't think it did so fingers crossed. Going into Porsche Tonbridge tomorrow to have the HPFP changed FOC, and for them to price me up on the cross over pipes. Be glad to get the HPFP sorted after all this time. 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul P Posted January 31 Report Share Posted January 31 17 minutes ago, Gramps said: Must admit I didn't turn it much, just wanted to make sure it moved, didn't note if the bolt returned, don't think it did so fingers crossed. Going into Porsche Tonbridge tomorrow to have the HPFP changed FOC, and for them to price me up on the cross over pipes. Be glad to get the HPFP sorted after all this time. 🙂 Recent experience with OPC and cross over pipes is it’s 2k ish Mine were done under warranty I picked up the parts costs for bits that weren’t (or couldn’t be made to ) leak. Cost me about £300. if I was paying for the whole deal it would be going to Steve @ goshallwerks in sandwich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps Posted January 31 Author Report Share Posted January 31 49 minutes ago, Paul P said: Recent experience with OPC and cross over pipes is it’s 2k ish Mine were done under warranty I picked up the parts costs for bits that weren’t (or couldn’t be made to ) leak. Cost me about £300. if I was paying for the whole deal it would be going to Steve @ goshallwerks in sandwich I'm not holding out much hope, but thought I'd ask as it was in there anyway. Probably do it my self when the weather improves but might give Steve a call. He was quite reasonable for the pump, if I was going to go down that road. 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdh2903 Posted February 1 Report Share Posted February 1 Just done these on my 987.2, went for the spyder arms, seem decent quality. Definitely order the bolt kit too. I got the 1st one out no bother and wondered what all the fuss was about, then the remaining 3 were seized solid. Whoever thought steel bolts into alloy bushes was a good idea needs a bloody good shake. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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