phazed Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 28 minutes ago, Bike Loon said: If it was my car I would be p*ssed if a garage took it for a "test drive" when it was only in for an MOT. Lets hope it was with the owners consent and if not lets hope he does not have dash cam. My friend caught a main dealer out when he took his Yaris GR in when the tech obviously forgot it has dash cam 😬 Calm down guys. I suppose I was leaving myself open to these replies! It was with the owners consent who my son knows. MOT’s aren’t actually carried out at his garage, (although we are looking into installing an MOT test station on his premises) but trade at an MOT centre nearby. Guy brings all his cars in to my son for regular checks. I believe he has five Porsche’s. They hardly do any miles and need annual check overs and MOT where applicable. I met his wife at the end of last week and of course we chatted about her husband’s cars. She said that she will be bringing in another one in the next couple of weeks and will let me know so I can take it for a spin, apparently it is some rare left-hand drive RS of some description. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phazed Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 Back on the subject. Checked over the car this morning before starting. Found one of the large Jubilee clips that clamp, the large die hose onto the MAF was actually broken. Fitted a new one but didn’t really have much hope as the pipes are a tight fit on the MAF junction. Engine started easily and seemed to run well. Ran well for a couple of minutes then started running really rough with popping back through the manifolds. Disconnected the connector to the MAF as suggested by Paul. Started car and if anything it ran better. Kept the revs inbetween idle and 2000 rpm to gently warm the engine and all seemed better than before, very smooth, very quiet engine so seemed I was heading in the right direction. Sadly, while the car was at about 1/4 warm on the gauge after a few minutes of running the engine reverted back to its popping back through the manifold, and generally rough running! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 It could of course be a crack or split somewhere in the induction system. Is the MAF seated properly and its o-rings not damaged allowing air to leak in? As a precaution, get a second-hand MAF from somewhere like Douglas Valley, only about £30-35 IIRC. Part number 986 606 125 02 is the up issue, but 01 is OK, or Bosch (who supply them to Porsche) 0 280 218 386 if you want to buy new at about £125-£130 rather than north of £500 from Porsche. (For the real geeks the Bosch part also references to Ferrari/Maserati, Opel and Scania!) I don't believe a Variocam solenoid would cause popping back into the intake (or do you mean into the exhaust side of the system?), it would more likely cause a drivability issue or flat spot usually lower in the rev range from the accounts I've read where it is the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 13 hours ago, phazed said: Came with 3/4 full tank! 3 hours ago, ½cwt said: Stale fuel won't help. If none of the other things mentioned above, do you know how long it stood? Could be clogged or sticky injectors if the fuel has gummed up in them. A good drench in carb cleaner/brake cleaner with them on the bench could help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phazed Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 MAF seated properly and O-ring intact. MAF seated properly and O-ring intact. Just been speaking to a Mechanic friend of mine who suggested that if the fuel filter is original, which I believe it is as I have completely forgotten about it, renew that because that can cause various upsets in the system when it is showing low, fuel, pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 It is a fit for life type in the tank with the fuel pump assembly (996 620 132 00) in later 986s. The inline filter under the car (996 110 253 01) was dropped for 2002 models onwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phazed Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 50 minutes ago, ½cwt said: It is a fit for life type in the tank with the fuel pump assembly (996 620 132 00) in later 986s. The inline filter under the car (996 110 253 01) was dropped for 2002 models onwards. Ah. Will have a look later this afternoon! I have seen the location so will know shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iborguk Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 1 hour ago, phazed said: MAF seated properly and O-ring intact. MAF seated properly and O-ring intact. Just been speaking to a Mechanic friend of mine who suggested that if the fuel filter is original, which I believe it is as I have completely forgotten about it, renew that because that can cause various upsets in the system when it is showing low, fuel, pressure. Bought that diag kit yet ? Not only will it give you codes but also access to the live data from the car. That also helps zero in on issues and can help contain the parts canon from misfiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phazed Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 Not yet. Hoping to have my sons one put on first. Spent enough on this car as it is! Just to confirm, as it is an O2 model, I have not got the canister filter under the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 1 hour ago, iborguk said: Bought that diag kit yet ? Not only will it give you codes but also access to the live data from the car. That also helps zero in on issues and can help contain the parts canon from misfiring. One of these could save hundreds if not thousands even just a V1.0 POR version. But it is fun for us doing internet diagnosis and spending another person's money 🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phazed Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 Ha ha. if I can borrow a code reader, (hopefully tomorrow, or I may trailer the car to my sons workshop), what should I be looking for? I am assuming readings from the MAF and O2 sensors. If so, what should these actually be approximately? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phazed Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 21 hours ago, edc said: Have you cleaned up the throttle body and intake? I'd also check for any air leaks around the throttle body and plenum. They won't show any CEL or code as post MAF. Just reacquainting myself with this post. Is it worth taking the throttle body out, looking, cleaning and replacing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 Just now, phazed said: Just reacquainting myself with this post. Is it worth taking the throttle body out, looking, cleaning and replacing? Bear in mind the AOS contaminated air goes back into the intake, so a good clean up inside the intake is worth while from time to time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattman42 Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 Any sign of other air leaks, cracked hoses etc? I appreciate its a PITA to trace them all through. I had a spilt hose on the Z4 which led to fluctuating idling and was a simple replacement to cure. Good luck - sounds like you've tried the obvious stuff, hopefully the code reader will provide some answers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phazed Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 A mechanic friend of mine, just suggested I check inside the fuel tank, just in case the gauge, which is reading nearly full, is totally inaccurate! I believe access to the tank, pump and filter in the tank is under the battery. I also believe that filter should be changed as about 100 K miles, is that correct or is it there for life? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phazed Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 1 minute ago, Mattman42 said: Any sign of other air leaks, cracked hoses etc? I appreciate its a PITA to trace them all through. I had a spilt hose on the Z4 which led to fluctuating idling and was a simple replacement to cure. Good luck - sounds like you've tried the obvious stuff, hopefully the code reader will provide some answers! Had a look as far as I could see from above and below. All looks sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 40 minutes ago, phazed said: A mechanic friend of mine, just suggested I check inside the fuel tank, just in case the gauge, which is reading nearly full, is totally inaccurate! I believe access to the tank, pump and filter in the tank is under the battery. I also believe that filter should be changed as about 100 K miles, is that correct or is it there for life? There is no filter part number for 2002 onwards cars. Earlier cars would have a filter change somewhere in the service schedule but I don't know at what time/mileage. Sender's usually show one extreme or the other off duff, it the floats can stick to give a false reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phazed Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 6 hours ago, Sanky said: If it was working fine before you changed the plugs and epoxied the coil packs, I would start from there and make that electrical connector is plugged in correctly. But if the coil packs are cracked, would just replace them as a maintenance item. The trouble is that when I bought the car which i trailered home, I only ran the car for a couple of minutes and therefore it may have been running well as it does now in an early few minute window before it starts messing around. If I was to start it up now cold it would run fine and then as it starts warming after a couple of minutes, it goes into this strange pop back and not want to rev mode. Hopefully coil packs will be delivered in the next day or two and they will go straight on but in my mind that is more of a precaution for the future than a cure but you never know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phazed Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 26 minutes ago, ½cwt said: There is no filter part number for 2002 onwards cars. Earlier cars would have a filter change somewhere in the service schedule but I don't know at what time/mileage. Sender's usually show one extreme or the other off duff, it the floats can stick to give a false reading. Was just reading up about these filters, they are supposed to be there for life. What is life? Surely they must start to block up at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 9 minutes ago, phazed said: Was just reading up about these filters, they are supposed to be there for life. What is life? Surely they must start to block up at some point. When the fuel pump fails.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phazed Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 I think I will still open up the tank and just check that there is actually fuel in there. Not sure if I will be able to see anything else. A filter is a filter. Of course, another reason could be a failing pump and pressure might be low. This I suppose could be tested if you knew what you were doing. 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon61 Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 44 minutes ago, ½cwt said: There is no filter part number for 2002 onwards cars. Earlier cars would have a filter change somewhere in the service schedule but I don't know at what time/mileage. MY2001 Replace fuel filer: Every 48k miles 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROOPER88 Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 1 hour ago, phazed said: I think I will still open up the tank and just check that there is actually fuel in there. Not sure if I will be able to see anything else. A filter is a filter. Of course, another reason could be a failing pump and pressure might be low. This I suppose could be tested if you knew what you were doing. 😂 This should not turn in to car parts lottery game which is the route you are going down. You mention that it could be the MAF, an air leak, the fuel filter etc. Yes, 'it could be' a couple of these things but you seem reluctant too diagnose the issue properly even though a few members have suggested you plug it into a diagnostics reader. If you Son is a mechanic, he should have a scanner than will read it no problem. Ask him if you can borrow it for 30 minutes - job done. If you believe you have an air leak, ask your Son to borrow his smoke machine at the same time. I would advise against you opening up the fuel tank. The filter is a lifetime fit and 1) you may struggle to seal the tank correctly once you have opened it, 2) you will need to syphon out the petrol that is in there, 3) you will need to remove the sender unit as well as the pump and it is quite easy to not put things back correctly. Scan the car the car correctly and go from there would be my advice. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phazed Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 Thanks for the info. I will be going down the scan route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 20 Report Share Posted February 20 10 hours ago, phazed said: Thanks for the info. I will be going down the scan route Good Call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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