Andy Mac

Superb job @300SL-24 great to hear - DIY fixes are so satisfying. 

On 8/25/2022 at 6:19 PM, ATM said:

Fantastic work / choice - looks great from that snippet 👏 

@300SL-24 just for ref my new pump from OPC with discount was about £280. 

2 hours ago, 300SL-24 said:

Update:

I had time to look at this today. Made a jumper lead for the fuel pump relay and had a read up in the net. The car has not been started since Thursday but has been on a Ctek to ensure the battery is at full power.

I turned the key and could hear the fuel pump prime, and it started straight away. I left it running for about 10 minutes and it ran fine, so I switched it off. My thoughts were fuel pump relay intermittent possibly. I did a few little jobs, cleared the rear drains etc.

About an hour later no start!

So I removed the fuel pump relay and used the small jumper lead I made, quietly confident this would cause the pump to run. Not the case, even with the jump lead connected the fuel pump would not run. I pulled the fuse and it was fine, so that is where I am at.

I have taken on board the comments regarding the MAF, however with no fuel pump priming I would think the issue must be related to this rather than the MAF. 

So now where do I go, I would assume that somehow I need to check power at the pump as in the link kindly put up by @Andy Mac but suspect that there will be no power there. Should I connect a 12v supply to the pump directly and see if it runs, if so I need to look at something in the line before the pump. Maybe it is an earthing issue?

Thanks for any forthcoming help and advice

Regards

Ray

If you are confident in the relay bypass it certainly sounds like the pump is stuffed / intermittent (mine was). Mine wouldn’t run / would run occasionally - even ran OUT of the tank - but not when refitted (cured by new pump) it was like it was too weak to do proper work….

** I’d suggest putting power direct to the pump. See if you can hear it whirring. (Where to connect shown in my earlier post) **

So point 1 on ignition / remove battery / remove battery tray / remove harness to sender top / use battery to power the terminals (outer two i think - but correctly labelled pos / neg in my earlier post).

Beauty of that is no faffing around with meters / measuring harnesses etc - because if it doesn’t run with direct power you’ve got your issue.

ie it’s either the pump (highly likely) or a poor connection - from sender to pump - but to be fair the wiring from sender top terminals is usually robust and decent spade connectors to the actual pump terminals - ie they are connected or not.

Good luck 

Hi @spook Spyder arms are reasonable prices - but check / inspect them first - or ask whoever is fitting them too.

I’ve ordered all the arms for mine (leggy 996) over the last few months - to fit next week - two looked a bit iffy / re manufacture - both where the metal hadn’t been pressed in uniformly. This rear tie rod is one - gap between arm and metal:

To be fair to Spyder both times they sent out replacements the following day no quibble and they give a two year guarantee.

@300SL-24 might be of use - couple of diy diagnostics when my pump gave up the ghost… 

Usually cop an admin fee for plate (or any..) change so that’s good.

200 notes does sound cheeky on the face of it… doesn’t it - that’s about the same as my yearly premium… 

Wonder if they factor in the aggro of a non standard paint (in their view) when repairing? 

Did you incur any cost with DVLA to change colour / or is that just free admin?

Hi @Rob13 - I had similar on my 996 (zillion miles on it turned out to be dead fuel pump) - cranked but didn’t fire.

Common causes of crank but no fire seem to be throttle position sensor (sometimes indicated by the Rev counter needle bouncing as you try and crank) or fuel pump / pump relay.

Mine turned out to be a dead fuel pump.

You should be able to hear the pump prime when you first turn the car on. I couldn’t so followed the below steps as such.

You can make a jumper wire up (plenty of tech articles on web have the details) to bypass the the fuel pump relay. 

With the relay bypassed the pump should just run with ignition on. If it does - happy days - it’s your pump relay.

Mine didn't - so as a sanity check I applied power direct to the pump (battery - put the car on ignition point 1 before removal as not to stuff the alarm up - and battery tray removed and then power to the pump via the connectors using the car battery - my pump still wouldn’t run) - ie a good way to establish pump or relay before dismantling things.

Top of fuel sender and pump connectors below battery tray:

With connector removed:

Pump out and tested:

And after a clean up once I popped the new pump in:

Excuse fast typed ramblings - May give you an initial steer / or at least rule the pump / in / out….. 
 

Plenty of 986 / 996 crank but no start threads out there to give you a flavour - good luck.

Hi @Carole have you seen this one from Pelican? 

Easy guide with pictures.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/01-BASICS-Jacking_Up/01-BASICS-Jacking_Up.htm
 

@ATM I used “pro plates” https://proplates.co.uk/

Small Stick On Number Plates (330mm x 111mm) - £14.50 delivered (no V5 faff and has the BS / maker details on etc).

Mine came out well: 

10 hours ago, bally4563 said:

Yes I will rent it out, look up Stromski manifold jig., but essentially a thick plate that accepts different size drill pilot bush,s  comes complete with drills tap and user ins instructions . £100 includes delivery for the hire with return address details . Any damages such as broken drills/ tap must be replaced before return. Saying that if used correctly I would not except any!! I have used it for eight studs, and found that when you come to run the tap through you are just cleaning the threads. PM if you want to take up this offer.

Will keep this in mind @bally4563 - autumn / winter job on the 996 as my manifold fixings literally look like they’ve been on the titanic (but fitting with 173,000 miles now 😂).

9 hours ago, ATM said:

So I was beginning to think Olive Green when I saw the first pic below but now I've seen the second pic I'm not so sure

 

Liking that - be great to see it all done 

5 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

NVH?

Noise vibration harshness - stiffer - bit more shakey shakey - simultaneous reply @gillbe

I got the OE porsche ones from heritage parts on offer. Very pleased. 

@½cwt @rowbos nice one gents! Way off topic but worthwhile 

iOS here 😂

Thank you (no idea how to get the 1/2 symbol to @1/2cwt) . I had it tidied up over winter - rust removal and treatment - welding at end of outer sills (trapped gunge behind aero kit) and jack point replaced - and re underseal in the grey. Local (Cambridgeshire) fabrication place did it.

Holding up well so far…better than the top side 😂. Must get round to doing a running report as I’ve done lots of tinkering. 
 

12 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Got a few bit from my local OPC during the week (£220) and fitted these today. Front diagonal braces.  These were very corroded when I got the car and after lots of work with a wire brush on a drill I painted them with black Hammerite but they started corroding again.  Only £27 each so not too bad.

 

 

Handy to know they are reasonable money I’ll grab a couple as they’ve been off recently (I’d done the same as you - putting off the inevitable re rot 😂). Offended me seeing them a bit rotten when doing the undertrays / rectangle clips etc (996).

Ta - thanks for speedy reply. 

That’s a great price @T911UK any H&R offerings for a 2003 996 C2 manual at all…? 

@alank in my youth I worked a summer season in Faliraki (George’s bar) - I imagine our experiences were quite different 😂 

Some beautiful areas to visit away from the then Faliraki carnage.

Thanks for posting @David__H interesting read, be good to hear what the Geko coil-overs are like longer term / if they turn out to be the source of the knock etc. 

@Dosthilldave I’d guess it’s this / these AC pipes… #6 & or #10 in the diagram.

#6 shown below:

Hi @Dosthilldave that sounds like the two air con pipes that run down there.

So replacement of the pipe(s) and a regas - unless it’s crushed and the AC is still working / ie can live with it for now.

Good news the brake lines look well.

1 hour ago, Stuart21UK said:

I had condensation once, bought a 1kg 'suck up moisture' bag thing and it was fine afterwards, not actually got it in the car at all at present and it's still fine so no idea what caused it

Sorry @Stuart21UK I thought you’d also had the drain tube failure / wet interior.

19 hours ago, Withy said:

I know that this has been covered a few times - is there any general guidance if there is condensation in the cabin - front windscreen specifically.  I see nothing wrong with drain holes, and the carpets are bone dry.  I have a couple of the silica gel bag things too, but still if the car is left there is a fair amount of condensation which needs dried off.  I've also noticed that when the windows are down, then up there is some moisture there too (on the outside of the drivers window, and on the inside of the passenger window).  Any guidance on if window seals/door seals can perish over time?  It's a late 2014 

Hi @Withy I guess you’ve read the other posts. My experience with a 981S was really bad windscreen / and side window condensation (especially on the screen) way more than previous Boxsters.

I also couldn’t feel wet carpets - but one of the rear drain tubes had blocked / dislodged (ones that run down from the either side of the roll hoop).

They can dislodge block / way lower than you can see.

The area under my (dry to touch) carpets was very wet - the control units, even though they are mounted higher in the 981 were swimming. Everything still functioned (weirdly) wasn’t until it was dried out it all failed 😂.

If you can get down to the actual floor under the seat - through the cut out in the carpet etc - have a feel, hopefully it’s not that. 

Some experienced damp on the seat belt - felt if you fully unwound them when the rear drains failed.

Think @Stuart21UK had similar.