Jump to content

jonogt6

Members
  • Posts

    808
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by jonogt6

  1. On 6/5/2024 at 9:22 AM, Nobbie said:

    As mentioned earlier in the tread, mine had some fairly serious rust and I have now scrapped it with this being a contributory factor. The worst bit I found was on the NS chassis leg that I hadn’t noticed when I posted last. This is potentially more serious as it provides the front crash protection.

    gX2oVxd.jpeg
    tY74Lux.jpeg
     

    OS starting to go the same way and bumper mounting frames really shot.

    NizfvrX.jpeg

    Djbqon4.jpeg

    The other major corrosion point was on the main chassis rails just behind the front sub frame

    r4OAK93.jpeg
     

    5WwU7uG.jpeg
     

    The car also had perforating rust under the OS air intake which is a known rust trap caused by a piece of foam holding water against the inside. Apart from this the car looked in really good bodywork condition with few clues about the horrors underneath. Surprisingly enough, the areas around the jacking points were structurally sound with only surface rust when there have been a few reports of serious corrosion in these areas.

    JmVkiPv.jpeg
    Xm6muBz.jpeg
     

    For context, the car was a 1999 with 165k on the clock and a history of year round commuting. There were clues to the conditions it had been exposed to when changing the suspension when ever drop link had to be drilled out and two of the coffin arms had to be cut out due to being siezed solid by corrosion.

    By contrast, the engine and gearbox were still in A1 condition and never missed a beat.

    Wow for a Boxster that's really really rusty. My 99 lived outside on grass under cover for 10 years and looks nothing like that...and ive spent a fair amount of time underneath it over the years! Any ideas why it got so bad? Sorry to hear you've scrapped it BTW.

  2. 3 hours ago, Nobbie said:

    Did you used to do the 20 mile blast when you didn’t use the Wynns? I’m still sceptical, but have used the stuff as it’s a cheap gamble. Didn’t work in my case, but my car dealer friend swears by the stuff.

    Yes I always present the car to the testers fully warmed up. Whether they test the emissions immediately is another matter!

  3. I used to be very cynical of emissions reducers/cat cleaners, but after years and years of marginal passes because of emissions problems even after replacing the cats and 02 sensors I tried Wynns Pre-emission Test treatment in 2022. For the 1st time in 11 years of ownership it sailed straight through without a problem. Last year for reasons I cannot fathom I decided not to use it...and guess what, it was flagged up as almost failing  on emissions. So this year I used it again and to my surprise it sailed through. I'm definitely a convert now and would recommend it combined with a good 20 mile blast prior to dropping it off.

    • Like 1
  4. On 2/23/2024 at 5:34 PM, phazed said:

    As title. Has anyone done this before?

    Any tips, piccies etc would be useful. I won't be using the Porsche seats.

    Cheers.

    Newly acquired 1.5kg Elise seats recently required which sit lower and nearly match the roof.

    8LxrDG7.jpg

    Wow, that seat looks like a Chiropractors nightmare!

  5. Had mine 11 years now. I really can't think of a good reason to change it. Its a bit slow perhaps, but on a summers day with the roof down on country roads its fab and the way it goes around cornersis perfect. I seemed to spend silly  money on replacing parts and repairs when I first had it but for the last few years it's been fault free and cost next to nothing to own. Although I am replacing a lower coffin arm at the moment as its got an irritating creak/squeek.

    • Like 1
  6. 10 hours ago, ½cwt said:

    2 used ones for £30 form a breaker then??

    Sounds like a decent price but based on my admittedly limited experience of replacing two, the wires tend to break where they enter the crimped end of the ball joint, so new may be a better option for these.

  7. 43 minutes ago, Norbert said:

    Really ? Harpic 10x would work? I have been thinking how to clean the rust, possibly paint it. Thanks for the tip!

     

    46 minutes ago, Norbert said:

    Really ? Harpic 10x would work? I have been thinking how to clean the rust, possibly paint it. Thanks for the tip!

    Yes it has an active rust remover. Only on modest staining though but brought mine up a treat with minimal effort

  8. On 1/8/2024 at 3:05 PM, Norbert said:

    UPS finally delivered the exhaust today. Apparently it was loaded in the wrong van causing a 4 days delay. Apart of that the shipping was really fast. The parcel left US (west) in two days and in day 3 it was in London! Really impressive. I didn't have to pay any additional cost. Ebay collected the 20% and the custom duty was 0% as the product was manufactured in the EU. The total is GBP356 (108 was the exhaust, 188 delivery and 59 VAT). The condition is much better than anything you can find here, only surface corrosion . image.thumb.jpeg.a494aa6b7854941713cb98d77e2841f3.jpeg

    You could clean that surface staining off in no time with some Harpic 10x and a bit of wire wool. If you fancy it all shiny that is.

  9. 2 hours ago, Shippers01 said:

    Hi all hope everone had a nice xmas and new year. O.k. issue no 1: car been sat for few weeks and has got little bit mouldy. Wiped with cloth. What is good cleaning stuff that i can use on all interior including leather seats and also roof liner. Anything from halfords that i can go and get quickly and start cleaning!! Issue no 2: car starts up and runs fine then after about 10 mins starts to idle rough and feels like it wants to stall. Makes like chug-chug as though hunting for fuel. Have not used car since end October. I do need new coil packs and plugs so will try and get them at weekend but any ideas much appreciated!!!

    I had the mould problem a few times when my car used to sit outside under a cover for prolonged periods in the winter. To remove it I would buy some of those antibacterial wipes that you can get in most supermarkets. It also keeps the mould away for longer when sat after application.

    • Like 1
  10. 18 hours ago, iborguk said:

    They rot from the inside out in the main.

    That's not the experience I've had with them. The outer seams tend to go first, probably as a result of dirty water, salt, and all manner of other cr*p being sprayed on them for a prolonged period of time combined with hot/cold temperature cycles. 

  11. On 12/25/2023 at 2:13 PM, Norbert said:

    I bought this. Thanks for recomminding this. Import duty seems to be only 4% (shipping excluded).  

    Providing its as good as it looks, I think that's a good deal, even with possible import duties. Let us know when you receive it👍

  12. 14 hours ago, ½cwt said:

    If you think Dansk is expensive, try about £1500 from Porsche for an original one, although it does come with the two U bends and clamps too.  The Dansk systems are largely regarded as a pretty good match for OE in terms of sound and with no droning.  These are pretty big boxes of stainless steel compared to most cars, hence the high price tag to do it properly.

    If you do look for second hand, it must be from a 2.5 as the 2.7 and 3.2 back boxes are supported differently under the rear of the car.

    Good point about the differences between the mounting, although it's very easy to fit the later style to a 2.5...you just need the bracket like the one below.

    LoFfe73y.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  13. 15 hours ago, Norbert said:

    Hi,
    My exhaust back box is probably on the way out as it started to rattle. I have been looking for replacement options but can't find a proper one. These are the options I have found:
    - I could buy a 2nd hand stock exhaust. There are many on eBay but they don't look better than mine. They all look rusted, even the more expensive ones. This is still an affordable solution but I can imagine it wouldn't last long.
    - Buying the eBay style sport exhaust is affordable. I tried it and I was horrified at how bad the droning was. I measured 105!!! decibels around 2500-3000 rpm. That's permanent hearing damage territory in a few hours of drive. Not fun. There may be a way to decrease the drone with exhaust baffles but still not convinced.
    - Another option could be a 2nd hand unit from the US. They look much better (in pictures), no rust. Posting cost would be horrible unfortunately and I have no idea about customs.
    - New aftermarket exhaust (not eBay style) like Dansk. They cost around 1k, really expensive for a back box. I have seen tons of videos revving to redline with this exhaust. I would be more interested in how much they drone. 
    I am not looking for a sports exhaust, I think the stock one sounds nice as is. I am just looking for a reasonable solution to replace my slowly disintegrating exhaust.  I am sure I am not the only one facing this issue. Can you share your view on this? Thanks and happy Christmas!!!

    Having been in the same situation as you several years ago, I'd opt for a used exhaust from a USA dry state, even with postage costs and possible import duties. The one in the photo below looks fantastic with zero corrosion on the outer seams and will probably last another 20 years. Far better than some horrible aftermarket drone box.

    XoFUKh39.jpg

  14. 7 hours ago, phazed said:

    I was impressed at how easy it was to remove the 986 headlamp, especially as it conveniently left the washers intact on the car. I had predicted a bit of a job disconnecting the washers but the lamp unit came out in the seconds.

    Yep a brilliant bit of design. Got to be the easiest head light removal of any car.

  15. 3 hours ago, ½cwt said:

    Inspecting, cleaning and lubricating the lever assemblies on the driver's side of the gear box may help. 

    Several people on here have the green tool, maybe you could borrow?  @bally4563 loaned me his, but then again I also bought his 997 shift assembly too.

    Yep I agree..probably the levers on the side of the gear box. Mine was much better once cleaned out and some spray grease liberally applied to the mechanism.

  16. 13 hours ago, phazed said:

    Nothing done today.

    Yesterday, stripped off front coffin arms as I will replace these with items fitted with Pollybushes. Semi stripped the rear suspension. Can’t remove where the coffin arms bolt to the car as the bolts seem to be seized in the sleeves of the bushes. Hopefully tomorrow will have time to break out the 9 inch angle grinder and get these out. Coffin arms will be replaced with polybushed items.

    I seem to be leaning towards Koni replacement suspension with uprated Eibach springs.

    Any thoughts on the Konis?
    .

    The rear coffin arms will need to be removed by sawing through the eccentric bolt that holds them in place. You will need to do this on each side of the arm inside the upright where it bolts through l. I can't think of a way you could do it using an angle grinder, you need a reciprocal saw.

×
×
  • Create New...