daz05

Check AC rads, exhaust bolts, pse valves (if fitted), errors associated with Padm on cars with sports chrono. Check headlights aren't delaminated or cracked and door cards aren't warping. Check for condensation and have drains cleared but less urgent in the Cayman.

Over revs etc not such a risk with pdk, and these cars are generally reliable, more so than any other model in the range. Check service history, when is the next major and check condition of discs and offer accordingly.

Ps - they are useless in snow unless you have winters.

20 minutes ago, Patt said:

I do enjoy mine since having the kit fitted, although it can be a tad bouncy on the 19" winters compared to the 20 " summers.

I am currently in the process of trying to re-align the dipped beam as I have definitely lost the distance they had before the install.  MOT man said I had plenty of margin to play too.

Most seem to refuse to touch due to the self adjusting system of the PDLS.

Can you jack it another 10 mm and draw a line where the beam is and then increase to suit 😂

With the wrecked lights I bought all stripped down, I dropped the headlight inners at the painters today to black them out.

All was going well until the lower lamp! They painted everything gloss back except the part around the bulb bit so I will have to paint.  It all comes off very easy and it looks like the gt4 or gts headlamp finish underneath.

Chrome is coming off with a wet wipe, perfect gloss black finish beneath it 😂

I started cutting up an old broken light I picked up, an interesting and slightly frustrating experience but I think I'm making progress once you cut around the edge it all starts to make sense.

I also hit the lens with a hammer just to see and it's damn strong 😂

I saw a deal on these today, 10% off when you send them a message on eBay saying 'It's Spring'

You message them after purchase for the rebate.

No experience of these but I bought a plain one today, not sure I like the other version.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394092375821?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=s2keyfp7stq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=RSo8GPcuSbu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Nice how does it ride?

7 hours ago, Raffe said:

Cars in at Indy having H&R springs fitted and they’ve advised of the crusty exhaust bolts (and sent a vid) where they look like they’ve been at the bottom of the ocean for the last 50 years.

Told them to go ahead and replace with stainless as don’t want a failure like I had on my 987 which then impacted our trip around the NC500 trying to find a garage to fix for half a day.

I carry a clamp in the glovebox now 🤣

18 minutes ago, andygo said:

Pleased that you like your car again, especially as you have done so much to it.  Whats the story with performance graph on the cluster - is it a mod you have done?

👍 Miles = Smiles that's the challenge you fave with not using the car often over winter.

I think they are essentially GT4 goodies which are available but not activated in the regular cars. The gear shift assist was active on manual cars.

As you rev the car a dot moves to show you where you sit on the power/torque curve.

https://images.app.goo.gl/awneMfXQxpZ7uGTU8

A nice day so joined the local group for a drive to Balmoral area, after my recent alignment the toe up front was zero'd but it felt a tad fidgety on our rutted roads wheel moving around in my hands. Last night I managed a tiny  turn on each side to increase toe in and now it's just right.

I've also enabled the gear change screen so it lights up yellow to red at the red line, performance graph screens in the cluster, complete waste of time but they look cool.

After recent setbacks and without using it, I had considered a change but all it takes is one good drive to put those thoughts well and truly to one side.

No experience but based on the above 👎 an interesting name for a soft top expert.

PTV is holding the rear brake on the inside wheel to help you enter and exit corners you can see why it's cooking brakes.

@ATMthey would add it to the vehicle order as an official retrofit, but I don't think it changes the behaviour of the TC/stability system. Maybe someone who had it retrofitted will know for sure. Here we are discussing the arb only so they definitely don't have a setting for that!

The GT4 has 3 ARB settings at the rear and you wouldn't code after each adjustment.

Some 981s have the LSD with torque vectoring it was an option, cars with this fitted brake the rear and tracked tend to go through rear brakes much faster than than those without. My Golf R has it too.

I know in PIWIS you can programme your pasm dampers to suit shorter springs I'm keen to lower mine another 10mm so would definitely code those to suit.

49 minutes ago, map said:

What is the physics/engineering behind this?

How is the X73 ARB integrated with the car’s stability management electronics?

Don’t have any e-stability on my aged 986 but I do have a locking diff and an adjustable ARB on the rear axle - am always keen to learn about chassis behaviour which is why I ask the question.

Thanks in advance. 

It's a slightly thicker and solid bar Vs the hollow one as fitted originally. Stiffening the rear relative to the front reduces understeer. Porsche has done the same with some models of the 718, using the stiffer x73 bar at the rear. They also added an additional bracing back there.

The stability management software is not linked to fitment of the x73 package. There is adjustment in your geo to tweak to suit the revised set up.

The X73 rear ARB allows you to rotate the car under throttle.

1 hour ago, GTSMarky said:

The front pushes hard on my BGTS and will easily be destroyed if you're not conscious of what's happening as the day progresses & drive accordingly.  This is why the GT4 exists in my eyes..

Tbh I think it behaves similarly, some improvement with stiffness and the downforce will come into play at higher speeds but camber adjustment is limited on these in the same way it is for us.

The GT4 allows you to adjust the balance with the ARBs.

When I maxed out the camber on mine for road use it felt a bit fidgety and ate the inside edges rather quickly!

11 minutes ago, McDonald said:

Good grip is everything. It's the long life of the driver that matters. I've fitted MPS4S and the car feels so sure-footed.

I think you are mistaking Pirellis for Linglongs.

6 minutes ago, andygo said:

They use the P4's in the Ginetta Academy race championship. They are only allowed 2 sets (I think) per year. My son did 3 races and qually at Brands last year in one of those Ginettas and they were fine.

I doubt many users would give them more of a beating, even on a track day!

In a car that weighs so much more and road geo the edges will overheat very quickly.

Love my Ps4s but I don't think they last as long as my Pirellis did. 

Back in business and slowly building our relationship up again.

Ok I see I think that's good news, maybe the power wire has been damaged and rubbing when you've been driving.  I would inspect it carefully and take it from there.

They are saying you could tap into a 12v feed that works off the ignition (accessory position). I wouldn't do that because you have tested the fuse and it's ok

The fact your box is flashing blue suggests it is receiving power so now I'm thinking you have a problem elsewhere but are you sure the fuse is ok? I'm no spark but I thought you have some resistance on the multimeter similar to when touching points together ?

The 2 way sport seats plus ones are really good. Prefer the full electric memory seats in a daily especially when you share it with the wife.

Apparently not but I'm yet to change my rear brakes.

Yes but is it any good?