½cwt

5 minutes ago, PaulQ said:

Not having much luck are you. Check boot under carpet before fearing the worst. 

 

Not as bad as a tank full of coolant under the car with evidence of it dripping down from the tank area??  I haven't pulled the carpet but there's no smell of coolant/moisture in there.

Question on tanks, Porsche is about £250, after market ones are about £120 to £150 anyone got experience of the AM ones like Retroline from Design 911??

Good Day, Bad Day, Worse Day.

Good: Took the car to Dove House in Rushden for an oil change & service.  MOT booked next week so they have flagged some possible issues like rubbers in the coffin arms deteriorating, slight play in a front tuning fork (possible source of high speed front vibration) and a slightly weepy rear damper and they also spotted a number plate light out.  Good professional service. 🙂

Bad: Costing up 4 coffin arms, 2 front tuning forks, two rear drop links and two Bilstein B4 rear shocks at about £850.  Anyone got any tips on current good value suspension parts?  Cost here based on reasonable numbers for non Porsche branded parts from D911 ☹️

Worse: Finally when I stopped on the drive after getting home and put the roof up I got out to see a nice pool of orange water under the right rear wheel.  Looks like the bloody header tank has just split. 

2 hours ago, pacificjuha said:

Yes, those are the dust seals that I circled. My concern is that one has come loose adn another seems to be 'puffed'.

Look like the dust boots have perished with heat & age.  I'd pop the pads out and check all the dust boots and see if there is damage behind them around the piston itself or leaking fluid.  Worst case is likely to be pistons out and new seals as well as dust boots, but you've got to do a lot to kill a caliper.

10 hours ago, Knobgoblin said:

FIxed the key fob. Got two keys with the car on Sunday, neither worked to unlock or lock the car.

I discovered one fob when pressed actualy lit the red LED, but only one button worked. I took it apart and one of the switch things fell out. I took the battery out and tried it in the other fob, both buttons work but the LED doesn't do anything. 

I bent up the battery contacts slightly  inside the holder and got the LED to stay dimly lit, but did nothing when buttons pressed. 

Further manipulation of the contacts and suddenly the LED blinks when both buttons pressed.  

I'm assuming its been non working for a long time but I'm aware the car had been garaged for 8 years or so and maybe hadn't been locked/unlocked hardly Went out to it, pressed both buttons and it suddenly unlocked and locked, flashing the indicators each time.

Amazing!!!

Good to hear of another free fix!

3 hours ago, edc said:

Nobody's made this. The glass is smaller to clear the hoops properly so when you get an aftermarket pre facelift glass hood it's a whole piece of glass and fabric. 

I meant pre-facelift shaped hood.  I am aware it would be a whole new hood with a different sized window, hence my query to @the baron above about visibility as I know he has one.

7 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

Yup. Goes with the cassette player in the dash. 

Nah, mines a 2000 S so CD in dash, CD storage and CD changer... then again I've replaced the head unit with a Bluetooth compatible one, deleted the CD storage with a paling shelf and flogged the autochanger.  Perhaps a glass window in a new pre-facelift hood does start to make some sense. 🤔

7 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

IF you have the budget, not sure why anyone would refit plastic. 

Originality?  Got to keep up the tradition of the Boxster chop followed by the anguish of a split screen.  

4 minutes ago, the baron said:

I paid around £600 fully fitted about 3yrs ago so would imagine its well within budget

I re-read their pricing, looks £775 fitted now unless there is a BoXa.net discount (?), I originally thought that was product only.  That changes the maths a bit. It will, cost £50 in fuel to get the car to them as well, bit I could drop SWMBO off at her mother's in Tunbridge Wells for a visit whilst I take the car to them.  See, Man Maths hard at work here!

8 hours ago, the baron said:

Its actually bigger than you'd think, here's the best pic I've got but if you zoom in on the window you can see its actually quite big and certainly you don't notice any difference from the original when your in the cabin.

For some reason the links are uploading like they used to but if you cut and paste it should work

https://imgur.com/N6m0qSm

[img]https://i.imgur.com/N6m0qSm.jpg[/img]

 

 

Thanks Steve.  Budget at the moment is indicating a replacement screen, I haven't got £1k at the moment or even £800 if I DIY fit which I'm not sure about my skills to do this, much more at home with nuts and bolts or wires, but maybe a longer term project I can budget for or for the next time it goes.

5 minutes ago, the baron said:

I went with the Carhood option, and don't regret it, you get a glass rear window which actually looks good plus it is heated so no issues in the winter, plus you can lower the hood in any temperature, just a few things to consider, I do however from Oct-April have the hardtop installed which changes the dynamics of the car, in looks and comfort.

What's rear vision from the interior mirror like from what is quite a narrow rear window?

2 minutes ago, dunks said:

Hoodtech only work on a mobile basis.... They come to you

Doh! missed that detail in your post. Thanks.

2 minutes ago, PaulQ said:

Yes, I think the glass looks odd on pre facelift glass hoods though..... 

A new mohair hood with glass sounds nice, but to be honest I've leaning very much toward getting a pro to replace the PVC panel for under £300, which should last several years and I can't justify a new hood budget currently having checked several places and prices whilst posting these replies.  The fabric on the current hood is in pretty good condition for the age of the car, although I know from the PO that it is the third hood on the car, the original black hood rear screen split on him which he replaced second hand with another black one which also split and then he fitted the current blue one also second hand and I prefer the blue on the Arctic Silver, differentiates it from a lot of the other silver 986s..

5 minutes ago, dunks said:

Go for the later glass screen , I got mine changed and it makes the car look a lot more modern , also saves having to get out and do the chop each time. I didnt use the forum sponsors though, I used hoodtech.co.uk , they only work on a mobile basis, yes more expensive than the sponsor, but for me the extra was worth paying instead of having a 5 hours round trip and 5 hours sitting waiting for the roof to be done as well

Kettering to Warrington is a 2½ hour haul so alas your recommendation isn't an option.  I have through  t'internet found a place in Coventry only 45mins away and a mobile service out of Milton Keynes who will replace just the PVC screen.  A big part of me want to stick with the original shape for the age of the car at least.  It is likely to come down to budget at the end of the day though.

11 minutes ago, PaulQ said:

I have this dilemma. Thankfully the screen is still intact atm, I just can't see bugger all through it. 

Steve Strange wants 750 quid for a used facelift roof, which seems very pricey. 

Fortunately mine is just a short crack/split across the bottom corner so will not spread further across the PVC.  Currently discretely patched with some good clear tape.

Given facelift price, Car Hood do the pre-facelift shape but with glass for less than £800 plus fitting so not sure I'd give Steve the money on this occasion.

Took it for a trip over to my parents today.  Stopped part way to put the hood down. Partly opened it ready to do the Boxster chop and found a split in the bottom left corner of the plastic window.... ☹️😠🤬  Frustrating as I've been really careful to do the chop and also not open it when cold in the two years I've had it.

The question now is - get current hood repaired with new plastic window, fit complete original hood from salvage (but still risks window splitting again), get salvage post facelift complete hood and frame or get new pre-facelift shape hood with glass window from the Forum sponsors?

8 hours ago, GmanB said:

I've never heard of stretching wheel bolts tbh, didn't know it was a thing. If mine don't stretch surely just checking the torque every now again would be enough?

I tend to get through tyres quickly so this metal fusion doesn't really get a chance to take place. I drive it a lot, she's not a garage queen by any chance, I also like to just strip the wheels and clean everything thoroughly at least once in the summer. Not worried about metal reacting on the wheels at all, the only part where it could happen is the back side of the wheel and the hub but everyone has that problem. Usually a good kick on a stubborn wheel and it works loose, I've had them on 2 years and no problems what so ever, in fact less problems since I remove the crappy alloy porsche bolts. This may change once the chrome plating lets go and the paint off the alloy is gone, but will update if there are any changes. More than likely the wheel would have been repainted by then. 

Stretch bolts are not uncommon for major suspension (I've seen them on Merc and VW cars before) or cylinder head bolts (K series and some VW engines) that the designer would specify as a one time only fit, but not wheel bolts.  You can often tell a stretch bolts from the tightening criteria, x torque plus a ¼ or ½ extra turn to ensure that fraction of yield.

38 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

I'd be very happy for s/s for the cosmetic reasons. I just wonder if they are OK in terms of metallurgical properties? Either the s/s reacting with the alloy, or that people say wheel bolts are expected to stretch a bit... Am not a metals expert but have seen these issues discussed here before, so hope the above are OK for it.

If the floating collar is not s/s and only the bolt that is s/s then it will not come into contact with the alloy therefore no dissimilar electrolytic corrosion which would still be a potential issue with mild steel.  s/s can be more brittle than other mild steel alloys which as a wheel bolt is fitted putting a rotational shear stress into it and performs with a tension and shear loading is quite critical.  However I would have to assume as they are being sold by a reputable source that they have selected the correct s/s alloy and they are fit for purpose.

35 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

But they didn’t explain the reason, Hard and Black I learned. 

Correct, an no lead in sight, all graphite and clay.

1 hour ago, GmanB said:

Yes, I used the soft round brush thingy on the end. Something flowered recently nearby and the roof was covered with white cr*p. 

A lint roller is also handy to have, very cheap from Ikea, or a clothes brush as they tend to be softer than most other brushes and it is fabric after all.

3 hours ago, Cheddar Bob said:

 

I'm sure that will happen to us all at some point. Unless of course it was intentional

In this case it was terminal for the car ☹️

50 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Ask @Darkstar to have a go for you, IIRC he managed it.

Not only wheelspin but full car rotation....

Booked oil & filters service for 15 Sept at Dove House, Rushden, and MOT the following Saturday.

6 hours ago, Paul P said:

 - I am surprised that more aren't stolen not least because of the tyres, and as a side point - they are a standard security feature of the car and it's a consideration if (for all the right, sensible, practical reasons) someone decides to remove them.

 

...then your insurer might well not pay out, as the vehicle was modified from factory spec by removing the locking wheel nut security feature???  We know how weasly insurers can be....

7 hours ago, Paul P said:

And possibly your roof has seen more action in the past 4 weeks than it did in the previous 4 years - wonder if somewhere in its brain it keeps a count of how many times the roof has been operated.......

And how often has it been lubricated to keep down the friction loads in the sliding and pushing bits that could overload plastic bits and cause them to break?

Just now, the baron said:

I think you were over charged my friend, I bought a cup holder and the ashtray delete with rubber mat all in for £53 inc VAT, that was with my PCGB membership car discount. The ashtray was around £30 and the cupholder £23

Damn, and £30 for cup holders. They saw me coming, again!