½cwt

10 hours ago, Berni29 said:

 Pressed the droplink pinch bolt out of the housing (took 5t pressure) destroying the droplink in the process. Will be doing the same the other side tomorrow sadly.

 

Guess those aren't coming out in most DIY environments then...  Good to know that it is best to get the upright off and take it to someone with a press straight away rather than wasting hours on it.

Thanks @rowbos 👍

53 minutes ago, StephenM said:

New pollen filter for the car today, was surprised to find no metal clip holding the air filter in but a slide on plastic one !

I have also Washed the seat belts as they were not retracting very well so will see if that helps once they have dried properly.

Please report back on the success, or otherwise, of the washing and what you used as my driver's side belt is very lazy at retracting.

2 hours ago, Berni29 said:

... and put it on my 12t press ...

Got to love a well equipped DIY garage!

1 hour ago, Stewart_H said:

I did this nice little fix during my lunch break today and was amazed it only took me about 3mins! This has annoyed me ever since I bought the car and I always assumed it would need a replacement vent. I only needed to use a pair of small, long nosed pliers. 1st pic is before, 2nd and 3rd are after (yes, I will be cleaning the dust off later 😁).

Satisfying cheap fix on a Porsche 😉  Just a matter of knowhow!

41 minutes ago, Boxob said:

My driver's side vent had partially collapsed. I was able to reassemble it with a pair of long nose pliers through the vent. The vertical and horizontal vanes clip together. My guess is air freshers or phone holders clipped to the vents cause the problem.

Did you find all the pieces? If so you might be able to reassemble them and sell them on?

Yep, long nose pliers and a small Allen key to help put behind the vertical strip to make sure the horizontals all clip back in one at a time.  Fiddly rather than difficult.

21 minutes ago, the baron said:

At least it was a simple fix.

I'll let you know once I've got the alternator out...!  But yes, I got home with only a small inconvenience.

Broke down in it....   (no not crying before everyone start no that one)

Seems a slam dunk regulator failure on the alternator, no voltage change at battery when engine is running.  Just didn't have enough battery to get me home having had ABS, then ABS & Battery warning flashing together sporadically.  Stopped to pick up some parts, ironically at my local OPC, and then got ABS and air bag (but no battery) warning plus fan and radio cut outs.  I gave up when the alarm started sounding whilst I was driving due tot eh voltage drop I imagine.  AA got me going again, only about a 20 minute wait so quite happy there plus it was a sunny day on a country lane so quite a pleasant location to break down, my luck would usually be in the pi**ing rain on a motorway.  Now to remove the alternator and get it to my local auto electrics/Bosch alternator specialist for repair....

Last time I went to my OPC my MAF failed, conspiracy theory anyone?

4 minutes ago, the baron said:

Age is a wonderful  thing 😂

I'll take your word for it as definitive!

2 hours ago, the baron said:

Earlier models only drop the window, they don't go back up after closing the roof. Not sure when that changed

OK, thanks Steve.  Guess its always been like that.  Mrs @½cwt's Golf cabrio and  her 2 Eos before that did close them so I guessing I'm getting confused in my old age.

16 hours ago, Bike Loon said:

If the windows were closed, when you pressed the button for the roof to go up they would do the 2 inch drop and when you pulled the handle at the end it would re close them yes. Think the earlier post was saying if the windows were open when the roof close started

The issue was if the windows were up already and then closing the hood.  IT may never have done it but the roof is down so often at the moment it just seems a slight irritant rather than major problem.

1 hour ago, Darren Sapsford said:

Cheers, just strange it has worked fine since I got the car and now suddenly stopped and only the passenger window drops to lower the roof? 

The window issue could be the electrics to the driver door. Does the driver's side window work normally otherwise?

I have an issue with mine that when closing the roof the windows don't go up on completion of the operation. 

👍👍  Book marked!

Welcome, good entrance!

Add your location to your profile it will help other offer relevant help.

3 hours ago, Darren Sapsford said:

Fitted new track rod ends, new gear lever gaitor, mocked up where the race seat is going, realized the remote locking doesn't work anymore despite not having any battery issues and a good machine polish

Do you have 2 keys and both have stopped or just he one no longer working?  If you only have 1 key, either the microswitch has failed in the key head, quite common, or the coding has gone out of sync I imagine.  This seems to be cropping up more often on older or more used 986s, the system seems to only be able to cope with so many transactions, exacerbated by key fiddling when the car is out of range.  Try keyfobrepair.co.uk for a switch repair, £37.50 including postage.  They have fixed quite a few posters' keys and did a repair on mine before I found the out of sync problem.  There is a routine to follow to maybe get back in sync involving turning the key left and right in the driver's door lock whilst holding the lock button, but I can't find it currently and as not successful in my case.  This was my spare at the time, In then successfully screwed everything up put putting my other fully working key through the wash.... £230 at local OPC later to get a fully working key with a new key head and programming, oh plus a cup of coffee FOC.

51 minutes ago, map said:

Might be missing something in terms of adjustable arms and a 986 but here goes......

Standard car - Yes

OE/OEM components - Yes

Aligns to factory tolerances - No 

The answer to this conundrum may not be adjustable parts but could be revealed in the answer to another question. 

That question might be: “Why won’t this bolt up and align to standard?”

Please just ask and critically answer that question before adding adjustable bits and pieces.

👍 the correct approach to problem solving.  Don't just throw parts at it.

13 hours ago, Dan944 said:

thankyou for this, will go through it better tommoriw 👍 

ps are you saying mines coming up as a 2.7?... should be 2004 3.2s 

i may be getting confused with what your message meant , my brain is fried tonight 

Sorry, misread the engine number late at night, brain fried also!  It is a 3.2 motor made in 2004.

@Dan944

This link takes you to a lookup for all the codes and options:

https://www.stuttcars.com/technical/option-codes/

Some headlines the engine is a 2.7 built in 2002 and the car was built in the Finnish plant which many report as having a better build quality record than Stuttgart.

32 minutes ago, Scubaregs said:

@T911UK believe you can decode for the OP?

There is a website that lists all the possible factory build options which I'm trying to find.

3 hours ago, Dan944 said:

i will check my sticker later just got  to move a few vehicles about in order to get to the bonnet. i changed one front shock when i got it as it was an old advisory and was leaking. it looked to me to be the age of the car. 

what would be the visual difference between standard and mo30?

I believe it is -10mm ride height.  Also the dabs of paint on the coil springs are different if you want to go that deep....  Blue and yellow for standard fronts, not sure about rears and M030 springs.

43 minutes ago, Dan944 said:

thanks , and yes the suspension seems to be standard but the car does seem lowered so could be sagging possibly? i suppose i’d have to get a side profile pic as i’m not really clued up on what these should look like on 18s but it does seem low to me! 

Has it got the M030 sports suspension option?  Look at the spec label under the bonnet in the block of 3 digit numbers for the number 030,  standard suspension is 029. A previous owner could have changed something since of course but it is a starting point.

2 hours ago, edc said:

Toe affects the turn in much more than camber. Mine isn't a daily driver but I find it fine on the times it goes on a motorway. This one and previous one set up kind of the same and both done week long joins around Europe no problem. 

OK, back to back real world comparison.  Factory spec for camber is 10' +/- 30' so between 20' positive camber and 40' negative camber.  Tested the car at 18' positive camber  which is what was measured yesterday, and looks like the car has always been set like that based on the witness marks of the top mount nuts, as I refitted it all to the same positions when I reassembled the front suspension and total 3' toe in.  I now have max camber with out slotting the holes which reports say should be around 50' which is about 10' more than factory tolerance and total toe in still 3'.  The turn in remains the same however main difference on normal roads at least seems to be the feel after turn in whilst in the corner with lock on it all seems a bit more responsive, which ties up with the outer tyre rolling onto its contact patch due to the combination of negative and body roll rather than rolling off the contact patch with positive camber. Total adjustment approx. 70', which is a pretty significant change in suspension terms, but not much real world effect but enough to make me want to keep the new setting.  No effect on dual carriageway driving from what I could feel.

1 minute ago, Berni29 said:

Hi 

Interesting, I intend to set the suspension up myself on mine. I have already changed the rear legs, and will do the fronts soon.

I had read that it's hard to get any camber on the standard set up, but I only want it within standard spec anyways. I will be sure to rebolt the to turrets to get max neg in any case, just to make life easier.

How much were you charged and what equipment used?

Tks

Berni

It was at Kwikfit under their 8 track ups in 2 years Geocare deal it was on Hunter equipment.  I've used 3 of the 8 now in 12 months but with the knowledge I needed to do suspension work at some point I figured at least I'd get a report even if they are not the best at precise settings.  When I've worked through the suspension next year and fitted my 18" rims I'll get a full specialist track up done but in the meantime it serves a purpose and I don't have to worry about tracking costs if I do the jobs in several smaller batches to help cashflow...

Had tracking done after recent front suspension work.  Quite impressed I'd put it back together with only 0° 16' toe in and camber was on minimum limit and now adjusted to max available on the standard turret holes, so hopefully even better than before.  Have a good reason for a drive this weekend so will find out soon enough.

Just dropped the hood.  Think about where to go with it later...🤔

On 5/3/2020 at 10:33 PM, Richard Hamilton said:

It may do basic coding, but I'm pretty sure if won't do a handover routine.  When a car randomly loses its settings due to a flat or disconnected battery, it doesn't change the coding itself.  It usually puts the affected modules into transit (delivery) mode, and the handover routine wakes them up.

I have the v1 of this as after correspondence with the company I didn't feel the need to pay the extra for tools that are not required on earlier cars like electric hand brake back off.

It is a passive device that can rest and is therefore very helpful for a DIY mechanic, it CANNOT do programming/coding like cruise control or a handover.  For more in depth work you with need a higher level tools such as Durametric, PWIS etc.

I have used it to rest ABS after changing a sensor and reset engine fault codes after a MAF sensor failure and change.  If you have 986/996 or 987/987 then v1 at just under £100 is a very useful tool to have and will cover the read and reset functions for those models as well as give live data if you want it.  Mine has already saved me that in fault code reads.  It will work as a general OBD2 reader for compliant Makes and models for engine related codes only though.

Per the offer above from @TV8 I am willing to help people in around South Mids.