½cwt

39 minutes ago, jcbaldock said:

Had a custom rear cage fitted 😀

 

Extreme, but nice!  Enjoy tracking it.

8 hours ago, Mr96er said:

Think you just sent half the forums imagination running wild!  

Only half ??? 🤔

On 9/29/2019 at 12:00 PM, Sean986 said:

Thanks for your advise, hard to find much information as it doesn’t seem to be a common conversion 

There might be a good reason for that... 

Anyway, I hope the info, or random meanderings, in my PM helped too.

4 minutes ago, Sean986 said:

I hope it will just be like having it under a bonnet where paintwork is fine though?🤞

You get a lot of extra airflow under a bonnet compared to the two side inlets in a 986, even if it is second hand from the rads it is a lot cooler than a turbo.  Think of the number of turbo cars with grilles in the bonnet or extra out lets to draw air out of the engine bay into the lower pressure airflow around the car.  They also often have an extra heat shield over the turbo.  The are not boxed into a chamber.  Perhaps direct some air flow from the undertray up into the boot?

42 minutes ago, Mr96er said:

Funny coincidence....

I was thinking when that turbo starts working hard, heat protection is going to be required for the boot lid....

LOVE. THIS. PROJECT. 👍👍👍👍

Think @Sean986 that you're going to need something a bit more heavy duty than my aluminium/LDPE sheeting solution.  Lots of exhaust wrap and some aluminium faced glass fibre matting at least, or it may be prudent to change the header tank to an alloy one (you might need a specialist fabricator for that or lots of changes to the water plumbing) or at least box it in in ally sheeting.  Then start thinking about the boot lid.  May be let in a louvred panel like the top element of the rear spoiler from a C2 of even make it an intercooler?

Also looks like you're using regular 8.8 grade bolts on the manifold flanges unless this is a test installation…  Something high tensile and heat tolerant with K-nuts might be an option.  If I recall the turbo nuts we used on the FPA single seaters were some special heat grade steel and cost a fortune each!  One of the reason the corporate single seaters at PalmerSport became Formula Palmer Jaguars with the back end for the 2 seat Palmer Jaguar sports cars.  Made the suspension parts a lot cheaper too but lats a longer story.

Still pictures look similar!

Fitted some additional insulation to the boot to help reduce heat transfer to the luggage.

Fitted the VW relay kit that gives one touch 3 flash indicators and wrote it up for you all to see!

See How To: 

Washed mine ready to take it to Sywell meet in the morning.

That's a lot of induction pipework, what's the lag like even on the low boost you're running?

Nice bit of fun. They do rev higher than 5500...

18 hours ago, some bloke said:

I fitted an ashtray-delete thing:

The ashtray wouldn't stay shut and I'm a non-smoker, so it made sense.

And gives some storage at least with the console delete too.

It took it to Le Mans this year and really it was a PITA on the autoroute, so much so that we stayed on the legendary old N138 (mostly now D338 or D438) most of the way from Le Mans to Rouen in both directions. 

Today's test to prove the fix was near Northampton del Sol... 

So 365 days of Porsche ownership as of today!

Took it to Tyres Northampton this morning to get an out of true front wheel straightened.  It was only really detectable as a problem over about 70mph and only really noticeable above 80mph so I only really notice it on the continent 😉.  Great service as always with caution about the possibility of cracking the alloy and so on.  Went ahead with it and even thought they didn't charge the full rate (£40 instead of £75) as they said they couldn't get it perfect but they did rebalance the other front too, no sign of wheel vibrations at all now 

Only one job that was needed when I bought it or that's come along this year that is out standing now which is a front to rear brake line replacement.

+1

Go for a pre MOT inspection, not a formal MOT.  That way you find the faults that are most likely to be an MOT issue (you can never be sure as testers are human and see different things different ways...) but they don't appear on the car's record, just on your To Do list.

Can't believe this thread dropped to page 2! Has no one else been doing any tinkering?

Today I have solved the lack of interior lights in my car that's been there since I got it.  After getting wiring diagrams and other advice from @Richard Hamilton The background to the fault was in the alarm control module which has obviously got wet at one time at least in the past.  The good fortune was that is has only stopped the power getting to the interior light circuit.  Lost of contact cleaner removed any corrosion residue but did not bring ti back to life.  So after further advice on a hack to solve the problem, today I've cut in to another 12v supply to make a supply for this circuit to by-pass the alarm module and low and behold interior lights! 

Better than that I've also fitted the face lift interior light as the unit I bought I asked the break to include the loom connector wiring so a simple 3 spade connector crimping session to plug the newer connector into the original loom plug and I now have the much better looking later interior light and even the soft yellow background light flooding the console area! 

Hmm 🤔 What next?

On 8/2/2019 at 2:14 PM, ½cwt said:

Sound is certainly and worthwhile improvement judging by my 25 mile journey this morning, just need to get roof down and try it our with all the wind noise around too.

Sound with hood down is a major improvement with the speakers in the back being only inches from your ears and the better sound field of new two way speakers both front, and now in the back too, adds depth that wasn't there before.  I reckon it is a well worth while upgrade.  Thanks to @John2000 for his input into this for me.

Finally got round to taking a look at why I've never had interior/vanity lights since I bought the car last year.  With must helpful input for @Richard Hamilton I ran through the wiring node a found only 0.3 to 0.4v at the BS7 node; not good when it should be 12v...

So dived under the passenger seat (ordinary 6 or 12 point 10mm socket will remove the seat bolts by the way), popped the alarm module out, took off the cover and there we have it corrosion on the circuit board from water damage particularly on connector II, pin 4 of which is the supply to BS7, and a confirmed 0.3 to 0.4v from the relevant terminal.

Ho hum...  I can live with out interior and vanity lights, just a bit inconvenient on dark nights, and as long as I keep it dry it could well out last other major parts of the car.  However has anyone out there got any info on repair options or the actual costs of making good on this issue?

One hack I though of is patching in a 12 volt supply from elsewhere into BS7 thus bypassing that output from the alarm module.  Anyone got any thought on this?

On 7/29/2019 at 11:17 AM, ½cwt said:

OK so I had to cut the OE speakers to make a support frame for the TS 1002i speakers.  Carefully ground back the 4 fixing lugs so they sat tightly in the original speaker rim and epoxy bonded into place.  Also the cover/grille traps the speaker in place.

Made the speaker mounting panels from hardboard and ran the wiring loom into the back storage box for the rear speaker addition including a connector to allow the box to be removed for engine access.  Now to run the speaker cables through the car and add the pins the ISO connector into the back of my Kenwood head unit. Hopefully will complete for next weekend.

Finished fitting the rear shelf and wiring in the speakers.  Added pins to the standard Porsche ISO connector to connect up the rear speakers as the car only had dash speakers to start with.  4 way sound now!  Just need the drivers side grille so might have to got to OPC with will be the second most expensive part after the head unit.  Both pairs of speakers together came in cheaper than the grille price! Got left side from salvage.

Sound is certainly and worthwhile improvement judging by my 25 mile journey this morning, just need to get roof down and try it our with all the wind noise around too.

On ‎7‎/‎21‎/‎2019 at 5:04 PM, ½cwt said:

Also started front speaker upgrade with plan to add speakers to the engine cover storage too, but having taken the original dash speaker out I have decided to get slightly larger speakers for the front rather than using the same all round so ordered up a pair of Pioneer TS1002i to go with the pair of TS-875 that will now go in the back only.  Aiming to fit without cutting up the original speaker holder which seem to be the way most on line 'how tos' approach it.  I'll let you know if it works...

OK so I had to cut the OE speakers to make a support frame for the TS 1002i speakers.  Carefully ground back the 4 fixing lugs so they sat tightly in the original speaker rim and epoxy bonded into place.  Also the cover/grille traps the speaker in place.

Made the speaker mounting panels from hardboard and ran the wiring loom into the back storage box for the rear speaker addition including a connector to allow the box to be removed for engine access.  Now to run the speaker cables through the car and add the pins the ISO connector into the back of my Kenwood head unit. Hopefully will complete for next weekend.

1 minute ago, Barryn said:

Love the stuff, goes into all the crevices, then dries to brown/tan colour coating, very similar to the OE Cosmoline.

Was not aware of the OE product either....  Learning lots here!

So spray onto the condensers and radiators plus into the deep dark corners to help keep grit from sticking to them then?

11 minutes ago, Barryn said:

Bilthamber dynax-UB

Not come across this before.  How effective is it?

8 hours ago, Jules74 said:

Had a rattle coming from the exhaust. Expected a collapsed CAT or broken/rusted clamp etc.. 

 

Turns out it was some gravel stuck in the single pipe chrome trim....

That's a result for the bank balance. 👍 

17 hours ago, PaulQ said:

Thanks. I've never really got my head round to what exactly should be fitted here..... 

One deflector hanging down, as show in the picture, on each side.

Adjusted the handbrake, 2 clicks now.

Also started front speaker upgrade with plan to add speakers to the engine cover storage too, but having taken the original dash speaker out I have decided to get slightly larger speakers for the front rather than using the same all round so ordered up a pair of Pioneer TS1002i to go with the pair of TS-875 that will now go in the back only.  (Not done badly on speakers as both have come as new in open or damaged box, tad under £50 for both paris 👍).  Aiming to fit without cutting up the original speaker holder which seem to be the way most on line 'how tos' approach it.  I'll let you know if it works...

They will produce a small amount of drag, however they also help reduce the aerodynamic lift on the front end of the car caused by the turbulence in the front wheel arches caused by both the space around the tyre and the rotating effect of the wheel by creating a bit of blockage to the airflow under the car at the front of the wheel arch and a small amount of out wash to push air sideways round the front of the tyre.  This will give a more positive front end at speed, particularly if the car is accurately tracked up.  The small rubber lips at the rear will do similar and provide more straight line stability.  

Porsche wouldn't have put them there if they were only for decoration.  If it were decoration they'd have made them look more expensive and probably charge more for them...