½cwt

Can't believe this thread dropped to page 2! Has no one else been doing any tinkering?

Today I have solved the lack of interior lights in my car that's been there since I got it.  After getting wiring diagrams and other advice from @Richard Hamilton The background to the fault was in the alarm control module which has obviously got wet at one time at least in the past.  The good fortune was that is has only stopped the power getting to the interior light circuit.  Lost of contact cleaner removed any corrosion residue but did not bring ti back to life.  So after further advice on a hack to solve the problem, today I've cut in to another 12v supply to make a supply for this circuit to by-pass the alarm module and low and behold interior lights! 

Better than that I've also fitted the face lift interior light as the unit I bought I asked the break to include the loom connector wiring so a simple 3 spade connector crimping session to plug the newer connector into the original loom plug and I now have the much better looking later interior light and even the soft yellow background light flooding the console area! 

Hmm 🤔 What next?

On 8/2/2019 at 2:14 PM, ½cwt said:

Sound is certainly and worthwhile improvement judging by my 25 mile journey this morning, just need to get roof down and try it our with all the wind noise around too.

Sound with hood down is a major improvement with the speakers in the back being only inches from your ears and the better sound field of new two way speakers both front, and now in the back too, adds depth that wasn't there before.  I reckon it is a well worth while upgrade.  Thanks to @John2000 for his input into this for me.

Finally got round to taking a look at why I've never had interior/vanity lights since I bought the car last year.  With must helpful input for @Richard Hamilton I ran through the wiring node a found only 0.3 to 0.4v at the BS7 node; not good when it should be 12v...

So dived under the passenger seat (ordinary 6 or 12 point 10mm socket will remove the seat bolts by the way), popped the alarm module out, took off the cover and there we have it corrosion on the circuit board from water damage particularly on connector II, pin 4 of which is the supply to BS7, and a confirmed 0.3 to 0.4v from the relevant terminal.

Ho hum...  I can live with out interior and vanity lights, just a bit inconvenient on dark nights, and as long as I keep it dry it could well out last other major parts of the car.  However has anyone out there got any info on repair options or the actual costs of making good on this issue?

One hack I though of is patching in a 12 volt supply from elsewhere into BS7 thus bypassing that output from the alarm module.  Anyone got any thought on this?

On 7/29/2019 at 11:17 AM, ½cwt said:

OK so I had to cut the OE speakers to make a support frame for the TS 1002i speakers.  Carefully ground back the 4 fixing lugs so they sat tightly in the original speaker rim and epoxy bonded into place.  Also the cover/grille traps the speaker in place.

Made the speaker mounting panels from hardboard and ran the wiring loom into the back storage box for the rear speaker addition including a connector to allow the box to be removed for engine access.  Now to run the speaker cables through the car and add the pins the ISO connector into the back of my Kenwood head unit. Hopefully will complete for next weekend.

Finished fitting the rear shelf and wiring in the speakers.  Added pins to the standard Porsche ISO connector to connect up the rear speakers as the car only had dash speakers to start with.  4 way sound now!  Just need the drivers side grille so might have to got to OPC with will be the second most expensive part after the head unit.  Both pairs of speakers together came in cheaper than the grille price! Got left side from salvage.

Sound is certainly and worthwhile improvement judging by my 25 mile journey this morning, just need to get roof down and try it our with all the wind noise around too.

On ‎7‎/‎21‎/‎2019 at 5:04 PM, ½cwt said:

Also started front speaker upgrade with plan to add speakers to the engine cover storage too, but having taken the original dash speaker out I have decided to get slightly larger speakers for the front rather than using the same all round so ordered up a pair of Pioneer TS1002i to go with the pair of TS-875 that will now go in the back only.  Aiming to fit without cutting up the original speaker holder which seem to be the way most on line 'how tos' approach it.  I'll let you know if it works...

OK so I had to cut the OE speakers to make a support frame for the TS 1002i speakers.  Carefully ground back the 4 fixing lugs so they sat tightly in the original speaker rim and epoxy bonded into place.  Also the cover/grille traps the speaker in place.

Made the speaker mounting panels from hardboard and ran the wiring loom into the back storage box for the rear speaker addition including a connector to allow the box to be removed for engine access.  Now to run the speaker cables through the car and add the pins the ISO connector into the back of my Kenwood head unit. Hopefully will complete for next weekend.

1 minute ago, Barryn said:

Love the stuff, goes into all the crevices, then dries to brown/tan colour coating, very similar to the OE Cosmoline.

Was not aware of the OE product either....  Learning lots here!

So spray onto the condensers and radiators plus into the deep dark corners to help keep grit from sticking to them then?

11 minutes ago, Barryn said:

Bilthamber dynax-UB

Not come across this before.  How effective is it?

8 hours ago, Jules74 said:

Had a rattle coming from the exhaust. Expected a collapsed CAT or broken/rusted clamp etc.. 

 

Turns out it was some gravel stuck in the single pipe chrome trim....

That's a result for the bank balance. 👍 

17 hours ago, PaulQ said:

Thanks. I've never really got my head round to what exactly should be fitted here..... 

One deflector hanging down, as show in the picture, on each side.

Adjusted the handbrake, 2 clicks now.

Also started front speaker upgrade with plan to add speakers to the engine cover storage too, but having taken the original dash speaker out I have decided to get slightly larger speakers for the front rather than using the same all round so ordered up a pair of Pioneer TS1002i to go with the pair of TS-875 that will now go in the back only.  (Not done badly on speakers as both have come as new in open or damaged box, tad under £50 for both paris 👍).  Aiming to fit without cutting up the original speaker holder which seem to be the way most on line 'how tos' approach it.  I'll let you know if it works...

They will produce a small amount of drag, however they also help reduce the aerodynamic lift on the front end of the car caused by the turbulence in the front wheel arches caused by both the space around the tyre and the rotating effect of the wheel by creating a bit of blockage to the airflow under the car at the front of the wheel arch and a small amount of out wash to push air sideways round the front of the tyre.  This will give a more positive front end at speed, particularly if the car is accurately tracked up.  The small rubber lips at the rear will do similar and provide more straight line stability.  

Porsche wouldn't have put them there if they were only for decoration.  If it were decoration they'd have made them look more expensive and probably charge more for them...

A little etch primer and then a black spray paint over the s/s screws maybe?

1 hour ago, John2000 said:

s... and even a bigger thanks @½cwt  for answering so many of my question....

I'm not a real doctor you know, just a fellow have a go enthusiast, but only with lots of preparation!

It's been a pleasure, thanks for trusting me. @½cwt

6 hours ago, the baron said:

Sit on a cushion, that should sort visibility, thats what my wife does 😂😂😂😂

My seating position was not a problem, it was the height of the boot bag on top of the boot. 

Anyway I posted this six weeks ago, Keep Up!

Driven it for first time since 1st June. Good to be back!

12 hours ago, John2000 said:

@Mark Lane thanks but I'm in no rush yet and 1/2cwt has been very helpfull with his advise. Not driving to Spain until much later in the year so mo rush but thanks again 

You are very kind @John2000.  I got a 4 stalk for 230 from a breaker and only spent about another £30 or so on wire, connectors and pins so less than £270 all in.  It got it switched on FOC but even if that cost £50 still a good budget option.

2.5/2.7 vs 3.2S dash wiring is different work for cruise so check to be sure for OBC too depending on your variant. @Richard Hamilton was very helpful to me in this department with wiring diagrams.

2 hours ago, John2000 said:

I'm looking at adding cruise later but just missed out on a 3 stalk unit, how did you add OBC

If you want OBC & cruise you will need the 4 stalk. From personal experience the cruise is slow and steady work to fit, mine had OBC already but from the write ups the OBC seems rather more connections to make electronically.

1 hour ago, Topbox said:

Nice. A mod that made the self cancel stronger on ageing 986s would be useful too, hood down in bright sun you cant see the flash on the dash and cant hear the beep with the  ear, least I could'nt

It is a mechanical switch in the steering column so the tab that picks up on the column to actuate the cancelling in the switch might be getting worn.  

Completed the 45 miles to Dover on the M2 and the almost 300 miles down to Le Mans area to our destination.  Worth the trip?  I'd let you decide, or at least I would if the thread would let me up load more than 10kB file!!  Do we need a new thread, or can some duplicated images in quotes be tripped out where not relevant?

To describe: silver 2000 S Boxster parked in front of 15th/18th century French gite.

Packed car and fitted new Boot-bag and headed 120 miles down A14/M11/M25/M2 to Chatham for first leg of trip to the Loire Valley. Ran nicely with the retro fitted cruise, new front tyres and tracking. Rear visibility not too compromised with Boot-bag, only about half the height of the mirror is obscured.

11 hours ago, Stewart_H said:

I've been thinking about painting my bolts too. Any recommendations on a decent paint to use?

Probably others have ideas as well, but for simplicity as I had some and for one coat I used Hammerite smooth silver as @Boxob says above.  Just degreased the bolt heads in brake cleaner and made a carrier (hardboard with 22mm holes drilled in it) for the bolts so only the heads were exposed.  They look silver and clean, even the locking bolt.

Also I did only one or two from each wheel at a time I could keep the car on the ground.

New GY Asymmetric 3 225/45/17 91Y fronts fitted today along with a tracking check and a/c recharge.  There was as too much toe in.  Car already feels better (amazing what a lighter wallet can do for your handling), more compliant and more responsive plus a nice blast of cold air on demand. 

Realigned wheel centres and readjusted tyre pressures when I got back from the tyre shop and painted wheel bolts silver so I can ditch the chrome plastic bolt covers fitted by a PO.

Followed up the clay bar treatment from a few days ago with a full Auto Glym Super Resin Polish and the Extra Gloss treatment.  Cleaned all the glass and applied Rain-X to the screen.

Must check out the drip trays tomorrow have read the post above...

Clay bar cleaned the body work after washing it.  Now I know where ALL the paint defects are.  Think I'm even getting the first signs of rot below the driver side intake on the rear three quarter panel, three small bumps in the paint to the lower left.

That'll teach me.

Well I had my 3 Weetabix this morning and finally the pesky (almost) seized bolt on the aircon line gave in without resorting to wrecking either pipe.  The cap head socket was just about to round off but the thread gave at a lot of force.  Fresh O ring and bolt fitted, ran a tap through the ali thread before reassembling just in case, but all good.  Re-gas next weekend.

Fitted new number plate plinth, less that £10 from OPC, salvage guys want over £12 plus delivery, how does that work?

Also started to try to get interior lights and vanity lights working with assistance of info from @Richard Hamilton but left scratching head as wires out of B7 node don't match the diagram...

Also booked in for two new Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 225/45/17 for front next weekend along with a track up.