½cwt
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Posts posted by ½cwt
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45 minutes ago, Theo86 said:
Mine took some aluminium and dragged it all along the thread...ordered two taps to see if I can cut a new thread. If this doesn't work I will look at alternatives!
Passenger top caliper bolt..article says, steel and aluminium are not a partnership made in heaven.
Bernie...freed back how you get on.
M12 x 1.5 fine metric thread, not normal 1.75 mm pitch... Always good to run a tap through if you have the right size to help prevent future seizes even if a bolt does come out OK.
Timeserts are a good repair option if you have no other option with a really bad thread.
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Good note. Might be an idea not to wait the full 6 months and put it in when my preferred testing station is offering tests to all not just essential workers.
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14 hours ago, 987RG said:
Just waxed it following the clay bar yesterday. Don’t think it’s looked so good for a long time (apart from the dent at the top of the drivers door!).
(Recreated post to add the direct links).
I'm pretty sure a dent specialist could remove most if not all trace of that dent.
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5 minutes ago, Christopher2110 said:
Fitted new door speakers. Went for the Sony XS-FB1320E and they lined up perfectly with the existing holes.
Made even easier by the fact the person before me only replaced 2 of the 5 screws holding the door card in place on the drivers side🤔
Also made a start on the tweeters on the dash. Decided I wasn't going to fork out for a fitting kit and was going to DIY it so existing mounts cut and news speakers trimmed and fitted in the mount
Just waiting for the wiring to come now. Had 2 options of either saving the existing plug or spending £2.56 for a new cable and connector. No brainer!
Exactly what I did, leads should plug straight onto the Porsche loom IIRC.
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31 minutes ago, map said:
Porsche Workshop diag tool or Durametic - there’s a map for forum members with a Durametric who are able to help folk needing to recode/enable/diagnose.
Have a search for that thread and see if there’s anyone near you - think it may even be a “sticky”.
Here's the Google Maps link:
Member's names are tagged in the list to show plug in diagnostics. Just PM them through the forum.
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11 hours ago, Nick_McUK said:
The caramel wheel is still by far the quickest way though!
Very effective. Used them lots when sponsor decals changed on race cars. It does feel strange taking a power drill fitting to you paintwork though!
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Put all the last bits back on the car, front PU, repaired wheel arch liners, new (salvaged £6 for 10 delivered) plastic clips and stainless steel screws and a full set of stainless screws, 3 were missing when I took it off. Improved the fit of the bumper PU particularly on the right side compared to my last attempt. After a jump start, not quite enough juice in the battery after 5 weeks standing. Only issue after all the suspension work was the drive's side stone guard was rubbing on the disc so had to tweak it a bit and I forgot to plug in the brake pad wear sensors... I'll admit it took it for a short test drive to ensure the battery charged. Definitely needs tacking but nice to have it back on all fours.
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2 minutes ago, EXY said:
If I was me I would remove the headlights altogether when working on them.
Always marvelled at what a feat of engineering the headlights are.
I thought this, however the car holds then a lot more steady while you work on them….
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1 hour ago, the baron said:
Good man good to see you are getting stuck in, makes me jealous, Im running out of jobs to do on my car
There's always that headlamp polish up you said you want to do in another thread..... Take it nice and slow and it might stretch to a couple of hours.
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1 hour ago, the baron said:
Good man good to see you are getting stuck in, makes me jealous, Im running out of jobs to do on my car
Got the front wheel arch liners and the front underbody tray (after bonding up some splits) back in today along with the rad grilles and trims on the front bumper. Can't refit the PU or the right rad duct yet as need the replacement horns to go in first and they are on back order.
Feeling quite chuffed at getting stuck in and solving problems. Good weather and Lockdown certainly help to make time!
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Finally got my from struts apart to change the springs, bump stops and top mounts having found a broken spring and noticed the bump stops were rather perished. Top nut took a good impact wrench on the nut and mole grips on the piston rod but they finally gave in. Top bearings were in good condition so cleaned them thoroughly and re-greased before reassembly. Gave the front diagonal braces a good wire brushing and the 2 coats of Hammerite as well as brushing and painting the visible part of the dampers up to the spring platforms. Also fitted new ARB bushed and a new track rod end last weekend whilst I had things apart.
Now I can get on with the job I was planning before when I found the broken spring that led to all this work, which is painting the calipers and replacing a couple of brake lines.
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18 minutes ago, Mattman42 said:
Some polishing kits come with a liquid UV protector to use once polished that stops them fading again
CFA
Auto Glym's doesn't.
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This is not the easiest forum to search @Cheddar Bob. By the way, welcome to ownership of one of the best kept secrets out there.
I used the Autoglym kit on mine several months back and was pleased with the results too. Go on get stuck in @the baron easy and cheap job and only takes an hour or so.
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3 hours ago, the baron said:
Exactly, all about the tools 😉
Tools are turning into my second 'mid-life crisis' hobby, the first being buying the Boxster...
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7 minutes ago, the baron said:
I had to drill mine too, real PITA
One of those jobs that once you are expecting it, it is very straight forward and you know which tools to grab.
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9 minutes ago, Halfordwill said:
Mark If the screws not coming out of the disc put an old screwdriver in and smack it a few times with a big hammer. That usually does the trick!
Good luck couldn't move mine with anything last week. If no joy, drill through with 4.5mm then 5mm so as not to damage the threads and to only give small amount of swarf left in the threads and run through with an M6 tap if you have on or a longer M6 bolt to clear the threads. Replace with M6x12 or 16 countersunk of any head type and use assembly compound on the threads. I had spares from a previous brake disc change on a VW Golf. Arguably you only need one bolt as many manufacturers use, not two.
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Fitted new front ARB bushes. Noted that the ARB is quite corroded and is lifting the power coat finish. Might be tempted to get it off, sand blast and re-powder coat when I can get to suppliers who can do this.
Failed to loosen front top nuts on struts to allow spring (one is broken) and bump stop (both perished) replacement. Gave up and ordered impact wrench, been a bit cheeky and ordered one that uses the same Makita battery as some tools I'm supplied with for work. to keep the cost down. However took the time to wire brush off and spray up the damper units whilst I've got it all apart.
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44 minutes ago, Dan944 said:
is there any reason this would be a problem if the spoiler is in the up position and deactivated in that position , and only used for around town driving?
Aerodynamically it would create a blockage and a high pressure area under the upper spoiler. At low speed not an issue and would show the additional graphic nicely, but if left up in error it could create lift as well as a lot of drag with the air under the wing having nowhere to escape to other than a fairly narrow slot under the wing. Basically the two devises work in a contrary ways; the wing creates downforce (or reduces lift at least) minimising drag and conditioning the airflow, whereas the spoiler disrupts airflow where the body shape would generate lift but creating a fence for the air to trip over causing drag by increasing the size of the wake trailing the vehicle.
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Sealed wheels with Auto Glym Wheel Protector. Makes cleaning off brake dust a lot easier. Dressed the tyres. Took a wire brush to the rear shocks and applied black Hammerite to hopefully slow down the corrosion.
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Front a rear wheel arches all jet washed and plastics wiped over in Duck Oil to make them shiny, at least until I drive it next time. All wheels given through clean with wheel acid inside and out. Plenty of tread on the tyre so my 18" wheels are going to have to wait a bit longer until they get fresh tyres and bolted on for the first time....
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5 hours ago, jonogt6 said:
Lubricated all the pivot and points on the roof mechanism. Been meaning to do it for ages and it's now noticably quicker to erect and retract which one s a bonus.
Thanks for the heads up, just done mine too including the runners, plus bonnet and boot hinges.
Also, whilst I've had the front PU off I've taken off the grilles and trims and had the wheel arch liners out. All thoroughly cleaned them ready for refitting. I do seem to have worked out that the front bumper was resprayed in situ at one point judging by the dust of minor overspray in places like inside the rad ducts that have bee sprayed black with silver underneath.. I knew the PU had also been replaced when I bought it (replacement was originally dark green) but this must have been painted off the vehicle. I've given the front end a good hard look at and I'm happy that both have been cosmetic damage only. All joint seals are consistent and no colour differences on inner panels etc.
Whilst on this for a 2000 Boxter S rad grilles should the factory colour be silver, metallic grey or black? There evidence of possibly all three of these on my grilles...🤔
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1 hour ago, Truth said:
I spent five hours grafting with no tools at all, I woudn't say it was detailing at its finest but it works for me...... A good wax and polish and loads of TLC 🙂
Admiring your fine work sir!
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4 hours ago, Christopher2110 said:
Ahh. Then I am jealous.
I shall rephrase; how would you suggest going about it without a sand blast? Brake cleaner and then just rough up the surface?That's is what most others who have done this say they do. I'd suggest a good but fairly fine key and make sure any old flaky lacquer coat is chipped away first.
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Started by jacking up the front and putting it on axle stands to prep for the work on the brake system, and per other thread (Broken Front Spring) found a broken sprint front right, perished bump stops, horns have failed, track rod end ball joint gaiter split and possibly a rad on its way out....
Took off front PU to clean out rads and condensers. Only bit of brake work was checking all 4 bleed nipples weren't seized which as about the only bit of good news.
Painted the front wheel bolts and bonded back together the small ducts that fit to the wheel arch liners.
Made even easier by the fact the person before me only replaced 2 of the 5 screws holding the door card in place on the drivers side
What have YOU done to your 986 today ?
in 986
Posted
Full external polish with Autoglym SRP and then Extra Gloss to finish an then all the glass inside and out. Must have been bored as the wife's Golf cabrio got clay bar and then the same treatment as the Boxster.