Dubdubz

Gearbox is back in… was a bit tricky as no gearbox Jack so balanced on a standard trolley Jack, not ideal but we managed it. 

The stuff that came out was pretty dark. I found that 2.4 ltr was about 5mm lower than the fill hole.

I reused the bungs and added a tiny bit of liquid thread sealer not too much and then did them up to 25nm. 

no leaks to report so far 😊

as my box was out of the car I used an old stool that the centre pad popped out meaning I had plenty of room. Forgot to take pics but very effective. 

Will check levels after putting that in , less concerned that only 2 litres came out

14 minutes ago, iborguk said:

5 or 6 speed ? 

Soz yes that’s helpful … 5speed

Did search 😉 should be a quick one…

how much ?  Seems to say 2.8 litres on the internet?

drained old and got 2litres out 🤨🤨???

thanks

1 hour ago, bally4563 said:

Think you will understand now why to put it in dry

yeah if it was wet it would slip and slide - quite easy if clean and good light... did you want spare OLD  flywheel bolts?

New rear main seal installed - not sure why but I was a bit nervous about doing this - borrowed @bally4563 tool which made it super easy to be honest. Zipped it all down once and then slowly used old flywheel bolts to pull the tool down. Once nearly tight I removed and checked. the left side was not quite done but the right was. So carefully reattached and then pulled the left side down using nuts as spacers on the bolts... then checked throuroughly again all round and spot on 13mm...also looked good visually!
I also checked the case measurement and that looked good too!

then put on the new DMF

Little tip here work out the split pin location and mark on the Front so you can easily work out where it is its not light! seen here just above 3o'clock

then installed new bolts and did the 15nm, then 25nm the 120degrees - this was tough actually as there is not enough room to get a big breaker 
Easy to mark one of the points - then mark the flywheel 2 points around = 120 degrees and voilá


then it poured down....

 

I checked the seal and it’s the same so I’m all good on the guide Still trying to find my clutch tool. 

The one I bought is like the metal one, now the only thing I am now going to check is autodoc didn’t list it against my car so I wonder if the inner seal is different. The metal part I used for the number assuming that meant the print and seal would be the right one. 
 

as the IMS is not weeping at all stationary and I need to get the car roadworthy I am going to bodge it and smear sealant to stem the weeping, should it be that. I am not sure on keeping the car so I need to feel the love again. If I do then I might direct oil feed the IMS anyway. 
they do this crazy bore tool to get the old one without splitting the engine…

checking the guide tube now…

And I would say comparing new DMF to old - I would guess its probably got 15,20k easy driven miles left in it
Its not broken but it is worn on the surface and the movement is easier and slightly more rotation than the new one .... Thankfully it does otherwise I just spent ££ unnecessarily

 

14 hours ago, bally4563 said:

Should have said could have popped one in with RMS tool!!

yes I know now this to be the case....

I think I have one somewhere - just trying to locate it.

New DMF and clutch arrived today...

QQ though the SACHS clutch is same outside diameter but the friction surface is less ? left is new 😉

2 minutes ago, temporarychicken said:

+1 on using the autodoc mobile app.

Place the clutch and flywheel in your basket there and leave notifications enabled for the app.

 

After a few days you may get as much as 43 percent offered on your basket items. The sales change daily.

 

As has been said above, look for LUK flywheel and Sachs clutch as known good brands for this job.

Had the dmf in basket since Saturday and not budging it’s ok as bought elsewhere. AUTODOC is good just not super quick, as in you can’t get next day if you find something else. But prices are good for sure. 

Gearbox is out and I have now realised I didn’t get an alignment tool, so I’ll order that now. 
it’s not a difficult job but time consuming. 
parts in motion were where I bought from, they had a subscription and get 10% off which brought it down to £594

7 hours ago, philw696 said:

26 and 37 and can all be done from underneath.

and did you need to replace Tensioner o rings?

7 hours ago, philw696 said:

26 and 37 and can all be done from underneath.

and did you need to replace Tensioner o rings?

7 hours ago, Sword said:

* very important correction - removed the TWO timing chain tensioners on the gearbox side - put them back in the same place!

which ones of these ? Can you get to them from underneath ?

found a UK place thats doing Sach clutch and LUK DMF for a shade under £600 which I think is the best I can do easily...

1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

Use the app not website and wait for a 43 or 45% day...  Might shave a bit more off.

There is a 41% off on the App - but the DMF is not part of that offer sadly...

recently? they are all £500+ on there now?

I had a look and you can see the Cam ends easily on the left from the gearbox side actually

all cleaned up now 


guess the issue now is its not likely to statically leak....

49 minutes ago, philw696 said:

That's the IMS seals I did mine last year here in France.

Bought the locking kit and not a bad job to do.

Thanks @philw696 ok - looks horrendous with locking of stuff and prizing out of plugs etc...locking cams...

I read today - which is all I seem to have done today - that you can see if the cam deviation is ok and therefore only lock the left side cams...

Did you remove the inner seal - again I have read hot topics on the 'leave as is' versus the 'remove it will help keep oiling' compounded with the added posts about then needing a DOF IMS flange cover so it has cooled, filtered oil as no inner seal and high RPM means it doesnt get oiled and could die that way!
I'll clean it all up now in any case see if I can see better....

I'm not sure if mine is an RMS leak or IMS ??

what do the experts think?







and this is the back of the flywheel

I did think about starting a new thread but it seems wise to try and keep threads with relevant content...

https://i.imgur.com/KCv5hTk.mp4

this is my 70000 mile assumed original DMF and looks to be ok in the rotational movement

and this is a teeth view
https://i.imgur.com/QFVi7bO.mp4

no metalic noises or excessive play in the rock plane either - may 1-1.5 mm

13 minutes ago, SpeedyGee said:

I hear what you are saying @Dubdubz but conversely, those that are leasing are throwing away money every month. 

I do all the work on my own cars myself and on the odd occasion that I have to spend large amounts on parts for any of the cars I own, I do this happily knowing that I am still saving lots of money in the long run.

Last year I replaced all the front-end cooling piping on my 987, this year our Honda FRV needs its suspension refreshing all around but usually its only needed service parts. 

I do all my own mostly too - its just an observation that some items last forever and some die - I seem to see that we use the 'this car had failed parts that cost me tonnes of money and I want to share' as some badge of honour?
The fact that some boxsters have had to have a very expensive suspension refresh seems sad to me as a premium product should last a bit longer... its all makes not just our beloved. My wifes Freelander has had wheel bearings, hubs, calipers, alternator, steering pump, electronic bits its only 10 years old and coming upto 100k.... my 68 vw will need a steering box refresh but its done over 300000 miles and is 55...

Anyway I digress - will remove the flywheel this morning and test on the bench as this seems the best way...I was looking for prices £450 for a LUK seems to be the norm....

4 minutes ago, philw696 said:

False economy not to change the dual mass flywheel as if it fails it can destroy your bell housing.

Do it once do it right.

I've been on the spanners for 45 years and worked for several manufacturers from Ford to Maserati and learnt a lot in that time.

I've never tested one personally so I'll do a video - not really sure what a failing or 'worn' one would feel like... on the hunt for the best price for that then --- if you know where there are deals please post 🤑

This started as a hunt for a exhaust leak - which has turned into a gearbox removal as something is leaking .... which is now meaning a £1000 ish I wasnt expecting to spend 😞 

Off topic slightly but it seems that modern cars just explode with their costs and dont need to be that old or high mileage to start failing...I can see why folks lease as in theory this saves them from the unexpected £2000 here or £3000 there garage bills.....